Hot, hectic and heaving with history,
Marrakesh is a head-spinner of a
city. The mighty Atlas Mountains
look down upon a metropolis that’s
brimming over with North African
magic and mayhem. The streets buzz
with Moroccan steam rooms, maze-
like markets and public squares full of
snake charmers and performers.
HIDE AND SOUK
There are souks
dotted all
around the Djemaa El-Fna
square. These outdoor
markets go back to
the days when North
African Berber tribes
came to the city to
trade. The souks
are tucked away in a
warren of tiny alleyways
that get mind-blowingly
busy. Mysterious magic
shops rub shoulders with
communal bakeries and
artisan studios.
PRIVATE PALACES
Marrakesh is full of marvellous riads
– traditional Moroccan houses
– where the garden is on the inside! The medina
, or walled quarter
of the city, has many fine riad
mansions. Many have fantastic flat
rooftops too, from where it’s possible to see the Atlas Mountains.
It’s hard to imagine in such a sweltering city that people go
skiing in those hills!
SECRET GARDEN
Marrakesh might be nicknamed the ‘red city’, but Jardin
Majorelle splashes some big beautiful blobs of blue and
green into the mix, too. The 1-hectare (2.5-acre) botanical
garden, an oasis of calm amid the chaos of the city, was
created by French painter Jacques Majorelle in the
1920s and 30s. The blue he used
to paint the buildings is so
uniquely bright that it’s
now named after him –
bleu Majorelle
.
ON YOUR BIKE
Stubborn donkeys, wandering tourists and horn-happy
car drivers all clutter Marrakesh’s streets, but it is scooters
that rule these roads. Driven by everyone from kids
to old ladies, the vehicles zip fearlessly in and out
of the traffic. The bold bikers include a group of
free-spirited young women, nicknamed the ‘Kesh
Angels’. The group dress in traditional outfits,
customised with pop art colours and
modern flourishes, such as love
heart sunglasses.
A DAY IN THE LIFE OF THE DJEMAA EL-FNA
As dawn breaks and the sun clambers over the 12th century clay
walls of the medina, the old town is painted in shades of ruby and
rust. Traders lead laden donkeys into the Djemaa El-Fna and set
up stalls selling everything from fish and freshly squeezed orange
juice to spices, shoes and souvenirs. It’s a kaleidoscope of colour.
According to one translation, the 1,000-year-old square’s name
means ‘the assembly of death’ and it was certainly the scene
of public beheadings in ancient times. Nowadays it’s a manic
marketplace where all of Morocco seems to be squished into
one arena. By late afternoon the square bustles with hawkers,
performers, Berber and Tuareg tribesmen, tourists, henna
painters, snake charmers, monkey trainers, street dentists
and pickpockets.
As the sun slides behind the 70m (230ft) tower
of Koutoubia Mosque and dusk descends, the
muezzins
begin calling Muslims to evening prayer.
The lights come on and the increasingly crowded
scene is cast anew. In the semi-darkness, hot food
stalls crank up their coals, creating a flavour-filled
fog. Snail soup, a Moroccan delicacy, is sold all
over the square. The big brown snails are cooked
in a broth bursting with flavours, including thyme,
pepper, citrus peel, aniseed and mint. Customers
chatter and laugh over cups of sweet mint tea.
The cooking smoke spirals up into the air and
the night buzzes on. Chleuh
dancing boys and
storytellers entertain the locals, while visitors gawp
at magicians and stare at the astonishing array
of traditional medicines on offer. It’s the end of just
another amazing day at Djemaa El-Fna.