In the 1960s, after we’d had our house on the Vineyard for a few years, we met Arlen and Perry Westbrook, who became friends. They were bohemians from upstate New York and had a house right on Ocean Park in Oak Bluffs. Their Vineyard was different from ours and we tagged along occasionally and watched in delight as they did the Euell Gibbons thing, foraging for wild greens, ripe berries, and seafood that they would cook up and share with us. I remember one memorable occasion when we went out to Menemsha and returned with a bucket of mussels that we scrubbed and then steamed. It was unusual food in the days before bistros made moules marinières standard fare for many Americans. Serve the fragrant mussels with crusty bread.
SERVES 4
Pick over the mussels, discarding any that fail to close to the touch and that are either too heavy or too light. The open ones are dead, the heavy ones are likely to contain only mud, and the light ones are probably dead or dying. Clean the mussels with a stiff brush, removing any barnacles and seaweed that are attached. Use a paring knife to remove any stubborn bits. Rinse the mussels in cool water. Finally, place the mussels in a large container with water to cover and allow them to sit for 2 to 3 hours to expel all sand. Drain and remove the beard (the hairlike filaments that the mussel uses to hold onto rocks or pilings) from each mussel by pulling it out.
Combine the wine, water, butter, onion, parsley sprigs, garlic, thyme, and a few grinds of pepper in an 8-quart pot. Place over medium heat, bring to a simmer, and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the mussels, cover, and raise the heat slightly. Allow the mussels to cook, stirring 2 or 3 times, for 4 to 5 minutes. They are ready when the shells open slightly and the bodies are plump. Be careful not to overcook the mussels.
Immediately divide the mussels evenly among 4 soup bowls, discarding any mussels that failed to open. Allow the broth to settle for a few minutes, so that any sand sinks to the bottom, then spoon the broth over the mussels. Top with the chopped parsley and serve.