To some they’re Southern; to me they’re summer. I can remember back in the days when the trip to the Vineyard was twice the length that it is now. Then, heading north involved being taken, groggy, from my bed and ensconced in the backseat of the car, which had been prepared as a nook for me, complete with blankets and games and books. By dawn, it was time for car food, which meant deviled eggs. The yellow would always smear on the waxed paper, and I would eat it off before my mother handed me the premoistened washcloth so I could clean myself up. Later, when I located a triangular deviled-egg plate at an antique shop on the island, I damned the cholesterol naysayers and proudly served my deviled eggs on the bright yellow plate. They still mean summer to me. I just can’t have them as often as I used to.
MAKES 16
Gently peel the eggs, making sure that they remain whole. Slice each egg in half lengthwise. Carefully scoop out the yolks and place them in a small bowl. Arrange the whites, hollow-side up, on a flat plate or a deviled-egg plate.
Add the mayonnaise, mustard, chili powder, ¼ teaspoon paprika, salt, and pepper to the yolks, and mash together with a fork until smooth. Then, gently spoon an equal amount of the yolk mixture into each white. Or, you can be fancy and use a pastry bag to pipe the yolk mixture into the whites.
Lightly cover the plate with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour. Uncover, sprinkle each egg half with a little paprika, and serve chilled.