In mainland Europe, it was estimated that by 1919 in the French capital alone there were around 425 ‘feather establishments’ serving the fashion industry with probably the best known being the legendary and creative Maison Lemarié. Today, that figure is said to be down to just one or two and whilst Maison Lemarié, founded in 1880 by Palmyra Coyette under the business description of ‘studio of plumes-for-garments’ still survives, having been acquired by Chanel in 1996, many colourful and exotic birds around the world must be feeling just a little happier these days! Having said that, the house of Maison LeMarie, (which incidentally still has a very comprehensive period feather archive acquired over the years when various competitors were bought out or ceased to trade. Many of the feathers are from birds which are protected species today), continues to produce superb millinery and associated haute couture items that include the use of legal, non-restricted feathers from South Africa such as vultures, swans, peacocks and, of course, the perennially farmed ostrich. High-end clients of Maison LeMarie today, apart of course from its owner Chanel, include Givenchy, Dior and Lacroix in France, and Dolce & Gabanna, Valentino and Armani in Italy.
Let us not forget the Parisian courtesans – great patrons of the fashion world in their day. They had to look good for the class of client they were after and for those ladies of easy virtue who had made it to the top so to speak, ‘Les Grandes Horizontals’ as they were known, money for fashion was not in short supply. Three of the most famous – ‘Les Grandes Trois’, – Emilienne d’Alençon, the beautiful Liane de Pougy and Caroline Otero (La Belle Otero) could often be seen in the vicinity of the Bois de Boulogne and other fashionable spots sporting, at times, large feather bedecked hats as they went about their business cementing their ‘social’ contacts.