4. Finding a Hairdresser

When I was a young wannabe hairdresser starting out in the business, I got my first gig as an apprentice in a small salon near my home in Manchester, England. It’s true that I was a young creative with plenty of ambition, but to be honest, the real reason I took the job was that I was looking to get paid for listening to music and socializing. Because hair salons are very social places and have music blasting all day, I decided hairdressing was the job for me!

Soon after starting my apprenticeship, I saw an advertisement for assistants for Vidal Sassoon. At the time, Manchester didn’t have too many prospects for music-mad teenagers like me. But Vidal Sassoon was an exception. It was the coolest, most glamorous location for any hairdresser north of London. Absolutely brilliant, I thought. Better music and more socializing. I had to apply.

But when I arrived for the interview, the level of professionalism, the commitment to client service, and the quality of the hairdressing struck me hard and true. It was eye-opening and inspiring. The prospects were thrilling. I realized this was my one chance to carve out a successful career and master the art of hairdressing. As for the music and socializing, what a great bonus!

I got the job thanks to the determination I expressed during my interview. And it was there that I learned the foundations of quality haircutting, the importance of a professional consultation, and how essential a great client experience really is.

I’m telling you this because by now you should know what type of hairstyle you’d like (and perhaps even some alternative styles you will want a year—or two—from now), so it’s time to give you the tools to find the salon and the hairdresser you need to achieve that look. In a nutshell, the elements of a great salon experience that I learned about as a teenager are just what you should be getting every time you walk into the salon: professionalism, a great consultation, quality cut and color, commitment to the client, and happy staff who take pleasure in their work. If you don’t get these things, take your hard-earned dollars to a hair salon that meets all these expectations with an easy, client-friendly smile.

Behind the Chair

Going to the hair salon should be a fun, exciting experience that makes you feel special and rejuvenated, and makes you look sensational. Personally, I love being behind the chair and taking care of my clients because it gives me the chance to communicate with people and get them excited about a beautiful, brand-new hairstyle. I can give clients inspiration and the confidence to know that a new look will be right for them. I can find out all their expectations of what they’d like to see at the end of the appointment, adding my own spin to make it an even better look. I give them the haircut they dreamed of, one that I also know they can style easily at home from day to day. Even after twenty-five years in the business, this is an exciting, invigorating experience for me, and you should feel this same passion for hair, this same commitment to understanding your needs, and this same willingness to meet and exceed your expectations, no matter who your hairdresser is.

As in any industry, there are lots of hairdressers who are committed to their craft and continue to try to improve each and every day, and there are hairdressers who haven’t had the level of education or experience needed to fulfill all the expectations of their clients. I know who I’d rather have shaping my personal style. So I’ll use my salon experience to give you your best chance of finding the perfect hair salon and the perfect hairdresser for you.

Putting the Process in Order

You can walk into practically any hair salon on any given day and get an appointment. But how much do you really know about the salon and the people working behind the chairs? Most likely, the answer is not a lot. I believe that you should find out everything you possibly can about a salon and its employees before you commit to a cut or color service. To do this, I’ve broken down the process of finding a salon, and then finding the right hairdresser in that salon, into six easy steps. Some people are nervous about getting their hair made over and others are bold and confident. I can understand both emotions because making a change can be exciting or nerve-racking, depending on your personality and state of mind. However, I encourage everyone to embrace the spirit of change, and the best way to handle any nerves is to arm yourself with as much information as possible, not just about the kind of cut you want and that best suits your hair but also about the best person (and place) for the job.

If you are a bit of a nervous Nellie about getting your hair cut, take this process one step at a time. If you’re bold and confident about getting a haircut, and if everything is going according to plan, then you can bundle steps 3 through 6 into one. It’s your choice. Many of you already have a hair salon that you visit regularly. That’s fine, especially if you’ve been happy with the results in the past, but I still advise you to take some time to evaluate whether the stylist you have is right for your future and to put him or her to the test by considering some alternatives. I’m not saying you have to change places and people and start all over again, but it’s a good idea to use this six-step process as a checklist to make sure you’re getting the best cut, color, and experience that you can for your money.

STEP 1: ASK, ASK, ASK

When we see a great piece of architecture, a moving piece of art, or anything new and original that catches our eye, one of the first things that many of us do is find out who created it. To find a great hairdresser, you should do the same. If you see a stranger with Great Hair, be brave and kindly ask her who cut it. I can guarantee that no one will mind the question. Who wouldn’t take it as a compliment if a person walked up to her and said, “Oh, my gosh, I absolutely love your hair. Where did you get it cut, and who is your stylist?” You can ask friends and family, too, anyone you see or know who appears like-minded, confident, and happy with her look, especially if her hair looks similar to yours in texture and shape and the cut she has is similar to what you want. For example, if you crave a classic cut, ask someone with a great classic cut; if you want an avant-garde cut, ask someone with a great avant-garde cut. Then make a list of every name and place you are referred to.

STEP 2: DO YOUR RESEARCH

Now that you have some referrals to salons and stylists, take advantage of the Information Age in which we are living and find out everything you can about your prospects. It’s truly amazing how much you can find out about people and places on the Internet, and this is the perfect place to start to find out more about stylists before you let anyone touch your hair.

To separate the weak from the great, I suggest citysearch.com as your first port of call. It’s the best place to judge what real people think because the reviews come from real people who have visited the salon of their own accord. Then those reviews are bundled together by the webmasters to give an average overall rating. It really is the acid test. It’s easy to do. Log on to the Web and type in citysearch.com, click on “salons and spas,” and you’ll find a huge list of places, all in your area. You can read the editorial overview to get a feel for the place and then individual reviews for ratings and personal experiences. Most places score an average of at least 8.5 out of 10. The best places rate above 9.5, so start by looking at the top-rated salons and, if you don’t see anything you like, simply work down the list. A word of caution, though: Even the very best salons get the odd bad review—it’s the nature of the independent online reviews. Go with the majority, not the minority. Most towns and cities are now covered by citysearch, but if your location isn’t, another good idea is to check your local Better Business Bureau. The Better Business Bureau allows consumers to make official, serious complaints only, but because of that, the registered complaints are founded in truth: If the salon you’re going to has complaints on the BBB Web site, it’s probably best avoided.

You can also use the Web to Google the salon’s name. It’ll link you to the salon’s Web site, or, if it doesn’t have a Web site, you should at least be able to find information on the type of work offered and the type of environment. Many salon Web sites now provide biographies of their hairdressers so you can find out a bit more about the experience their employees have, too.

Salons that do have a Web site allow you to discover more about the salon’s identity. By clicking around the site you should be able to see whether they only cut or cut and color, whether they just do styling (updo styling salons are becoming increasingly popular), whether they are a full-service spa, whether they have an upbeat, creative feel, whether they are cool and contemporary, or whether they are ornate and refined. You’ll also generally find the prices for all their services and the policies of the salon.

Your research should give you a good idea of the salon’s identity. Now you can consider where you fit in. Choose a salon that fits well with you and your own idea of what a hair salon should be. What do I mean? Well, if you consider yourself young, contemporary, and cool, then choose a salon whose image reflects the cool and contemporary vibe with which you’re most comfortable. Or if you consider yourself to be more conservative and elegant, find a salon with a more classical image to match. If you feel comfortable walking into a salon, it’s much more likely that you’ll feel comfortable with the experience as a whole.

STEP 3: PEEK IN

Once you’ve found a few salons that sound good to you, it’s time to start getting a feel for them. The next step is to walk by and peek in to get a better feel for what’s going on inside the salon, rather than just what’s going on in cyberspace.

The first thing to do is look at the stylists and other employees, because if their hair doesn’t look great, it’s a good bet that the clients aren’t looking all that hot, either. At the very least their hair should look clean, healthy, and well cut, but in reality they should be inspiring you with the rich variety of styles, and the quality cut and color of their own hair. And what about their overall image? Do they look like modern beauty professionals? Does their complete image match the expectations you had when you walked into the salon? How does this image fit with you? Ask yourself: “Do I feel comfortable walking in here and letting these people loose on my hair? Are they the right people to shape and define my style?”

Next, have a look around the front desk, because this is where the client should be greeted first with professionalism and respect. Expect the front desk to be free from overcrowding, staff mumbling among themselves, and general messing around. It definitely should be clean and tidy. If there’s lots of staff hanging around, and it feels intimidating to you, it lacks the professionalism you’re looking for. Employees should be calm, in control, and welcoming, especially when they see a potential new client.

To firm up your opinion of the salon, look at the clients in the chairs. Are they your type of people? Do they look glad to be there, or desperate to find a way out? Most important: the hair. Check out how finished clients look when they leave the chairs. They should be walking out looking great and happy. Also scrutinize how clean the salon is; it should be immaculate. If it’s a mess, it’s likely the haircuts will be equally messy.

Finally, look for any in-house promotional material that the salon produces. It doesn’t mean it’s a bad salon if there isn’t anything like in-house newsletters, magazines, press clippings, or their own photo shoots lying around. The salon might not have the time and money for these things. If you do see promotional material, it shows that the owner(s) is trying to push forward, create a brand identity, and connect with the clients, which is always a good thing—and it also enables you, the client, to find out more about the personality of the place where you get your hair done, which is a nice touch for the salon to add. At the very least, there should be a price list for all their services, and you should definitely pop one of those into your bag for future reference.

You may feel a bit self-conscious walking into a salon just to analyze the place, so come up with a good reason for being there in case anyone asks. The best cover is product. All salons sell it, so ask a member of the staff to recommend which products are most suitable for you and your hair. You can say you’re looking for something to give you more volume or more hold, or you’re looking for a curl-enhancing product, whatever is the best fit for you. (This is also a good time to ask a professional to define your hair texture and shape.) It gives you a reason to be there and talk to the staff, and a chance to assess how knowledgeable and caring toward potential new clients they are. You might even discover a great new product!

STEP 4: THE BANG TRIM

Another excellent way to gauge a salon and a potential hairdresser is to ask the front desk staff to recommend a stylist to give you a bang trim. This is a five-minute service that is normally complimentary, but check just in case. A bang trim is just what is sounds like: A hairdresser sits you down, sprays some water on your bangs, and trims them so they are tidy, refined, and face framing. If you are asked to pay, it shouldn’t be much. But if it’s complimentary, it shows that the salon is working hard to build long-term relationships. That’s because if you like your bang trim and the way you are treated, then chances are you’ll come back. Look for them to be building a relationship with you. Your hairdresser should ask you all the typical getting-to-know-you questions: What’s your name? Where are you from? What do you do? How do you like your hair? How short would you like your bangs? and so on and so forth. Remember to analyze your hairdresser. Is he or she calm and confident? Do you feel comfortable and relaxed? If the hairdresser can’t manage a bang trim without making you nervous, you know not to go back for a complete cut. On the other hand, if he or she makes your bangs look great, and impresses you with an air of confidence, knowledge, and skill, you can start thinking about making an appointment.

STEP 5: MAKE YOUR APPOINTMENT

If you were happy with your bang trim, you may want to go straight to the front desk and book an appointment with that stylist. If you want more time to mull it over, just say “thank you" and “I’ll call to make an appointment"—easy. However, if you skipped over the bang trim (or you don’t have bangs!) or are still unsure, how can you be sure you are choosing the right hairdresser for you?

With all my experience, I can safely say the best hairdressers are, regardless of how much they charge, the busiest hairdressers. When you call to make an appointment, it’s a good idea to ask the front desk who are the busiest, most popular stylists. Normally, if you let the front-desk team lead the conversation and recommend a stylist to you, they will refer you to the least busy stylist because it’s the quieter ones who have the most open slots. I don’t believe in this policy, and it’s certainly not one I employ, but most salons do, so be forceful and make sure you get the stylist you want.

Another way to ensure you get a great hairdresser is the price. Of course a high price is no guarantee of high quality, but the more expensive stylists usually have more experience, and if they charge a lot and still retain a strong client base, then they must be doing something right.

If you’re looking for a cheaper option, many salons have great educational programs for apprentice hairdressers. These youngsters may indeed have exceptional skill and training but simply lack the experience they need to merit charging higher prices. When you call, ask what training, if any, younger, less experienced stylists are given. If the salon has a good education program and makes a habit of hiring talented, creative, and driven young stylists, then it’s a fantastic low-cost option.

STEP 6: THE CONSULTATION

If you’re still not ready to take the plunge, call and ask for an appointment for a consultation. Say something like, “I’m thinking about getting my hair cut but I’m not sure how. Could I set up a consultation so I can get a better idea about what options I have?” Again, that’s easy. If you do go ahead and book an appointment to get your hair cut, then your appointment should also start with a consultation.

This is where you can really see how good a stylist someone is, because a hairdresser’s consultation skills are critical. For a hairdresser, the ability to communicate with a client is fundamental. When I conduct a consultation, the first thing I do is listen and understand what my client wants—what are her expectations? Expect any hairdresser worth his or her salt to do the same, because a hairdresser who doesn’t understand your expectations has zero chance of matching—let alone exceeding—them.

So make sure that after the introductions your stylist is listening to you. Tell your hairdresser what you expect to happen, and be specific: Do you want to take an inch off the bottom, or five inches? Do you want a strong shape or a soft shape? Do you want layers or graduation? A textured, messy look? A long smooth, polished cut?

This is also the time to show your hairdresser any hairstyle pictures you have found in this book, in magazines, or anywhere else. Definitely don’t hesitate to take a picture or two to show off what you want. Hairdressers are visual, creative people and generally respond well to a visual example. One note of caution: Choose a picture for the hair, not for the image of the person. The image is likely manufactured; the hair is real. Focus on the haircut and how that’s going to work for you day to day rather than trying to look like the airbrushed celebrity or model does in that one moment in time.

After about two minutes of my clients talking to me about their expectations and showing me any pictures of styles they’d like to go for, I take up the reins by telling them the truth—that what they want is a great fit for them or that the style they envision isn’t quite right. If what they want is a good fit, I push things forward a bit by suggesting a few exciting or trend-conscious ideas of my own that I believe will work great on the individual in question. If I don’t think a style is right, I quickly explain why, to keep the confidence of my client. It may be that the hair texture and shape just don’t suit what she wants to achieve; it may be that the hair is damaged and needs to be cut in a way that will make it damage-free; or it may be that the style is so difficult to achieve day to day that I feel it is too much work for the person.

Check Yourself Out

You should perform two self-checks to make sure your expectations are reasonable. What do I mean? Well, if you are making your consultation last more than ten minutes, then you are asking a lot of your hairdresser. It may be that you are struggling to give up the reins. You need to have confidence in the professional and learn to enjoy the process of change. (Of course, if it’s your hairdresser who is taking more than ten minutes, you know he or she lacks self-confidence.) Second, if you’ve tried peeking in five or more salons without feeling comfortable in any one of them, then again you may be struggling to commit to a new cut. Be brave, choose your favorite of the five (or more), and enjoy being pampered and transformed into a beautiful new you.

Whatever the reason, it is then my job to offer some alternatives and get the client excited about what those suggestions can—and will—do for her. Obviously, all hairdressers have their own way of expressing themselves and their own patterns of thought, but expect your stylist to be honest with you and to take the time to explain what he or she thinks, whatever that is. Your stylist should have good, creative ideas of his or her own as well as an awareness of any potential problems.

If the stylist foresees any problems, you should certainly listen to what he or she has to say. If your stylist is able to give you concrete reasons as to why the style you want won’t work for you, you should consider his or her opinion and appreciate that he or she is looking out for your best interests. On the other hand, if your stylist can’t reasonably explain why a particular style isn’t right for you, then you would be wise to walk away.

When your hairdresser takes up the reins, listen carefully and determine if he or she has listened to and understood your expectations. If the stylist has any exciting or trend-savvy ideas, decide whether you like the suggestions. You’re looking for someone with good communication skills, knowledge, confidence, and creativity. If your stylist exhibits those qualities and you’re feeling confident and excited about the ideas you’ve exchanged, then, great, you’re in good shape and can commit to a cut. If you’re unsure, you can say thank you for the consultation and the ideas, but you’d like to think about it before making a decision. If your hairdresser has a visible lack of confidence, no matter what the situation, you should walk away. Done right, a consultation truly allows you to assess whether you have found the right chair.

If you like your hairdresser but are perhaps concerned with what he or she wants to do, or the responses you’ve gotten to your questions, then do ask for a second, more experienced, opinion. The stylist should be calm and comfortable with this request. If not, it’s a sign you’re in the wrong hands. It shouldn’t be a problem to say, “Hey, I like your ideas, but can we get a second opinion just to make sure we’re going in the right direction?” At that point you should expect the owner, director, or manager to step in and give you the answers you want. In no more than two or three minutes he or she should reassure you that your hairdresser is doing the right thing, or make a new, improved suggestion and explain why the original idea wasn’t quite right. At that point you can quickly assess again whether you’re in the right chair.

On the flip side, hairdressers occasionally invite a second opinion themselves. Don’t let this worry you. It shows they care enough to make sure they’re doing the right thing. Especially for a young stylist, this is a brave and sensible move. Leaning on the experience of a senior colleague is something I ask all my young stylists to do.

The Cut

If you’re comfortable and happy with the stylist you’ve found using the six steps, get the cut and give a big warm welcome to a beautiful brand-new you. Remember, your hairdresser is there for you. Make sure your hairdresser helps you feel good about yourself and makes you look polished, sensational, and sexy. And, unless you’ve asked for something different, make sure you get a cut that you can style easily at home day to day. As I mentioned, a good haircut lasts a minimum of six weeks before the style starts to fail. How long the style lasts is another great way to tell if the cut you get is truly a good one. Most stylists can style your hair to look good by the end of your appointment, but if after three or four weeks it’s starting to look lifeless and limp, you know the foundations of the haircut weren’t right. If this is the case for you, speak to your hairdresser about putting that right. If he or she can’t fix the problem, my advice is to go to somebody who can.

BUILDING A RELATIONSHIP

If you want Great Hair, build a great relationship with your hairdresser. Don’t expect a one-hit wonder. Think about it: When you’re out and about and you meet someone new, the first conversations are made up of small talk. It’s always better the second time around. It’s the same for a hairdresser. The first time we’re getting to know you and your expectations, as well as the makeup of your hair. Finding a hairdresser you feel comfortable with and building a relationship allow you to work together for the long-term health, integrity, and style of your hair, and that’s much better than yo-yoing from hairdresser to hairdresser.

THE RAZOR

Nowadays more and more hairdressers are cutting with a razor instead of scissors. Personally, I love the razor and use it a lot. I find it’s an excellent way to create modern, low-maintenance hairstyles. If you’ve had, or get, a bad razor cut, don’t automatically think it’s the razor’s fault. You may have been to a substandard hairdresser who didn’t know how to use the razor correctly. Anyone proficient in both tools knows you can manipulate a razor to do anything you can do with scissors, and vice versa. It comes down to the hairdresser’s personal preference. But to give you a better idea of why your hairdresser chooses a razor over scissors, let’s take a quick look at some of the uses for this great tool.

Curl Conscious

Many curly-haired people let only another curly-haired person cut their hair! The belief is you have to have curly hair to understand curly hair. Rubbish. Just because you have curly hair doesn’t mean you know how to cut it. If you have curly hair, your focus should be the same as any other hair type: Get a great hairdresser. A great hairdresser can cut any hair shape or texture into a style-defining look you’ll love.

• Enables swing and movement

• Creates a modern, jagged line

• Gives the freedom to redefine hair texture(s)

• Thins out thick hair

• Creates a short, messy, and shaggy hairstyle

• Makes beautiful, soft, shaped layers

Speaking Our Language

We hairdressers often use technical terms like “texturizing" or “undercutting" when talking to you in a consultation. It’s our way of explaining what we want to achieve in the haircut. I know this hairdresserspeak can be a bit of a mind boggle and leave you wondering just what it is that we’re up to. So I’ll finish this chapter with a look at what all this fancy technical terminology really means for you.

Texturizing (sometimes called “point cutting") removes weight or bulk within the shape and structure of the haircut. Your hairdresser thins out the lower portion of your hair (or even just the very ends) almost strand for strand for a softer, lighter look with lots of movement, giving tailored fluidity and pieciness to the haircut. It’s also a common technique to define short, loose, and messy textures.

Graduation is a classic haircutting technique where the hair is tapered into the nape of your neck. It’s a subtle and gradual buildup of weight to add strength to the style of the cut, and it is often used to soften a one-length line so it doesn’t appear so severe.

Layering removes weight and bulkiness by cutting much shorter pieces that fall above your desired length. Instead of your hair being all one length, the cut is layered to create tiers of hair around the shape of the face, adding texture and curves, looseness and freedom.

Hairdressers often say “I’m going to get your hair to swing and move.” This can be done with any number of cuts and means that they’re looking to create space and freedom in your haircut to allow your hair to swing and move freely and sexily. For example, a layered haircut has a lot more freedom and movement than a one-length cut.

When hairdressers says they’ll be cutting a one-length line, they are going for the strongest possible perimeter shape. Rather than cutting in layers or texturizing the interior, all your hair will reach the same length. It doesn’t have the same softness and movement as some other haircuts, but it provides a strong, solid structure for you to work with.

If you have thick, bulky hair, it’s likely your hairdresser will take some of the weight out. Literally, this means that he or she cuts the interior (rather than the exterior shape) of the hair to remove bulky, unnecessary pieces. This can also be explained as “thinning out" the hair.

Undercutting makes your hair livelier and fuller by cutting the hair underneath shorter than the top layers. It allows the hair to fall effortlessly into place, creating a support structure for your style, and gives the illusion of extra body and bounce.

Summing It All Up

This chapter gives you the tools to find the right salon and the right hairdresser for you. Find a salon that is committed to professionalism, client service, and quality hairdressing, and you’re well on your way to a great hairstyle. Be mindful that choosing a salon that matches your own image and your own expectations of how a hair salon should be gives you your best chance of feeling comfortable when you put your trust in it to revamp your style.

My six-step process to finding the right salon and hairdresser is a guide to help you on your journey; use it any way that works for you. But pay particular attention to my thoughts on the consultation: By gauging a hairdresser’s communication skills in the consultation you get a great idea of how good the stylist truly is. And this is the last chance you have (before the cut) to walk away if you don’t feel like you’re in the right hands. Remember, too, that this chapter shows you how to evaluate the quality of your haircut up to six weeks after the event. The guide to the benefits of razor cutting should help you understand why it has become such a popular way to cut hair—it’s a great modern option that creates a lot of versatility, movement, and freedom in your hairstyle.

I also encourage you to build a great relationship with your hairdresser. Find a stylist you like and work together for the long-term benefit of your hair. This is a much more progressive approach than trying a new hairdresser every time you need a haircut (although, of course, if your stylist and/or salon fails to fulfill your expectations, you can look around for somewhere and someone that will).