Fran’s dad, Frankie, Uncle Gregory, and Aunt Loulou

 

4.

Whenever there was a family gathering, no matter whose house it was at, there was always somethin’ to eat before there was somethin’ to eat. At our uncle Greg’s house, our aunt Loulou would be fryin’ up cauliflower fritters and we’d literally be eating ’em as they came outta the pan. As soon as they hit the paper towel to cool, we’d snatch ’em up. Probably about half of ’em actually made it to the table. But it wasn’t like the family went hungry. There’d be a smorgasbord of all different starters and sides—stuffed mushrooms, baked clams, escarole fritters—all ready to go before the macaroni came out.

Sal’s Grandma Maria and Grandma Connie

 

CAULIFLOWER FRITTERS

SERVES 6

Our aunt Loulou is right up there with our moms and grandmother as one of the best cooks in the family. She and her twin sister, Gilda, ran Greg’s Heros down on Van Brunt Street in Brooklyn—just two blond Staten Island girls feedin’ truck drivers and working guys every day. They’d open at five a.m. and close at three p.m. and served really hearty food—ham and eggs, chicken marsala, chicken rollatini. And they were famous for making these fritters. Loulou would always bring them to our grandfather’s house on Sundays and to every holiday party. That was her thing. She smoked six to eight packs of cigarettes a day, lighting one Virginia Slim and taking two, three drags before lighting another one. We never saw anything like it. She’d be smokin’ cigarettes while she was fryin’ up the cauliflower, gettin’ ashes in the pan. And she’d be droppin’ little bits of food for her Lhasa apso, Gizmo. That Gizmo, he ate really good.

But anytime she made these fritters, we’d get so excited. They went down so easy, you know? You could eat five, six of them at a time because they’re light. And it’s cauliflower, so it’s healthy, right? We’ve seen fried cauliflower on other menus, but not the way we do it. It’s usually just a piece of cauliflower that’s deep-fried with nothing else really going on. These, though—these are what flew out the door when we opened our first shop. So we figured it was a good idea to make ’em for a James Beard event we did a few years ago. There we were, cookin’ alongside chefs like Mario Batali and Michael White for people who paid $8,000 for tickets just to eat our food—and we were makin’ fried cauliflower. These fritters were hands down the most popular dish of the night. People begged us for that recipe, and we wouldn’t give it up. But we’re givin’ it to you now. You’re gonna love ’em.

6 teaspoons salt

1 head cauliflower, stem and leaves trimmed

4 large eggs

1 teaspoon black pepper

6 tablespoons minced garlic

½ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

2 cups grated pecorino

2 cups all-purpose flour

2 cups olive oil, for frying

Bring a medium saucepot of water to a boil. Add 2 teaspoons of the salt and the whole head of cauliflower (quartered if you’re using a small pot) and cook until tender and easily pierced with a fork, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from the water and let cool.

Transfer the cauliflower to a medium bowl and mash with a fork until chunky. Add in the eggs, pepper, garlic, parsley, and cheese. Stir well, then add the flour and remaining 4 teaspoons salt. Mix until well combined.

In a frying pan, heat the olive oil over high heat until it registers about 325°F on a deep-frying thermometer. You can also test the oil without using a thermometer by dropping in a little bit of batter. If it sinks to the bottom or sticks to the side without bubbling, then it isn’t ready yet. It’s gotta float right to the top and start bubblin’ right away.

Scoop ½-cup portions of the batter into the hot oil. Press down on the fritters as they cook with a spatula or spoon so they flatten into disks. Cook evenly on both sides until golden brown. Remove and lay gently on paper towels to absorb the excess oil. Serve hot.

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