Preparing your own salt beef requires several days’ soaking and a few hours’ cooking, but it’s incredibly easy, involves little hands-on work and transforms a cheap, unglamorous cut of meat into something totally delicious. And you’ll have enough beef left over for sandwiches, or the hash cakes over the page.
Serves 4 (with beef left over)
1.5–2kg piece of beef brisket, on or off the bone
2 bay leaves
A large sprig of thyme
A few parsley stalks
1 carrot, chopped
1 onion, chopped
1 celery stalk, chopped
1 leek, chopped
½ garlic bulb (sliced across)
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the brine
3 litres water
300g demerara or light brown sugar
900g coarse sea salt
½ teaspoon black peppercorns
½ teaspoon juniper berries
3 cloves
2 bay leaves
A sprig of thyme
For the mash
500g large potatoes, such as Maris Piper or King Edward
100ml whole milk
35g unsalted butter
For the cabbage
1 Savoy cabbage
A knob of butter
For the brine, put all the ingredients into a large saucepan and stir over a low heat until the sugar and salt have dissolved. Bring to the boil and boil for 1–2 minutes, then take off the heat. Leave to cool, then refrigerate. Put the beef in a non-metallic container, such as a large plastic tub or clay crock, and pour on the cold brine to cover. To keep the meat submerged it may be necessary to put a plate and a heavy weight on top. Leave in a cool place or the fridge for 4–5 days. Lift out the meat, rinse and pat dry.
Wrapped in muslin, it will now keep for a few days in the fridge.
To cook the beef, put it in a large saucepan with all the aromatics and cover with cold water, by at least 2cm. Bring to a low simmer and cook for about 3 hours, or until the meat is very tender and can be torn into shreds with a fork. Remove it from the liquor and leave to rest in a warm place for 20 minutes.
Half an hour before the cooking time is up, peel the potatoes and cut into even-sized pieces, no smaller than a golf ball. Place in a saucepan, cover with water, add salt and bring to the boil. Simmer for 15–20 minutes or until tender. Drain, return to the pan and let the potatoes steam-dry for a few minutes. Heat the milk and butter together. Begin mashing the potatoes in their pan, then gradually add the hot milk and butter. Continue to mash until smooth and light. (Alternatively, put the potatoes through a ricer into the pan of milk and butter.) Season with salt and set aside to keep warm.
Remove the coarse stalks from the cabbage, then cut into thick ribbons. Either cook in a pan of boiling salted water or steam for 3–4 minutes until just tender, but retaining a bite. Toss with the butter and some salt and pepper.
Slice the warm salt beef thickly and serve on warm plates with the mash and buttered cabbage. Finish with a spoonful of hot horseradish sauce or English mustard if you like.