INDEX

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A

almonds:

caramel nut crunch, 234

sour grape sauce with, 265

anchovy, garlic, and caper dip with raw vegetables, 28

appetizers, 39

bruschetta with eggplant, beans, and pancetta, 45

chicken liver crostini, 41

dead ricotta in the garden, 43

fried rice balls, 46

ricotta-filled dates wrapped in prosciutto, 44

tomato tart, 40

apple(s):

cake with grappa, 211

Fabio’s cake, 208

roasted, with ricotta, hazelnuts, and chocolate, 218

Tuscan fruit mustard, 269

arborio rice coating, 276

aromatic flavored salt, 276

artichoke soup, 61

arugula salad with sundried tomatoes and mushrooms, 203

B

baked onion gratin, 197

baked stuffed tomatoes, 201

baked ziti, 88

balsamic glaze, 268

balsamic vinaigrette, 272

basic recipes, 11

arborio rice coating, 276

aromatic flavored salt, 276

baby onion sauce, 267

balsamic glaze, 268

balsamic vinaigrette, 272

béchamel sauce, 268

brown butter sage sauce, 20

caper sauce with burnt lemon, 21

cherry tomato salad with orange, cucumber, and feta, 27

chicken stock, 260

chubby veal and beef stock, 263

classic pizza, 31

chunky basil pesto, 17

dried breadcrumbs, 275

Fabio’s mom’s crème fraîche, 271

Fabio’s tomato sauce with oil and garlic, 18

fish stock, 261

fresh egg pasta dough, 12

garlic, anchovy, and caper dip with raw vegetables, 28

gelato, 228

Grandma’s meat sauce, 23

Grandma’s polenta, 16

green sauce with six herbs and hard-boiled eggs, 266

homemade ricotta, 24

infused flavored oil, 274

Italian dressing, 273

lemon dressing, 271

mayonnaise with variations, 270

meringue, 224

naked ravioli with ricotta and spinach, 29

olive, zucchini, and tomato bread topping, 26

potato-ricotta gnocchi, 14

risotto, 13

roasted lemons, 25

semolina gnocchi, 15

shellfish broth, 262

sour grape sauce with almonds, 265

sundried tomatoes, 24

Tuscan fruit mustard, 269

vegetable stock, 264

basil:

dead ricotta in the garden, 43

infused flavored oil, 274

pesto, chunky, 17

pesto gnocchi, 95

bean(s):

bruschetta with eggplant, pancetta and, 45

cannellini, and tomato soup, 55

Grandma’s cooked water, 56

and sausage stewed in tomato, 116

soup, my aunt from Siena’s, 54

twice-boiled bread and vegetable soup, 67

whatever is available vegetable soup, 58

béchamel sauce, 268

ricotta and spinach tube pasta with, 78

beef:

boiled meat with green sauce, 246

Fabio’s mom’s meatballs, 132

gnocchi with meat sauce and ricotta salata, 99

Grandma’s meat loaf, 131

Grandma’s meat sauce, 23

Italian stuffed, 122

Italian wedding soup, 64

and veal stock, chubby, 263

boiled meat with green sauce, 246

bored lamb in chianti, 118

braised goat with fennel and red onion, 127

braised lamb shanks with red wine sauce, 126

braised octopus, 155

braised veal shanks with my grandma’s gremolata, 135

bread:

sour grape sauce with almonds, 265

tomato soup, my mother’s, 68

and vegetable soup, twice-boiled, 67

breadcrumbs, dried, 275

breads, homemade:

chickpea, 277

Italian flatbread, 278

olive, 280

for sick people, 279

Tuscan, 283

broken potatoes with burnt lemon and Parmesan, 191

brown butter sage sauce, 20

bruschetta with eggplant, beans, and pancetta, 45

butter, 5

butternut squash:

-filled roasted pork loin, 125

ravioli with brown butter sage sauce, 92

C

cake:

apple, with grappa, 211

Fabio’s, 208

calamari:

seafood risotto, 105

spinach stewed, 159

cannellini bean and tomato soup, 55

caper(s):

chicken piccata, 178

garlic, and anchovy dip with raw vegetables, 28

sauce with burnt lemon, 21

tuna with tomatoes and, 147

caramelization, 4

caramel nut crunch, 234

cauliflower stewed with tomato, 196

cheese:

baked onion gratin, 197

baked stuffed tomatoes, 201

baked ziti, 88

broken potatoes with burnt lemon and Parmesan, 191

butternut squash ravioli with brown butter sage sauce, 92

cherry tomato salad with orange, cucumber, and feta, 27

chicken piccata, 178

classic pizza, 31

dead ricotta in the garden, 43

drunken spaghetti, 80

eggplant Parmesan, 248

Fabio’s mom’s meatballs, 132

Fabio’s mom’s tiramisu, 212

fluffy chestnut milk pancakes, 217

four, and sausage penne, 83

four, eggs, 250

fried rice balls, 46

gnocchi with meat sauce and ricotta salata, 99

Grandma’s meat loaf, 131

homemade ricotta, 24

leeks tucked in bed with prosciutto, 199

naked ravioli with ricotta and spinach, 29

Parmesan, 5

poached pears with ricotta and balsamic vinegar, 220

potato-ricotta gnocchi, 14

ricotta and spinach tube pasta with béchamel sauce, 78

ricotta chocolate chip fritters, 215

ricotta-filled dates wrapped in prosciutto, 44

ricotta gnocchi with squash blossoms and clams, 100

roasted apples with ricotta, hazelnuts, and chocolate, 218

stuffed zucchini, 254

cherry tomato salad with orange, cucumber, and feta, 27

chestnut milk pancakes, fluffy, 217

chicken, 167

boiled meat with green sauce, 246

drunken, 181

fried rosemary, 170

Grandma’s roasted, 177

hen with sage-garlic sauce, 169

hunter style, 174

liver crostini, 41

with marsala sauce, 173

pasta handkerchiefs with, 87

piccata, 178

stock, 260

wings, sweet and sour, 168

chickpea bread, 277

chocolate:

chip ricotta fritters, 215

gelato, 230

roasted apples with ricotta, hazelnuts and, 218

chubby veal and beef stock, 263

chunky basil pesto, 17

cioppino, seafood, 156

clams:

drowned, 60

ricotta gnocchi with squash blossoms and, 100

seafood cioppino, 156

seafood risotto, 105

classic pizza, 31

cod, stewed, in tomato sauce, 247

cooked cream with red wine syrup, 223

cookies, ugly but good, 227

crazy water, 63

cream, cooked, with red wine syrup, 223

crème fraîche, Fabio’s mom’s, 271

crostini, chicken liver, 41

D

dates, ricotta-filled, wrapped in prosciutto, 44

dead ricotta in the garden, 43

desserts, 207

apple cake with grappa, 211

basic gelato (don’t call it ice cream), 228

basic meringue, 224

caramel nut crunch, 234

chocolate gelato, 230

cooked cream with red wine syrup, 223

Fabio’s cake, 208

Fabio’s mom’s tiramisu, 212

fluffy chestnut milk pancakes, 217

grape tart, 216

lemon sorbet, 231

peach and mint gelato, 230

perfect holeless doughnuts, 233

poached pears with ricotta and balsamic vinegar, 220

ricotta chocolate chip fritters, 215

roasted apples with ricotta, hazelnuts, and chocolate, 218

strawberries with red wine, 219

ugly but good cookies, 227

dip, garlic, anchovy, and caper, with raw vegetables, 28

dirty cabbage with pork, 190

doughnuts, perfect holeless, 233

dressings, see salad dressings

dried breadcrumbs, 275

drowned clams, 60

drunk cured salmon, 143

drunken chicken, 181

drunken spaghetti, 80

duck prosciutto, whiskey, 242

E

eggplant:

bruschetta with beans, pancetta and, 45

caponata, 193

Parmesan, 248

roasted old ladies (roasted vegetables), 194

eggs, 5

four-cheese, 250

hard-boiled, green sauce with six herbs and, 266

Italian omelette, 251

pissed off, 252

equipment, 5–6

F

Fabio’s cake, 208

Fabio’s mom’s crème fraîche, 271

Fabio’s mom’s meatballs, 132

Fabio’s mom’s tiramisu, 212

Fabio’s tomato sauce with oil and garlic, 18

fennel:

braised goat with red onion and, 127

pepper crust, whole fish with, 152

feta, cherry tomato salad with orange, cucumber and, 27

fish, see seafood

fluffy chestnut milk pancakes, 217

four-cheese and sausage penne, 83

four-cheese eggs, 250

fresh egg pasta dough, 12

fried rice balls, 46

fried rosemary chicken, 170

fried seafood with herbs and burnt lemon, 142

fried squash blossoms, 190

fried veal cutlets, 128

fritters, ricotta chocolate chip, 215

G

garlic:

anchovy, and caper dip with raw vegetables, 28

bread, green soup with, 57

Fabio’s tomato sauce with oil and, 18

sage sauce, hen with, 169

spaghetti with olive oil and, 79

gelato:

basic, 228

chocolate, 230

peach and mint, 230

gnocchi:

with meat sauce and ricotta salata, 99

pesto, 95

potato-ricotta, 14

ricotta, with squash blossoms and clams, 100

with sausage and leeks, 96

semolina, 15

goat, braised, with fennel and red onion, 127

Grandma’s canned tuna, 148

Grandma’s cooked water, 56

Grandma’s meat loaf, 131

Grandma’s meat sauce, 23

Grandma’s polenta, 16

grape(s):

sauce with almonds, sour, 265

tart, 216

Tuscan fruit mustard, 269

green sauce with six herbs and hard-boiled eggs, 266

green soup with garlic bread, 57

gremolata, my grandma’s, braised veal shanks with, 135

H

hazelnuts:

caramel nut crunch, 234

roasted apples with ricotta, chocolate and, 218

ugly but good cookies, 227

hen with sage-garlic sauce, 169

homemade ricotta, 24

I

infused flavored oil, 274

Italian flatbread, 278

Italian omelette, 251

Italian stuffed beef, 122

Italian wedding soup, 64

L

lamb:

bored, in chianti, 118

ragu, Tuscan pici with, 84–86

shanks, braised, with red wine sauce, 126

leeks:

gnocchi with sausage and, 96

tucked in bed with prosciutto, 199

lemon(s):

burnt, broken potatoes with Parmesan and, 191

burnt, caper sauce with, 21

burnt, fried seafood with herbs and, 142

dressing, 271

roasted, 25

sorbet, 231

veal, pounded, 243

wine sauce, roasted mussels with, 154

lettuce and tuna salad, 203

M

marsala sauce, chicken with, 173

mayonnaise with variations, 270

meat, 115

boiled, with green sauce, 246

bored lamb in chianti, 118

braised goat with fennel and red onion, 127

braised lamb shanks with red wine sauce, 126

braised veal shanks with my grandma’s gremolata, 135

butternut squash-filled roasted pork loin, 125

Fabio’s mom’s meatballs, 132

four-cheese and sausage penne, 83

fried veal cutlets, 128

gnocchi with sausage and leeks, 96

Grandma’s meat loaf, 131

Grandma’s meat sauce, 23

Italian stuffed beef, 122

Italian wedding soup, 64

my grandma’s overcooked veal shanks, 121

nighttime pork (12-hour, slow braised pork butt), 117

pappardelle with meatball pearls, 77

pounded lemon veal, 243

sauce, gnocchi with ricotta salata and, 99

sausage and beans stewed in tomato, 116

with seven flavors, 249

tripe in tomato, 245

Tuscan pici with lamb ragu, 84–86

veal with tuna sauce, 244

see also prosciutto; sausage

meringue, basic, 224

mint and peach gelato, 230

mushroom(s):

arugula salad with sundried tomatoes and, 203

chicken hunter style, 174

chicken with marsala sauce, 173

fried fresh, 188

risotto, 102

mussels:

roasted, with lemon-wine sauce, 154

seafood cioppino, 156

seafood risotto, 105

mustard, Tuscan fruit, 269

my aunt from Siena’s bean soup, 54

my grandma’s overcooked veal shanks, 121

my mother’s tomato-bread soup, 68

N

naked ravioli with ricotta and spinach, 29

with fresh tomato sauce, 89

nighttime pork (12-hour, slow braised pork butt), 117

not-so-black squid ink risotto, 108

O

octopus, 141

braised, 155

olive, zucchini, and tomato bread topping, 26

olive(s):

bread, 280

chicken hunter style, 174

eggplant caponata, 193

stewed cod in tomato sauce, 247

olive oil, 5

infused flavored, 274

omelette, Italian, 251

onion(s):

baby, sauce, 267

drunken chicken, 181

gratin, baked, 197

red, braised goat with fennel and, 127

orange, cherry tomato salad with cucumber, feta and, 27

P

pancakes, fluffy chestnut milk, 217

pancetta:

bruschetta with eggplant, beans and, 45

risotto with shrimp and, 109

pantry, 6–7

pappardelle with meatball pearls, 77

Parmesan, 5

baked stuffed tomatoes, 201

broken potatoes with burnt lemon and, 191

chicken piccata, 178

eggplant, 248

stuffed zucchini, 254

parsley, 5

pasta, 75

baked ziti, 88

butternut squash ravioli with brown butter sage sauce, 92

cooking, 3–4

drunken spaghetti, 80

four-cheese and sausage penne, 83

fresh egg dough, 12

gnocchi with meat sauce and ricotta salata, 99

gnocchi with sausage and leeks, 96

handkerchiefs with chicken, 87

pappardelle with meatball pearls, 77

pesto gnocchi, 95

potato ravioli, 91

ricotta and spinach tube, with béchamel sauce, 78

ricotta gnocchi with squash blossoms and clams, 100

spaghetti with garlic and olive oil, 79

Tuscan pici with lamb ragu, 84–86

peach and mint gelato, 230

pear(s):

poached, with ricotta and balsamic vinegar, 220

red wine poached, salad, 202

Tuscan fruit mustard, 269

penne, four-cheese and sausage, 83

pepper, black, 5

fennel crust, whole fish with, 152

pepper stew, 255

perfect holeless doughnuts, 233

pesto:

chunky basil, 17

gnocchi, 95

pici, Tuscan, with lamb ragu, 84–86

pissed off eggs, 252

pizza, classic, 31

poached pears with ricotta and balsamic vinegar, 220

polenta, Grandma’s, 16

pork:

dirty cabbage with, 190

loin, butternut squash-filled roasted, 125

meat with seven flavors, 249

nighttime (12-hour, slow braised pork butt), 117

pots and pans, 5

potato(es):

boiled meat with green sauce, 246

broken, with burnt lemon and Parmesan, 191

dirty cabbage with pork, 190

green soup with garlic bread, 57

perfect holeless doughnuts, 233

ravioli, 91

ricotta gnocchi, 14

whatever is available vegetable soup, 58

poultry:

whiskey duck prosciutto, 242

see also chicken

pounded lemon veal, 243

prosciutto:

Italian omelette, 251

Italian stuffed beef, 122

leeks tucked in bed with, 199

ricotta-filled dates wrapped in, 44

whiskey duck, 242

pumpkin, risotto with walnuts and, 106

R

ravioli:

butternut squash, with brown butter sage sauce, 92

naked, with fresh tomato sauce, 89

naked, with ricotta and spinach, 29

potato, 91

red wine poached pear salad, 202

rice:

arborio, coating, 276

balls, fried, 46

see also risotto

ricotta:

baked stuffed tomatoes, 201

butternut squash ravioli with brown butter sage sauce, 92

chocolate chip fritters, 215

dead, in the garden, 43

-filled dates wrapped in prosciutto, 44

fluffy chestnut milk pancakes, 217

gnocchi with squash blossoms and clams, 100

homemade, 24

naked ravioli with spinach and, 29

poached pears with balsamic vinegar and, 220

potato gnocchi, 14

roasted apples with hazelnuts, chocolate and, 218

and spinach tube pasta with béchamel sauce, 78

stuffed zucchini, 254

ricotta salata, gnocchi with meat sauce and, 99

risotto, 53

basic, 13

mushroom, 102

not-so-black squid ink, 108

with pumpkin and walnuts, 106

saffron, 103

seafood, 105

with shrimp and pancetta, 109

roasted apples with ricotta, hazelnuts, and chocolate, 218

roasted lemons, 25

roasted mussels with lemon-wine sauce, 154

roasted old ladies (roasted vegetables), 194

rosemary chicken, fried, 170

S

saffron risotto, 103

sage:

brown butter sauce, 20

brown butter sauce, butternut squash ravioli with, 92

garlic sauce, hen with, 169

salad dressings:

balsamic vinaigrette, 272

Italian dressing, 273

lemon, 271

salads, 187

arugula, with sundried tomatoes and mushrooms, 203

cherry tomato, with orange, cucumber, and feta, 27

red wine poached pear, 202

tuna and lettuce, 203

salmon, drunk cured, 143

salt, 3–4, 5

aromatic flavored, 276

sauces:

baby onion, 267

balsamic glaze, 268

béchamel, 268

brown butter sage, 20

caper, with burnt lemon, 21

Fabio’s mom’s crème fraîche, 271

Fabio’s tomato, with oil and garlic, 18

green, with six herbs and hard-boiled eggs, 266

Grandma’s meat, 23

mayonnaise with variations, 270

sour grape, with almonds, 265

see also salad dressings

sausage:

baked stuffed tomatoes, 201

and beans stewed in tomato, 116

boiled meat with green sauce, 246

and four-cheese penne, 83

gnocchi with leeks and, 96

pappardelle with meatball pearls, 77

stuffed zucchini, 254

seafood, 141

braised octopus, 155

cioppino, 156

crazy water, 63

drowned clams, 60

drunk cured salmon, 143

fish balls in tomato wine sauce, 153

fish stock, 261

fried, with herbs and burnt lemon, 142

Grandma’s canned tuna, 148

not-so-black squid ink risotto, 108

ricotta gnocchi with squash blossoms and clams, 100

risotto, 105

risotto with shrimp and pancetta, 109

roasted mussels with lemon-wine sauce, 154

shellfish broth, 262

spinach stewed calamari, 159

stewed cod in tomato sauce, 247

stewed swordfish, 144

tuna and lettuce salad, 203

tuna with tomatoes and capers, 147

veal with tuna sauce, 244

where is the fish? (whole fish baked in salt), 151

whole fish with fennel-pepper crust, 152

semolina gnocchi, 15

shrimp:

fried seafood with herbs and burnt lemon, 142

risotto with shrimp and pancetta, 109

seafood cioppino, 156

sorbet, lemon, 231

soups, 53

artichoke, 61

cannellini bean and tomato, 55

crazy water, 63

drowned clams, 60

Grandma’s cooked water, 56

green, with garlic bread, 57

Italian wedding, 64

my aunt from Siena’s bean, 54

my mother’s tomato-bread, 68

twice-boiled bread and vegetable, 67

whatever is available vegetable, 58

sour grape sauce with almonds, 265

spaghetti:

drunken, 80

with garlic and olive oil, 79

spinach:

Grandma’s cooked water, 56

green soup with garlic bread, 57

Italian wedding soup, 64

naked ravioli with ricotta and, 29

and ricotta tube pasta with béchamel sauce, 78

stewed calamari, 159

squash:

butternut, -filled roasted pork loin, 125

butternut, ravioli with brown butter sage sauce, 92

risotto with pumpkin and walnuts, 106

see also zucchini

squash blossoms:

fried, 190

ricotta gnocchi with clams and, 100

squid:

fried seafood with herbs and burnt lemon, 142

not-so-black squid ink risotto, 108

seafood cioppino, 156

stew, pepper, 255

stewed cod in tomato sauce, 247

stewed swordfish, 144

stock, 259

chicken, 260

fish, 261

shellfish broth, 262

vegetable, 264

strawberries with red wine, 219

stuffed zucchini, 254

sundried tomatoes, 24

sweet and sour chicken wings, 168

swordfish, stewed, 144

T

tart:

grape, 216

tomato, 40

tiramisu, Fabio’s mom’s, 212

tomato(es):

baked stuffed, 201

braised octopus, 155

bread soup, my mother’s, 68

and cannellini bean soup, 55

cauliflower stewed with, 196

cherry, salad with orange, cucumber, and feta, 27

classic pizza, 31

crazy water, 63

dead ricotta in the garden, 43

eggplant caponata, 193

eggplant Parmesan, 248

Fabio’s mom’s meatballs, 132

fried rice balls, 46

Grandma’s meat loaf, 131

Grandma’s meat sauce, 23

Italian stuffed beef, 122

my grandma’s overcooked veal shanks, 121

olive, and zucchini bread topping, 26

pappardelle with meatball pearls, 77

pissed off eggs, 252

ricotta and spinach tube pasta with béchamel sauce, 78

sauce, fresh, naked ravioli with, 89

sauce, stewed cod in, 247

sauce with oil and garlic, Fabio’s, 18

sausage and beans stewed in, 116

seafood cioppino, 156

seafood risotto, 105

shellfish broth, 262

spinach stewed calamari, 159

stewed swordfish, 144

sundried, 24

sundried, arugula salad with mushrooms and, 203

tart, 40

tripe in, 245

tuna with capers and, 147

Tuscan pici with lamb ragu, 84–86

wine sauce, fish balls in, 153

tripe in tomato, 245

tuna:

Grandma’s canned, 148

and lettuce salad, 203

sauce, veal with, 244

with tomatoes and capers, 147

Tuscan bread, 283

Tuscan fruit mustard, 269

Tuscan pici with lamb ragu, 84–86

twice-boiled bread and vegetable

soup, 67

U

ugly but good cookies, 227

V

veal:

and beef stock, chubby, 263

boiled meat with green sauce, 246

cutlets, fried, 128

pounded lemon, 243

shanks, braised, with my grandma’s gremolata, 135

shanks, my grandma’s overcooked, 121

with tuna sauce, 244

vegetable(s), 187

baked onion gratin, 197

baked stuffed tomatoes, 201

and bread soup, twice-boiled, 67

broken potatoes with burnt lemon and Parmesan, 191

cauliflower stewed with tomato, 196

dirty cabbage with pork, 190

eggplant caponata, 193

fried fresh mushrooms, 188

fried squash blossoms, 190

leeks tucked in bed with prosciutto, 199

raw, garlic, anchovy, and caper dip with, 28

roasted (roasted old ladies), 194

soup, whatever is available, 58

stock, 264

W

walnuts:

caramel nut crunch, 234

risotto with pumpkin and, 106

sour grape sauce with almonds, 265

whatever is available vegetable soup, 58

where is the fish? (whole fish baked in salt), 151

whiskey duck prosciutto, 242

whole fish with fennel-pepper crust, 152

Z

ziti, baked, 88

zucchini:

olive, and tomato bread topping, 26

roasted old ladies (roasted vegetables), 194

stuffed, 254

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