I have just addressed the question of sulphur, directly linked to that of conservation. At this point the following should be clear: for most winegrowers, practising biodynamics as well as seeking to decrease sulphite doses, corresponds to the pursuit of the highest authenticity, the greatest faithfulness to terroir, and the highest respect for the natural energies of the grape and the wine. We can thus expect a higher level of vitality and energy when the wine is bottled.
Biodynamically produced wine will therefore be alive, and normally more alive than a wine made conventionally. Consequently, it will also be more sensitive to surrounding storage conditions, favourable or not. First of all, there is temperature. All wine lovers know this, but in practice, very few really take it seriously. Let us remember that a biodynamic wine without added sulphites must be stored at a constant temperature of 15°C or lower. Ideally, for a cellar to guarantee optimal ageing it must have a temperature of 12°C +/- 2°C. Cellars of such quality are rare. Thus, for the most part, storage should be temporary, in other words, less than two years.
All other disturbances are potential sources of fatigue for the wine:
Irrespective of these considerations regarding the place of storage, I must also say a word about bottle closures. Cork is the traditional form of closure. As it is a natural material, its properties are inevitably inconsistent. There is indeed a considerable variation in wood fibres within the cork: density, age, the presence of scabs or holes, ripe or green tannins, not to mention residual chlorine pollution which is responsible for cork taste. Even in strictly identical storage conditions, variations exist from one bottle to another, unavoidably intensifying the longer the bottle is kept. The well-known saying among sommeliers comes from this: ‘There is no great wine, there are only great bottles!’ These observations have led some biodynamic growers who vinify without sulphites to opt for other closure techniques quite some time ago: metal capsules, as used by Pierre Frick in Alsace, or even glass stoppers. At first glance this can seem shocking because it is less natural. Yet, time will tell if the wine’s energy is indeed preserved over the long term.
For all these reasons, some might consider biodynamic wine to be more temperamental. As it is more sensitive to its surroundings, a biodynamic wine will probably be more unpredictable than a wine made by chemical agriculture which would be more rigid. Temperamental at times, yes, but without doubt more alive. For you to decide …