Over the last few years, biodynamics’ rapid development at the heart of viticulture has led to the creation of several producer groups. In France, three main bodies currently represent biodynamics: Demeter, Biodyvin and Renaissance des Appellations, or Return to Terroir. Naturally, the number of associations alone carries with it a certain risk of confusion.
It is important to know that since its inception, the biodynamic movement has been very structured and centred around the official bodies headquartered at the Goetheanum in Switzerland. The Demeter brand, in particular, has been used since 1928 to create brand awareness among consumers. Today there is one global association, the International Biodynamic Association (IBDA) which unites all biodynamic agricultural activities in each country. Additionally, Demeter-International oversees a network of national Demeter organisations in sixteen countries, including Demeter-France, Demeter Association Inc. (USA), and Demeter UK. Their primary task is the compilation of standards for biodynamic producers, as well as the organisation of inspections for certification and commercial use of the Demeter brand on products. In concrete terms, Demeter is the official certification body and guarantees consumers producer conformity to accepted biodynamic practices for all agricultural crops including grapes. For practical purposes, Demeter delegates inspections and the organisation thereof, to an independent, specialised firm (Ecocert, for example) who simultaneously inspects the organic agriculture standards application. The Demeter-France head office is located at the Maison de la Biodynamie in Colmar, Alsace.
The Syndicat International des Vignerons en Culture Biodynamique (SIVCBD, known as Biodyvin) is another producers’ association created in 1996, and is the result of a split at the heart of the biodynamic movement. At the time, certain biodynamic purists regularly accused winegrowers of not fully complying with all biodynamic principles (notably the one regarding the farm as an agricultural organism), citing, in particular, single-crop farms and the absence of animals. Given the fact that at the time membership fees were based on producer revenues, and winegrowers were by far the biggest contributors, it is easy to understand why some growers did not appreciate the recurrent criticism. Thus, a small group of domaines, led by the Alsacian Marc Kreydenweiss and the consultant François Bouchet, decided to create their own association focusing uniquely on viticulture, with its own standards and its own certification under the Biodyvin brand. Biodyvin is exclusively comprised of biodynamic wine producers who share the same philosophy: the pursuit of excellence in wine quality as well as the respect for the expression of terroir. New members are only accepted if they share this commitment to quality. For this reason, Biodyvin is also a place for technical exchanges among élite growers, and a consumer guarantee uniting biodynamics and great terroir wine. Like Demeter, Biodyvin commissions the actual inspection process to the independent firm, Ecocert.
Over the last few years, Demeter and Biodyvin have each been working on the establishment of standards which also cover winemaking operations (see question 16: Does biodynamics apply to vinification?).
The third group, Renaissance des Appellations, or Return to Terroir, was created more recently in 2001 by the well-known biodynamic pioneer from Anjou, Nicolas Joly, famous for his wit and his writings (Wine from Sky to Earth, published by Acres USA). The aim of this association is the promotion of biodynamics, and, more generally, a specific philosophy of wine based on the pursuit of the strictest authenticity in the vineyard and the winery. In order to have the greatest market impact, promotional activities are essentially carried out in the form of trade fairs for professionals (importers, sommeliers, wine merchants, and so on) and wine lovers from around the world. Return to Terroir is rather a communication body for biodynamics and is not involved in the inspection or certification of its members who should first be certified by Demeter or Biodyvin.
Today, with the increasing success of biodynamic viticulture, there is the risk of this term being abused. Marketing and communication can sometimes get ahead of agricultural reality. I remember seeing in 2009 a full-page advertisement in the Revue du Vin de France of a producer using biodynamic viticulture as a sales tool, even though he was not certified. For wine enthusiasts, it is difficult to really know what happens in the vineyard, and to distinguish between authentic biodynamics and counterfeits. Contrary to organic farming, biodynamics is neither recognised nor defined by central government or the European Union. Therefore, the only possible assurance today remains recourse to a trademark. For this reason, the terms ‘Bio-Dynamic’ and ‘Biodynamic’ are trademarked by Demeter. However, so far the association has never sued an unscrupulous producer for trademark infringement in order to protect its name. This is not how Demeter operates. It relies on consumers to be aware of what is actually practised in the vineyard. This is a word of caution, though, to wine lovers and journalists alike.