Like most chosen pastimes, gardening is inherently rewarding. It inspires creativity from the moment you start planning the plot; it provides enjoyable outdoor exercise while you tend seedlings and vines; and it culminates in a deep sense of satisfaction when you harvest and feast on juicy tomatoes, crunchy beans and peas, and all the other fresh vegetables your plantings bear.
Still, as with any labor of love, having the proper tools and equipment goes a long way toward keeping the joys of gardening in the forefront. Be it a cold frame for getting a jump on the season, a rack for storing rakes and shovels, or a sturdy, lightweight box for gathering newly picked produce, the right prop can save you time, effort, and frustration. In this book you’ll find plans for 39 woodworking projects that fit the bill. Many are meant to be used specifically in or for the garden. Others (birdhouses and feeders, lawn chairs, and a bench-style swing) are designed to complement it by transforming your yard into a haven for wildlife and a place to sit back and survey your handiwork at the end of the day.
While some of the projects can be made easily by beginning woodworkers in a couple of hours, some will provide satisfying challenges for more experienced craftspeople. To ensure success, all the plans feature a shopping list of materials (including the types and lengths of wood you’ll need to request at the lumberyard) and step-by-step illustrated instructions for cutting the boards and assembling the pieces. In addition, throughout the book you’ll find helpful building tips pertaining to specific projects.
Before getting started, take a few minutes to read the following general woodworking advice. And if a question crops up during the building process, don’t be afraid to run it by a local craftsperson or trade-school teacher you may know. Many people versed in woodworking are happy to share their knowledge. You can probably find a lot of answers and tips online as well. By the time you’ve completed a project or two, you just may discover that you have a brand-new hobby.
Using the right tools for each woodworking project lets you work efficiently and ensures the best results. The same holds true for materials. Good-quality exterior hardware, for example, will hold up for a long time, making it well worth the investment. Here are some points to consider.
While you can make most cuts with hand tools in a pinch, power tools certainly make the job easier and more efficient. For example, using a power miter saw allows you to set the desired angle and cut a bunch of balusters in much less time, and more accurately, than if you were to mark the angle on each board individually.
You can build most of the projects in this book using a circular saw (preferably one with a rip guard), but a table saw is ideal. And for curved cuts a jigsaw makes for an easier job than a coping saw would. A jigsaw can also be used in lieu of a circular saw, which may be intimidating to use for beginners. One tool you won’t want to be without is a power drill, corded or cordless (which is convenient but not as powerful as a plug-in style).
When cutting wood, remember that sharp saw blades are easier to use and cut straighter than dull ones. Using a dull blade (be it on a handsaw or a power saw) can actually be dangerous because you have to apply more force than is ordinarily necessary to push it through the wood. The same applies to chisels and utility knives.
When building, a square is indispensable. The classic carpenter’s square is a large L-shaped piece of aluminum or steel and is particularly handy for large-scale projects. A combination square is smaller but more versatile, with a sliding ruler that can be used to mark 45° and 90° angles. A speed square can also come in handy for some projects. It is triangular in shape and pivots so you can mark any angle. Using a carpenter’s square to mark your cuts will ensure they are straight.
In most cases screws are a better choice than nails for a tighter hold — an asset for outdoor projects that are subject to humidity and temperature changes, which make the wood expand and contract, eventually popping the nails. The threads of the screws keep them tight. Screws are also more forgiving; if something needs adjusting, you can more easily unscrew a board than remove the nails. In general, use larger screws for structural and framing components and smaller, more decorative screws for finish pieces and surfaces.
A couple of the projects in this book call for a continuous hinge, also known as a piano hinge because it was developed to use on keyboard lids. This style of hinge doesn’t need to be recessed and, being relatively thin, is well suited for attaching to a ¾″ board. Continuous hinges are sold in most hardware stores and come in several standard sizes. You can use a hacksaw to cut one to the specific length required for a given project.
While you should be able to find the fasteners and hardware you need locally, there are some helpful online sources, too. McFeely’s (www.mcfeelys.com) specializes in hard-to-find tools and hardware. Rockler Woodworking and Hardware (www.rockler.com) and Woodworker’s Supply (http://woodworker.com) are a couple of other good sources.
When working with wood, keep a first-aid kit handy and dress comfortably but not in loose clothing — you don’t want a sleeve or shirttail to inadvertently get caught in a power tool. Invest in a good pair of work gloves (the ones coated with rubber for a better grip). Not only do these help you avoid getting splinters, but they are also indispensable when handling wire mesh. Eye protection is a must. Always wear safety goggles and a dust mask when cutting or sanding wood. Wear earplugs, too, when using power tools. Even repetitive hammering can take a toll on your hearing. Above all, respect the power of the tools you’re using, take your time, and stay focused on what you’re doing, rather than thinking about the next step or a phone call you want to make.
Once you start working with wood, you will be amazed at how many varieties are available. When selecting one, be sure to consider more than cost. Durability, how easy it is to work with, and aesthetics are important, too. Your choice will also depend on how, or if, you plan on finishing the wood.
A primary consideration for any woodworking project is choosing a type of wood that’s well suited to it. Most of the projects on the following pages were built with cedar, which is a good choice for exterior woodworking, since it is lightweight yet very durable. Besides its being naturally resistant to decay, the bugs don’t seem to like it. And if you choose to forgo a finish and let it weather, it will turn a silvery gray. Cedar is also a smooth wood, which makes it nice for seating. To save money, instead of buying clear cedar, you can purchase a slightly lesser grade and cut around the knots.
Other native woods that make good choices for outdoor projects include white oak, bald cypress, honey locust, and redwood, although you may not be able to find them in every region. When choosing wood, if in doubt, it’s always a good idea to consult with your local lumberyard representative.
The easiest and most environmentally friendly option is to use no finish and allow the wood to naturally weather. This option works best with woods such as cedar, redwood, and cypress, which tend to be more resistant to rot. Ipê, an exotic hardwood from South America that is increasingly being used for decking and wooden bridges, is exceptionally hard and fares quite well unpreserved. Still, the elements will eventually take a toll on any untreated wood. Sunlight alone causes wood to chemically degrade, and the cycle of absorbing moisture and drying out invariably produces cracks. Applying the right finish can help prolong the life and aesthetic appeal of outdoor woodworking projects.
Assuming you wish to keep the grain of the wood visible, you’ll want a clear preservative. Marine-grade varnishes yield the best results, effectively preventing the wood from cracking and preserving the brightness of the wood. Although widely used, polyurethanes and oils tend to be considerably less effective.
One Box, Four Different Colors, Four Different Looks
Instead of using a clear preservative to protect your window box, you may prefer to paint it. This opens dozens of design possibilities, and if you can’t make up your mind, you can easily change the color the next year — or the next season — for an entirely different look. You might want to paint the box the same color as your house or choose a complementary color. It’s just as important and as much fun to choose a color scheme that coordinates with the plants you are growing. For best results, be sure to use outdoor paint.
As with any trade, there are building techniques and tricks that make the job go more smoothly. Here are a few general pointers that will help ensure your woodworking experience is successful and pleasurable.
Consider custom cutting. Often, lumberyards will cut the wood you purchase to the lengths you want or, at a minimum, to lengths that are easier to transport home. Be aware that there may be a charge for this service.
Allow for saw waste. When laying out cutting lines on lumber, keep in mind that the saw will pulverize a blade’s width of wood with each cut. This means, for example, you won’t be able to cut four 2' lengths out of an 8' length; you’ll need to buy a little extra or size the project to accommodate standard lengths of lumber. Also, always cut on the “waste” side of the cutting line — don’t let the saw blade eat up any of the wood on the length you’ve just measured.
Allow for finished lumber size. Keep in mind, too, that common finished lumber is named by the size of the rough lumber, but by the time it is milled and planed to the finish boards you actually buy, it can be ¼" to ¾" smaller. A 2"×4", for example, actually measures 1½"×3½".
Predrill nail and screw holes. Whenever practical, it’s a good idea to predrill holes for screws and nails to minimize the chance that the wood will split and to make it easier to start them. To determine where to set nails and screws, generally you measure in half the distance of the wood thickness. For example, when fastening together two boards that are 1" thick, place the screws ½" inch in from the edge.
Mark up layouts. When laying out marks where one or more boards will attach to a series of parallel boards (such as where the pickets attach to the rails of a gate), rather than measuring and marking each of the parallel boards individually, mark one board. Then place the other boards up against the first, flushing up the ends, and use the markings as a guide for penciling markings onto the other boards. This minimizes the likelihood of measuring incorrectly, and it can save a lot of time.
Use a utility knife. Score a cutting line before you saw it. This will help avoid splintering and make for a more precise cut.
Round off edges. The edges of a piece of lumber, especially a length that is freshly cut, are often sharper than you may imagine. You can remedy this by rounding the edges. This can be done simply with a sanding block or a wood file. Another option is to bevel them with a wood plane or a chisel. And to round the edges on larger projects, such as outdoor furniture, a router fitted with a flush round-over bit comes in handy. In some cases, clipping the corners of boards (cutting them at a 45° angle), such as on the Berry Box (page 86), is an effective method and can also lend the project a decorative flair.
Countersink screws and bolts. Countersinking (fastening the screws or bolts so that the heads are flush with or just below the surface of the wood) allows you to keep the surface of your woodworking project smooth. To do this, you drill a shallow hole in the wood surface to suit the head (flat or tapered) where the screw goes. This is particularly important in locations where you don’t want the heads to protrude and be a hazard. Some screws, such as pan-head screws, have flat-bottomed heads and don’t need to be countersunk. The head of this style of screw presses down evenly on the wood, making a particularly strong joint.
