Chapter-1

“Wake up and smell the coffee!” Often tossed out as a good-natured nudge to dreamers, in reality the phrase could be a siren’s song to start the day.

Is there anything so satisfying as gradually surfacing from the depths of sleep to the soft light of day and catching a whiff of brewing coffee? Someone has been up ahead of you; coffee is made, and if you close your eyes and snuggle into the blankets just a bit longer, breakfast might be made, too.

The simplest breakfast of all is just a bowl of cold cereal or steaming hot oatmeal topped with fruit. But there’s an entire world of breakfast beyond the quick and practical.

You can break out the griddle, the mixing bowl, the flour, buttermilk, and eggs. You can spend some time gently whisking pancake batter, seeing it suddenly become creamy and smooth, watching it spread into a perfect round when it hits the griddle with a sharp sizzle, seeing it bubble, smelling the cakes—this is a pleasurable way to begin a morning.

Pancakes are only the start. There are waffles and French toast too, of course. And being bread bakers, we’ve found many interesting breads to soak in a milk-and-egg bath and sauté in butter. When we’re feeling even more ambitious, and have actually planned ahead, we might make crêpes, filling them with spinach and cheese when a hearty breakfast is in order, or cheese blintzes with fresh berries on top if we’re in the mood for something sweet and fruity.

Pancakes

Griddle cake or fry cake, flannel cake, flapjack, or hoe cake, the pancake—flour, milk, butter, a touch of leavening, and eggs, stirred together and cooked on a griddle—has long been a morning staple. An old tradition in England, where Pancake Tuesday is celebrated the day before Lent begins, and in Holland, where buckwheat is the grain of choice, pancakes take many forms around the world. Using everyday ingredients, easy to stir together and cook, pancakes are a wonderful go-to for both weekdays and weekends alike.

Why Should Pancake Batter Rest Before Using It?

Pancakes (like muffins) rely on both fat and gentle handling for their tenderness. Once flour is combined with a liquid, it forms a network of proteins that, if handled roughly (e.g., beaten vigorously) will become tough by bonding together. This toughness will evidence itself in a tendency to become rubbery. When making pancake batter, whisk together the dry ingredients, whisk together the wet ingredients in a separate bowl, then gently combine the two, stirring just until everything is moistened. Let the batter rest for 5 to 10 minutes, to allow the leavening to start working and to let the flour start absorbing the liquid. If you have the time, refrigerate the batter for an hour or so, which allows any lumps of flour to slowly dissolve and makes for a more fluffy, flavorful batter. When you’re ready to cook the pancakes, give the batter a quick stir and you’re good to go. (In recipes where you beat the egg whites separately and add them at the end, don’t beat and add them until the end of the batter’s resting period.) For ultra-tender pancakes or waffles, try using pastry flour.

Simply Perfect Pancakes

The name says it all: This is the go-to recipe to keep on hand for the ultimate pancake. To give them their subtle sweetness, you can use regular granulated sugar or malt powder. Malt is what sweetens most commercial pancake mixes and the pancakes you’ll find in many restaurants, diners, and hotels. If you’re after that typical “diner” taste, try malt instead of sugar.

Beat the eggs, milk, and vanilla until light and foamy, about 3 minutes at the high speed of a stand or hand mixer. Stir in the butter.

Whisk the dry ingredients together to evenly distribute the salt, baking powder, and sugar or malted milk powder. Gently and quickly mix into the egg / milk mixture. Let the batter relax while the griddle is heating (or overnight in the refrigerator). The batter will thicken slightly while resting.

Grease and preheat the griddle. The griddle is ready if a drop of water will skitter across the surface, evaporating immediately; if you have an electric griddle, set the temperature between 325°F and 350°F. Drop ¼ cupfuls of batter onto the lightly greased griddle. Cook on one side until bubbles begin to form and break, then turn the pancakes and cook the other side until brown. Turn over only once. Serve immediately.

Note: To make waffles, reduce the milk to 1 cup and 2 tablespoons, and increase the butter or oil to 5 tablespoons.

Buttermilk Pancakes

Light and fluffy, these classic buttermilk pancakes are eager to soak up the pools of melted butter and maple syrup required of the breakfast of (y)our dreams. The batter couldn’t be simpler to make—and if you’re like us, you’ll pop a pan of bacon into the oven to be ready as soon as the first batch of pancakes comes off the griddle.

In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt.

In a separate bowl or large measuring cup, whisk together the egg, buttermilk, melted butter or oil, and vanilla.

Pour the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients, stirring to combine. Stir until the mixture is fairly smooth; some small lumps are OK.

While the batter is resting, heat a large skillet over medium heat or preheat a griddle to 350°F, until the surface is hot enough for a droplet of water to skitter across it. Lightly grease the pan with butter or vegetable oil.

Spoon the batter, ¼ cup at a time, onto the hot surface; a scone and muffin scoop works well here.

Cook pancakes on the first side until bubbles form on the tops and the bottoms are brown, about 1 to 2 minutes. Flip and cook until the bottoms are brown, 1 to 2 minutes longer.

Leftover pancakes can be frozen the same day they’re made and reheated in a 250°F oven.

Gluten-Free Pancakes or Waffles

An easy route to pancakes and waffles for all! Designed to yield the same wonderful texture and flavor as conventional recipes, this one relies on gluten-free all-purpose flour to make buttery, fluffy pancakes or crisp, golden waffles. If you like extra-fluffy pancakes, allow the batter to rest for 15 minutes at room temperature before cooking.

4 tablespoons (57g) butter, melted, or vegetable oil (add 2 additional tablespoons [28g] butter or oil to make waffles)

In a separate bowl, whisk together the dry ingredients. Stir in the egg mixture.

To make the pancakes: Preheat the griddle to medium (350°F), greasing it lightly. Scoop the batter by ¼ cupfuls onto the griddle.

Cook pancakes for 1 to 2 minutes, until the tops lose their shine and bottoms are golden brown. Flip and cook for 1 to 2 minutes on the other side.

To make the waffles: Prepare the batter as directed, adding the extra fat; this will help make the waffles crisp. To cook, follow the directions that come with your waffle iron.

Zephyr Pancakes

These pancakes hail from the Midwest and are a true celebration of what dairy can do. They’re incredibly light and tender and literally melt in your mouth.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. In a separate bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, cream, buttermilk, melted butter, and vanilla, if using. Whisk the wet ingredients into the dry, just until combined—it’s OK if there are a few lumps.

Preheat and lightly grease a heavy skillet or griddle. Scoop the batter onto the griddle with a ¼ cup measure or a large spoon. Make sure the heat is slightly less than medium. The pancakes will puff up very high. When the first side is golden brown and the edges start to look dry, turn pancakes over to finish cooking the second side. Remove the pancakes from the griddle and keep them in a warm serving dish until you have enough to feed everyone.

Gingerbread Pancakes

These pancakes are a nice shortcut to enjoying warm gingerbread in minutes. All the things that team well with gingerbread make sense with these pancakes: warm applesauce, sliced peaches, or warm custard sauce. Naturally, some lightly sweetened whipped cream will only enhance this recipe.

In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, cornmeal, sugar, spices, salt, baking powder, baking soda, and the crystallized ginger, if using. In a separate bowl, mix together the oil, molasses, buttermilk, and egg. Add liquids to dry ingredients all at once, stirring until just combined.

Preheat a griddle and lightly grease it. Drop the batter, ¼ cup at a time, to make a 3½^″ pancake. Cook until the edges look dry and some of the bubbles that come to the surface break. Turn the pancakes over to finish cooking, then remove them from griddle to a warm serving dish.

Ricotta Soufflé Pancakes

We love to make these light, eggy pancakes when berries are in season, as they’re especially good garnished with fresh strawberries or blueberries. The pancakes are unusually airy and lofty, thanks to the addition of beaten egg whites. It’s worth the extra step—their ethereal texture sets them apart from all other pancakes.

In a medium bowl, beat together the egg yolks, buttermilk, sugar, and ricotta cheese. In a separate bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda, baking powder, lemon zest, nutmeg, and salt. In a third bowl, beat the egg whites until stiff but not dry. Mix the dry ingredients into the buttermilk mixture with a few quick strokes. A few lumps remaining are OK. Fold in the egg whites.

Heat a lightly greased griddle or skillet over medium heat until hot enough to evaporate a drop of water immediately. Drop the batter by ¼ cupfuls onto the heated griddle. Cook for about 2½ minutes on the first side; bubbles should rise and burst on the first side before you flip the pancakes. Cook for about 1 minute on the second side. They should be a very light golden brown when finished. The pancakes may be made a day ahead, cooled on a rack, then wrapped tightly and refrigerated. To reheat, preheat the oven to 375°F, place the pancakes on a lightly greased baking sheet, and heat for 5 minutes.

Lemon Puff Pancake

This is one of those magical recipes that’s much easier than it appears at first glance. A rather unattractive flour, milk, and egg batter is poured into a pan, and 20 minutes later emerges as a giant golden puff, awaiting a final anointing of lemon juice and sugar. It’s delicious; it’s easy; and who cares if it settles back a bit from its glorious oven-fresh heights as it cools? Part popover, part crêpe, part pancake, it combines the best aspects of all three.

Preheat the oven to 425°F. Lightly grease a 9^″ cast iron skillet, or 8^″ round cake pan. The size of the pan matters here, so measure carefully. Too small, it’ll overflow. Too large, it won’t puff as high.

Add the liquid ingredients to the dry ingredients, whisking until fairly smooth; a few small lumps are OK. Melt the remaining tablespoon of butter, stir it into the batter, and pour the batter into the pan.

Bake the pancake for 15 to 20 minutes, or until it’s puffed and golden, with deeper brown patches.

Remove it from the oven, and sprinkle with the lemon juice, then the sugar. Serve immediately.

Welsh Cakes

These cakes are a cross between a pancake and a baking powder biscuit, but much richer and sweeter. Sturdy enough to be eaten out of hand, they can be served plain, sprinkled with sugar, or spread with butter and smothered in jam. In addition, they’re excellent the next day, warmed in the toaster. Be sure to use currants rather than raisins, which are too large for these thin cakes.

In a medium bowl, sift together the flour, sugar, baking powder, nutmeg, and salt. Cut in the butter until the mixture is a coarse, even consistency. Add the currants, and then the egg and milk. Stir until the mixture forms a soft dough.

Divide the dough in half and, working with one half at a time (keep the other half covered and refrigerated), roll the dough into a circle ¼^″ thick. Using a biscuit cutter or other small (2½^″ to 3½^″) round cutter, cut circles of dough.

Heat an ungreased skillet over medium heat (an electric frying pan, set at 325°F, works well, too). Fry the cakes for about 2 minutes on the first side, and an additional 1½ minutes on the second, or until both sides are golden brown. As with pancakes, you’ll have to adjust the heat if you find the cakes are browned on the outside before they’re thoroughly cooked in the middle. Repeat with the remaining dough. Keep the cakes warm in a 200°F oven until ready to serve.

Homemade Whole Grain Pancake Mix

Just shy of 90% whole grain, these pancakes are absolutely delicious—sweet and nutty with the taste of oats and wheat. Keeping a batch of this homemade dry mix on hand means that you’re never far from a stack of warm pancakes made entirely from scratch.

To make the mix: Grind the oats in a food processor until they’re finely chopped, but not in a powder.

Put the oats, flours, and all other dry ingredients into a mixer with a paddle. Mix on slow speed and drizzle the vegetable oil into the bowl slowly while the mixer is running.

Store in an airtight container for up to two weeks at room temperature, or indefinitely in the refrigerator or freezer.

To make a batch of pancakes (5 to 8, depending on size): Whisk together 1 cup of mix, 1 cup of buttermilk, and 1 large egg. Don’t worry if it seems thin at first: the oats will soak up the milk, and the mix will thicken a bit as it stands.

Heat a lightly greased griddle to 350°F (if you’ve got a griddle with a temperature setting; if not, medium-hot will do).

Drop the batter onto it ¼ cup at a time (a jumbo cookie scoop works well here) to make a 4^″ diameter pancake.

When the edges look dry and bubbles come to the surface without breaking, turn the pancake over to finish cooking on the second side, which will take about 2 minutes.

Blini

These buckwheat pancakes are traditionally Russian and meant to be eaten at the pre-Lenten feast known as Maslenitsa, or “butter week” (which comes from the Russian word maslo, meaning butter). No meat was allowed during this week, thus the relish with which they consumed dairy products and fish, preferably caviar—which you’ll often see as a topping for blini along with sour cream. You can serve them any way you like, although good suggestions include melted butter, smoked salmon, capers, or jam for a sweet option.

To make the sponge: Mix all the ingredients together in a medium bowl, cover, and set aside. Depending on how much sour flavor you like in your blini, the sponge can ripen for a few hours, all day, or overnight, so plan ahead when preparing it. The more time you give it, the more tang you’ll taste.

To make the batter: Beat the egg yolks until light, then beat in the milk, sugar, and salt.

Blend the batter into the sponge and let it rest for 30 to 45 minutes. Set aside the egg whites and let them warm to room temperature.

Just before you’re ready to cook the blini, whisk the melted butter into the batter. Beat the egg whites until they form medium peaks and fold them into the batter. Use a heavy, well-seasoned cast iron griddle, if you have one. If not, use any heavy frying pan or griddle. Heat the pan over low to medium heat and wipe it with butter. (You shouldn’t need to grease the pan again once you start cooking.)

Pour 2 to 3 tablespoons batter onto the griddle for each blini. They should be about 4^″ in diameter. Cook them as you would pancakes, until bubbles appear that break and don’t fill in. Flip over and cook until lightly browned. These can be stacked on a warm plate in a warm oven until serving.

Waffles

Waffles are a step up from pancakes in looks, but often are essentially the same recipe in a different form. They take specialized equipment to produce—an iron—and generally look as if they take more effort, even if they really don’t. There are two basic styles of waffle: the relatively flat, baking powder–leavened waffle that’s usually shaped in squares, rounds, or hearts; and Belgian-style, a thicker, more deeply indented square waffle, often made with yeast. Belgian waffles are often seen accompanied by whipped cream and strawberries along with maple syrup and butter.

Pancakes vs. Waffles

The major difference between most pancake and waffle batters is that waffles need to have more fat in them than pancakes. Waffles without sufficient fat will remain somewhat flabby even when toasted to a dark brown; they also have a tendency to stick to the waffle iron. Pancakes are also more tolerant of having extras thrown in—a handful of blueberries, some cornmeal, slices of banana or strawberry. Waffles are usually prepared plain, with any additions served on top or alongside, because “add-ins” often prevent them from becoming crisp. Also, the ins and outs of the waffle grid are prone to stick to a slice of peach or a nugget of crystallized ginger.

Waffles weren’t always a breakfast food, and they haven’t always been served with a sweet topping. In the 1930s, waffle suppers consisting of waffles with a savory topping—most often creamed chicken—were standard entertainment. Lately fried chicken has taken the place of honor for this savory waffle combination.

Waffles elevate any meal—consider how you could even serve chocolate pecan waffles with ice cream and hot fudge sauce for a memorable dessert. Still, there are few breakfasts so satisfying as a crunchy yet tender waffle, butter melting into its crevices and gilded with syrup.

Help! My Waffles Stick to the Iron!

What a pain: digging stuck-on waffles out of the grids of your waffle iron. To avoid this particular challenge, make sure there’s some fat in the batter; fat not only will make waffles crisp on the outside and soft within, it will also help them separate from the iron.

Before spooning batter into the iron, make sure it’s thoroughly greased with vegetable oil or melted shortening applied with a pastry brush, or with nonstick vegetable oil spray. Finally, when the steaming slows down and you think the waffle is done, open the iron just a bit; if the waffle clings to the top grid, give it a gentle tug to see if it will let go. If not, try giving it a minute or so more in the closed iron. A waffle that’s not fully baked tends to stick.

Spoon in enough waffle batter to not quite fill all of the space, as shown. The batter will fill in the empty space when the top is lowered for baking.

Classic Buttermilk Waffles

When we think of brunch, we think of waffles. This recipe makes a plain waffle, crisp and golden, that’s perfect with maple syrup and butter or berries and whipped cream. When made with pastry flour, it will be extra crispy and light as air inside. When made with all-purpose flour, the waffle has a bit more body—still light, but chewier on the inside. Waffles are best consumed as soon as they’re baked, but in a pinch you can place them on a rack to cool, wrap tightly to store in the refrigerator, then reheat for 6 minutes in a 350°F oven. The optional pecan meal adds a nutty flavor.

8 tablespoons (1 stick, 113g) unsalted butter, melted and cooled to room temperature

2 cups (212g) unbleached pastry flour or 1¾ cups (210g) unbleached all-purpose flour

In a medium bowl, beat together the eggs, buttermilk, melted butter, and vanilla. In another bowl, whisk together the dry ingredients; combine the wet and dry ingredients just until smooth.

Spray the waffle iron with a nonstick cooking spray before preheating it. For an 8^″ round waffle iron, use about 1/3 cup batter. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until the iron stops steaming.

Why Buttermilk?

Many of our pancake and waffle recipes call for buttermilk rather than regular milk. The reason? The acidity in buttermilk tenderizes the gluten (protein) in flour, plus it works with baking soda better than plain milk by both neutralizing the flavor of the soda at the same time it is activating it, providing wonderful leavening. If you don’t have any on hand, make your own by mixing 1 cup of milk with 1 tablespoon vinegar or lemon juice and letting it sit for 10 to 15 minutes.

Crunchy Cornmeal Waffles

This recipe makes a very excellent crunchy cornmeal waffle for breakfast. We like the slight grit and texture that cornmeal adds; a stack of these doused in melted butter is pretty much perfect.

5 tablespoons (71g) unsalted butter, melted and cooled, or 1/3 cup (73g) vegetable oil

In a medium bowl, whisk together the buttermilk, eggs, and melted butter or oil. In a separate bowl, blend together the dry ingredients, then quickly and gently combine the wet and dry ingredients. Let the batter sit for 10 minutes to allow the cornmeal to soften.

Drop the batter by 2/3 cupfuls onto a hot waffle iron and bake until the waffle iron stops steaming.

Fudge Waffles

Is it a brownie in disguise or a waffle that took a wrong turn at breakfast and ended up on the dessert table? This indulgent breakfast recipe may have an identity problem, but you won’t have any problem when you serve it to your family or friends—they’ll enjoy every rich bite.

4 tablespoons (½ stick, 57g) butter, melted and cooled, or ¼ cup (50g) vegetable oil

In a large bowl, combine the eggs, butter or oil, and vanilla. Beat until light, about 2 minutes. Blend in buttermilk, then flour, sugar, cocoa, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and nutmeg. Gently fold in nuts and chocolate chips.

Bake waffles in a preheated, well-greased waffle iron until done (following directions for your own waffle iron). Waffles can be served immediately or wrapped tightly and served the next day. Warm them in a toaster oven if you wish.

Potato Waffles

Mashed potatoes give a wonderfully tender texture and earthy flavor to these waffles. If using leftover mashed potatoes that have already been well seasoned, cut back on the salt slightly.

4 tablespoons (½ stick, 57g) butter, melted, or 3 tablespoons (37g) vegetable oil

In a medium bowl, combine the potatoes, salt, egg yolks, and butter, mashing and mixing until lump-free. (A blender or food processor will do the job in a few seconds if your potatoes are very lumpy.) Beat in the buttermilk.

In a separate bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, chives, and crumbled bacon. Add these dry ingredients to the liquid mixture and mix quickly just until most of the lumps are incorporated.

Beat the egg whites until stiff but not dry, then fold them into the potato / flour mixture. Bake the waffles immediately (so they remain light). Waffles may be made ahead—immediately wrap the waffles tightly when cool, then reheat in a 375°F oven for approximately 5 minutes just before serving.

Pumpkin Praline Waffles

What is more warm and homey than the scent of baking pumpkin? These waffles are redolent of spices and would pair well with lightly sweetened whipped cream (but really, what wouldn’t?).

In a large bowl, combine flours, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and spices, stirring to mix. Stir in pumpkin, brown sugar, butter, and egg yolks. Add buttermilk and mix until thoroughly blended.

In a large bowl, beat the egg whites until stiff. Fold the whites into the batter and gently stir in pecans.

Scoop batter into a preheated waffle iron. Bake waffles until golden brown. Serve warm with butter and maple syrup, if you like.

Belgian-Style Yeast Waffles

This classic yeasted recipe produces waffles that are wonderfully crisp outside, and creamy and moist inside. Even when cooling, they retain their wonderful texture. But don’t worry, their flavor is so delightful they won’t spend much time on the serving plate! You can choose to prepare the batter for these waffles and cook it after an hour, but we prefer to let the batter rest overnight in the fridge, where it develops a real yeasty and rich depth of flavor. If you aren’t fond of a slightly fermented, sourdough-like flavor, just add 1½ teaspoons of baking powder to the recipe (in addition to the yeast), and cook after just a 30-minute rest; don’t refrigerate overnight.

Combine all the ingredients in a large bowl, leaving room for expansion; the mixture will bubble and grow.

Cover with plastic wrap and let rest at room temperature for 1 hour; the mixture will begin to bubble. You can cook the waffles at this point or refrigerate the batter overnight to cook waffles the next day.

Preheat your waffle iron. Spray with nonstick vegetable oil spray, and pour 2/3 to ¾ cup batter (or the amount recommended by the manufacturer) onto the center of the iron. Close the lid and bake for the recommended amount of time, until the waffle is golden brown, about 5 to 6 minutes on a standard 7^″ Belgian-style (deep-pocket) waffle iron.

French Toast

French toast, true to its name, originated in France, where it is called pain perdu (“lost bread”), as it’s made with leftover stale bread. You’ll find some variation on the theme in many culinary cultures; after all, what could be a simpler combination than bread, milk, and eggs?

This is an instance of the sum being more than its parts; French toast is up there with some of the true classic comfort foods. Soft, moist bread with a thin layer of hot butter-crisped crust, just begging for an application of more butter, and syrup—we can’t imagine anyone but the most curmudgeonly culinary snob not entertaining a lifelong love affair with French toast.

French toast is customarily made with plain white bread, though there are those who swear by day-old challah or whole grain breads and those who think French toast made with cinnamon raisin bread is just about as close to breakfast heaven as you can get. There are two basic methods used to prepare French toast: the typical soak and sauté or the technique of cutting the bread thicker (or layering two slices and stuffing it with a filling), laying it in a pan, pouring the soaking liquid over it, and letting it rest overnight before baking in the oven. This “French toast” is closer to a strata, but, nomenclature aside, it does taste wonderful.

Finally, did you know that you can make French toast in a waffle iron? After the bread has been soaked in egg and milk (or, even better, cream or melted vanilla ice cream), simply place the slice of bread in your square waffle iron. The result is an interesting combination of two breakfast favorites.

Rich French Toast

When we tested this recipe, it was met with universal acclaim. The difference between this and ordinary French toast is the quality of the ingredients. Start with a high-rising, white bread—be sure it’s slightly stale, otherwise it will fall apart in the batter. Slice it thick; we found 5/8^″ just about right. Bathe it in nutmeg- and rum-accented cream. Sauté it gently in butter then serve it on warmed plates with sifted sugar and maple syrup. Crispy on the outside, toothsome yet tender within, this is the French toast of which dreams are made.

Preheat the oven to 250°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or grease it generously and set aside.

Place the butter and vegetable oil in a heavy skillet and set it over medium heat.

In a small bowl, whisk together the eggs, cream, salt, nutmeg, rum, and vanilla. Stir until smooth but not foamy. Pour the batter into a shallow casserole dish large enough to hold two pieces of bread snugly.

Place two pieces of bread in the soaking dish, turn them over, and turn them over again. The entire process should take about 15 seconds; you want the bread to absorb some of the liquid but not to become thoroughly saturated.

Place the bread in the skillet and fry it for 3 minutes before turning. Turn the bread; it should be golden brown. If not, raise the burner heat slightly. Fry the bread on the second side for about 2 minutes. Again, it should be golden brown. Transfer the French toast to the baking sheet and place it in the preheated oven. Allow it to remain in the oven while you cook the remaining pieces.

When all the pieces are cooked, serve the French toast on heated plates, dusting it with confectioners’ sugar, if you like.

Banana Bread French Toast

Banana bread gets new life in this decadent and unique version of French toast, which works equally well for breakfast or the warm base for a scoop of vanilla ice cream as dessert. The flavors of banana and coconut are a natural together. The eggnog gives it an extra kick—because why not?

1 cup (254g) eggnog or 1 cup (227g) half-and-half mixed with 2 teaspoons dark rum

Whisk together the eggs, eggnog (or half-and-half with rum), and nutmeg until smooth. Pour the batter into a shallow pan or bowl with a flat bottom. In a separate shallow dish, pour out the coconut. Slice the banana bread.

Heat the griddle to medium, until a piece of butter swirled on top of it bubbles. Put the slices of banana bread into the batter, let them sit for 30 seconds, then turn them over. You may want to have a slotted spatula handy to lift them out of the batter once they become soaked through. Let the excess batter drip off the bread, then place the bread onto the coconut. Turn over, then transfer coated bread onto griddle. Turn down the heat to medium low and let the French toast cook for 2 to 3 minutes on the first side. Turn over to finish cooking on the second side, then transfer to a heated plate or serving platter to keep warm. Serve with syrup or ice cream, as you prefer.

Stuffed French Toast

Stuffed French toast—a “casserole” made from layers of bread, cream cheese, and strawberry jam, moistened with egg and milk, and baked to soft yet crisp perfection—is a breakfast everyone clamors for. You can fill the French toast and make up the custard in advance, then dip and bake when you’re ready to go. Spread the filling on the slice of bread about ¼^″ thick, then top with the second slice of bread. Wrap and keep in the refrigerator until you’re ready to bake.

First, select the pan you want to use, one that best fits the size of your bread slices. (We like to use a 9^{̋ x}13^″ pan, and cut some of the slices as needed to fit the pan.) The point is to try to leave the bread as intact as possible, as lifting out and serving whole pieces is nicer than dealing with smaller pieces. Lightly grease the pan, preferably with butter.

In a small bowl, beat the cream cheese until soft, then blend in the remaining filling ingredients. Spread 6 slices of bread with the filling, top them with the remaining 6 slices, and lay these “sandwiches” in the pan, cutting to fit as necessary.

In a medium bowl, blend together the custard ingredients and pour the mixture over the bread in the pan. Let it sit for 30 minutes total, so the bread can soak up the custard.

Sprinkle freshly grated nutmeg atop the French toast and bake it for about 20 minutes. Turn over the pieces and bake for another 20 minutes, until the bread is puffy and lightly browned. Transfer the French toast to individual plates and serve it warm, with maple syrup, if you like.

Crêpes

Crêpes, a thinner, larger, unleavened version of pancakes, are a staple street food in Paris, where they were born. There, vendors with pushcarts and special large, flat crêpe irons make crêpes that are a full 12^″ in diameter. Spread with the customer’s choice of filling (ranging from simple butter and sugar to ham and cheese to hazelnut-scented chocolate), the crêpes are folded for ease of handling and eaten with gusto.

In the ’50s, versions such as crêpes suzette were the star of many a flamboyant restaurant dessert finale, lit brandy adding an element of excitement to what might otherwise have been perceived as simply pancakes with orange sauce.

Happily, crêpes are easy to find now, and even easier to make at home. Fill them with meat, cheese, or scrambled eggs for a savory breakfast, or serve them blintz-style with a rich creamy cheese filling and a topping of sour cream and fruit. However you choose to serve them, they’re suitable for making ahead, then assembling and heating just before serving.

Parisian Street Vendor Crêpes

In Paris, they sell these delicate crêpes on the street in huge circles—big enough for a real meal and a half. You can use any size pan you like, however. Crêpe batter is a cinch to make. You just need to prepare it far enough ahead so it can sit at room temperature for an hour or so. This resting time really changes the nature of the batter and makes for a much better crêpe. You can easily cut the recipe in half, or make the whole recipe and freeze the extra crêpes for later.

In a large bowl, combine the flour and salt. In a medium bowl, beat together the milk and eggs. Make a well in the flour mixture and pour in about half the liquid mixture. Blend well, then add the remaining liquid and stir until fairly smooth; a few lumps can remain. Stir in the butter. Cover and let sit for at least 1 hour.

The best thing to cook these crêpes in is a 10^″ cast iron pan (or, for smaller crêpes, a neat little crêpe pan). Heat the pan until it’s medium hot. Wipe the bottom of the pan with a bit of butter. Pour a scant 1/3 cup of batter into the bottom of the pan, pick up the pan, and tip it in a circle so the batter covers the bottom of the pan. Cook until the bottom begins to brown and you can slide a spatula under the crêpe. Cook briefly on the other side and place on a warm plate. Cover until the remaining batter is cooked.

1. Tilt the pan toward yourself at a 45º angle while you pour the batter on it. Tilt the pan from side to side to finish covering the surface.

2. The crêpe is ready to flip when the top looks dry and the edges are just beginning to curl. Don’t let it take on a lot of color.

To make the filling: This can be anything from sliced ham and cheese to butter sprinkled with sugar with (or without) a bit of Cointreau. A Parisian favorite is crêpes lightly smeared with chocolate hazelnut paste. After that, diced banana goes on top. The crêpes can be folded in quarters to eat on a plate, or rolled, burrito-style, for a walk-around snack.

Nutrition information per serving: 1 crêpe with 1 tablespoon Nutella and 1 banana, 207g

Savory Spinach-Filled Crêpes

Breakfast isn’t always sweet, and crêpes don’t have to be either. They’re the perfect canvas for a savory filling. The following filling, made with spinach and mushrooms, is excellent for crêpes either rolled, folded, or used to make two crêpe cakes (see variation below).

3 pounds (1.36kg) fresh spinach, stemmed and chopped, or three 10-ounce packages (284g) frozen chopped spinach, thawed and drained

In a large pan, heat the oil and sauté the mushrooms, onions, and ham, if using, until the liquid has cooked off. Add the chopped spinach, stir quickly, then cover the pan and cook just until the spinach has wilted. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Melt the butter in a small saucepan. Add the flour and cook, stirring constantly, until the flour is golden. While whisking, add the milk a little at a time. Bring to a boil and cook until it’s thickened; add salt and pepper to taste. Remove from the heat and cool for 15 minutes, then stir together the cream sauce, spinach mixture, and eggs. Use this mixture to fill crêpes (see page 24). You can sauté them in butter until heated through, or place in a buttered baking dish, sprinkle with grated cheese, and bake them in a preheated 350°F oven for 20 minutes.

To make crêpe cakes: Place one unrolled, unfilled crêpe in the bottom of a lightly greased 8^″ or 9^″ round cake pan. Fan 5 crêpes around the perimeter of the pan, allowing about a quarter of each crêpe to overlap the one next to it. Spread half the filling evenly over the crêpes and fold in the edges. Place 1 crêpe on top. Repeat with the remaining crêpes and filling in another lightly greased 8^″ or 9^″ round cake pan.

Brush the top crêpe in each pan with melted butter or oil and bake the cakes in a preheated 350°F oven for 35 to 40 minutes, until the tops are slightly brown and crisp. Let the cakes sit for 10 minutes before cutting them into wedges. Serve hot.

Cheese Blintzes

A thin, buttery crêpe, wrapped around a mild, smooth, ricotta- or cottage cheese–based filling, is a wonderful base for the spoonful of fruit sauce that completes this dish.

This recipe may be made ahead, either in total or in part. The crêpes may be cooked, cooled completely, then stacked, wrapped well, and either refrigerated or frozen. Stuff them one day ahead, then hold in the refrigerator overnight; or stuff and freeze for up to a month.

We offer two types of filling: a creamy ricotta filling, slightly runny when baked, and a firmer, less sweet, more traditional filling. Serve with blueberry compote (see recipe on page 28).

In a medium bowl, whisk together everything to make a smooth batter. Place the batter in the refrigerator for 1 hour or longer, to relax the gluten.

Heat an 8^″ (or slightly larger) crêpe or omelet pan until a drop of water skips across the pan. Lightly grease the pan and pour a scant ¼ cupful of batter into the middle. Tilt the pan and swirl the batter to completely coat the bottom with batter (see illustration on page 24). Cook until the crêpe is opaque and set. Transfer the crêpes, uncooked side down, to a baking sheet or rack to cool. You cook the crêpes on only one side; this is sufficient to cook them all the way through. When you stack them, stack them “uncooked” side down, so that this side will be on the outside when you roll them.

In a medium bowl, beat the cream cheese until soft. Add the beaten egg a bit at a time, beating until smooth after each addition and scraping the sides of the bowl often. Add the lemon zest, vanilla extract, salt, and sugar and mix until well combined. Fold in the ricotta cheese.

Place the cottage cheese and ricotta cheese in a colander lined with cheesecloth, or in a yogurt cheese maker. Let them drain for 1½ to 2 hours, pressing down lightly occasionally.

For a smoother, creamier filling, blend all the ingredients in a food processor. For a more traditional, grainier filling, simply mash the cottage cheese with a fork and stir in the remaining ingredients.

To assemble: Use approximately 3 rounded tablespoons filling for each 8^″ crêpe. Place the filling about 2^″ from the top of the crêpe, fold the sides in, fold the top down, then loosely roll the crêpe into a log.

Heat a medium frying pan and melt about 2 tablespoons of butter in it until it’s sizzling. Sauté the blintzes until they’re lightly browned and heated through.

Alternatively, nestle the blintzes in a buttered 9^{̋ x}13^″ pan and bake them in a preheated 350°F oven for 25 to 30 minutes or until they’re thoroughly heated.

Nutrition information per serving: 2 blintzes filled with creamy ricotta filling, 188g

Nutrition information per serving: 2 blintzes filled with traditional filling, 220g

In a medium saucepan, whisk together the sugar, cornstarch, and cold water or fruit juice. Add the remaining ingredients, except the blueberries, then bring the mixture to a boil over medium heat, stirring constantly; this will take only a few minutes. Remove the mixture from the heat and cool it to lukewarm. Stir in the fresh or frozen blueberries just before serving.

Why Do Popovers Pop?

Popovers are one of the few baked goods that rise from eggs and steam rather than from a leavener or yeast. Popover batter has a larger proportion of liquid to flour than most other baked goods. It’s the steam created by the liquid in the batter that raises popovers to their astounding heights.

The protein in the eggs and flour combine to form a matrix that’s soft enough to expand with the steam but strong enough to contain it. We’ve had our most consistent results with popovers when we made them using all-purpose flour (with at least 11.7 percent protein), rather than a lower-protein pastry flour, which you might be inclined to use for tenderness. Popovers will expand until their crust finally hardens.

When you remove them from the oven, pierce them with the tip of a knife, so any leftover steam can escape quickly. This keeps the popovers from becoming soggy.

Popovers

We like the following recipe because it’s easily made, doesn’t require a popover pan (although they are helpful), and makes an even dozen popovers. A teaspoon of dried mixed herbs is optional.

Place all the ingredients in a blender in the order indicated above. Blend for 30 seconds, stopping midway through to scrape down the sides of the blender. Allow the batter to rest for 15 minutes.

Thoroughly grease 12 muffin cups (or 6 popover or 12 mini-popover cups). Be sure to grease the area around the cups as well as the cups themselves. Fill the cups about two-thirds full with the batter. Bake for 20 minutes, then reduce the oven to 350ºF and bake for an additional 10 minutes. Resist the urge to open the oven door at any time during this process. Remove the baked popovers from the oven, pierce the tops with a knife, and allow them to cool in the pan for 5 minutes. Then gently turn them out of the pan onto a rack. Serve warm.

Coffeecakes

Coffeecake is good anytime, but we often save it for the weekend, when you actually have the time to bake a cake and sit down to enjoy it. Open the Sunday paper and serve yourself a square of cake from the corner, where big, sweet nuggets of streusel gather and melt.

No-Fuss Coffeecake

The name of this coffeecake comes from the convenience of assembling it the day before baking. If you can’t wait, by all means make and bake it right away; it’s wonderful either way. Topped with nuts, cinnamon sugar, and chocolate chips, it’s your ticket to a luxurious morning.

Lightly grease a 9^{̋ x}13^″ metal pan (if using a glass or stoneware pan, add at least 10 minutes to the baking time).

To make the cake: In a large bowl, beat together the butter, sugars, baking powder, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, and vanilla, mixing until smooth. Add the eggs, one at a time, mixing until each is absorbed before adding the next.

Scrape down the bowl and add the flour, alternating with the sour cream until both are incorporated. Scrape the bowl again and mix for 30 seconds more. Transfer the batter to the prepared pan and smooth the top.

To make the topping: Combine the brown sugar, cinnamon, nuts, and chips. Sprinkle over the batter. If desired, cover the pan and refrigerate overnight to bake the next morning.

If baking right away, preheat the oven to 350°F and bake for 35 to 40 minutes, or until a cake tester or toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. If the cake was refrigerated overnight, uncover and bake for 40 to 45 minutes in a preheated 350°F oven. Remove from the oven and let cool on a rack before serving.

Store leftovers covered on the counter for up to 3 days; freeze for longer storage.

Our Favorite Sour Cream Coffeecake

This tender cake is both filled and topped with cinnamon sugar. Sour cream adds tenderness and flavor to any baked good, and this breakfast cake is no exception. It’s called “our favorite” for good reason!

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease and flour a 9½^″ tube pan or a 9^″ square pan.

To make the cake: Beat together the butter, sugar, and eggs. In a separate bowl, mix together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt.

Add the flour mixture to the butter mixture alternately with the sour cream or yogurt, stirring after each addition.

To make the topping: Stir together the topping ingredients until evenly crumbly.

Spread half the batter in the pan, and sprinkle with half the topping mixture. Repeat with the remaining batter and topping.

Bake the coffeecake for 30 to 40 minutes, or until a cake tester or toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, or with just a few moist crumbs sticking to it. Glass pans may take an additional 5 to 10 minutes to bake through completely.

Remove the cake from the oven; if you’ve baked it in a tube pan, wait 10 minutes, loosen the edges, and carefully turn it out of the pan. Place the cake right-side up (topping up) on a plate to serve. If you’ve baked the cake in a 9^″ square pan, just serve it right from the pan. Serve the cake warm or at room temperature.

Cranberry Almond Coffeecake

Although it’s especially ideal for making use of leftover cranberry sauce on the day after Thanksgiving, this cake is a beloved part of our baking repertoire all year long. Cranberries add a nice tartness to the sweetness of the cake, as well as a beautiful jewel-toned color.

In a large bowl, cream together the butter and sugar. Beat in the eggs, buttermilk, and almond extract. In a separate bowl, mix together the baking powder, baking soda, flour, and salt. Add all at once to the wet ingredients, stirring just to blend.

Grease and flour a 9^″ or 10^″ tube pan. Spoon half the batter into the pan. Spread half the cranberry sauce evenly atop the batter, then spread the remaining batter over that. Top with the remaining cranberry sauce and sprinkle toasted almonds evenly over the sauce.

Bake the coffeecake for 55 minutes, or until a cake tester or toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Remove it from the oven and cool it in the pan for 5 minutes.

While the cake is cooling, make the glaze by whisking together all the glaze ingredients. Turn the cake out of the pan and drizzle the glaze over the warm cake. Let the cake cool completely before serving (or serve it warm if you don’t mind it crumbling a bit).

Crumb Coffeecake

Two 8^″ round cakes, one 9^″ × 13^″ cake, or one 9^″ or 10^″ Bundt cake

This coffeecake is the culmination of a longtime quest to recapture a certain kind of moist, pick-up-with-one-finger, clean-the-plate-coffeecake crumb. After a lot of trial and error, we discovered what was missing was a simple technique: to melt the butter before combining it with the sugar and flour. It made all the difference. This coffeecake is downright irresistible.

To make the crumb: In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, salt, and cinnamon. Melt the butter in the microwave or small saucepan and add the extracts to it. Pour the butter into the flour mixture and mix until all the butter is absorbed and you have a uniformly moistened crumb mixture. Set aside.

To make the batter: In a large mixing bowl, cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time, and beat between additions. Scrape down the mixing bowl, then beat in the vanilla and sour cream. In a medium bowl, whisk the flour, baking soda, salt, and baking powder together. Add to the butter / sour cream mixture, mixing until evenly combined. Pour the batter into the greased baking pan(s). Crumble the crumb mixture over the top, until the batter is completely covered. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes for 8^″ rounds, 30 to 35 minutes for a 9^{̋ x}13^″ pan, or 35 to 40 minutes for a tube pan, until a cake tester or toothpick comes out clean. Remove the cake from the oven and cool on a rack; dust with confectioners’ sugar, if desired.

Blueberry Buckle Coffeecake

Not actually a buckle at all, this recipe has been a classic for years: moist, easy to make, and liberally studded with juicy berries. It’s the perfect way to make use of summer fruit.

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Lightly grease an 8^″ square, 9^″ square, or 9^″ round cake pan. If you use an 8^″ square pan or round pan, make sure it’s at least 2^″ deep.

To make the streusel topping: In a small bowl, mix the sugar, flour, cinnamon, and salt. Cut or rub in the butter with the side of a fork, two knives, or your fingertips until it reaches a crumbly state. Set aside.

To make the cake: In a medium bowl, blend the flour, baking powder, and salt together. In a large bowl, beat together the sugar, butter, egg, and vanilla.

Alternately add the milk and the flour mixture to the sugar / butter mixture, ending with flour. Add blueberries. Stir only enough to blend.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Sprinkle the streusel topping over the batter.

Bake the cake for 40 to 45 minutes, or until a cake tester or toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean.

Remove the cake from the oven and set it on a rack to cool for 10 minutes. Serve right from the pan, or transfer to a serving dish by loosening the sides with a knife or spatula and gently tipping the cake out into one of your hands and setting it onto the dish.

—CHAPTER ONE—