Chickamauga was a complicated battle. It is best studied on the spot. The Federal government established the site as a national park in the 1890s. At that time veterans of the battle assisted in laying out the battle lines and monuments. Because of this, the park today is maintained in close to its historic condition. The Visitors’ Center offers an audiovisual programme, a useful tour guide and a fine collection of weapons. The entrance is guarded by excellent representative examples of artillery types. Vistors can follow a seven-mile driving tour which hits the battle’s highlights. Better still, walk the lines and follow some of the woodland paths that traverse the field. As with all battlefields, nothing substitutes for a foot tour in order to gain an appreciation of the terrain. Having made repeated visits, I can vouch for the fact Chickamauga offers surprises and rewards to the diligent student.
The Army of the Cumberland spearheaded Grant’s offensive. Many of the soldiers shouted ‘Chickamauga! Chickamauga!’ as they charged up Missionary Ridge. (Library of Congress)
Nearby Chattanooga remains ‘the gateway to the Confederacy’. From this base, a two-hour drive north takes one to Murfreesboro and the well-preserved park at Stones River. Chattanooga itself has grown greatly and has largely taken over Missionary Ridge, but it is still instructive to visit this site where the Army of the Cumberland gained its revenge for Chickamauga. Lookout Mountain offers both a scenic and historic climb. The enterprising tourist can then follow Sherman’s army, and my great-grandfather’s march to Atlanta.