CURRANTS AND CREAM ICE CREAM
In our quest to source only the very best ingredients, sometimes we have to search the globe for the very best flavors: Vanilla, chocolate, and pistachios are all ingredients that are imported to the United States. With certain ingredients, however, local is best, as is the case with our red currants.
Hudson Valley is home to some of the best berries, and we were lucky to find a farm that grew enough beautiful red currants for us to use in our ice cream. Ben’s friend Sarah spent some time in Scandinavia, where red currants are prominent in cooking, and suggested we use them in our ice cream. We loved the idea of highlighting these tart berries in sweet custard, and the resulting ice cream is one of our, and our customers’, favorites, especially in the summertime.
MAKES ABOUT 1 QUART
FOR THE RED CURRANT COMPOTE
2 cups (400 grams) red currants
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons (125 grams) sugar
Pinch of kosher salt
FOR THE ICE CREAM BASE
2 cups heavy cream
½ cup whole milk
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons (125 grams) sugar
¼ teaspoon (1 gram) kosher salt
6 large egg yolks
1. To make the red currant compote, in a nonreactive bowl, combine the currants, sugar, and salt and let stand at room temperature for at least 2 hours. Strain into a bowl and measure out 1 cup of the syrup from the bowl; set aside (reserve any remaining syrup for another use). Transfer the berries to a separate bowl and set aside as well.
2. To make the currants and cream ice cream, pour the cream and milk into a double boiler or a heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of simmering water (the bottom of the bowl should not touch the water). Whisk in ½ cup (100 grams) of the sugar and the salt and stir until they have dissolved. Warm the mixture until you see steam rising from the top.
3. Meanwhile, prepare an ice bath in a large bowl and set another bowl over it. Set aside.
4. In a medium bowl, with a kitchen towel underneath it to prevent slipping, whisk together the egg yolks with the remaining 2 tablespoons (25 grams) sugar until uniform. While whisking, add a splash of the hot dairy mixture to the yolks. Continue to add the dairy mixture, whisking it in bit by bit, until you’ve added about half. Add the yolk mixture to the remaining dairy mixture in the double boiler. Set the heat under the double boiler to medium and cook the custard, stirring continuously and reducing the heat to medium-low as necessary, until steam begins to rise from the surface and the custard thickens enough to coat the back of the spoon. Hold the spoon horizontally and run your finger through the custard. If the trail left by your finger stays separated, the custard is ready to be cooled.
5. Strain the custard into the bowl sitting over the prepared ice bath and stir for 3 to 5 minutes, or until the custard has cooled. Stir in the reserved 1 cup currant syrup until incorporated. Transfer the custard to a quart-size container, cover, and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or, preferably, overnight.
6. Pour the chilled custard into an ice cream maker and freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Place the container in which you refrigerated the custard in the freezer so you can use it to store the finished ice cream. Churn the ice cream until the texture resembles “soft serve.” Add all of the reserved currants, and churn for about 30 seconds, until just combined. Transfer the ice cream to the chilled storage container and freeze until hardened to your desired consistency. Alternatively, you can serve it immediately—it will be the consistency of gelato. The ice cream will keep, frozen, for up to 7 days.