Squid seems to have been created for stuffing. Calamari stuffed with pancetta and veal is moist and delicious and so easy to make. The gorgeously dark and deliciously comforting risotto is a traditional Venetian version that has always been a favourite of mine. More importantly, this is the kind of dish that you can make over and over again, for yourself or for friends, without ever tiring of it.
Serves 4
For the Stuffed Calamari
2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil
½ onion, finely chopped
¼ cup (60 mL) finely diced pancetta
1 tbsp (15 mL) roughly chopped thyme
1 large egg
1 lb (500 g) ground veal
½ cup (125 mL) panko bread crumbs
¼ cup (60 mL) whole milk
Salt and pepper
4 medium squid, cleaned (see page 31)
½ cup (125 mL) fish stock (page 247)
For the Squid Ink Risotto
4 to 5 cups (1 to 1.25 L) fish stock
½ cup (125 mL) unsalted butter
½ cup (125 mL) olive oil
3 shallots, finely chopped
1½ cups (375 mL) arborio rice
1 cup (250 mL) dry white wine
2 tsp (10 mL) squid ink paste
Salt and pepper
2 tbsp (30 mL) grated Parmesan cheese for garnish
For the Creamy Leek Sauce
2 tbsp (30 mL) unsalted butter
2 large leeks (white part only), diced
1 cup (250 mL) heavy cream
Salt and pepper
To make the stuffed calamari, in a large skillet over medium heat, heat 1 tbsp (15 mL) of the olive oil. Add the onion, pancetta, and thyme; cook, stirring frequently, until the onions are caramelized, 8 to 10 minutes. Set aside. In a large bowl, beat the egg. Add the ground veal, bread crumbs, milk, onion mixture, and salt and pepper to taste. Mix together well. Carefully stuff each squid body with the veal mixture; pat squid to distribute the filling evenly. Weave a wooden pick horizontally across the wide opening of each squid to seal. Set aside.
To make the squid ink risotto, in a large saucepan bring the fish stock to a gentle simmer. In another large saucepan over medium-low heat, melt the butter with the olive oil. Add the shallots and cook for a few minutes until softened but not coloured. Add the rice and stir with a wooden spoon until the rice is translucent and coated with the oil. Add the wine and cook until the liquid has reduced by half. Add the squid ink and stir thoroughly with a wooden spoon to disperse the ink throughout the rice. Add the stock, a ladleful at a time, stirring until each addition is absorbed before adding more. This should take about 20 minutes. Season to your taste with salt and pepper.
Meanwhile, make the leek sauce. Melt the butter in a large, heavy skillet over medium-low heat. Add the leeks and cook until tender, about 8 minutes. Add the cream and simmer until slightly thickened, about 3 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Remove from heat and keep warm.
About halfway through cooking the risotto, finish the squid. In a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat, heat the remaining 1 tbsp (15 mL) of olive oil. Sauté the squid, turning once, until browned. Reduce heat to medium-low. Add the fish stock, cover, and simmer until the squid is tender and cooked all the way through, about 8 minutes. Remove from stock, remove the wooden picks, and thickly slice the squid.
To serve, divide the squid ink risotto among 4 large pasta bowls. Ladle a good spoonful of creamy leeks on top of the risotto and top with sliced stuffed calamari. Sprinkle with Parmesan.