Canada has no shortage of feisty public celebrations, but there’s only space for a handful on the bucket list. They don’t come any cooler than the Carnaval de Québec. Buried in my pockets, my hands were literally frozen as well. For over half a century, the world’s largest winter festival has attracted millions of revellers bundled up for the snow and ice to enjoy parades, competitions, activities, and parties. Much like Mardi Gras or Rio’s Carnival, the tradition dates back to the Catholic festivals preceding Lent. And like my experience at Mardi Gras and in Rio, this translates into alcohol and dancing, with the added bonus that both keep you warm.
The Carnaval’s official mascot is Bonhomme Carnaval, a jolly snowman with an unnerving smile. He’s a cross between Mickey Mouse and Elvis Presley, and his effigy in miniature is literally your entrance ticket into the Carnaval grounds in Quebec City’s Battlefields Park. I’m greeted by an ice slide, kids being pulled in sleds, food vendors, and deep regret that I didn’t add one more layer of long underwear. Well, Rio can keep its wild, sweaty street parties, and New Orleans the plastic beads of Fat Tuesday. This 17-day Carnaval has dogsledding, snow rafts, hot tubs, human foosball, and an ice palace complete with ice discos. Over a dozen teams from around the world work through the night on snow sculptures, and all of this can be enjoyed with your cheap entrance ticket.
I head to the top of the hill for an overview. My immediate impression is that the Carnaval site is smaller than I expected, but since the temperature has plummeted to –15°C, perhaps it’s wise that the crowds stick close together anyway. Beneath the Ferris wheel, two men in costumes are leading a Zumba class from the palace stage. It’s a direct challenge to winter: snow, ice, wind chill? We’ll dance to Shakira!
Ice is cracking on my face as my inflatable raft bounces down a bumpy snow channel. Most activities are family friendly, but there’s also a fair bit of drinking going on, mostly in the form of caribou, a hot mulled wine with added whisky. It’s perfectly acceptable to buy a Bonhomme cane, twist his head off, and fill up the cane with this hot liquor, a welcome and delicious anaesthetic for the cold.
There are daily events taking place during Carnaval, the most popular of which are the float parades and the ice canoe races across the St. Lawrence River. If you need proof that Canadians are a parachute short of a skydive, watch dozens of men and women paddle and run over floating chunks of ice in the St. Lawrence. Sometimes they paddle and run over each other, all for prize money that is small enough for teams to drink through in one evening.
Make Your Own Caribou
It’s easy to make Quebec City’s Carnaval drink of choice. Just get your hands on sherry, vodka, brandy, and port. And painkillers for the next morning.
3 oz. (100 mL) vodka
3 oz. (100 mL) brandy
12½ oz. (425 mL) Canadian sherry
12½ oz. (425 mL) Canadian port
Serves 10 (or 7 lushes, 3 bangers, and a partridge in a pear tree).
Since this is a celebration, I find myself sliding between the ice bars on Grande Allée, a popular evening attraction. Even though snow is piled high on the sidewalks, there’s an undeniable spirit permeating the whole city. The ceinture fléchée, a traditional French-Canadian sash, adds colour to the waists of locals and tourists. Portraits of Bonhomme are everywhere, and while the jolly mascot initially freaked me out with his dead marshmallow eyes, by the end I’m hugging him, too, joining small kids bundled up like walking pillows.
Canadians live in a northern country where winter is a way of life. Some people deal with it by staying home, others by moving away. Winter Carnaval is correctly revered as one of the world’s unique celebrations. If you dress warmly, embrace your inner child, and keep some caribou handy, you won’t freeze to death crossing this one off your bucket list.
START HERE: canadianbucketlist.com/carnival