—CHAPTER NINE—

Pies and Tarts

Ah, pie! Flaky crust surrounding any manner of enticing fillings—from juicy berry to spiced apple to hearty vegetables and cheese—is one of the very nicest pleasures to be had. Add a scoop of vanilla ice cream to a fruit pie and we challenge you to come up with a more apt definition of bliss. This combination of a sweet or savory filling encased in a pastry crust has been a part of the world’s culinary landscape for centuries. From the first written formula for a goat cheese and honey pie in a rye crust, published in Roman times, to the traditional meat-based pies in fourteenth-century Europe, pies have figured prominently in history. The pies baked by America’s Pennsylvania Dutch heralded the shift toward sweet pies with their sweetened fruit fillings enclosed in a crisp crust. In the time since, pie has remained a steady companion of home bakers.

Though to some the phrase “easy as pie” might seem counterintuitive, it’s not. Achieving a crisp and light pastry, with no soggy bottom, is an acquired skill, but a very doable task. And we believe it’s one well worth learning. You can’t just stir the ingredients together willy-nilly and expect to get great results. You’ll need to consider the proportions of flour to fat to liquid, and practice and perfect your technique for rolling the dough. What’s more, the baking time and temperature, as well as the pan you use, will help you achieve a crisp, golden crust.

A Pie Primer

Recipes for basic pie crust call for flour, fat, salt, and water; some add eggs, sugar, flavoring, vinegar, lemon juice, or buttermilk. The basic ratio (according to our grandmothers and the Culinary Institute of America) is 3:2:1—3 parts flour, 2 parts fat, and 1 part water. That ratio makes a very rich, tender crust.

Let’s look at the ingredients, and how they interact in crust; this will help you decide which ingredients and method to use for the type of crust you prefer.

Flour

The best pie crust is made with a flour whose protein level is medium to low, 11% or lower. For pie-making purposes, the protein level indicates the amount of gluten, and in pie crust, the more developed the gluten, the tougher the pie crust. (You do need some gluten, in order for the crust to hold together.) Using equal parts unbleached all-purpose and pastry flours creates a crust that’s easy to roll out, with enough structure to make it comfortable to move around. A crust made with only pastry flour will be very delicate and quite challenging to roll out, tending to crumble when you transfer it to the pie pan. An excellent crust can be made with only all-purpose flour, but good technique is critical so as not to over-develop the gluten. Crusts made with the all-purpose / pastry flour combination are tender but still easy to handle.

Salt

Salt plays two roles in pie crust. First, and most important, it adds flavor. Like bread made without salt, pie crust made without salt will be flat-tasting. Second, it firms up the gluten in the crust ever so slightly, making the dough easier to handle.

Because the salt-to-flour ratio in pie crust must be fairly exact for best flavor, we stick with table salt since its finer grains disperse more efficiently in the dough. Kosher or other large-flake granulations won’t measure the same.

Sugar

Sugar may be added to pie crust dough for flavor and browning. The amount is usually about 1 tablespoon (12g) for 3 cups (360g) of flour. We’ve tested pie crusts side by side, using 1 tablespoon of sugar in one and none in the other. Truthfully, there was very little difference in browning, tenderness, crispness, or flavor. In our opinion, the amount of sugar used in most pie crust recipes is so small that it doesn’t have a significant impact on texture, so use it if you like.

Buttermilk, Vinegar, or Lemon Juice

These liquids are often added to pie crusts because acids break down protein in the flour, so they’ll help keep the crust tender, even if it’s overworked a bit. Using a tablespoon of vinegar or lemon juice in the liquid for your dough will keep it from oxidizing and turning gray if you need to chill it in the refrigerator for up to 36 hours (any longer than that you should freeze the dough). In addition, adding dried buttermilk powder to a crust enhances its flavor.

Eggs or Egg Yolks

Whole eggs add protein, water, and fat to pie crust dough, along with color and flavor. Adding a lightly beaten egg as part of the crust’s liquid will give you a sturdier crust without making it tough (this is desirable for a freestanding savory pie, for example). It will also enhance browning and texture. Adding just the yolk adds mostly fat, which will make a more golden, tender crust.

Fat

In our opinion, the fat you choose has the biggest influence on a pie crust. Fat plays two roles. The first is to coat the flour, thereby inhibiting the gluten development and creating tenderness. The water in a crust creates enough gluten to keep the crust together. The second role of fat is to create flakiness. By leaving some of the fat in larger pieces, it serves to separate the long strings of gluten. When flour and fat are formed in layers, the fat melts in the oven as the crust bakes, creating distinct layers in the cooked dough. When butter is part of the fat, the water in the solid butter turns to steam, creating even more flakiness.

Butter is a more brittle fat than lard or vegetable shortening. It’s harder when cold and becomes softer and can separate when warmed to room temperature, so everything must be kept cool when working with butter. If the butter is overworked and warm, the water in it can leach out into the flour, making the crust tougher and leaving less in suspension to make steam (and flakiness) in the oven. Butter is also only about 81% fat, so you may need to use more butter and less water if substituting butter for lard or vegetable shortening in a recipe. Butter has the most pleasing flavor; the milk solids in it taste wonderful when fully baked and caramelized in pie crust.

Vegetable shortening has no water and keeps a consistent texture over a wide temperature range, making it easy to work with. It also makes a tender crust, as long as the dough isn’t overworked. Using half shortening and half butter is a good place to start for beginning pie bakers; the shortening should be worked in first, to coat the flour, and the butter cut in after, left in larger, dime-size chunks.

Chill the Dough

Why do so many pie recipes tell you to chill the dough, find a cool surface on which to roll it, and use a rolling pin that’s been placed in the freezer?

Because fat doesn’t like heat; it melts and loses one of its main attributes, a just-right melting point in the oven. When you combine fat, flour, and a little water, the gluten in the flour is activated and strands start to form. If you don’t handle the dough too much, the gluten will form shorter strands—enough to hold the crust together, but not so developed that the crust becomes hard when baked. Minute chunks of butter or fat separate these strands, preventing them from joining together. Once put into a hot oven, these strands quickly cook and retain their shape—with the fat holding them in place just until they’re sturdy enough, at which time the fat melts, lending its flavor and tenderness to the dough. The result? Flaky pastry.

By the way, after you place your rolled-out crust into the pie pan, it never hurts to put it into the refrigerator or freezer while you’re preparing the filling. Any fat that’s beginning to get too warm and soft will firm right up again, and the gluten will have a chance to relax, which means the crust will shrink less as it cooks.

Salted vs. Unsalted Butter

All our pie recipes, as well as the other recipes in this book, assume the baker will use unsalted butter. Because salt can mask “off” flavors in butter, grocers like to fill their dairy case with salted butter, as it will seem fresh longer. If you buy unsalted butter, you’ll have a better chance of getting a fresher product. In addition, we prefer to balance the salt-flour ratio in pie crust ourselves, rather than have to deal with the additional salt (¼ teaspoon salt per 113g butter) in salted butter.

We prefer, for reasons of taste and texture, to make pie crust with half butter and half vegetable shortening or lard. However, each to their own: A crust made with 100% shortening (or butter) is perfectly acceptable.

Lard was routinely used in decades past; it was an integral part of the farm economy, which used all parts of the pig. When rendered and cooled, it has large crystals that create tender, flaky crusts. Commercially available lard is usually hydrogenated, which increases shelf life but also adds trans fats. If you have access to locally produced fresh lard from a local butcher, it’s wonderful to work with. We don’t recommend using hydrogenated lard.

Water

Water binds the pie crust dough, activating its gluten so it holds together. In order to keep the fat as cold and solid as possible (for the best flaky crust), we recommend using ice water. Water is another element that needs to be precisely balanced in pie crust dough: too much, and you have a sticky, unrollable mess; too little, and the crust won’t hold together or will crack around the edges as you roll it. Practice: Your hands are the great teachers here; the more frequently you make crust, the better you’ll be at recognizing exactly what it should look and feel like before rolling.

There are a number of different types of crust within reach of the home baker. The three major types of basic pie crust—medium-flake, long-flake, and short-flake—all contain the same ingredients. The way the shortening and flour are combined gives each crust its name and characteristics. When you break a medium-flake pie crust with your fingers, it separates into flakes rather than breaking “clean.” A long-flake crust breaks into larger flakes, almost shattering. A crust that breaks clean is called a short-flake crust or “short crust;” it’s crisp and sandy-textured, rather than flaky. A French crust made this way is called pâte brisée; when it’s sweetened, it becomes pâte sablée. We’ll examine the most popular of all—medium-flake crust—and will then go on to show variations for short-flake and long-flake crusts.

Basic Pie Crust

One 9^″ double pie crust

2½ cups (300g) unbleached all-purpose flour, pastry flour, or a combination of both

1¼ teaspoons salt

10 tablespoons (142g) unsalted butter or vegetable shortening (113g), cold

6 to 10 tablespoons (85g to 142g) ice water

Medium-Flake Method

Mix Dry Ingredients. Whisk together the flour and salt in a bowl large enough that you’ll be able to plunge both hands in to work with the dough.

Cut in Half of the Fat, Combining Thoroughly. The mixture should form very small, very even crumbs. If using a single type of fat, cut half of it into the flour. If using our recommended combination of shortening and butter, cut all the shortening into the flour and reserve the butter.

“Cutting the fat into the flour” simply means combining them. This first portion of the fat is worked into the flour to ensure tenderness. The pieces of cold butter or shortening should be combined until quite small: The mixture should be evenly crumbly, like coarse beach sand.

This can be done by plunging your hands into the bowl and working the pieces of fat with the flour, or you can use a pastry fork or pastry blender.

Cut in Remaining Fat. Cut or pinch the remaining fat into pats. Toss the chunks of fat into the flour mixture, mixing just enough to coat them with flour. Work in the fat by pinching it into flat shards with your fingers, or cut in lightly with a pastry cutter. Leave some larger chunks of fat intact along with the smaller ones. Combining flour with half the fat thoroughly, then combining with the remaining fat and leaving large chunks (pea-size, or even larger) will yield a medium-flake crust.

Add Water. Add the water, a tablespoon at a time, and toss with a fork to moisten the dough evenly. To test for the right amount of liquid, use your hands to squeeze a chunk of it together. If it sticks together easily, it’s moist enough. If it falls apart, add a bit more water. When you’re sprinkling water on the flour and fat mixture and tossing it around, keep grabbing small handfuls; the mixture should feel damp but not soggy. When the dough barely sticks together, add 1 more tablespoon (14g) of water. This should be just the right amount to yield a dough that’s soft enough to roll nicely without cracking, but not so soft that it sticks to the counter and rolling pin.

Turn Out Dough and Fold. Turn out the dough onto a piece of parchment. Use the paper to fold the dough in thirds like a business letter to bring it together. If necessary, use a spray bottle to spritz any dry crumbly spots with cold water and fold in thirds once again. Divide the dough in half, pat into flat disks about an inch thick, wrap both halves, and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. This lets the flour hydrate while relaxing its gluten before rolling it out, which means easier rolling and no cracked edges.

Roll Out the Dough. Flour your work surface—counter, tabletop, pastry board, or marble slab. Unwrap one piece of dough and put it on the floured surface. Whichever size pie you’re making, you’ll want to roll the crust to a diameter about 3^″ to 4^″ greater than the inside diameter of the pan. For example, for a 9^″ pie pan, roll the crust to a 12^″ to 13^″ diameter. When rolling pie crust, be forceful but make it brief; the best pie crust is rolled from the center outward (to make an evenly round crust), with as few strokes as possible being used to stretch the crust to its desired size. Roll in only one direction, not back and forth. Pick up the crust with a giant or offset spatula and dust underneath it with flour from time to time, to keep it moving freely on the counter and under your rolling pin.

If the bottom crust cracks around the edges, it can be patched and will be hidden by the filling. If it’s the top crust, just roll it large enough so the cracks extend to the edge, where they will disappear when you seal the top and bottom crusts.

Some recipes diverge from the typical 9^″ pan to ones that are slightly larger or smaller. If you’re making an 8^″ pie, assume you’ll have some dough left over; you can use it to decorate the top of the pie, or cut it in squares or other shapes, sprinkle it with cinnamon sugar, and bake it for 6 to 8 minutes along with the pie (watch carefully, as it’ll only need a few minutes to brown). If you’re making a 10^″ pie, increase the flour to 3 cups (360g), salt to 1½ teaspoons fat to 14 tablespoons (198g), and water to 8 to 12 tablespoons (113g to 170g).

Transfer Dough to Pie Pan. Next, transfer the rolled-out crust to a lightly greased pie pan. Greasing your pan will make removing the finished slices much easier, and it helps the bottom to brown and crisp. It’s important to use a pie pan that conducts heat well. We prefer a dark metal pan, followed (in preference) by a ceramic or clear glass pan. We don’t recommend light-colored metal pans as they don’t produce as brown a crust as darker metal. The pan will also affect the baking time considerably. A dark metal pan will bake in the shortest time, followed by glass or ceramic. Shiny metal pans will take the longest (see Tools section, page 524). Hint: If using a thin, shiny, disposable pie pan, place the pie pan in a cast iron skillet (which retains heat) to be sure the pie is nicely browned on the bottom.

Using a spatula (or, if the crust isn’t too thin and / or delicate, your fingers), fold the dough in half, then in half again the other way, so you’ve got a piece of dough that’s just a quarter of what it was originally; it should be much easier to handle. Pick up the dough, place the corner in the center of the pie pan, and unfold it (see illustrations on next page). Or carefully and gently roll the crust onto your well-floured rolling pin and unroll it into your pie pan. Or use a giant spatula or small baker’s peel to lift the entire crust and slide it into the pan.

Coat Crust and Add Filling. Brush the inside of the crust with lightly beaten egg white or milk. This very thin coating of protein will form a protective layer between crust and filling, helping to keep the crust from becoming soggy. Add the pie filling (or proceed to “Baking” on next page if baking an empty crust).

Roll Out and Add Top Crust (If Making a Two-Crust Pie). Roll out the top crust, just as you did the bottom crust, making it about an inch less in diameter. (If you’ve added so much filling that it’s heaped high in the pie shell, roll the top crust to the same size as the bottom crust.) Center the top crust over the filling.

**1 to 3.** After rolling out, you can fold the bottom crust into quarters, roll the dough around a rolling pin, or use a giant spatula or small baker’s peel to put it into your pie pan.

Wet the edges to be sealed with a bit of milk or beaten egg white. The protein in either, when cooked, will bond with the starch in the flour and act as “glue” between the two crusts.

Making sure your crust is well sealed is key to avoiding the problem of having hot, bubbling fruit juice erupt from it. There are a number of decorative ways to seal a crust. If the filling is heaped high in the pan, a tall, finger-fluted seal is preferable to a thin, fork-tine seal; the taller edge gives the dough a better chance of containing the juices from the filling.

The steam that tries to force those juices out has to go somewhere, so it’s important to make a few slits in the top crust of a pie. Once you’ve made sure there’s a place for steam to escape, do your best to seal any other openings.

Add Glaze (Optional). You can bake a pie as is, but in most instances a wash or glaze makes it more attractive. Plain milk or cream will make a browner, slightly shiny crust. An egg beaten with a bit of water will intensify the color and create a glossy finish. Using only the white will give a clear finish; a whole egg or just the yolk will give a more golden result. In either case, a sprinkle of coarse sugar after brushing will add sparkle.

Baking. Preheat the oven as the recipe directs. If you have one, a baking stone or steel is worth putting in the lower third of the oven before turning it on. Putting your pie pan on this heated surface transfers quick bottom heat, giving assurance against a soggy bottom crust. Some bakers swear by putting their pie plate into a cast iron pan before putting pan and plate into the oven together.

If the edges of the crust start to become too brown before the filling is done (for fruit pies, you should see bubbling all the way to the center of the pie), a pie crust shield (see below) is the easiest solution. Another option is to cover just the edges of the crust with a thin strip of aluminum foil before you put the pie in the oven. You can remove it for the last 10 minutes of baking to get more color on the edge, if needed.

When the pie is done, remove it from the oven and put it on a rack to cool.

Blind Baking. Some recipes call for you to blind bake a pie crust—that is, bake it without filling. Pies filled with fresh fruit, mousse, or cooked custard fillings are spooned into a fully cooked pastry shell. For some recipes (pumpkin pie) it’s wise to blind bake the bottom crust partway before adding the filling and finishing it in the oven. This makes a pie with a much better chance of staying flaky and crisp.

To blind bake a pie crust, roll it out and place it in the pan. Next, “dock” it with a pastry docker or fork—prick it all over to avoid trapping steam underneath. At this point it’s best to cover and refrigerate the rolled crust for 20 to 30 minutes; this will relax the gluten, firm the fat, and keep the crust from shrinking as it bakes.

To bake the chilled crust, line it with foil or parchment and weigh it down; otherwise steam released into the pan below the crust will cause it to dome like a blown-up balloon. In the past, bakers weighed down their pie crust with dry beans or uncooked rice. While these both work, they can be awkward to handle. You may also choose to use ceramic pie weights or a stainless steel pie chain; simply coil it onto the crust. The advantage of a pie chain is its ease of removal (use tongs to pick it up—it gets hot!). A creative solution instead of weights is to pour granulated sugar into the parchment-lined pie shell. It conforms faithfully to the pan’s shape and does a great job of holding the crust’s sides in place. The sugar will toast ever so slightly as the shell bakes in the oven, turning light golden brown and tasting wonderful. You can use the cooled sugar as you would in any other recipe after removing it from the pan.

For a fully blind-baked crust, bake it in a preheated 375°F oven for 20 to 25 minutes with the weights (use the longer time if using sugar); then remove the lining and weights and bake for an additional 15 minutes or until golden brown. For a partially baked crust—one that will finish baking with its filling—bake for 15 minutes with the weights, then remove the weights, fill, and bake as directed in the recipe.

Short-Flake Method

Whisk together the flour and salt. Using a pastry fork, pastry blender, or your fingers, cut or rub the fat you are using into the flour in one stage, until the mixture looks like bread crumbs. Add the water, a tablespoon at a time. Stir with a fork to moisten the dough evenly. To test for the right amount of moistness, use your hands to squeeze a chunk of it together. If it sticks together easily, it’s moist enough. If it falls apart, add a bit more water. Turn it out onto a lightly floured surface. Divide the ball of dough in half, pat each half into a flat disk about an inch thick, wrap both halves, and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes before rolling out.

Long-Flake Method

For a tender, ultra-flaky crust, use the “long-flake” method. Whisk together all the dry ingredients, reserving a few tablespoons of the flour. Cut in half of the fat, working the mixture until it’s crumbly.

Place the reserved flour on your work surface and coat the remaining fat (in a single piece) with the flour. Use a rolling pin or the heel of your hand to flatten the fat until it’s about ½^″ thick. Break this flour-coated fat into 1^″ pieces and mix them into the dough just until they’re evenly distributed; some of the pieces of flour-coated fat should break into smaller pieces.

Sprinkle the liquid over the dough while tossing with a fork. Stop mixing as soon as you can easily squeeze the dough into a ball. Visible pieces of fat should still appear in the dough. Flatten the dough into a disk and wrap it in plastic wrap or waxed paper. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. This resting period allows the flour to absorb the water, making the dough easier to roll out.

Flour your work surface and roll the dough into a 12^″ × 9^″ (approximately) rectangle. If it isn’t holding together well, use a spray bottle to lightly spritz or sprinkle any dry spots with cold water. Fold the dough into thirds (like a letter), then fold it into thirds the opposite way to form a rough square. Wrap it well and refrigerate again, for 30 minutes.

If the dough is made with all vegetable shortening, you’ll be able to work with it directly from the refrigerator. A dough made with all butter will need to warm slightly (10 to 15 minutes) before rolling, as butter becomes brittle when it’s refrigerated. Dough made with a combination of butter and shortening should rest for about 5 minutes at room temperature before rolling. Roll the dough to the size needed (about 13^″ for a 9^″ pie). Fill and bake as directed.

Food Processor Pie Crust

One 9^″ double crust

Pie crust is an ideal vehicle to take advantage of your food processor. Your machine, when using the pulse button, will very quickly cut in the fat or shortening with the flour. Because a food processor can heat up ingredients, it works best when you freeze the butter and/or shortening before putting them into the machine’s bowl, and have an ice cube or two in the water that you’ll be using. The consistency of your crust will depend on how thoroughly you mix the fat with the flour. The bigger the pieces of butter and shortening, the flakier your crust. Adding a little vinegar to the liquid in the recipe will help add to the crust’s flakiness, too. It’s OK if you see streaks of butter or shortening when you roll it out; they create flakiness when the crust is baking. If you process the mixture further until it looks like coarse cornmeal, you’ll have a shorter flake and a smaller crumb when you cut into the crust.

8 tablespoons (1 stick, 113g) unsalted butter, cold

½ cup (92g) vegetable shortening

3 cups (360g) unbleached all-purpose flour or a combination of all-purpose and unbleached pastry flours

Use a bench knife to cut a stick of butter into lengthwise strips. Flip the stick of butter on its side and repeat the process, then cut across the strips to get pea-size chunks.

1 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons vinegar

¼ to ½ cup (57g to 113g) ice water

Cut the stick of butter lengthwise into three slabs. Leave the slabs stacked, turn 90°, and make three lengthwise cuts to make 12 pencil-size strips.

With a bench scraper or knife, cut across the strips to make cubes of butter about ½^″ thick. Place the cubes in the freezer. Measure out the shortening and put it in the freezer, too. Leave the fats to firm up for at least 20 minutes while you gather the other things you need for your pie.

Place flour and salt in the bowl of your food processor fitted with the chopping blade. Turn on the machine for 5 seconds to mix the dry ingredients. Add the chilled fats and pulse for two seconds at a time, four times. Sprinkle the vinegar and ¼ cup (56g) of water over the dough. Pulse once more for only a second.

Take the mixture out of the machine and transfer to a mixing bowl or your work surface. The dough will still look crumbly and the butter should still be visible in rounded chunks. When you gather the dough in your hands, you will find that it is almost moist enough to hold together. Sprinkle it with 1 more tablespoon (14g) of water if necessary, mixing the dough with a fork, until the dough can be gathered together into a ball. Don’t work or knead the dough any more than is necessary, or it will become tough. Divide the dough into two pieces and form each of them into a disk. Wrap each disk in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes before rolling out.

Nutrition information per serving: 1 unfilled double-crust slice, 83g

No-Roll Pie Crust

One 9^″ single crust

For simplicity, you can’t beat this no-roll crust, which is made with vegetable oil. Crisp and tasty, it yields a nicely flaky crust with wonderful flavor. If you’re intimidated by a rolling pin, this is the crust for you.

2 cups (240g) unbleached all-purpose flour

heaping ½ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon sugar

3/8 teaspoon baking powder

7 tablespoons (87g) oil (canola, vegetable, olive, or peanut)

¼ cup (57g) water, cold

Whisk together the flour, salt, sugar, and baking powder. Whisk together the oil and water, then pour over the dry ingredients. Stir with a fork until the dough is evenly moistened.

Pat the dough across the bottom of the pie pan and up the sides. A flat-bottomed measuring cup or glass helps smooth the bottom. Crimp the edge or flatten with the tines of a fork.

Nutrition information per serving: 1 unfilled slice, 34g

Gluten-Free Pie Crust

One 9^″ single crust

We’re particularly proud of the flaky texture of this crust, which can be difficult to achieve with gluten-free ingredients. Thorough baking and a golden brown color will give this crust a wonderful toasty flavor. The Instant ClearJel used here is optional; it’s not packaged in a gluten-free facility, and thus isn’t suitable for celiacs or for those with a strong allergy to gluten. Leave it out if you need.

1¼ cups (195g) gluten-free all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon (12g) sugar

2 teaspoons Instant ClearJel (optional)

½ teaspoon xanthan gum

½ teaspoon salt

6 tablespoons (¾ stick, 85g) unsalted butter, cold

1 large egg

2 teaspoons lemon juice or vinegar

Lightly grease a 9^″ pie pan.

Whisk together the flour or flour blend, sugar, Instant ClearJel (if using), xanthan gum, and salt.

Cut the cold butter into pats, then work the pats into the flour mixture until it’s crumbly, with some larger, pea-size chunks of butter remaining.

Whisk the egg and vinegar or lemon juice together until very foamy. Mix into the dry ingredients. Stir until the mixture holds together, adding 1 to 3 additional tablespoons (14g to 42g) cold water if necessary.

Shape into a ball and chill for an hour, or up to overnight.

Allow the dough to rest at room temperature for 10 to 15 minutes before rolling.

Roll out on a piece of plastic wrap, on a silicone rolling mat, or in a pie bag that’s been heavily sprinkled with gluten-free flour or flour blend. Invert the crust into the prepared pie pan.

Fill and bake as your pie recipe directs.

Nutrition information per serving: 1 unfilled slice, 43g

Pâte Sucrée

One 9^″ to 10^″ tart shell

Pâte sucrée (in French), pasta frolla (in Italian), and sweetened, enriched short-flake crust are all the same. Richer tasting, and sandy and crumbly rather than flaky, they’re often used for fruit tarts but can be used for any sweet pastry. Egg, vanilla, butter (rather than shortening), and sugar distinguish this crust from its plainer medium- and short-flake cousins. This sweetened pastry falls midway between a classic pie crust and a cookie.

1¼ cups (133g) pastry or unbleached all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon nonfat dry milk (optional, but helpful for browning and tenderness)

¼ cup (50g) sugar

¼ teaspoon salt

8 tablespoons (1 stick, 113g) unsalted butter, cold

1 large egg yolk

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 tablespoon (14g) water

In a medium bowl, whisk together the dry ingredients, then cut in the cold butter. Whisk together the egg yolk, vanilla, and water and stir into the dry mixture; the dough should be crumbly but hold together when squeezed. Roll out the dough, or press it into the bottom and up the sides of a 9^″ square or 10^″ round tart pan (preferably with a removable bottom). Prick it all over with a fork and refrigerate for 30 minutes or longer.

Preheat the oven to 375°F.

To prepare a blind-baked, ready-to-fill crust, weigh down the crust with pie weights, a nesting pie pan, or line with parchment and fill with rice or dried beans. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, until the crust is set. Remove weights, extra pan, or parchment and return to the oven to bake for another 6 to 8 minutes, until golden brown. Remove it from the oven and cool before filling.

Nutrition information per serving: 1 unfilled slice, 44g

CITRUS-SCENTED Tart Dough

Three 8^″ or 9^″ tarts

This tart dough handles and rolls beautifully, and once it’s baked, is strong enough to hold itself and whatever you fill it with without the aid of a pan. But the most amazing thing about this dough is the flavor: the citrus zest adds a brightness to any tart you make with it without overwhelming the filling. Since it makes a triple batch, we recommend freezing whatever you don’t use right away; well-wrapped dough will keep for 3 to 4 months. The possibilities for fillings are endless; consider filling it, after blind baking, with a simple pastry cream or lemon curd topped with fresh berries. Another delicious idea is baking the tart shell, spreading a thin layer of chocolate ganache on the bottom, and then filling it with a raspberry mousse before chilling and serving.

1 cup (198g) sugar

zest of 1 lemon

zest of 1 orange

5 cups (530g) unbleached pastry flour or 4¾ cups (570g) unbleached all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon salt

24 tablespoons (3 sticks, 340g) unsalted butter, slightly softened

1 large egg

2 large egg yolks

1 to 2 tablespoons (14g to 28g) water

In a large bowl, combine the sugar and citrus zest, and stir to combine.

Add the flour and salt and whisk until well combined.

Cut the butter into small chunks and cut these into the dry ingredients; mix until the dough has a texture similar to rolled oats.

Add the egg and egg yolks, mix for another 2 minutes, then add the water, and mix 2 minutes more.

Take the dough out of the bowl and use the heel of your hand to smear the dough on the surface until it comes together in small pieces. Press the pieces together.

If necessary, sprinkle it with more water or flour to get a smooth consistency.

Divide the dough into three pieces, forming each into a 4^″ disk. Wrap the disks and refrigerate them for at least an hour before rolling.

Take one piece of dough out of the fridge, allow it to soften for about 5 to 10 minutes, until it’s pliable, and roll it out to fit a 9^″ square (or 10^″ round) tart tin, preferably one with a removable bottom. If you don’t have a tart tin, use a 9^″ pie pan.

Prick the dough all over with a fork; fill it with pie weights or a pie chain; or line it with waxed paper, and fill it about half full with dried rice or beans. Chill the dough again before baking, if possible.

Preheat the oven to 375°F.

Bake the tart shell until the edges are golden, about 14 minutes. Remove the weights and return to the oven.

Bake for 5 to 7 minutes, or until the bottom of the dough is set through and a light golden brown.

Nutrition information per serving: 1 unfilled slice, 42g

Cookie Crumb Crusts

The easiest crusts of all to prepare are cookie crumb crusts, which are exactly what they sound like: crusts prepared from a mixture of crushed cookies, sugar, and butter. The crust is pressed into the pan rather than rolled out. Just about any crisp (as opposed to chewy or soft) cookie is a candidate for crushing and making into pie crust; we’ve given instructions for some of our favorites here.

Graham Cracker Crust

One 9^″ single crust

You can substitute chocolate cookies, vanilla wafers, or gingersnaps here, or peruse the cookie aisle and come up with your own crumb crust. Just make sure the cookies are crisp, not moist or chewy. Try a combination of gingersnaps and vanilla wafers, or gingersnaps and chocolate cookies. These crumb crusts are the perfect foundation for creamy fillings: Key lime pie, chocolate cream pie, and cheesecakes all combine happily with cookie crumb crusts.

1¾ cups (about 147g) graham cracker crumbs

¼ cup (28g) confectioners’ sugar

6 tablespoons (¾ stick, 76g) unsalted butter, melted

Preheat the oven to 375°F.

In a medium bowl, combine the crumbs, sugar, and butter. Press the mixture into the bottom and partway up the sides of a 9^″ springform pan, 9^″ cheesecake pan, or 9^″ deep-dish pie pan. If you’re using a 9^{̋ x}1½^″ pan, you’ll have ¼ to ½ cup extra crumbs. This can become a garnish for the pie, if you like.

To blind bake the crust (cookie crumb crusts are nearly always blind baked; no need to weigh it down), bake for 15 minutes, just until set and you smell the cookies toasting. Remove the crust from the oven, cool on a rack, and add the filling of your choice.

Use a straight-sided measuring cup to press the crumbs into place and smooth out the bottom and sides of your crust.

Nutrition information per serving: 1 unfilled slice, 36g

Variations

Chocolate Cookie Crust: Replace the graham crackers with 2 cups of chocolate cookie crumbs; 40 chocolate wafer cookies (one 9-ounce package) will crush down to 2 cups of crumbs.

Vanilla Wafer Crust: Replace the graham crackers with 2 cups of vanilla wafer cookie crumbs. About 71 small cookies (245g) will crush down to 2 cups of crumbs.

Gingersnap Crust: Replace the graham crackers with 2 cups of crushed gingersnaps. About 43 gingersnaps (301g) will crush down to 2 cups of crumbs.

Fruit Pie Fillings

Certainly the largest, most varied, and one of the oldest pie categories is the fruit pie. There are many ways to prepare a fruit pie. The most common is to cut fruit into bite-size pieces (coring and / or peeling it first, if necessary); mix it with sugar and a thickener (to thicken the juices exuded as it bakes); spoon it into a prepared pie crust; top with another crust or with streusel and bake until the crust is golden and the fruit bubbly. Another way, and one we particularly like for berries, is to prebake the crust, sweeten and cook half the berries, then mix the cooked berries with uncooked fresh berries, and spoon the resultant filling into the crust. Top with whipped cream and you’ve got a summertime treat folks will swoon over. A third type of fruit pie, one made less frequently, involves sweetening the fruit, then cooking it on top of the stove—with or without any thickener—until it is about three-quarters of the way to the consistency you like. Spoon the cooked fruit into an unbaked crust, top with a second crust, and bake. Try this method if you consistently have problems with runny, watery fruit in your pies.

Thickeners for Pies

There’s a whole range of ingredients that will help you thicken the delicious fruit juices in your pie, so you can slice your creation. Each of them behaves a little differently and has a different degree of holding power, or gel strength. The simplest way to distribute the thickener for a fruit pie evenly throughout the filling is to combine it with the sugar and spices used to flavor the pie.

All-purpose flour has the lowest gel strength, and it will give an opaque, cloudy appearance to the fruit.

Cornstarch has the most holding power for its weight, but gives a cloudy, semitransparent look to the filling. Some people can detect its taste, as well.

Modified food starch (Instant ClearJel) has plenty of thickening power and will keep fillings thick through a greater range of temperatures. It will thicken a filling’s liquid at room temperature, without cooking (this is why mixing it with sugar in advance is very important); it will also keep a filling thick through freezing temperatures and back. It gives an opaque, semitranslucent look to liquids.

Pie Filling Enhancer is a combination of modified food starch, superfine sugar, and ascorbic acid; it will thicken fruit pie fillings the same way Instant ClearJel does. Its advantage is the added ascorbic acid (a flavor enhancer) and superfine sugar, which prevents the food starch from clumping.

Arrowroot, tapioca flour, and potato starch will give you a clear, translucent filling. Potato starch has the most holding power, followed by arrowroot, with tapioca flour third.

Quick-cooking tapioca holds better than tapioca flour by volume, but works best if combined with the filling and given time to soften and absorb its juices (15 to 30 minutes) before baking. It will give a clear filling, but also a stippled and slightly sticky texture.

FRUIT	THICKENER	HOW MUCH TO USE PER CUP OF FRUIT
Apples Need the least amount of thickener, since they are less watery. They are also high in pectin, which helps them set up as filling.	All-purpose flour	1¾ teaspoons
	Instant ClearJel, arrowroot, or quick-cooking tapioca	½ teaspoon
	Cornstarch	½ teaspoon
Reduce sugar by ¾ teaspoon per cup	Pie Filling Enhancer	1½ teaspoons
	Tapioca flour	1 teaspoon
Blackberries and Raspberries Have a lot of liquid, and release even more if they’ve been frozen, so need more thickener.	All-purpose flour	1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon
	Instant ClearJel or arrowroot	2¾ teaspoons
	Cornstarch or quick-cooking tapioca	1 tablespoon
Reduce sugar by 2½ teaspoons per cup	Pie Filling Enhancer	2 tablespoons
	Tapioca flour	1½ tablespoons
Blueberries Have a lot of pectin, so will need a little less thickener than other berries, especially when cooked with lemon juice and sugar.	All-purpose flour	1 tablespoon
	Instant ClearJel or arrowroot	2 teaspoons
	Cornstarch	2½ teaspoons
	Quick-cooking tapioca	1½ teaspoons
Reduce sugar by 2 teaspoons per cup	Pie Filling Enhancer	1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon
Cherries Fresh cherries will need slightly less thickener than canned or frozen.	All-purpose flour	1 tablespoon
	Instant ClearJel or arrowroot	2½ teaspoons
	Cornstarch	2 teaspoons
	Quick-cooking tapioca	1¼ teaspoons
Reduce sugar by 2 teaspoons per cup	Pie Filling Enhancer	1 tablespoon plus ½ teaspoon
	Tapioca flour	1½ tablespoons
Peaches, Stone Fruits Don’t have quite as much pectin as apples; they’re also juicier, so require more thickener.	All-purpose flour	2½ teaspoons
	Instant ClearJel or arrowroot	2½ teaspoons
	Cornstarch	2 teaspoons
	Quick-cooking tapioca	1½ teaspoons
Reduce sugar by 2½ teaspoons per cup	Pie Filling Enhancer	2½ teaspoons
	Tapioca flour	1½ tablespoons
Strawberry-Rhubarb The juiciest fruit combination with the least amount of pectin; requires the most thickener.	All-purpose flour	1 tablespoon plus 1½ teaspoons
	Instant ClearJel or arrowroot	1 tablespoon
	Cornstarch	1 tablespoon plus ¼ teaspoon
Reduce sugar by 1 tablespoon per cup	Pie Filling Enhancer	2 tablespoons
	Quick-cooking tapioca	2½ teaspoons
	Tapioca flour	1½ tablespoons

Top Crust Tips

Just as your pie’s bottom crust may be short- or long-flake, chocolate or ginger, sweet or savory, the top crust may also change its character to match the filling (or your own special taste). The simplest and most common top crust for a double-crust pie is simply a replication of the bottom crust; make double pie crust recipe and divide it in half—making one half (the bottom) just slightly larger than the other (the top). The top crust is rolled out, laid atop the filling, and sealed to the bottom crust.

Before you put the pie in the oven, cut several slits through it to allow steam to escape. This can be done as artfully as you want. Another way to be artful with your top crust is to use some of the pastry scraps to decorate it. Cut them into leaves, flowers, or something that’s symbolic of what’s in the pie, or the occasion the pie is for. Stick these on with a bit of water or egg beaten with a bit of water. If you paint them with a bit of the egg wash or a little milk or cream, they’ll brown nicely and be more visible. Finally, the top crust of a fruit pie can be woven or cut into a lattice, an old-fashioned attractive treatment, particularly for pies with bright filling such as cherry or raspberry.

If you’re making a single-crust pie, one that has only a bottom crust, make a tall fluted edge for cream or custard pies where the liquid comes right up to the rim of the pan. Clearly, it’s easier to move this type of pie from counter to oven rack if there’s a nice, tall dam containing the filling. By the way, if you really have trouble moving custard pies (pumpkin, etc.) into the oven, try this: Place the pie pan and empty crust on the pulled-out rack of the preheated oven, fill it, gently slide the oven rack into the oven, and shut the door.

A single-crust fruit pie is often topped with streusel (which can add “crumb,” “streusel,” or “Dutch” to the pie’s name). The same streusel that tops fruit crisps or crumbles—with oats or without—is appropriate for fruit pies.

Cut strips of dough and weave together on a giant spatula or piece of parchment. Use the spatula or parchment to transfer the lattice to the top of the pie.

The Very Freshest Fruit Pie

One 9^″ pie

Here’s a very simple formula for fresh fruit pie that you’ll find yourself making again and again. We first learned this method in East Machias, Maine, where this type of fresh blueberry pie appears each August. The genius of this pie lies in the method of keeping half of the fruit uncooked, which preserves the fresh fruit flavor, letting its ripeness shine unlike most styles of fruit pie.

4 cups (or a bit more; 680g) fresh whole berries, or other fruit, cut into pieces

2/3 to 1½ cups (131g to 299g) sugar, to taste

¼ cup (28g) cornstarch

1 cup (227g) water

1 tablespoon (14g) lemon juice

2 tablespoons (28g) butter

one 9^″ single pie crust (see pages 358–369), blind baked

In a food processor or by hand, coarsely chop 1½ cups (168g) of the fruit. Put the sugar (starting with the lesser amount), cornstarch, and water in a saucepan and mix until smooth. Add the 1½ cups (168g) coarsely chopped fruit and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until mixture is thick and semitransparent, 7 to 10 minutes. Stir in the lemon juice.

Add the butter and remaining 2½ cups (280g) fruit. Stir well and taste; add more sugar, if necessary, until it tastes good to you. Pour into the baked pie shell and chill until firm. Serve with whipped cream (we like it lightly sweetened and flavored with vanilla), if desired.

Nutrition information per serving: 1 slice with blueberries, 167g

Apple Pie

One 9^″ pie

A slice of warm apple pie is the perfect end to any meal, from lunch to dinner (and we wouldn’t say no to a cold slice for breakfast either). We’ve made many apple pies over the years, and this is our favorite classic version, with a comforting and familiar combination of spices, a flaky crust, and just the right amount of sweetness. One thing we do consistently endorse is using more than one kind of apple in the filling. This gives the filling a nice balance of texture and tartness.

8 cups (904g) peeled, sliced apple (from about 3¼ pounds whole apples)

2 tablespoons (28g) lemon juice

¾ cup (149g) sugar

2 tablespoons (15g) unbleached all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons (14g) cornstarch or Instant ClearJel

¼ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon cinnamon

¼ teaspoon nutmeg

¼ teaspoon allspice

¼ cup (85g) boiled cider or undiluted apple juice concentrate

2 teaspoons vanilla extract (optional)

one 9^″ double pie crust (see pages 358–369)

2 tablespoons (28g) butter, diced in small pieces

Preheat the oven to 425°F. Lightly grease a 9^″ pie pan that’s at least 2^″ deep. This will make serving the pie easier after it’s baked.

To make the filling: Combine the sliced apples and lemon juice in a large mixing bowl.

In a small bowl, whisk together the sugar, flour, cornstarch, salt, and spices. Sprinkle the mixture over the apples and stir to coat them. Stir in the boiled cider or apple juice concentrate and the vanilla (if using).

To assemble the pie: Take your pie crust dough out of the refrigerator and divide it into two pieces—one slightly larger than the other—if you haven’t already. Roll the larger piece of pastry into a 13^″ circle. Transfer it to the prepared pan and trim the edges so they overlap the rim of the pan by an inch all the way around.

Spoon the apple filling into the pan. Dot the top with the diced butter.

Roll out the remaining pastry to an 11^″ circle. Carefully place the pastry over the apples. Bring the overhanging bottom crust up and over the top crust, pinching to seal the two and making a decorative crimp. Prick the crust all over with a fork to allow steam to escape. Or cut decorative vent holes, if desired. Alternatively, you can weave a lattice.

For extra crunch and shine, brush the top crust with milk (or an egg white beaten with 1 tablespoon [14g] of water), and sprinkle with coarse sugar. Place the pie in the refrigerator for 10 minutes to firm up the crust while the oven finishes heating.

Place the pie on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Bake the pie for 20 minutes, then reduce the oven temperature to 375°F and bake for 40 minutes more, until you see the filling bubbling inside the pie (and perhaps dripping onto the parchment). Check the pie after 30 minutes of baking time and cover the edges with foil or a pie shield to keep them from browning too quickly, if necessary.

When the pie is done—you should see the filling bubbling vigorously, either around the edges, or via any decorative vents—remove it from the oven.

Cool the pie completely before slicing—really. Cutting any fruit pie that’s still warm is a messy business. The filling continues to thicken as the pie cools, and if you cut it too soon it will run out all over the place. It’s better to bake the pie in advance, cool it completely, then warm each slice as needed after it’s been cut.

Variation

Cheddar Apple Pie: Swap ½ cup of the fat in your crust dough for ½ cup (57g) grated cheddar cheese.

Nutrition information per serving: 1 slice, 205g

Old-Fashioned Apple Slab Pie

1 pie

A flaky, tender crust encases a cinnamon-scented apple filling . . . that’s a pie, right? In a manner of speaking! Here, we use all the components of a traditional round pie but we bake them in a rectangular pan. The result is a shallow pie, easy to slice into squares and simple to transport, too. We love it for bigger gatherings or parties, as it can yield a lot of small servings.

Crust

2½ cups (300g) unbleached all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon baking powder

2 tablespoons (14g) confectioners’ sugar

2 tablespoons (25g) buttermilk powder

¼ cup (25g) vegetable shortening

10 tablespoons (142g) unsalted butter, cold

1 teaspoon cider or white vinegar

6 to 10 tablespoons (85g to 142g) ice water

Filling

1 cup (200g) panko bread crumbs or other coarse dry bread crumbs or 1 cup (25g) coarsely crushed cornflakes

8 cups (904g) peeled, cored, and sliced Granny Smith or other tart, firm apples—about 3¼ pounds (8 to 10 medium) whole apples

2/3 cup (131g) cinnamon sugar

Topping (Optional)

milk or cream

coarse white sugar

Glaze (Optional)

1½ cups (170g) confectioners’ sugar

1/3 cup (113g) boiled cider

small pinch of salt

½ teaspoon cinnamon

1 teaspoon milk or cream, if necessary to thin the glaze

Whisk together the flour, salt, baking powder, confectioners’ sugar, and buttermilk powder.

Add the shortening, working it in until the mixture is evenly crumbly.

Cut the butter into small (about ½^″) cubes. Add the butter to the flour mixture, and work it in roughly with your fingers, a pastry cutter, or a mixer. Don’t be too thorough; the mixture should be very uneven, with big chunks of butter in among the smaller ones.

Add the vinegar and 4 tablespoons (57g) water and toss to combine. Toss with enough additional water to make a chunky, fairly cohesive mixture. It should hold together when you gather it up and squeeze it in your hand.

Divide the dough into two pieces; one should represent about 40% of the dough, the other, about 60%. If you have a scale, this is easy; the smaller piece of dough should weigh about 245g, the larger piece, about 371g (if you’ve used about 7 to 8 tablespoons [99g to 113g] of water in the dough). If you don’t have a scale and / or aren’t good at math, eyeball it: The bottom crust needs to be larger than the top crust.

Shape each piece of crust into a rectangle; you’re going to be rolling them into rectangles, so you might as well give yourself a head start. Cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 30 to 60 minutes, until thoroughly chilled.

Take the larger piece of pastry out of the fridge and put it on a floured work surface. Roll it into an 11^{̋ x}15^″ rectangle. Don’t worry about the ragged edges; they’ll disappear under the top crust.

Place the crust in an ungreased 9^{̋ x}13^″ cake pan. Patch up any holes by pushing the pastry together with your fingers, or adding a pinch from the excess on the sides. Push the pastry up the sides of the pan a bit to make a shallow pastry container for the apples.

Put the crust in the fridge while you get the apples ready. Start preheating your oven to 350°F.

Take both crusts out of the fridge and spread the bread crumbs or crushed cornflakes evenly over the prepared bottom crust.

Spread the sliced apples atop the crumbs.

Sprinkle the cinnamon sugar over the apples.

Roll the remaining piece of pastry into a 9^{̋ x}13^″ rectangle. Again, don’t worry too much about ragged edges.

Lay the top crust over the apples. Yes, apples will poke through. Seal the edges of the two crusts as well as you can. There’ll be places where they don’t quite meet. That’s OK. If the whole thing has become warm and sticky and hard to work with, pop it in the fridge for 15 minutes to firm it up.

Just before baking, slash the crust 6 to 8 times to allow steam to escape. If desired, brush the crust with milk or cream, and sprinkle with coarse sugar.

Bake the slab for an hour; it’ll be golden brown, and the filling should be bubbling. Remove it from the oven, and allow it to cool a bit before serving. If you choose to add the glaze, let it cool completely.

To make the glaze (if using): Combine the confectioners’ sugar, boiled cider, cinnamon, salt, and enough milk or cream (if necessary) to make the mixture thin enough to drizzle. Don’t have boiled cider? Use plain milk or cream, maple syrup, honey, or thawed apple juice concentrate. Start with ¼ cup of any of these; if you’ve made this kind of icing before, you know it’s easier to add more liquid than to try to take it away. Add enough liquid to make the glaze pourable.

Drizzle the glaze atop the slab.

Nutrition information per serving: 1 square, 147g

Mr. Washington’s Cherry Pie

One 9^″ pie

In honor of George, of course. The sour cherries are important—not just any canned cherry will do. When you see them at the grocery store, stock up. If you can’t find them, frozen tart cherries (thawed and drained) are a good alternative.

one 9^″ double pie crust (see pages 358–369)

5 to 6 cups (three 14½ -ounce cans) sour cherries, packed in water

¾ cup (147g) sugar

¾ teaspoon cinnamon

¼ cup (42g) quick-cooking tapioca

1 teaspoon almond extract

½ teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons (28g) butter (optional)

Line a 9^″ pie pan with one half of the rolled-out pie dough. Drain the cherries, reserving 2/3 cup (151g) of the water from one of the cans. Place the cherries and reserved liquid in a large mixing bowl. Combine the sugar, cinnamon, and tapioca. Stir into the cherries until evenly combined. Stir in the almond extract and salt. Let the filling sit for 20 minutes before filling the pie shell.

Preheat the oven to 425°F.

Spoon the filling into the pastry-lined pan and dot with butter, if using. Roll out the second crust and place on top of the filling. Cut a design (two cherries! a hatchet!) into the top to vent steam, and seal the top and bottom crust together, fluting with your fingers or a fork.

Place the pie on a foil-lined baking sheet and bake for 15 minutes. Reduce the heat to 350°F and bake for an additional 35 to 50 minutes, until the crust is golden brown and the fruit is bubbling. Take out of the oven and cool on a rack before slicing, so the filling can set up.

Nutrition information per serving: 1 slice, 236g

Strawberry Rhubarb Pie

One 9^″ pie

Strawberries and rhubarb are a match made in heaven! This pie has wonderful flavor with the assertive tang from the rhubarb perfectly balanced by sweet, ripe strawberries. Bright and colorful, this pie is the essence of summer.

one 9^″ double pie crust (see pages 358–369)

1¼ cups (248g) granulated sugar

5 tablespoons (53g) Instant ClearJel or 7½ tablespoons (57g) unbleached all-purpose flour

¼ teaspoon salt

3½ to 4 cups (420g to 480g) lightly packed diced rhubarb, fresh or frozen

3 cups (501g) hulled, quartered strawberries, fresh or frozen

1 tablespoon (14g) butter

coarse white sugar, for sprinkling

Line a 9^″ pie pan (or two 6^″ pie pans) with half the crust. Refrigerate while you make the filling, for at least 30 minutes.

Whisk together the sugar, Instant ClearJel or flour, and salt.

Toss the rhubarb and strawberries with the sugar mixture. Spoon the fruit into the pan(s), filling them about three-quarters full and mounding the filling a bit in the center.

Place dabs of the butter atop the filling. Return the pie to the refrigerator.

Preheat the oven to 425°F.

Roll out the remaining crust and cut it into star shapes, or any other shape you like.

Place the pastry shapes atop the filling. Brush with water and sprinkle with coarse sugar.

Bake the pie(s) for 30 minutes (for the 9^″ pie), or 20 minutes (for the 6^″ pies), then reduce the oven heat to 375°F and bake for an additional 30 to 40 minutes (9^″ pie), or 20 to 25 minutes (6^″ pies), until the filling is bubbling and the crust nicely browned.

Remove the pie(s) from the oven and let cool for an hour or so before serving.

The pie may be served warm, but it’ll be a bit messy; it sets as it cools.

Nutrition information per serving: 1 slice, 241g

Gingered Plum Streusel Pie

One 9^″ pie

While this is a fruit pie, the addition of ginger elevates it beyond an ordinary plum pie, giving it a kick of spice that will have people asking for the recipe over and over again.

Filling

4 cups (680g) chopped plums

½ cup (107g) brown sugar, packed

1 tablespoon (11g) diced crystallized ginger

2 tablespoons (21g) quick-cooking tapioca

½ teaspoon cinnamon

½ teaspoon ginger

½ teaspoon lemon extract

Topping

¾ cup (90g) unbleached all-purpose flour

¾ cup (149g) granulated sugar

¼ teaspoon ginger

6 tablespoons (¾ stick, 85g) unsalted butter

one 9^″ single pie crust (see pages 358–369)

1 large egg white, beaten

Preheat the oven to 375°F.

To make the filling: Combine the plums, brown sugar, crystallized ginger, tapioca, cinnamon, ginger, and lemon extract.

Let the mixture sit for 15 minutes at room temperature.

To make the topping: Combine the flour, sugar, and ginger. Cut in the butter until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Set aside.

To assemble and bake the pie: Roll out the pie dough and press it gently into a 9^″ pie plate, crimping and trimming the edges as needed. Brush the inside of the unbaked pie crust lightly with the beaten egg white.

Spoon the filling into the crust.

Top the pie with the streusel topping.

Bake the pie for 50 minutes, or until the fruit is bubbling and the topping is golden brown.

Serve the pie warm or at room temperature, topped with whipped cream or ice cream (ginger is superb), if desired.

Nutrition information per serving: 1 slice, 171g

Blushing Peach Pie

One 9^″ pie

Ever since Auguste Escoffier paired peaches and raspberries in honor of Nellie Melba, this flavor combination has been bringing down the house. You can use prepared raspberry syrup, or make your own by simmering 1 cup (120g) raspberries, fresh or frozen, with 3/4 cup (149g) of sugar until the sugar is dissolved, then straining out the fruit.

6 cups peeled, sliced peaches (12 to 14 peaches, 4 to 5 pounds, 1.8 to 2.3kg), or 2 one-pound (907g) bags of individually quick frozen peach slices, thawed

½ cup (113g) raspberry syrup

¼ cup (28g) tapioca flour or cornstarch (28g)

1 teaspoon lemon juice

¾ to 1 cup (149g to 198g) granulated sugar, to taste

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon nutmeg

one 9^″ double pie crust (see pages 358–369)

2 tablespoons (25g) coarse white sugar

Preheat the oven to 425°F.

In a large bowl, combine the peaches, raspberry syrup, tapioca flour, lemon juice, sugar, salt, and nutmeg.

Roll out half the pastry to a 13^″ circle and fit it into a 9^″ pie pan. Spoon the filling into the shell. Top with the other piece of rolled-out crust (make a lattice top, page 373, if desired) and sprinkle with coarse sugar. If not using a lattice top, cut several vents in the top crust.

Bake the pie for 15 minutes. Reduce the oven heat to 350°F and bake for an additional 35 to 50 minutes, until the crust is golden and the juices are bubbling. Remove the pie from the oven and cool it on a rack.

Nutrition information per serving: 1 slice, 204g

Bumbleberry Pie

One 9^″ pie

There you are, in high summer, the raspberries are at the end of their season and the blackberries are charging in. Blueberries are around also, and you have some of each but not enough of any to make a pie. That is the time for bumbleberry pie. These fruits are so used to starring roles on their own, we don’t realize how delicious they can be in combination.

In the New England tradition of “use what you have,” you can take this recipe and substitute cranberries for one of the berries. If it’s midwinter and you need a taste of warmer times, most stores now carry quick-frozen berries. These work just fine and are easy to measure out when frozen. We recommend you thaw them (and drain, if necessary) before proceeding with the recipe.

2 tablespoons (28g) orange juice

1 teaspoon orange zest

2 cups (340g) blueberries

2 cups (240g) raspberries

2 cups (340g) blackberries

1 cup (198g) granulated sugar

¼ cup (28g) cornstarch or quick-cooking tapioca

one 9^″ double pie crust (see pages 358–369)

2 tablespoons (25g) coarse white sugar

Place all the ingredients except the dough in a 2½-quart saucepan and simmer until filling is thickened. Cool to lukewarm.

Preheat the oven to 425°F.

Roll out half the pastry to a 13^″ circle and fit it into a 9^″ pie pan. Spoon the filling into the shell. Top with the other piece of rolled-out crust, and sprinkle with coarse sugar. Cut several vents in the top. Bake for 15 minutes, then lower the heat to 350°F and bake for another 35 to 50 minutes, until the top is evenly golden brown.

Nutrition information per serving: 1 slice, 243g

Variation

Blueberry Pie: Use all blueberries (6 cups) in the above recipe. Substitute lemon zest for the orange zest and add 2 tablespoons (29g) lemon juice and ½ teaspoon allspice or cinnamon to the filling.

Blueberry Hand Pies

8 hand pies

These sweet and fruit-forward pastries can be served anytime and anywhere, thanks to their convenient portability. We use a sour cream dough here, which creates a sturdier crust—ideal for something hand-held. If you’re using frozen berries, adjust the filling quantities of thickener to 2½ tablespoons (18g) cornstarch or 1½ tablespoons (17g) Instant ClearJel.

Pastry

2 cups (240g) unbleached all-purpose flour

¾ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon baking powder

16 tablespoons (2 sticks, 227g) unsalted butter, cold

½ cup (113g) sour cream, cold

Filling

2 cups blueberries, fresh or frozen

2 tablespoons (14g) cornstarch or 1 tablespoon (11g) Instant ClearJel

1/3 cup (67g) granulated sugar

1/8 teaspoon salt (a large pinch)

1 tablespoon (14g) lemon juice

Topping

1 large egg, beaten

2 tablespoons (25g) coarse white sugar

To make the pastry: Whisk together the flour, salt, and baking powder. Add the butter, working it in to make a coarse and crumbly mixture. Leave most of the butter in large, pea-size pieces.

Add the sour cream and stir until the mixture starts to come together in chunks. Turn it out onto a floured work surface and bring it together with a few quick kneads.

Pat the dough into a rough log and roll it into an 8^{̋ x}10^″ rectangle. Dust both sides of the dough with flour, and starting with a shorter end, fold it in three like a business letter.

Flip the dough over, give it a 90° turn on your work surface, and roll it again into an 8^{̋ x}10^″ rectangle. Fold it in three again.

Wrap the dough, and chill for at least 30 minutes before using.

To make the filling: If you’re using fresh berries, rinse and drain well. Place fresh or frozen berries in a saucepan. Whisk the cornstarch or Instant ClearJel with the sugar, and pour over the berries. Add the salt and lemon juice, stirring to combine.

Place the saucepan on a burner set to medium-high heat and cook, stirring, until the small amount of liquid in the bottom of the pan comes to a simmer. Reduce the heat to medium and continue to cook, stirring frequently, until the mixture starts to thicken, about 5 minutes. Transfer the cooked berries to a bowl and let cool to room temperature. It’s fine to make the filling ahead of time and refrigerate until you’re ready to use it.

Preheat the oven to 425°F; place a rack on the middle shelf. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

To assemble the pies: Roll the dough into a 14^″ × 14^″ square. With a straight edge and pastry wheel, or a 3½^″ square cutter, cut out sixteen 3½^″ squares.

Divide the filling among eight of the squares, using about a heaping tablespoon for each (a tablespoon cookie scoop works well here). Brush some of the beaten egg along the edges of each filled square.

Use a knife to cut a vent into each of the remaining eight squares; or use a decorative cutter of your choice.

Top each filled square with a vented square and press along the edges with the tines of a fork to seal.

Brush the top of each pie with the remaining beaten egg, and sprinkle with coarse sugar. Transfer the pies to the prepared baking sheet. If at any time during this process, the pies become sticky and hard to work with, simply refrigerate them for about 20 minutes, until firm.

Bake the pies for 18 to 20 minutes, until they’re a light golden brown. Remove them from the oven and let cool for 20 minutes before serving.

Nutrition information per serving: 1 hand pie, 120g

Cream or Custard Pies

Cream and custard pies encompass everything from butterscotch to pumpkin. Custard pies are prepared by pouring an uncooked milk, egg, and sugar filling into an unbaked crust, then baking. Cream pies are usually made by spooning a flavored, fully prepared pastry cream into a fully baked crust (though they’re sometimes baked, as with custard pies). Both are commonly topped with whipped cream or a baked meringue topping.

Custard Pie

One 9^″ pie

Sweet, smooth, and oh-so-creamy, custard pie may seem humble but it shouldn’t be overlooked. To make a custard pie that doesn’t have a soggy bottom crust, we like to blind bake the crust for about 15 minutes in a 425°F oven (be sure to weigh it down to keep it from puffing), remove it from the oven, and brush it with beaten egg yolk. Return it to the oven and bake for 5 more minutes, to set the egg yolk. While the crust is baking, make the custard. Pour the hot custard into the hot pie shell and bake following the directions below. For best results, allow custard pie to cool and set for several hours before serving.

one 9^″ single pie crust (see pages 358–369), blind baked as directed above

1 egg yolk, beaten (to brush on crust, as directed above)

1½ cups (340g) milk

1 cup (227g) heavy cream or half-and-half

1/3 vanilla bean,* split, or 2 teaspoons vanilla extract

¼ teaspoon salt

4 large eggs

2/3 cup (133g) sugar

¼ teaspoon nutmeg (freshly grated is best)

Preheat the oven to 425°F.

Scald the milk and cream with the piece of vanilla bean and the salt. (If using vanilla extract, just scald the milk and cream with the salt.) Remove the vanilla bean. In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs and sugar (and vanilla extract, if using), then pour a quarter of the hot milk over the egg mixture and stir well. Pour the egg mixture into the remaining hot milk and stir well. Pour the custard into the hot, partially baked crust, and sprinkle it with the nutmeg. Use a crust shield or strips of aluminum foil to protect the edges of the crust from overbrowning.

Bake the pie for 10 minutes. Turn off the oven and, without opening the door, bake it for another 5 minutes. The mixture should look set around the edges but will still be wobbly in the middle. If it’s not set at the edges, bake it for 5 minutes more. If you have a digital thermometer, remove the pie from the oven when it reaches 165°F in the center. If the mixture goes above 180°F, the custard will become watery. Cool the pie for several hours before serving.

* We like the sprinkle of brown flecks you get from using a vanilla bean. However, 2 teaspoons vanilla extract may be substituted for the bean. If using a bean, after scalding it, rinse it in cool water, dry it overnight, and cover it with sugar to make a lightly scented vanilla sugar.

Nutrition information per serving: 1 slice, 116g

Variation

Coconut Custard Pie: Follow the directions for custard pie, adding 1 cup (85g) sweetened shredded coconut to the custard before pouring it into the pie shell.

Chocolate Cream Pie

One 9^″ pie

A true diner classic, this decadent dessert is beloved by fans of both chocolate and pie. The crust is blind baked, then filled with a cooked, cooled chocolate filling. Topped with lightly sweetened whipped cream, it’s the perfect combination of crispy crust, dense chocolate filling, and airy cream topping. This is a tall pie with a generous amount of filling, which you can customize to your taste by using bittersweet, semisweet, milk chocolate, or any combination of these that you like.

Note here that your pie pan should be at least 2^″ deep in order to hold all the filling. If, after forming the crust and pouring in the filling, you find yourself with leftover filling, simply pour it into a custard dish and refrigerate it until firm. It makes a delicious pudding.

one 9^″ single pie crust (see pages 358–369), blind baked

2 tablespoons (28g) butter

1 1/3 cups (227g) chopped semisweet chocolate

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2/3 cup (131g) granulated sugar

3 tablespoons (21g) cornstarch

2 tablespoons (11g) unsweetened cocoa

1 teaspoon espresso powder (optional)

1/8 teaspoon salt

1 cup (227g) heavy cream

3 large egg yolks

2 cups (454g) milk

Topping

1 cup (227g) heavy cream

¼ cup (28g) confectioners’ sugar

½ teaspoon vanilla extract

To make the filling: Place the butter, chopped chocolate, and vanilla extract in a 2-quart mixing bowl; set aside.

In a medium saucepan off the heat, whisk together the sugar, cornstarch, cocoa, espresso powder, and salt. Add ½ cup (113g) of the heavy cream, whisking until the mixture is smooth and lump-free. Whisk in the egg yolks.

Place the saucepan over medium heat, and gradually whisk in the remaining ½ cup (113g) cream and milk. Bring to a boil, whisking constantly as the mixture thickens; boil for 1 minute. The temperature of the mixture will be around 200°F after 1 minute.

Remove the pan from the heat and pour the mixture over the reserved chocolate and butter. Whisk until the chocolate is melted and the mixture is smooth.

Pass the filling through a strainer into a bowl to remove any lumps. You can use the back of a ladle, a flexible spatula, or a wooden spoon to stir it through the strainer. Scrape the underside of the strainer once in a while with a clean spatula to help the process along.

Place plastic wrap or buttered parchment paper on the surface to prevent a skin from forming, and chill thoroughly. A shallow metal bowl with more surface area will chill the filling most quickly.

To make the topping: Place the heavy cream in a chilled mixing bowl. Whip until the whisk or beaters begin to leave tracks in the bowl.

Add the sugar and vanilla and whip until the cream holds a medium peak.

To assemble: Spoon the cooled filling into the cooled, baked pie crust. Level the top with the back of a spoon or an offset spatula. Spoon or pipe the whipped cream on top. If you’re not planning on serving the entire pie at once, top individual slices with a dollop of whipped cream just before serving.

Chill the pie until ready to serve. For best slicing, refrigerate the pie overnight before serving.

Nutrition information per serving: 1 slice, 146g

Banana Cream Pie

One 9^″ pie

Banana cream pie is an absolute standard in the world of pies. Many shortcut versions rely on a graham cracker crust and vanilla pudding, but this—our favorite version—pairs a real pastry crust with homemade cream filling, for what we believe will be your best banana cream pie experience yet! While it’s optional, of course, freshly whipped cream is a wonderful complement to this pie.

one 9^″ single pie crust (see pages 358–369), blind baked

½ cup (99g) sugar

2 tablespoons (15g) unbleached all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons (14g) cornstarch

½ teaspoon salt

2 large eggs

2 cups (454g) milk

6 tablespoons (¾ stick, 85g) unsalted butter, softened

½ teaspoon vanilla or almond extract

2 medium bananas, sliced ½^″ thick

To make the filling: In a medium heatproof bowl, whisk the sugar, flour, cornstarch, salt, and eggs together. In a medium saucepan, bring the milk just to a boil. Add the hot milk to the egg mixture gradually, whisking continually to make everything smooth. Return the egg / milk mixture to the saucepan, and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens and starts to boil; this will happen quite quickly, so don’t leave the stove. As soon as you see the pastry cream boil in the center, remove it from the heat and stir in the butter and vanilla or almond extract.

To assemble: Place the sliced bananas into the prebaked crust. Spoon the hot pastry cream over the bananas, smooth out the surface, and cover it with plastic wrap or a piece of parchment. Chill in the refrigerator until completely cold. Give it at least 6 hours; overnight is preferable. As the pie chills, the filling will thicken and set.

Nutrition information per serving: 1 slice, 179g

Lemon Meringue Pie

One 9^″ pie

No pie lineup would be complete without lemon meringue, with its perfect combination of opposites—tart lemon with sweet meringue, flaky crust meeting smooth filling.

one 9^″ single pie crust (see pages 358–369), blind baked

Lemon Filling

6 tablespoons (42g) cornstarch

1 1/3 cups (302g) water

1½ cups (298g) sugar

3 large egg yolks, slightly beaten

3 tablespoons (42g) butter

1 tablespoon lemon zest

½ cup (112g) fresh lemon juice (from 2 large lemons)

Meringue

3 egg whites, at room temperature

¼ teaspoon cream of tartar

6 tablespoons (77g) sugar

To make the filling: In a medium saucepan, dissolve the cornstarch in the water. Add the sugar. Cook over medium heat, stirring, until the mixture thickens and comes to a boil. Boil, stirring, for 1 minute. Remove the pan from the heat and gradually add half of the hot mixture to the slightly beaten egg yolks. Blend the hot egg yolk mixture into the remaining filling in the pan and return the pan to the stove. Simmer the mixture, stirring, for 1 minute. Remove the pan from the heat. Stir in the butter, lemon zest, and lemon juice. Spoon the filling into the baked shell.

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

To make the meringue: In a large bowl, beat together the egg whites and cream of tartar until foamy. Gradually beat in the sugar, continuing to beat until the meringue is fairly stiff and glossy.

Spread the meringue atop the hot pie filling, using a knife to spread it completely over the surface of the pie. Make sure it’s touching the crust all around; this will help to keep it from shrinking. (As for weeping, that’s up to the weather; meringue pies almost always weep in hot, humid weather. As do we all. Adding cornstarch can help, see Mastering Meringue on the next page.

Bake the pie for 8 to 10 minutes, or until the meringue is golden brown. Remove it from the oven, and cool completely before serving.

Nutrition information per serving: 1 slice, 109g

MASTERING Meringue

An ideal meringue is light, sweet, and holds up well, with no shrinking and little weeping.

Meringues consist of whipped egg whites and sugar. To make a meringue, you need a clean, non-plastic mixing bowl with no traces of fat in it. Any speck of fat in the bowl will coat the ends of the egg white’s protein and that will cut the ability of the whites to hold air by more than half, so be sure yours is very clean. It’s helpful to have your egg whites at room temperature (this gives them lower surface tension, and makes it easier to incorporate air). Many recipes call for salt and/or cream of tartar; these help to increase the holding power of the egg whites.

You can either use a whisk (and some elbow grease), or your electric mixer. The advantage to making meringue by hand (at least once) is that you become familiar with the stages that the whites go through. At first you have a puddle of clear liquid with some large bubbles. As you continue beating, the liquid becomes white with many smaller bubbles. Then the whisk begins to leave tracks in the whites. To test their progress, pull your whisk or beaters straight up out of the foam. If a point forms and then falls over immediately, you’ve got a soft peak. From here, 15 to 20 more strokes will bring you to a medium peak, and another 15 to 20 to stiff peaks.

It’s extremely easy to overbeat meringue. When you start to see what look like grainy white clumps, you’re beyond stiff peaks, and every stroke of the whisk or beater is tearing apart the network of air, water, and protein you’ve worked so hard to create. You’ll also see a pool of clear liquid under the foam. You can still use that foam on top, but you can’t really fix it completely other than to start over with new egg whites.

What about sugar? Sugar has two properties that affect egg whites. It, too, will coat the ends of the proteins in the whites, but if it’s added too soon, it will take much longer to make a meringue stiff enough to be piped. If you’re beating by hand, don’t add the sugar until you’ve reached the medium-peak stage. If you’re using a machine, start sprinkling sugar into the meringue after it gets to soft peaks. With a machine, the sugar will help give you a little extra leeway; you can go longer without overbeating the whites. For each egg white, use 2 tablespoons (25g) of sugar to make a soft meringue. Regular granulated sugar will work, but we advise the use of superfine that dissolves more quickly, making the meringue less grainy. For a stiffer meringue, use more sugar; up to 4 tablespoons (50g) per white.

Add ¾ teaspoon cornstarch per white with the sugar to keep it from “weeping” (exuding liquid) after baking, although if you’re in very hot, humid conditions, weeping is inevitable. Be sure to fully cover your pie surface: 3 egg whites will give you plenty of meringue to cover a 9^″ pie. If you’re after a mile-high version, use 4 whites.

For finishing a pie, if your topping is between 1½^″ and 2^″ high, bake in a preheated oven at 350°F for 20 to 25 minutes, until the meringue is golden brown. If you’re going for height, preheat to 300°F and bake for 35 to 45 minutes, to allow the meringue to cook through in the center.

Classic Key Lime Pie

One 9^″ pie

Creamy, tart, and sweet! Our ultimate version of the classic pie balances a lusciously smooth citrus filling with a nutty graham cracker crust. Emphasize the tropical vibe by adding 1/3 to ½ cup (35g to 53g) of toasted coconut to the crust if you like.

Crust

1½ cups (128g) graham cracker crumbs

¼ cup (28g) confectioners’ sugar

1/8 teaspoon salt

5 tablespoons (74g) unsalted butter, melted

Filling

zest of 1 medium lime

3 large egg yolks

1¼ cups (14 ounces, 397g) sweetened condensed milk

2/3 cup (152g) bottled Key lime juice or freshly squeezed lime juice

1/8 to ¼ teaspoon lime oil (optional)

Select a pie pan whose inside top dimension is at least 9^″ and whose height is at least 1¼^″. Preheat the oven to 325°F.

Stir together all the crust ingredients, mixing until thoroughly combined. Press the crumbs into the bottom and up the sides of the pie pan.

Bake the pie crust for 15 minutes; it’ll start to darken in color a bit. Remove it from the oven and place it on a rack to cool while you make the filling.

Whisk the grated lime zest and egg yolks at high speed of an electric mixer for about 4 minutes. The mixture will lighten in color and thicken somewhat, looking kind of like hollandaise sauce.

Stir in the sweetened condensed milk, mixing until smooth. Beat at high speed for 3 minutes; the filling will become slightly thicker and gain a bit of volume.

Add the lime juice, stirring just to combine. The mixture will thicken. Add lime oil to taste, if using.

Pour the mixture into the crust and return the pie to the oven. Bake for about 25 minutes, until it appears set around the edges, but still a bit wobbly in the center. The center should read about 145°F.

Remove the pie from the oven, and cool to room temperature. Refrigerate for several hours before serving.

Nutrition information per serving: 1 slice, 103g

Lemon Chess Pie

One 9^″ pie

Chess pie? No one seems certain where the name for this type of pie comes from. A simple combination of eggs, sugar, and butter, with the tiniest bit of flour or cornmeal for thickening, chess pies appeared in print as early as the late nineteenth century. Whatever its provenance, this lemon version of a simple chess pie is perfect for lemon lovers. This humble pie has no meringue to hide beneath; it’s just citrus at its simple best.

Crust

1½ cups (180g) unbleached all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon (13g) buttermilk powder (optional)

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon baking powder

¼ cup (43g) vegetable shortening

4 tablespoons (½ stick, 57g) butter

3 to 5 tablespoons (43g to 71g) ice water

Filling

1 tablespoon (10g) cornmeal

1½ tablespoons (11g) cornstarch

1 2/3 cups (330g) sugar

½ teaspoon salt

6 tablespoons (¾ stick, 85g) unsalted butter, melted

¾ cup (170g) fresh lemon juice (from about 3 lemons)

5 large eggs

To make the crust: Whisk together all the dry ingredients. Work in the shortening until it’s well combined. Slice the butter into pats and add it to the flour mixture, working it in until it’s unevenly crumbly, with some larger pieces of butter remaining.

Sprinkle 3 tablespoons (43g) of the water over the dough while tossing with a fork. Just as soon as the dough becomes cohesive (i.e., you can squeeze it into a ball easily), stop mixing; there should still be visible pieces of fat in the dough. Add up to 2 additional tablespoons (28g) water, if necessary, to make the dough come together.

Flatten the dough into a disk and wrap it in plastic wrap. Refrigerate for 30 minutes or longer; this resting period allows the flour to absorb the water and the gluten to relax, making the dough easier to roll out.

Freezing for Extended Shelf Life

Because freezing expands and contracts the water in a pie crust, which tends to break down its structure, crusts that freeze most successfully are made with a significant amount of fat, which remains more stable when frozen.

Pie shells can be frozen both unbaked and baked. If you freeze them unbaked, freeze them right in a pie plate. After they’re solid, remove them, stack, and seal them in an airtight plastic bag.

Baked crusts can also be frozen the same way unbaked crusts are, in the pan and then removed to an airtight plastic bag. Frozen pie crusts are great to have on hand.

To freeze a whole fruit pie (don’t try this with custard or cream pies—they’ll become watery), prepare it up to the point of baking, but instead of putting it in the oven, wrap it well with plastic wrap. Then add a full wrapping of foil or a zippered plastic bag, just for insurance. Put the pie in the freezer, even if it’s just overnight. When you’re ready to bake it, don’t defrost. Preheat the oven to 425°F, unwrap the pie, and pop it in the oven. Bake it at 425°F for 15 minutes, then lower the oven temperature to 350°F and bake for another 45 to 55 minutes, until the crust is brown and the filling is bubbly. Freezing the pie, even if only overnight (rather than refrigerating it) gives you much more latitude in your choice of when to bake and serve it.

Flour your work surface and roll the dough into a 12^{̋ x}9^″ (approximately) rectangle. If it isn’t holding together well, sprinkle it lightly with a couple of teaspoons of water. Fold the dough into thirds (like a letter), then fold it into thirds the opposite way, to form a rough square. Wrap it well and refrigerate again.

When you’re “ready to roll,” remove the dough from the fridge. Dough made with a combination of butter and shortening should rest for about 5 minutes at room temperature before rolling; dough made with all butter will need a 15-minute rest.

Roll the dough to a 12^″ to 13^″ circle and settle it gently into a 9^″ pie pan; the pan shouldn’t be over 1½^″ deep. Flute or crimp the edge of the crust as desired. Place the crust in the refrigerator (no need to cover it) while you make the filling.

To make the filling: Whisk together the cornmeal, cornstarch, sugar, and salt. Stir in the melted butter, then the lemon juice.

Whisk together the eggs briefly, then add them to the filling, stirring until everything is well combined.

Pour the filling into the chilled pie shell.

Bake the pie on the bottom shelf of a preheated 375°F oven for 45 to 50 minutes, or until the center is set. The top should be golden brown.

Remove the pie from the oven and allow it to cool before cutting and serving.

Nutrition information per serving: 1 slice, 146g

Pumpkin Pie

One 9^″ pie

Everyone has a favorite version of this Thanksgiving classic. This is ours—it’s the one people request again and again. Mixing the filling a day in advance vastly improves this pie’s flavor.

½ cup (99g) granulated sugar

½ cup (107g) brown sugar

1 tablespoon (8g) unbleached all-purpose flour

½ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon cinnamon

1 teaspoon ginger

1/8 teaspoon cloves

1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper (optional)

3 large eggs

2 cups (one 15-ounce can, 425g) pumpkin purée

1¼ cups (284g) light cream or evaporated milk

one 9^″ single pie crust (see pages 358–369)

In a large bowl, whisk together the sugars, flour, salt, and spices.

In a large measuring cup, beat together the eggs, pumpkin, and cream or evaporated milk. Whisk into the dry ingredients. For best flavor, cover and refrigerate the filling overnight before baking.

Lightly grease a 9^″ pie pan that’s at least 1½^″ deep. Roll the pie dough out to a 13^″ circle, and transfer to the pan. Crimp the edges above the rim; this will give you a little extra headroom to hold the filling when it expands in the oven. Refrigerate the crust while the oven preheats to 400°F.

When the oven is hot, place the pie pan on a baking sheet to catch any drips. Pour the filling into the unbaked pie shell.

Bake for 45 to 50 minutes, until the filling is set 2^″ in from the edge. The center should still be wobbly. Remove the pie from the oven and cool on a rack; the center will finish cooking through as the pie sits.

Variation

Masala Pumpkin Pie: Decrease cinnamon to ½ teaspoon, increase cloves to ¼ teaspoon and black pepper to ½ teaspoon. Add ½ teaspoon each ground coriander and turmeric, and ¼ teaspoon each cardamom and cumin to the filling.

Nutrition information per serving: 1 slice, 172g

Chocolate Icebox Pie

One 9^″ pie

With a graham cracker crust and simple no-bake chocolate cream filling, this pie is a snap to put together in the high heat of summer.

Crust

1¼ cups (177g) graham cracker crumbs

¼ cup (50g) granulated sugar

½ teaspoon cinnamon (optional)

5 tablespoons (71g) unsalted butter, melted

Filling

1/3 cup (74g) water, hot

2 tablespoons (11g) Dutch-process cocoa

1 tablespoon (14g) vanilla extract

1 1/3 cups (227g) bittersweet chocolate chips or chunks

1½ cups (340g) heavy cream

1 tablespoon (14g) granulated sugar

1/8 teaspoon salt

Topping

1 cup (227g) heavy cream

2 tablespoons (14g) confectioners’ sugar

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Lightly grease a 9^″ pie pan.

To make the crust: Combine the ingredients and press the mixture into the bottom and up the sides of the pan. Freeze the crust for 15 minutes (this will prevent overbrowning), then bake for 8 to 10 minutes, until it’s lightly browned around the edges. Remove from the oven and cool completely.

To make the filling: Combine the hot water, cocoa, and vanilla in a small measuring cup and set aside.

Heat the chocolate in a saucepan set over low heat on the stove, or in the microwave in 20-second bursts. Stir the chocolate until completely melted, and let cool for several minutes.

Whip the cream, sugar, and salt with a hand or stand mixer until soft peaks form.

Stir the cocoa mixture into the melted chocolate.

Using a whisk, fold the chocolate mixture into the whipped cream until no white streaks remain.

Spread the filling evenly into the cooled crust.

Refrigerate the pie for at least 1 hour before serving, or until the filling is firm.

To make the topping: Whip the cream and sugar together until the mixture is as firm (or soft) as you like. Slice the pie and serve with a dollop of the whipped cream.

Nutrition information per serving: 1 slice, 153g

Pumpkin Cheesecake Pie

One 9^″ pie

With its layers of sweetly spicy pumpkin and smooth, rich cheesecake nestled in a buttery crust, this pie has won over many a traditional pumpkin pie enthusiast. We suggest you make room for it on your Thanksgiving table.

one 9^″ single pie crust (see pages 358–369) or gingersnap crust (page 370), blind baked

Cheesecake Filling

1 cup (8 ounces, 227g) cream cheese, softened

1/3 cup (65g) sugar

1 large egg, lightly beaten

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

¼ cup (46g) diced crystallized ginger (optional, but good)

Pumpkin Filling

½ cup (99g) sugar

¼ teaspoon salt

¾ teaspoon ginger

¾ teaspoon cinnamon

¼ teaspoon nutmeg

¼ teaspoon allspice

1 cup (266g) pumpkin purée

2/3 cup (151g) light cream or evaporated milk

2 large eggs, lightly beaten

To make the cheesecake filling: In a medium bowl, place the cream cheese and let it warm to room temperature (this will make it easier to beat). When it has warmed, add the sugar and beat until fairly smooth. It may appear grainy, or a few lumps may remain; that’s OK. Stir in the egg, vanilla, and ginger (if using) and spoon the filling into the pie crust.

To make the pumpkin filling: In a medium bowl, whisk together the sugar, salt, and spices. Add the pumpkin, cream, and eggs and whisk gently until smooth. (You don’t want to beat a lot of air into this mixture; just be sure it’s thoroughly combined.) Gently spoon the pumpkin filling atop the cheesecake layer, filling to within ¼^″ of the top of the crust. Do this carefully at first, so you don’t disturb the cheesecake layer; once you’ve covered the cheesecake, you can be less careful. Depending on the depth of your pie pan, you may have leftover filling. Simply pour it into a custard cup or other small baking dish and bake it along with the pie, removing it from the oven when it appears set and a cake tester or toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean.

If you’re using a pastry pie crust, place the pie in a preheated 425°F oven and bake it for 15 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 350°F and continue to bake for 40 to 45 minutes, covering the edges of the pie with a crust shield or aluminum foil if it seems to be browning too quickly. If you’ve prepared the pie with a gingersnap crust, bake it in a preheated 350°F oven for 50 to 60 minutes. The pie is done when it looks set but still wobbles a bit in the center when you jiggle it. (If you have a digital thermometer, the pie will register 165°F at its center when it’s done.) Remove the pie from the oven, allow it to cool to room temperature, then refrigerate it until serving time. Serve with lightly sweetened whipped cream flavored with a pinch of ginger and a teaspoon of vanilla extract.

Nutrition information per serving: 1 slice, 118g

Old-Fashioned Pecan Pie

One 9^″ pie

Sticky, gooey, toasty, nutty, sweet and salty, flaky and smooth—what other pie combines all the “opposites attract” attributes of a pecan pie? The flaky tender crust cradles a smooth, deep golden brown, ultra-sweet filling tempered by the addition of toasted pecans. We love this version as it has all the traditional flavors without the addition of corn syrup.

one 9^″ single pie crust (see pages 358–369)

8 tablespoons (1 stick, 113g) unsalted butter

¼ cup (30g) unbleached all-purpose flour

2 1/8 cups (456g) light brown sugar

½ teaspoon salt

6 tablespoons (85g) milk

3 large eggs, whisked briefly to combine

2 teaspoons vinegar

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

½ cup (57g) diced pecans

1 cup (113g) pecan halves

Preheat the oven to 375°F.

Roll out the pastry and place it in a greased 9^″ pie plate. Flute the edges decoratively.

Melt the butter and set it aside to cool.

In a large bowl, mix together the flour, brown sugar, and salt. Add the milk and eggs and beat well.

Stir in the vinegar and vanilla, then the butter and diced pecans.

Pour the mixture into the crust and scatter the pecan halves on top.

Bake the pie for 47 to 50 minutes. When done, the top will be puffed up and set, and the center should just barely wobble when you jiggle the pan.

Remove the pie from the oven (the pie will finish setting up as it sits) and cool completely before slicing.

Nutrition information per serving: 1 slice, 140g

Chocolate Pecan Pie

One 9^″ pie

This gooey chocolate pie is traditionally served on Derby Day. The Kentucky Derby—the “run for the roses”—is an early May tradition in Kentucky, and a harbinger of spring for sports lovers all over the country. The crunch of pecans marries beautifully with the sticky, soft, and sweet chocolate filling. Serving each slice with a dollop of unsweetened whipped cream is a very good idea.

one 9^″ single pie crust (see pages 358–369)

2 large eggs, at room temperature

1 cup (198g) sugar

½ teaspoon salt

½ cup (60g) unbleached all-purpose flour

8 tablespoons (1 stick, 113g) unsalted butter, melted and cooled

1 cup (168g) semisweet chocolate chips

1 cup (113g) chopped pecans, lightly toasted

1 tablespoon (14g) bourbon (optional)

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Preheat the oven to 375°F.

Roll out the pastry and place it in a greased 9^″ pie plate. Flute the edges decoratively.

Beat eggs on high speed with an electric mixer until light and pale yellow in color. Gradually beat in the sugar. Reduce speed to low and add the salt, flour, and butter, beating until thoroughly combined. Stir in the chocolate chips and nuts, then bourbon (if using) and vanilla.

Spoon the mixture into the crust. Bake until crust and top are golden brown, about 45 minutes. Serve warm.

Nutrition information per serving: 1 slice, 99g

Tarts and Turnovers

Tarts and turnovers are offshoots of the classic fruit pie. A tart, which can range from full-size to bite-size, is a shallow, straight-sided pastry crust filled with cream and fruit, or fruit alone. A turnover is a half-moon or triangle of crust enclosing fruit filling. Tarts are often baked in removable-bottom pans, for ease of serving as well as a pretty presentation. Unlike pies, which often look rustic in a comforting, overstuffed way, tarts are almost military-looking in their neatness: a straight, even crust, berries lined up in rows like soldiers. Tarts are best served in more formal circumstances (i.e., on a plate, with a fork), as opposed to turnovers, which are the perfect “grab and go” picnic or lunchtime treat.

Berry Cream Tart

One 9^″ or 10^″ tart

You’ll want to reach around and pat yourself on the back once you’ve made this tart. It looks like the centerpiece of a fancy bakery window. The trick to giving it (and any similar fruit dessert) such a polished look is simply brushing warm jam over the top of the berries.

one 9^″ or 10^″ pâte sucrée (page 367), blind baked

Pastry Cream Filling

¼ cup (50g) sugar

1 tablespoon (8g) unbleached all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons cornstarch

¼ teaspoon salt

1 large egg

1 cup (227g) milk

3 tablespoons (42g) butter, softened

¼ teaspoon vanilla or almond extract

Topping

1 pint (284g) strawberries, sliced

1 pint (284g) blueberries

Glaze

½ cup (170g) apricot jam

To make the pastry cream: In a medium heatproof bowl, whisk together the sugar, flour, cornstarch, salt, and egg. In a small (1½-quart) saucepan, bring the milk to a boil. Add the hot milk to the egg mixture gradually, whisking continually to make everything smooth. Pour the liquid back into the saucepan and return to the heat to bring back to a boil. Stir continually with your whisk. (The mixture will thicken quickly and whisking will keep it from getting lumpy.) As soon as you see the pastry cream boil in the center, remove it from the heat and stir in the butter and vanilla or almond extract. Pour the pastry cream into the baked tart shell, place plastic wrap on the surface, and refrigerate. When you’re ready to serve the tart, remove the wrap from the filling and top it with sliced strawberries and blueberries in alternating rows. If you’re not going to serve the tart immediately, add the glaze to keep the berries looking their best.

To make the glaze: Melt the apricot jam, then thin it with a little water if necessary. Strain or scoop out any solids, then brush the glaze over the berries to seal the top of the tart.

Nutrition information per serving: 1 slice, 163g

Salted Caramel and Chocolate Tart

One 9^″ tart

Simple and sophisticated, this tart tastes just as elegant as it looks with many flavors and textures encased inside the tender crust: toasted pecans, smooth caramel, and rich ganache. Can’t find a caramel block? You can substitute individually wrapped caramel candies. You’ll need about 60 of them, and they’ll likely be firmer than the caramel block. To adjust for texture, melt them with ¼ cup (57g) of heavy cream instead of the 2 tablespoons called for below.

Crust

6 tablespoons (¾ stick, 85g) unsalted butter, softened

¼ cup (50g) sugar

¼ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon espresso powder (optional)

3 tablespoons (17g) Dutch-process cocoa

¾ cup (90g) unbleached all-purpose flour

½ cup (40g) pecan meal or ½ cup (48g) almond flour

Caramel Filling

about 1¾ cups (496g) caramel from a block, cut into ½^″ pieces

2 tablespoons (28g) heavy cream

¼ teaspoon salt

1/3 cup (47g) toasted, chopped pecans

Chocolate Filling

½ cup (113g) heavy cream

1 cup (170g) chopped dark chocolate or dark chocolate chips

Topping

1/3 cup (47g) toasted, chopped pecans

flaky sea salt, to finish

To make the crust: Lightly grease a 9^″ tart pan.

In a medium bowl, beat the butter, sugar, salt, and espresso powder together until smooth. Add the cocoa, flour, and pecan meal or almond flour and mix until the dough comes together.

Press the crust into the bottom and up the sides of the prepared pan. Prick the crust all over with a fork, then chill it in the freezer, uncovered, for 15 to 20 minutes or so, while you preheat the oven to 400°F.

Place the tart pan on a baking sheet and bake for 15 to 18 minutes, until you smell chocolate and the crust is set. Remove the crust from the oven and set it aside to cool.

To make the caramel filling: In a medium saucepan, heat the caramel, cream, and salt over medium-low heat, stirring regularly until melted and smooth. Remove from the heat.

Scatter the pecans over the bottom of the cooled crust then pour the caramel over the nuts. Place the caramel-filled tart in the freezer to firm up for 30 minutes.

To make the chocolate filling: Heat the cream in a saucepan or a microwave until it begins to steam. Pour the hot cream over the chocolate in a bowl, let it sit for 5 minutes, then stir until melted and smooth. If necessary, reheat very briefly to soften any remaining hard bits of chocolate.

Pour the chocolate over the firm caramel, and sprinkle with the remaining pecans and flaky sea salt.

Refrigerate the pie for 1 hour or more before serving. It’s best served chilled but not cold; remove the pie from the refrigerator about 15 to 20 minutes before serving.

Nutrition information per serving: 1 slice, 95g

Chocolate Mousse Tart

One 9^″ round or 4½^{̋ x}13¾^″ tart

This beautiful tart boasts both elegant appearance and incredible flavor. Pistachios, almonds, and coconut form the simple (and naturally gluten-free!) crust, which gets filled with a luscious chocolate mousse.

Crust

¾ cup (92g) shelled salted pistachios

¾ cup (71g) almond flour

½ cup (57g) unsweetened shredded coconut

3 tablespoons (43g) butter or vegetable oil (37g)

3 tablespoons (59g) maple syrup

Filling

1 cup (113g) confectioners’ sugar

1 teaspoon Instant ClearJel (optional)

1 cup (227g) heavy cream

1 cup (8 ounces, 227g) cream cheese, softened

2 tablespoons (28g) butter, softened

½ teaspoon almond extract

2/3 cup (113g) chopped bittersweet chocolate

chopped pistachios or almonds, for garnish

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Have on hand a 9^″ round or 4½^{̋ x}13¾^″ rectangular tart pan.

To make the crust: Pulse the pistachios in a food processor. Be careful not to over-process into a paste.

In a medium bowl, combine the ground pistachios with the remaining crust ingredients. Stir until combined and crumbly-looking; it should hold together when you squeeze it. Press the mixture into the pan to cover the bottom and up the sides; the sides should be about ¼^″ thick.

Place the pan on a baking sheet and bake for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the edges are golden brown. Remove from the oven, and let the crust cool completely.

To make the filling: Whisk ¼ cup (28g) of the confectioners’ sugar with the Instant ClearJel (if using). Whip the heavy cream to medium peaks, then add the sugar mixture. Continue whipping the cream until stiff peaks form.

In a medium bowl, combine the remaining confectioners’ sugar with the cream cheese, butter, and almond extract, mixing until smooth. Set aside.

Melt the chocolate in a microwave or over simmering water.

Add the melted chocolate to the cream cheese mixture and beat to combine. Scrape the bowl, then fold the whipped cream mixture into the chocolate / cream cheese until evenly blended.

Pipe the filling into the cooled tart shell. Sprinkle with chopped nuts. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

Nutrition information per serving: 1 piece, 105g

Apple Turnovers

12 turnovers

These lightly spiced pastry treats are reminiscent of apple pie but in a flakier, portable form! Be sure to cut the apples small to make the turnovers easier to fill.

Dough

2 cups (240g) unbleached all-purpose flour, plus ½ cup (60g) for dusting the butter

½ cup (40g) pecan meal

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon baking powder

16 tablespoons (2 sticks, 227g) unsalted butter, frozen

½ cup (112g) sour cream

6 to 8 tablespoons (84g to 113g) water, cold

Filling

2 pounds (4 cups, 907g) cored, peeled apples, cut into ½^″ dice

1/3 cup (67g) sugar

½ teaspoon apple pie spice

1 tablespoon (7g) cornstarch

pinch of salt

1 tablespoon (21g) boiled cider or regular cider

1 tablespoon (14g) lemon juice

1 egg white beaten with 1 tablespoon (14g) water, for glaze

coarse white sugar, for topping

To make the dough: In a medium bowl, whisk together the dry ingredients and place them in the freezer. Unwrap the frozen sticks of butter and press the end of each stick into some of the “dusting” flour. This will help give you a grip on the butter while you’re grating it. If you have a food processor with a medium-to-large shredding disk, use it; if not, use the coarse holes of a box grater to grate the butter by hand into large flakes.

Remove the dry ingredients from the freezer and use your fingers to toss the cold flour / butter together until they’re evenly mixed. Stir the sour cream and cold water together. Add this mixture to the flour and butter. Use a dough scraper or spatula to fold and pat the mixture until it starts to hold together. You’ll be able to see individual chunks of butter, which is OK; they shouldn’t mix in. Pat the dough into a rough rectangle and fold it in thirds, like a letter. Pat it down again until it’s about ½^″ thick and fold in thirds a second time. Divide the dough in half. Place each half in the center of a piece of plastic wrap and form each piece into a 6^″ square. Wrap the squares well and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

Remove one square of dough from the refrigerator and use the dusting flour to heavily flour both sides. Quickly roll the dough into a large (10^{̋ x}12^″) rectangle. Working with opposite shorter sides, fold the dough into thirds.

Use a rolling pin to flatten and widen the dough until it’s about 5^{̋ x}12^″. Again, working with opposite shorter sides (the 5^″ sides), fold the dough into thirds to form a rectangle of about 4^{̋ x}5^″. Return the dough to the refrigerator for 30 minutes, or until it’s firm. Repeat with the remaining piece of dough. The dough may be prepared to this point up to 2 days before using, or up to 1 month before, if kept frozen.

To fill and assemble: Gently mix together the apples, sugar, spice, cornstarch, salt, cider, and lemon juice until well combined.

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

Divide the dough into two pieces; work with one piece at a time, keeping the other refrigerated. Remove one piece of dough from the refrigerator. (If it’s been in the freezer, let it thaw, wrapped, until it’s pliable.) Heavily flour both sides and roll it into a 10^{̋ x}15^″ rectangle.

Cut the dough into six 5^″ squares. Spoon a scant ¼ cup of filling into the center of each square, moisten the edge of the dough, and fold the other half over to make a triangle. Pinch the edges of the triangle together or crimp with a fork and place it on an ungreased baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining pieces of dough. Brush each turnover with the egg white glaze, sprinkle with coarse sugar, prick them to make steam vents, and bake for 20 to 30 minutes, until golden brown. Remove the turnovers from the oven and cool them on a rack.

Nutrition information per serving: 1 turnover, 90g

Variation

Cherry or Blueberry Turnovers: Substitute pitted cherries or blueberries for the apples, omit the cider, and increase the cornstarch to 2 tablespoons (14g). Cook the filling in a saucepan until it thickens, then cool and use to fill the turnovers.

Open-Faced Rustic Berry Pie

One 9^″ pie

Similar to a galette, this simple pie uses a “rustic” method of shaping the crust. All you have to do is roll out a big circle, pile the sugared berries in the middle, and gently fold the edges of the crust in toward the center, leaving about a 4^″ wide circle of berries showing (that’s the open-faced part). The goal is to bring the crust over the berries without tearing it; a crust with holes will allow leakage of the bubbling berry syrup. You can make evenly cut, artful, overlapping folds, or if you don’t have the decorating gene, just flop the dough over the berries as best you can. Either way, it’ll look enticing and delicious.

one 9^″ single pie crust (see pages 358–369)

2/3 cup (133g) sugar

3 tablespoons (21g) quick-cooking tapioca or cornstarch

3 cups (510g) berries, fresh or frozen and thawed

Preheat the oven to 425°F.

Roll the crust into a 12^″ to 13^″ round and transfer the round to a pizza pan or baking sheet; if you use a baking sheet, the crust may (temporarily) hang off the edges, which is OK.

In a medium bowl, blend together the sugar and thickener. Add the berries, tossing to coat.

Mound the sugared berries in the center of the crust, leaving about a 3½^″ margin of bare crust all the way around; the mound of fruit will be quite high. Using a pancake turner or a giant spatula, fold the edges of the crust up over the fruit, leaving 4^″ to 5^″ of fruit exposed in the center.

Bake the pie for about 35 minutes, or until the filling is beginning to bubble and the edges of the crust are brown. Remove it from the oven and let it cool for 15 to 30 minutes before cutting wedges.

Nutrition information per serving: 1 slice, made with raspberries, 116g

Toaster Pastries

16 tarts

Toaster pastries have come a long way since their invention in 1964, from the original cinnamon brown sugar filling in a pastry crust, to the sugary confections in a wide variety of over-the-top flavors crowding the supermarket’s cereal aisle today.

If you want to get back to basics, make your own. You can use several different fillings (we offer two classic versions here) for the amount of crust you’ll have, so feel free to mix and match, and frost or not. The tarts are best eaten within a day or two.

Pastry

8 tablespoons (1 stick, 113g) unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 cup (198g) granulated sugar

1 large egg

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

4 cups (480g) unbleached all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons cream of tartar

½ teaspoon baking soda

½ teaspoon salt

½ cup (113g) milk

Fruit Filling

1¼ cups (406g) thick jam (we like raspberry or strawberry)

¼ cup (30g) unbleached all-purpose flour

Brown Sugar Filling

6 tablespoons (¾ stick, 84g) unsalted butter, softened

3 tablespoons (21g) unbleached all-purpose flour

¾ cup (160g) light brown sugar

1½ teaspoons cinnamon

¼ teaspoon salt

Frosting

2½ tablespoons (35g) water or milk

1¼ cups (142g) confectioners’ sugar

To make the pastry: Cream the butter and sugar together in a large bowl. Add the egg and vanilla and beat well.

In a small bowl, blend the flour, cream of tartar, baking soda, and salt together. Alternately add the flour mixture and the milk to the butter mixture, beating the dough until it’s well blended. Cover with plastic wrap and chill in the refrigerator for several hours, or overnight.

Just before you’re ready to remove the dough from the refrigerator, prepare the filling(s).

To make the filling: Mix the jam and flour together, or combine all the brown sugar–filling ingredients, stirring until smooth. Each filling recipe will make enough to fill all the tarts, so make double the amount of dough if you’re making both batches of filling, or cut the filling ingredients in half.

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

To assemble: When the dough is well chilled, divide it into quarters and roll out each piece separately on a lightly floured work surface into a 12^{̋ x}8^″ rectangle about ¹/16^″ thick. Keep the other dough pieces chilled until you roll them out. Cut each rolled-out piece of dough into eight 3^̋× 4^″ pieces, trimming and discarding any uneven edges as you go.

Place the 3^{̋ x}4^″ rectangles from the first two dough quarters onto lightly greased or parchment-lined baking sheets. With a pastry brush or your finger, lightly moisten the outside edge of each rectangle. Spread slightly more than 1 tablespoon of filling onto each rectangle, leaving about a 1/8^″ border all the way around.

When you’ve rolled and cut the remaining rectangles, place them on top of the bottom halves. Seal each tart all the way around with the flat side of a fork dipped into flour. Prick the top of each filled tart 10 to 12 times, to allow steam to escape. Bake the tarts for 18 to 20 minutes, until lightly golden brown. Remove them from the oven and transfer them to a rack to cool.

To make the frosting: Simply stir the water or milk, ½ tablespoon at a time, into the confectioners’ sugar until the mixture is of a spreadable consistency. Spread the frosting evenly onto the tarts; if you like, sprinkle each tart with some colored sugar for a finishing touch.

Nutrition information per serving: 1 frosted tart made with raspberry jam, 99g

Savory Pies and Quiche

Savory pies might be eclipsed by their sweet brethren most of the time, but they have their distinct charms. The faint chill of a fall day or the definite cold of a winter night demands something comforting and filling. A slice of savory pie, paired with a crisp salad, fills this particular bill just fine.

A different sort of savory pie is the quiche, which can be thought of as a savory custard tart. Originating in France’s Alsace-Lorraine, quiche is nearly as boundless in its variety as fruit pie, containing everything from cheese to meat to vegetables in almost infinite combinations. We like to team a mild cheese, such as Swiss, with more assertive vegetables, such as onions. On the other hand, a vegetable like zucchini teams well with a stronger-tasting cheese, such as sharp cheddar.

Tourtière
(French-Canadian Meat Pie)

One 9^″ pie

This traditional wintertime staple, often eaten with tomato chutney and a green salad, always elicits rave reviews. Feel free to use your favorite double-crust pie recipe, or try the one that follows. It’s not a flaky crust, but it’s very tender and easy to work with.

Crust

¾ cup (168g) lard or ¾ cup (137g) vegetable shortening

1/3 cup (76g) boiling water

2¼ cups (270g) unbleached all-purpose flour

1½ teaspoons baking powder

½ teaspoon salt

Filling

1 to 1½ teaspoons salt

2 cups (454g) water

2½ cups (336g to 392g, 1 large potato) peeled potatoes, cut into ½^″ dice

½ pound (227g) ground beef

½ pound (227g) ground pork

1 cup (112g to 140g, 1 large onion) chopped onion

1 cup (84g to 112g, 1 to 2 celery ribs) chopped celery

2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced

¼ teaspoon cloves

1 teaspoon thyme

½ teaspoon sage

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

To make the crust: Place the lard or shortening in a bowl. Add the boiling water, then stir well to melt the fat. Add the flour, baking powder, and salt and mix with a spoon or electric mixer to make a smooth dough. Scrape half the dough out of the bowl onto a piece of plastic wrap, form it into a disk, and wrap well. Repeat with the remaining dough and refrigerate both dough disks while preparing the filling.

To make the filling: Put the salt, water, and potatoes in a medium saucepan and bring the mixture to a boil over medium heat. Boil until the potatoes are fork-tender, then drain them, saving the water.

In a large frying pan, brown the meat, draining off any excess fat when finished. Add the onion, celery, garlic, spices, and potato water to the meat. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer. Stirring occasionally, continue simmering the mixture for 30 minutes or longer, until the liquid has evaporated and the vegetables are tender.

Mash about half of the potato chunks and add them to the meat. Gently stir in the remaining chunks of potato. Remove the mixture from the heat and let it cool to room temperature.

To assemble: Preheat the oven to 450°F. Take one piece of dough out of the refrigerator, unwrap it, and dust both sides with flour. Roll it out to about ¼^″ thick (or less if you prefer a thinner crust). Line a 9^″ pie pan with the dough and fill it with the cooled meat mixture. Roll out the remaining dough disk and place it over the filling. Trim the excess from the dough and crimp the edges together with a fork or your fingers.

Bake the pie for 15 minutes. Reduce the oven heat to 350°F and bake for an additional 30 minutes, until the pie is golden brown. Let the pie cool for at least 15 minutes before slicing.

Nutrition information per serving: 1 slice, 212g

Classic Chicken Pot Pie

One 9^{̋ x}13^″ pot pie

A very good chicken pot pie is one of the most comforting foods we know. The creamy filling plays a nice textural contrast against the flaky pastry crust. If you like, you can swap turkey for the chicken. If you’d like to use fresh uncooked vegetables rather than frozen, increase the amount of stock to 3 to 3½ cups (720g to 840g).

Crust

1½ cups (180g) all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon (13g) buttermilk powder (optional)

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon baking powder

4 tablespoons (½ stick, 57g) unsalted butter

¼ cup (43g) vegetable shortening

1 teaspoon white or cider vinegar

4 to 5 tablespoons (57g to 71g) ice water

Filling

6 tablespoons (¾ stick, 85g) unsalted butter

6 tablespoons (43g) unbleached all-purpose flour

2½ cups (567g) chicken stock

6 to 7 cups (794g to 907g) boneless, skinless cooked chicken, cut into 1^″ pieces

¼ teaspoon salt

freshly ground black pepper to taste

16 ounces (448g) frozen peas and carrots

8 ounces (224g) frozen pearl onions (use double the amount if you prefer)

To make the crust: Combine the flour, buttermilk powder (if using), salt, and baking powder, then mix in the butter and shortening until crumbly, leaving some pea-size lumps.

Mix the vinegar with 4 tablespoons (57g) of the water. Sprinkle onto the dry ingredients, stir, and squeeze the dough together; if it’s not totally cohesive, add an additional tablespoon (14g) of water (enough to make the dough stick together nicely, without crumbling).

Shape the dough into a flattened rectangle, wrap it in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

To make the filling: Preheat the oven to 375ºF. Heat the butter until melted, then stir in the flour. Gradually pour in the stock, whisking constantly. Cook and stir the sauce over medium heat until it comes to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes.

Stir in the chicken and salt. Add pepper and additional salt to taste, and the vegetables. Spoon the filling into a 9^{̋ x}13^″ (2- to 3-quart, or similar size) deep casserole dish.

Roll the crust out slightly larger than the dish. Place it on top of the filling; cut several vent holes, and use any scraps of dough to decorate.

Bake the pie for 50 to 60 minutes, until the crust is golden brown and the filling is bubbly.

Nutrition information per serving: 1¼ cups, 309g

Fresh Tomato Tarts

2 large tarts

These light tarts are perfect for showcasing ripe summer tomatoes. Consider this recipe to be a light quiche, ideal for an appetizer, brunch, or lunch.

Crust

2 cups (240g) unbleached all-purpose flour

½ cup (4 ounces, 113g) cream cheese

½ to ¾ teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons (25g) buttermilk powder (optional)

10 tablespoons (142g) unsalted butter, cold

3 to 4 tablespoons (43g to 57g) ice water

Filling

6 large eggs, beaten

1½ cups (340g) milk

1 cup (113g) grated cheddar cheese

¼ teaspoon dried oregano

¼ teaspoon dried thyme

½ teaspoon salt

2 medium (340 to 397g) tomatoes, cut in ¼^″ thick slices

To make the crust: Put the flour in a mixing bowl, or in the bowl of a food processor. Add the cream cheese, salt, and buttermilk powder (if using). Mix together until everything is evenly crumbly. If you’re using a food processor, just a few quick pulses are all you’ll need.

Cut the cold butter into pieces and work it into the flour, leaving some visible pieces.

Sprinkle the dough with the cold water and toss. Squeeze the dough to determine if it holds together. If it’s too dry, add water 1 tablespoon (14g) at a time, using just enough so the dough will hold together.

Divide the dough in half, to make two 9^″ tarts. Flatten each piece of dough into a disk, wrap well, and refrigerate for 30 minutes or longer.

Once chilled, roll each piece of dough to a 12^″ diameter.

Gently place the rolled-out pastry in the tart pan, smoothing it over the bottom and tucking it into the sides. Roll your rolling pin across the top of the pan to cut off the excess pastry. Peel the pastry away from the edge of the pan. You can bake these trimmings along with the tarts for a crunchy snack (baker’s treat!).

Refrigerate the crusts while you prepare the filling.

To make the filling: Preheat the oven to 425°F. Whisk together the eggs, milk, cheese, herbs, and salt. Divide the mixture between the two chilled shells. Lay the sliced tomatoes on top.

Bake in the preheated 425°F oven for 15 minutes, then reduce the oven temperature to 350°F and bake for another 10 to 15 minutes, until the crust is brown and the custard is set. Remove from the oven, and serve warm.

Nutrition information per serving: 1 slice, 107g

Savory Zucchini Galette

One 8^″ to 10^″ galette

With its tender crust and savory cheese and herb filling, this summery galette can be served in fat wedges as the main course for a warm-weather picnic; in smaller slices as a starter to a summer dinner, or in thin slivers as hors d’oeuvres for a cocktail party. The cheese powder in the crust is optional, but adds a wonderful depth of flavor to complement the cheese in the filling.

Crust

1½ cups (159g) unbleached pastry flour or 1½ cups (180g) unbleached all-purpose flour

¼ cup (28g) Vermont cheddar cheese powder (optional)

½ teaspoon salt

8 tablespoons (1 stick, 113g) unsalted butter, cold

5 to 6 tablespoons (71g to 85g) water, cold

Filling

1 large (340 to 397g) zucchini, sliced into ¼^″-thick disks

2 teaspoons pizza seasoning or other dried herb and spice blend

½ pint cherry or grape tomatoes, halved

¾ cup (170g) ricotta cheese

¼ teaspoon salt

freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1 teaspoon fresh lemon zest (optional)

1 large egg

½ cup (57g) grated Parmesan cheese

Egg Wash

1 large egg, beaten with 1 tablespoon water

To make the crust: Whisk together the dry ingredients. Work in the butter until the mixture is crumbly. Drizzle in 5 tablespoons (71g) of water, stirring gently until everything is evenly moistened. Add the final tablespoon (14g) of water if necessary to make a cohesive dough.

Pat the dough into a disk, wrap, and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

To make the filling: Preheat the oven to 425°F. Lightly grease (or line with parchment) two baking sheets.

Place the zucchini slices on one pan and sprinkle with 1½ teaspoons pizza seasoning.

Place the tomato halves on the second pan and sprinkle with the remaining pizza seasoning.

Roast the zucchini and tomatoes until tender, about 15 to 20 minutes for the zucchini and 10 to 15 minutes for the tomatoes.

Remove the zucchini and tomatoes from the oven and allow to cool for 10 minutes.

Combine the ricotta, salt, pepper, lemon zest, and egg until evenly blended. Set aside.

To assemble the galette: On a lightly floured work surface, roll the dough into a 12^″ circle. Transfer the dough to a parchment-lined baking sheet.

Spread the ricotta mixture over the dough, leaving a 2^″-wide bare strip along the perimeter.

Sprinkle half the Parmesan over the ricotta, then shingle the zucchini slices over the cheese and scatter the tomato halves on top.

Fold the bare edges of the dough into the center.

Brush the exposed edges of the crust with egg wash and sprinkle the remaining Parmesan over the whole galette.

Bake the galette for 25 to 30 minutes, until the crust is golden brown and the filling is bubbling.

Remove the galette from the oven and allow it to cool for 5 to 10 minutes before serving.

Nutrition information per serving: 1 slice, 153g

Basic Vegetable Quiche

One 9^″ quiche

This is a wonderful master recipe to make use of any manner of vegetables you have on hand. We find that cooking vegetables before using them in quiche results in better flavor; this is true of all vegetables except tomatoes, which can be used raw but do need to be seeded and squeezed fairly dry. Slice or dice vegetables, then sauté in a bit of olive oil until lightly browned, seasoning sparingly with salt and less sparingly with pepper. Drain, cool, and add to quiche custard.

Alternatively, you can roast your vegetables in a 400°F oven for about 1 hour, or in a cooler oven for a longer amount of time, until golden. This is an ideal method for cooking lots of vegetables at once; use what you want in quiche, then save the rest for pasta sauce or as a delicious dish in themselves.

one 9^″ single pie crust (see pages 358–369)

1 cup (113g) grated cheese, plus more for topping

1½ cups (340g) buttermilk or whole milk

3 large eggs

3 tablespoons (23g) unbleached all-purpose flour

½ teaspoon salt

½ to 1 teaspoon dried herbs (such as basil, thyme, oregano, marjoram)

1 teaspoon minced garlic (optional)

2 cups sautéed or roasted vegetables

Preheat the oven to 425°F.

Roll out pie crust and fit it into a 9^″ pie or 10^″ tart pan. Trim edges and crimp decoratively. Sprinkle with a thin layer of the cheese; this seals the crust, preventing it from becoming soggy. Set aside.

In a mixing bowl, combine buttermilk, eggs, flour, and salt. Beat until well mixed. Stir in herbs, garlic, vegetables, and cheese.

Pour vegetable mixture into prepared crust. Sprinkle with additional cheese, if desired. Bake on the bottom rack for 15 minutes, then reduce heat to 350°F and bake an additional 35 to 40 minutes, or until the crust is golden brown. Remove from the oven and cool completely on a rack before slicing.

Nutrition information per serving: 1 slice, without extra cheese, 162g

Quiche Lorraine

One 9^″ or 10^″ quiche

Quiche Lorraine, a rich, eggy cheese custard cradling bacon, eggs, ham, and chives in a golden crust, made an elegant splash in the fifties. Like pizza, its popularity in this country sprang from returning World War II veterans, who’d enjoyed it in France—particularly Paris, once that city was liberated. The notion of quiche was a simple leap from pie (which was common among home bakers at the time); it was no big deal to change the filling from sweet to savory.

Cold quiche makes a wonderfully elegant lunch alongside a simple salad. You can prepare it whole, or make individual quiches in the cups of a muffin pan.

one 9^″ single pie crust (see pages 358–369)

¼ pound bacon (about 5 slices, 113g), diced

½ large (84g to 112g, a generous ¾ cup) onion, diced

¼ pound ham (a generous 3 cups, 113g), diced

1 cup (227g) milk

1 cup (227g) heavy cream

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 large eggs

2 tablespoons fresh chives

1 cup (113g) grated Swiss, Gruyère, or sharp cheddar cheese

Roll out the pastry dough to a circle 2^″ to 3^″ larger than the pan you’re using. Place the crust into a lightly greased 9^″ pie pan or 10^″ tart or quiche pan. Build up the edges of the crust by folding excess dough under and then crimping it. Prick the bottom with a fork every 2^″. Brush with lightly beaten egg white; this will help the crust remain crisp. Grease a sheet of foil and place it, greased side down, on top of the crust. Using another pie pan or pie weights, partially blind bake the crust in a preheated 425°F oven for 15 minutes. Set the crust aside. Turn the oven down to 350°F.

To make the filling: Sauté the bacon until crisp. Pour off as much fat as possible, then add the onion and cook until soft. Add the ham and brown slightly. Remove from the heat and set aside.

In a medium saucepan, heat the milk and cream with the salt and pepper until the mixture is just below a simmer. Remove from the heat. Add some of the hot cream to the eggs, beat well, then stir the hot cream / egg mixture into the hot cream.

Layer the bacon mixture into the baked pie shell. Pour the egg / cream mixture into the shell, then sprinkle with chives and cheese.

Bake the quiche for 35 to 40 minutes. Be careful not to overbake it or it will be watery; the quiche is done when a knife inserted 2^″ from the edge comes out clean, but the center is still wobbly. The temperature should register 160°F to 165°F on a digital thermometer. Don’t be tempted to turn up the oven if the quiche seems to be taking a long time; the time from not sufficiently cooked to overbaked is short. Allow the quiche to cool for 15 minutes before serving.

Nutrition information per serving: 1 slice, 201g

Roasted Butternut Squash and Spinach Quiche

One 9^″ quiche

We’ve taken our favorite fall flavors and folded them into a quiche filling. Roasting the butternut squash ahead of time elevates its earthy flavor, and balsamic vinegar adds a tangy-sweet touch.

one 9^″ single pie crust (see pages 358–369)

1 medium-large (227g) yellow onion, peeled

2 tablespoons (25g) olive oil

1 tablespoon (14g) balsamic vinegar

1½ cups (213g) cubed butternut squash

1 cup (227g) whole milk

5 large eggs

1 tablespoon fresh rosemary, chopped, or 1 teaspoon dried rosemary

½ teaspoon fresh thyme or ¼ teaspoon dried thyme

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 cup (113g) grated cheddar cheese

1 cup (28g) chopped fresh baby spinach

Preheat the oven to 375°F.

Roll the prepared crust into a 12^″ circle and press it gently into a 9^″ pie pan. Prick it all over with a fork. Bake the crust for 10 minutes, then remove it from the oven and set it aside to cool.

To make the filling: Quarter the onion and slice thinly. In a medium saucepan over medium-low heat, heat 1 tablespoon (12g) of the olive oil. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until caramelized and deep golden brown. This will take about 20 minutes. Right before the onion finishes cooking, add the balsamic vinegar to the pan and cook for a few more minutes.

While the onion is caramelizing, spread the cubed butternut squash on a parchment-lined baking sheet and toss it with the remaining olive oil, along with a couple of good dashes of salt and pepper. Roast the squash until it starts to brown and soften; this should take about the same amount of time as the onions (about 20 minutes).

In a large bowl, whisk together the milk and eggs. Add the rosemary, thyme, salt, and pepper. Add the caramelized onions, roasted squash, grated cheese, and baby spinach. Pour the mixture into the pie crust. Don’t overfill! If you find you have too much filling, just leave a little out (you can always bake the extra alongside the quiche in a custard cup or oven-safe ramekin).

Bake the quiche for about 40 to 45 minutes. The edges should be golden brown and the center should feel just set.

Remove the quiche from the oven and let it cool on a rack. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Nutrition information per serving: 1 slice, 162g

—CHAPTER NINE—

A Pie Primer

Flour

Salt

Sugar

Buttermilk, Vinegar, or Lemon Juice

Eggs or Egg Yolks

Fat

Chill the Dough

Salted vs. Unsalted Butter

Water

Basic Pie Crust

Medium-Flake Method

Short-Flake Method

Long-Flake Method

Food Processor Pie Crust

No-Roll Pie Crust

Gluten-Free Pie Crust

Pâte Sucrée

CITRUS-SCENTED Tart Dough

Cookie Crumb Crusts

Graham Cracker Crust

Fruit Pie Fillings

Thickeners for Pies

Top Crust Tips

The Very Freshest Fruit Pie

Apple Pie

Old-Fashioned Apple Slab Pie

Mr. Washington’s Cherry Pie

Strawberry Rhubarb Pie

Gingered Plum Streusel Pie

Blushing Peach Pie

Bumbleberry Pie

Blueberry Hand Pies

Cream or Custard Pies

Custard Pie

Chocolate Cream Pie

Banana Cream Pie

Lemon Meringue Pie

MASTERING Meringue

Classic Key Lime Pie

Lemon Chess Pie

Freezing for Extended Shelf Life

Pumpkin Pie

Chocolate Icebox Pie

Pumpkin Cheesecake Pie

Old-Fashioned Pecan Pie

Chocolate Pecan Pie

Tarts and Turnovers

Berry Cream Tart

Salted Caramel and Chocolate Tart

Chocolate Mousse Tart

Apple Turnovers

Open-Faced Rustic Berry Pie

Toaster Pastries

Savory Pies and Quiche

Tourtière (French-Canadian Meat Pie)

Classic Chicken Pot Pie

Fresh Tomato Tarts

Savory Zucchini Galette

Basic Vegetable Quiche

Quiche Lorraine

Roasted Butternut Squash and Spinach Quiche

Tourtière
(French-Canadian Meat Pie)