Foreword

New Orleans is as far as you can get from America and still be in it. The historic French and Spanish buildings, plus antebellum homes mixed with shotgun houses, make New Orleans look like nowhere else. Jazz, born in New Orleans, is joined by Cajun, zydeco, brass band, blues, and bounce, making the city sound like no other. Visitors come to the Big Easy on a mission to sample unique Cajun and Creole foods. And New Orleans’ history—with plaçage, coartación, and Voodoo, plus aboveground burials and cocktails in to-go cups—makes the city seem like a rebellious teenager, willfully trying not to fit in.

Unlike most urban hubs, New Orleans is less about consumption and more about experiences. You need to jump in and participate. There’s always a festival or parade happening someplace. Jazz Fest and Essence each draws half a million people. There are three parades every Easter and three vampire balls on Halloween. There are one-of-a-kind events such as Red Dress Run, in which men and women sport red dresses for a mini-marathon sponsored by Hash House Harriers, a “drinking group with a running problem.” If you’re lucky enough to be in town following another’s misfortune, second-line funeral parades have been called New Orleans’ quintessential art form. Then, there’s the madness of Mardi Gras. During weeks of festivities, classic parades like Zulu and Muses are joined by the Krewe of Barkus, a dog parade, and ‘tit Rex, where participants pull tiny doll-house-sized floats strapped to their bicycles. 

The following profiles highlight lesser-known spots, favoring the grotto in St. Roch Cemetery over Marie Laveau’s grave, and the backyard House of Dance and Feathers museum rather than the World War II Museum. But the truth is that New Orleans is best experienced by wandering around and bumping into things. 111 Places should not be used as a bucket list, but as a starting point. The goal is to make you an informed flaneur.