Chapter Three

Salads

Condiment Contrast

cucumber, red onion, and dill salad

serves 4

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Try the cool crunchy bite of this colorful cucumber salad with Brined and Fried Chicken (page 170) for a tasty complement of flavors and textures.

¼ cup white wine vinegar

2 teaspoons sugar

¼ teaspoon salt

2 English cucumbers, peeled, halved lengthwise, and sliced into half-moons

½ red onion, thinly sliced

2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill

  1. Whisk together the vinegar, sugar, and salt in a large bowl. Add the cucumbers, red onions, and dill, and toss to combine. Cover and chill for 15 minutes (no more, or it will get watery) and serve.
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Seeding Cucumbers Regular cucumbers and even some so-called seedless ones can have a watery, fibrous inside. To remove the seeds, slice the cuke lengthwise in half. Using the tip of a teaspoon, channel out the seeds by scraping from top to bottom.

Cool Sweet

crunchy fennel orange salad

serves 4 to 6

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I like to serve this refreshing salad, with its salty crunch of celery, fennel, and radishes along with orange’s gentle sweet acidity, to complement main dishes of Spanish, Greek, or Italian origin. The green, red, and orange colors are a vibrant sight on the plate. This salad can be made several hours ahead of serving—cover and store in the refrigerator until mealtime.

1 orange, peeled and suprêmed (see Note), with about ¼ cup juice

¼ cup sherry vinegar

½ cup extra virgin olive oil

¾ teaspoon coarse salt

Pinch of sugar

Pinch of cayenne pepper

1 fennel bulb, trimmed and thinly sliced crosswise

4 celery stalks, peeled and thinly sliced on the bias

1 bunch radishes (about 5), thinly sliced

  1. Whisk together the orange juice, vinegar, olive oil, salt, sugar, and cayenne in a salad bowl. Toss in the fennel, celery, radishes, and orange segments to combine. Serve, or cover and store in the fridge until ready to serve.
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To suprême citrus, cut off the very top and bottom of the fruit. Working over a bowl to catch the juice, peel off the skin and pith. Using a sharp knife, carefully cut between the flesh and membrane of each section on both sides to remove clean, naked pieces of citrus. When complete, squeeze the membranes to release any remaining juice.

Smoky Green Crunch

grilled simple caesar salad

serves 2 to 4

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“Grilled salad” may seem like an oxymoron, but the charred flavor that a couple of minutes of grilling on a hot grill or grill pan imparts to the lettuce is anything but. I simplify the salad by drizzling the classic Caesar dressing ingredients separately over the greens at the end. Those who are squeamish about anchovies can avoid them.

2 heads romaine lettuce, trimmed and halved lengthwise

Extra virgin olive oil

Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

2 ounces shaved Parmesan (see Note)

2 anchovy fillets, halved (optional)

  1. Preheat a grill or heat a cast-iron grill pan. Brush the cut sides of the romaine with olive oil. Sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Grill, cut side down, until charred and blackened in a few places, about 2 minutes.
  2. Transfer the lettuce to a platter. Drizzle with olive oil and the lemon juice, and scatter shaved Parmesan cheese over the top. Garnish with the anchovies, if desired.

Romaine Lettuce

Romaine is my go-to for heartiness and crunch in everyday salads. More than just a great salad green, it’s firm enough to hold up to grilling and other types of cooking too.

nutshell recipe: romaine with leeks and dill

Shred a couple of heads of romaine and sauté it in olive oil with 1 whole leek, washed and thinly sliced, and a few tablespoons dill over high heat for about 12 minutes. It’s a great cooked side dish, much like escarole.

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To shave cheese, use a potato peeler, gliding it over a chunk of Parmesan.

Not-Bottled Bottled Salad Dressing

italian vinaigrette

makes 2 cups

This homemade version is a fresh take on the bottled Italian dressing—and it will get your kids to eat their raw vegetables. The egg yolk adds creamy texture. It can be stored in the refrigerator in a jar with a tight-fitting lid for up to a week.

1 garlic clove, smashed and peeled

¼ cup white wine vinegar

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 large egg yolk

¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese

½ teaspoon dried Italian seasoning

½ teaspoon coarse salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon sugar

1¼ cups safflower oil or mild extra virgin olive oil

¼ cup finely chopped red bell pepper

¼ cup finely chopped Vidalia or other onion

  1. Combine the garlic, vinegar, lemon juice, egg yolk, Parmesan, Italian seasoning, salt, pepper, and sugar in a blender and blend until smooth. With the motor running on the lowest speed, slowly add the oil in a thin stream. Transfer the vinaigrette to a serving bowl and stir in the red peppers and onions.
  2. Use to dress your favorite green salad or serve with crudités.

Variation

crudités with italian vinaigrette

Select a variety of vegetables, such as red peppers, carrots, celery, cucumbers, fennel, and cherry tomatoes. Cut larger vegetables into bite-size pieces and arrange on a platter with the vinaigrette.

Salad Dressing

I just don’t like bottled salad dressings. The flavor tastes fake, there’s a weird aftertaste, and they’re calorie-laden and expensive. Some folks go to the trouble of making a beautiful meal and setting a nice table, but then plop down those ugly store-bought bottles. Dressing a salad can be as simple as drizzling a little olive oil and then sprinkling salt and pepper over some cleaned and dried greens or as involved as blending a few good-quality ingredients (such as olive oil, mustard, vinegar, salt, and pepper) together. Ounce for ounce, homemade dressing is less costly and when made ahead and stored in the refrigerator, as convenient as store-bought. What is so hard about that?

Steakhouse Starter Redux

iceberg and endive wedges with blue cheese vinaigrette

serves 2

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This is a wonderful “grown-up” version of your classic, run-of-the-mill, bottled-blue-cheese-dressing iceberg wedge salad.

1 head iceberg lettuce, cut into wedges

3 Belgian endives, cut lengthwise into quarters, leaving the core end intact

2 ounces creamy blue cheese

¼ cup red wine vinegar

⅓ cup extra virgin olive oil

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

  1. Arrange the iceberg wedges and endive on a platter.
  2. Crumble the blue cheese into a jar. Using a fork, smash up the cheese a little bit. Add the vinegar, olive oil, and pepper, put the lid on the jar, and shake the dressing until combined and creamy.
  3. Pour a few tablespoons of the dressing over the salad and serve. Store the extra dressing in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

iceberg lettuce

Don’t be hating on iceberg, even if it’s the fashionable thing to do. Yes, darker leafy greens have more nutritional value and fiber for sure, but don’t discount the pleasure and mouthfeel of biting into a cool, crunchy vegetable (can I call it a vegetable?) swathed in a creamy sauce.

Happy Accident

cobb salad

serves 6 to 8

I’ve never met a salad lover who doesn’t love a good Cobb—especially my female friends who live on salads. It’s funny how this one salad can go high or low, depending on whether you’re in a Denny’s or an upscale American bistro and using food-service ingredients or “farm-sourced” ones. But this recipe is ideal for personalizing when making it at home. A meal in itself, it features a different ingredient for everyone, including our favorite, bacon—a guy magnet if there ever was one.

1 head romaine lettuce, trimmed and chopped

1 head butter lettuce, cored and chopped

Two 8-ounce chicken breasts, poached (see Note) or grilled, chopped

6 slices bacon, cooked until crisp and chopped

2 medium tomatoes, chopped

4 hard-boiled eggs, quartered

1 avocado, halved, pitted, peeled, and chopped

4 ounces Roquefort cheese, crumbled

¼ cup chopped fresh chives

Vinaigrette

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

¼ cup red wine vinegar

2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce

1 garlic clove

½ teaspoon coarse salt

½ cup extra virgin olive oil

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

  1. Spread the lettuce on a large rectangular platter. Working from one side of the platter to the other, arrange the remaining salad ingredients on top of the lettuce in rows, making stripes. Chill in the refrigerator for up to 2 hours until ready to serve.
  2. For the vinaigrette, whisk together the mustard, vinegar, and Worcestershire sauce in a medium bowl. Mince the garlic with the salt and mash with the side of the knife until it becomes a paste. Add to the bowl, whisking constantly. Slowly pour in the olive oil in a thin stream, whisking until thick and creamy. Whisk in the pepper.
  3. Pour the dressing over the salad and serve.
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Pedigree This salad hails from an old-time Los Angeles restaurant, The Brown Derby. Supposedly one night in the 1930s, its owner, Mr. Cobb, and a friend, hankering after a late-night snack, tinkered around in the kitchen with some leftovers. When the friend returned the next day, he requested the same dish—and the Cobb salad was born.

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To poach chicken for salads, soups, and tacos, put 2 chicken breasts in a small saucepan, cover with chicken broth or water by 2 inches, and add one or more aromatics such as onion, garlic, carrot, celery, black peppercorns, and bay leaf. Cover and bring to a boil, then reduce heat to a simmer, and cook until just cooked through, 12 to 15 minutes (an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the breast should register 160°F). Remove the chicken from the poaching liquid (if you used chicken broth, strain it and reserve for another use) and let rest until cool. Slice or shred the chicken to use immediately, or store whole in the refrigerator in a resealable plastic bag for up to 2 days.

How to make hard-boiled Eggs

Don’t take hard-boiled eggs for granted: they can be divine little morsels of textural, buttery heaven or sulphurized, smelly turnoffs. Too many people just throw the eggs into boiling water and cook until rubberized. Here is my favorite method, after much trial and error.

nutshell recipe: hard-boiled eggs

Put the (large) eggs in a pot and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil; don’t walk away and let them boil away unnoticed. Remove the pan from the heat, cover, and let sit for 10 minutes. Drain and submerge in cold water to cool before peeling. The yolks will be just barely cooked and the whites fully cooked, tender, and without bounce.

Feast for the Eyes

beet, carrot, and watercress salad

serves 4 to 6

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I’m crazy about this salad, created by my son Miles. Having worked in a restaurant kitchen, he effort-lessly applies professional cooking techniques to any dish he makes. Here the beets and carrots are cooked separately and slightly differently, to accentuate their flavors. The sweetness of the carrots is enhanced by cooking them with sugar; vinegar tempers the beets with its acidic tang. The radishes bring a crunchy pungency. Chilling the cooked vegetables before assembling enhances the differ-ences. The peppery watercress complements everything. Finished with a drizzle of olive oil and a sprinkling of salt and pepper, the salad has a wonderfully balanced mix of sweet, salty, and acidic.

4 medium beets

½ cup sherry vinegar

Coarse salt

1 tablespoon safflower oil

4 small carrots, peeled and cut ¼ inch thick on the bias

2 tablespoons sugar

1 bunch watercress, washed and dried, thick stems removed

3 radishes, thinly sliced

Freshly ground black pepper

Extra virgin olive oil

  1. Put the beets in a medium saucepan with the vinegar, a large pinch of salt, and water to cover. Cover the pan with aluminum foil and poke 4 holes in the foil. Cook until the beets are tender (a knife should easily pierce one), about 45 minutes. Allow the beets to cool, then drain and cut each into 8 wedges. Chill in the refrigerator.
  2. Meanwhile, heat a medium sauté pan over medium-high heat, then add the vegetable oil and carrots, and cook until golden brown on the first side. Add the sugar, stir, and cook until the carrots are tender and crispy, 5 to 7 minutes. Allow the carrots to cool, then chill in the refrigerator.
  3. Put the watercress in a salad bowl. Add the radishes, beets, and carrots and season with salt and pepper. Toss, drizzle with olive oil, and serve.

Watercress

Do not overlook this power vegetable—it’s not just a pretty garnish. Each crunchy, peppery bite is loaded with phytonutrients and antioxidants, powered by iron, calcium, and folic acid. And it’s another green vegetable usually eaten fresh that also loves to be cooked; see Stir-Fried Watercress with Garlic (page 227).

My Favorite Salad

greek salad with fried leeks

serves 4 to 6

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Greek Salad with Fried Leeks and Spinach Phyllo Pie (page 87)

Many iterations of this salad exist, from the basic Greek-diner type to more upscale versions. I love its simplicity and the juxtaposition of the vegetables, cheese, olives, and stuffed grape leaves. The addition of fried shredded leeks had me returning weekly to my neighborhood restaurant where I discovered the idea. I serve it with Spinach Phyllo Pie (page 87) for a satisfying vegetarian meal.

1½ cups safflower oil

1 leek, white and pale green parts only, washed well, cut into 3-inch-long julienne (see Note, page 83)

One 15½-ounce can chickpeas, drained, rinsed, and patted dry

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

½ teaspoon coarse salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

1 English cucumber, peeled, quartered lengthwise, and sliced ⅓ inch thick

1 pint grape tomatoes, halved

½ cup Kalamata olives, pitted and halved

1 romaine heart, trimmed and sliced ½ inch thick

6 ounces store-bought stuffed grape leaves, quartered crosswise

4 ounces Greek feta cheese, crumbled

  1. Heat an 8-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add the safflower oil (see Note, page 171). Once it shimmers, working in 2 or 3 batches, add the leeks and fry until golden brown, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate.
  2. Fry the chickpeas in 2 batches until golden brown, about 2 minutes per batch. Transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate.
  3. Whisk together the vinegar, salt, pepper, and oil in a medium bowl. Add the cucumber, tomatoes, and olives and toss to combine.
  4. Spread the romaine on a large platter and cover with the dressed vegetables. Top with the grape leaves, chickpeas, leeks, and feta and serve.

Chickpeas

I love chickpeas plain in Greek salads, but fried chickpeas offer a whole new texture to enjoy. Also try them seasoned and fried to serve as a bar snack with drinks.

nutshell recipe: spiced chickpea snack

Rinse and dry canned chickpeas and toss with olive oil, salt, pepper, and a favorite spice like cumin or garam masala (see page 17). Spread on a baking sheet and roast in a 400°F oven for 20 minutes, until golden and slightly firm.

Man Made

burger salad

serves 2

One night, when I got home from work, there was “nothing in the house to eat” (a common complaint from my children). My husband pulled a burger from the freezer and the last vegetable and a few lonely scallions from the crisper, and made the most satisfying and delicious warm salad.

Wow, a burger in a salad? Hells yeah! Now I purposely shop for the ingredients for this dinner.

6 ounces ground beef

Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

Dash of Worcestershire sauce or soy sauce

1 small head broccoli, separated into large florets, stalk peeled and thinly sliced

Extra virgin olive oil for drizzling

2 scallions, thinly sliced

Hot sauce, such as Sriracha

  1. Heat a cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat until hot. Shape the beef into 2 patties that are ½ inch thick and season with salt and pepper. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes, until slightly charred. Flip the burgers and continue cooking. After 2 minutes, add a splash of Worcestershire sauce and swirl it in the pan for about 30 seconds to deglaze. Turn the burgers again just to coat with the glaze and remove from the heat.
  2. Meanwhile, steam the broccoli until just tender, about 5 minutes.
  3. Toss the broccoli with a drizzle of olive oil in a large bowl. Chop or crumble the burgers into the broccoli. Sprinkle with the scallions. Sprinkle on some hot sauce. Toss everything together and serve.
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This salad can, literally, be pulled from the freezer. If you buy ground beef, form it into patties, wrap individually, and stick in the freezer, you’re always ready for a burger—or burger salad! (I’ve even pulled out a couple of patties to crumble and cook with tomato sauce for a desperation pasta meal.) And, believe it or not, frozen broccoli florets are perfectly acceptable in a pinch. Broccoli is one of the few vegetables—along with corn, and spinach, and peas—that I keep stocked for emergencies.

Outside the Bun

sausage and pepper salad with golden crostini

serves 5

“Sauseege and pippeez” is our street fair favorite. The scent wafting from the vendor carts conjures up memories of my grandmother’s Italian kitchen. Updated for a new generation, here the sausages and vegetables are perched atop lettuce and licoricey fennel rather than tucked into fat, doughy rolls. Ciabatta bread is sliced and toasted for a crispy crouton-like contrast to the salad.

2 hot Italian sausages, removed from casings

4 sweet Italian sausages, removed from casings

1 yellow bell pepper, cored, seeded, and cut into ½-inch-wide strips

1 large shallot or 2 small shallots, thinly sliced

¼ cup dry white wine

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

4 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled

5 slices ciabatta or rustic white Italian bread

1 head romaine lettuce, trimmed and cut into 1½-inch pieces

1 small fennel bulb, trimmed and very thinly sliced

1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

¼ cup shaved Parmesan cheese

  1. Put the sausage in a large skillet and sauté, using a metal spatula to break up the pieces, until golden brown with some crispy bits, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate.
  2. Add the peppers and shallots to the pan and sauté until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the wine, stirring to deglaze the pan (see Note) and cook to reduce it to a slight glaze coating the peppers. Place the pepper mixture on top of the sausage.
  3. Add 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and the garlic to the pan and let the garlic sizzle; remove before it turns brown. Add the bread and cook until golden on the first side, about 2 minutes. Drizzle the remaining tablespoon of olive oil over the bread, turn, and continue cooking until crisp. Remove from the heat.
  4. Toss the lettuce and fennel in a large bowl, then add the sausage and pepper mixture. Drizzle the vinegar over, sprinkle with salt and a generous grind of black pepper, and toss well. Serve in large salad bowls, topped with the shaved Parmesan and crostini.

Out-of-the-Casing Sausage Sausages can be a convenience food. Slice the links open and remove the meat from the casing. Already seasoned and ready, it’s a simple, delicious base for a meat sauce (see page 150). Or crumble and cook to layer it into lasagna.

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Deglazing is a technique where a liquid (such as broth, wine, or vinegar) is used to dislodge the yummy caramelized bits that adhere to the bottom of a pan during cooking. Add the liquid when the heat is high. Using a wooden spoon or spatula, scrape the flavor nuggets off the bottom of the pan and stir into the liquid as it reduces and concentrates in flavor.

Summer Sunshine

corn salad

serves 6 to 8

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Corn Salad and Escarole and Date Salad with Parmesan (page 112)

This has always been a staple in my mother’s house during the summer, when corn is sweet and tomatoes are at their peak. Vary the herbs and acid to your taste, subbing in cilantro, mint, or dill and lemon juice, orange juice, or rice wine vinegar.

6 ears corn

2 medium tomatoes, chopped

3 scallions, thinly sliced

¼ cup thinly sliced fresh basil leaves

Juice of 1 lime

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

½ teaspoon coarse salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

  1. Strip the corn from the cobs into a large bowl. With the edge of a spoon, scrape the corn “milk” (see Note) from the cobs into the bowl. Add the remaining ingredients and stir to combine.
  2. The salad can be made a day ahead and stored in the fridge. Remove from the refrigerator at least 30 minutes before serving.
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Corn milk is the liquid released from the raw kernels when they are cut off the cob. Once the kernels are removed, some milk still remains on the cob. Don’t waste it, since it contains a sweet corny essence that intensifies the flavor of this salad.

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Stripping corn from the cob can be awkward. I see folks slicing down between kernels and cob inside a bowl to catch all the flying kernels, but I find it difficult to get a good grip on the corn unless the cob is on a flat surface. And a 10-inch cob can be hard to hold and slice while using a sharp knife. So, after I shuck the corn and remove all the silk, I break the cobs in half so each piece is about 4 or 5 inches long. These are much easier to hold upright on a counter or cutting board and shave. Bring on the flying kernels.

Step out of the Salad Rut

escarole and date salad with parmesan

serves 6

Adding an unexpected ingredient like dates can give a favorite salad recipe a whole new flavor dimension. Bitter escarole and radicchio, salty Parmesan, and sweet, chewy dates combine in a contrasting taste explosion. Use half a head of escarole for this salad and store the rest in a resealable bag in the fridge for later use.

½ head escarole, trimmed, sliced lengthwise in half, and thinly sliced crosswise

1 head radicchio, cored and thinly sliced

⅓ cup thinly sliced pitted dates

⅓ cup fresh lemon juice

½ teaspoon Dijon mustard

¼ cup grated Parmesan, plus shavings for optional garnish

½ cup extra virgin olive oil

Freshly ground black pepper

  1. Combine the escarole and radicchio in a large salad bowl. Toss in the dates.
  2. Combine the lemon juice, mustard, grated Parmesan, olive oil, and black pepper to taste in a jar with a tight-fitting lid and shake well to combine. Pour over the salad and toss. Serve with shaved Parmesan, if desired.

Escarole

One thing I preach is greens, greens, and more greens; we eat them most nights at home, fresh or cooked. Escarole is an often-overlooked player, but growing up with an Italian heritage, I got it sautéed with olive oil and garlic, floating in a meatball soup, and layered or stuffed into macaroni. Fresh, it has an aggressive flavor and texture, making it ideal paired with anchovies—dare I say—or contrasted with a sweet ingredient, as it is in this salad. When using a firm-textured, bitter green like this, tear or cut the leaves into bite-size pieces so it’s easier to chew.

Dessert Too

modern ambrosia fruit salad

serves 4

I love the cool, sweet contrast of fruit to cream in this retro 1950s fruit salad, but not the typical commercial recipe ingredients—fake-cream Cool Whip and marshmallows. So I’ve modernized and cleaned it up it with honey-sweetened yogurt and the addition of kiwis.

3 mandarin oranges, peeled, sectioned, and sections cut crosswise in half, or 1 cup canned mandarin oranges (see below)

½ pineapple, peeled, cored, and cut into ¾-inch chunks (2 cups)

3 kiwis, peeled, quartered lengthwise, and sliced crosswise (1 cup)

1 cup sweetened flaked coconut, plus some for garnish

1 cup Greek-style yogurt

1 tablespoon honey

½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract

  1. Put the oranges, pineapple, kiwi, and coconut in a serving bowl and toss to combine.
  2. Whisk together the yogurt, honey, and vanilla. Fold into the fruit, garnish with coconut, and serve.

Mandarin Oranges

Mandarins are a beautiful little fruit with a unique and different citrus flavor. But since fresh ones are not often available, even in season, I keep a few cans in the pantry. They’re great for a quick salad add-in or dessert—they will help you if you let them. For instance, in Orange Creamsicle Float (page 257), they are muddled before the ice cream and some soda are added, for a quick and satisfying sweet. Or serve with canned lychees and fortune cookies to complete a Chinese feast, or with squares of bittersweet chocolate and toasted nuts for a snack.