Many people think of dessert as a last impression—a chance to wow their guests one last time. But we’re Italian! We don’t need to do that, since we impress people with every part of the meal. We invented wowing!
The desserts here are very traditional, but the way I make tiramisu is not the way someone from Milan does it. These desserts are done the way I do them. You can find another Italian who will say, “No, the fritters need to have walnuts!” To that I say, “Well, sure, add what you like. But not in my house!”
In my family, after we had eaten our entrée we would lick the plate or do scarpetta by getting a little piece of bread and wiping the surface of the plate practically dishwasher-clean with the mushy white part of the bread. Then we would turn the plate upside down and be ready for dessert.
Torta di Fabio
SERVES 8–12
This is really a 101 cake. If you can make this, you can call yourself a pastry chef—you just made a cake! Also, I happen to know that the Pope likes it (see the Introduction for that story)! It has the same texture as rice pudding but it tastes like apple, and it’s perfect to have your kids make at home with you.
2 eggs plus 1 egg yolk
¾ cup sugar
1 cup flour
½ cup olive oil
2 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. vanilla extract
Zest of 1 orange
3 cups very ripe apples, peeled, cored, and crushed
Butter and flour for the pan
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Beat the eggs and sugar until foamy in a stand mixer with a paddle attachment. Add all the remaining ingredients except the butter and flour and mix until everything is incorporated.
Grease and flour a 9-inch round springform baking pan. Pour the batter in and bake for 1 hour. For a crunchier crust I sometimes sprinkle a bit of brown sugar on top before baking.
Eat! This cake is also perfect dried out after a week, with a glass of cold milk.