The oven is used for two reasons: first, when a dish needs to be kept warm at low
heat for its flavours to develop and mature, and second: when charcoal grilling is
not available. Fried Aubergine Stew (Khoresh-e Bademjan) illustrates the first point;
because the aubergines and meat are cooked separately, the combined dish is placed
in the oven at very low heat so their flavours can interact and mature. The Baked
Aubergine Dip and Minced Lamb Kebab (Kabab-e Koobideh) recipes in this book are
examples of how the oven is utilised when charcoal heat is unavailable. While there
is far less cleaning up to do when the oven is used, the smoky flavour of the original
dish will be sacrificed.
Harking back to the days before refrigeration was available, pickles were made out
of various ingredients to preserve them for the colder months. Usually served on
the side in small bowls, pickles are eaten for a contrast of flavours and to whet the
appetite, much like chutneys and relish. Sometimes, pickles are incorporated into
a dish, such as Chicken Mayonnaise Salad (Salad Olvieh), for example. While some
cooks today still take pride in making their own pickles, most have taken to buying
ready-made ones from delicatessen-like shops or supermarkets. The tray below
contains (clockwise from top right) pickled Persian cucumbers, pickled sour cherries,
non-spicy mixed vegetable relish, spicy mixed vegetable relish, and whole heads of
pickled garlic in the centre.
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