THE DISTINCTIONS AREN’T NECESSARILY GEOGRAPHIC, but are rather based on the varieties of apples used, the process of making the cider, and the types of additions.
English-style Cider
English-style ciders are made with English cider apples – no matter where the apples happen to be grown. An English cider has a mix of cider apples, creating a dry cider with a good amount of natural tannins.
Now seems like a good time to talk about tannins:
Tannins, in various strengths, are found in all apples. The tannic content exists in the skin of the apple. Cider apples are generally quite small, so that the pulp-to-skin ratio favors the skin. A massive Honeycrisp, on the other hand, where the flavor lies in the pulp, is a very low-tannin fruit. The tannins in a Red Delicious are relatively high among dessert fruit, but the inside is just a huge, watery sugar factory, so the tannic bomb is lost.
Tannins, in short, are what make your mouth dry out. The classic learning tool to teach people about tannins is to think of raw walnuts: just visualize what they do to your mouth.
Cider apples are chock full of tannins, and heavily tannic cider is a trademark of the English style. Besides using tannic apples, there are other ways to add tannins to your cider. Tannin powder is readily available at home-brew shops. The powder is extracted from grape seeds, chestnuts, and other substances. They do add tannin to your cider, and sometimes it’s OK, but if you decide to use them I recommend a very light hand – no more than ⅛ teaspoon per gallon to start. I’ve tried some home batches that overused the powder, and it was not a pleasant drinking experience.
There are cider varieties that exist within the English category, as well. Sweet English cider is available, which is actually created by adding fresh juice after fermentation, and not by adding sugar or other sweetening agents. Also, the English like to employ the use of barrels, both during fermentation and maturation, more than their American counterparts.
However, carbonation is not a clear way to define the English style, as some of the best English ciders I’ve had are still, which is not to be confused with flat.
Flat is a fault, still is a choice.
Additionally, most English traditionalists would never think of brewing hop ciders, cherry ciders, and the like. But I’ve seen this changing, as we’ve hosted a few English cider makers who took back with them fresh ideas to make cider appeal to a new audience. Still, traditional English cider drinkers, who often treat the words of CAMRA like gospel, turn their noses up at anything but a pure, orchard-focused product.
What is CAMRA?
CAMRA, or the Campaign for Real Ale, is a UK organization that, at its heart, has a great mission: to educate the public on what they deem to be a real ale, or cider, or perry. They even have a website that lists what is and is not a real cider. I look at the list sometimes and laugh, since most of the “unreal” ciders are also some of the most popular and well-loved! They list ciders that are “cold, fizzy keg products” as not real, which I have a problem with. And they look down on practices that spread the word of cider to the masses.
The reality is, cider would not be a booming business – especially in the US – if we had to be held to only making still, room-temp ciders. My own cider, which I go to an orchard and pick the apples for, and press by hand, and remove the sulfites from, and make with love, would not be considered “real” since I employ force carbonation.
I obviously have some strong opinions about this, and you certainly may argue with them. But, put simply, I think the narrow rules that CAMRA employs discredit a lot of-hard working people who make good cider that customers love.
In discussing CAMRA, I’ve been talking about smaller producers, and the ideal English cider. Obviously, in England there exist large-scale producers that we all know, like Blackthorn and Strongbow. Personal opinions aside, they have done a lot to provide cider consistently to the masses for a very long time. Do they have the same “traditional” taste as a West Country scrumpy? No, but even so their place and purpose in the market should be respected and appreciated.
Common English-style cider apples include:
• Kingston Black
• Foxwhelp
• Redstreak
• Brown Snout
• Dabinett
• Stoke Red
• Brown’s Apple
Examples of English-style ciders available in the US:
• Oliver’s Bittersweet Funk, made in Herfordshire, United Kingdom
• Henney’s Dry, made in Herfordshire, United Kingdom
• Worley’s, made in Somerset, United Kingdom
• Burrow Hill, made in Somerset, United Kingdom
US examples of English Style Cider:
• Farnum Hill, made in New Hampshire
• Alpenfire, (specifically their wonderful Pirate’s Plank), made in Washington
Spanish-style Cider
One of the most surprising developments I’ve witnessed at Bushwhacker is how so many people have taken to Spanish-style cider. Being the grand master of funk, Spanish cider can be aggressive even for the most well-rounded consumer. I often describe it as the sour beer of the cider world – a concise description of a remarkable cider, made using the knowledge of generations of people who take their cider as seriously as their culture.
Though a few Americans have tried, it’s very hard to copy Spanish-style cider perfectly. Basque and Asturian apples are rarely found outside Spain. And good luck finding the traditional maturation vessel used: a chestnut barrel. In the US, oak barrels are much more common.
While there are certainly nuances between different producers in Spain, they also share certain characteristics. Notes of olive and vinegar are intensified by the traditional high pour, adding natural carbonation and a bit of oxidation. Most Spanish ciders are still, though a few sparkling offerings can be found, and these can be quite wonderful. I liken them to a funky, light Champagne.
In my opinion, they lend themselves more to food pairings than any other cider category on earth. That’s why we’ve added a Basque Cider Cocktail to our newest pub, in an attempt to spread the word about this tremendous cider.
While generally quite similar, there are some subtle differences between Basque and Asturian ciders. In my experience, Asturian ciders as a whole seem a bit lighter and not quite as bold as their Basque equivalents. The notes of olive on the nose are a bit more subdued, and Asturian ciders don’t have as much of a vinegary ting.
Common Spanish apples:
• Errezila
• Geza Mina
• Goikoetxea
• Mokoa
• Ugarte
• Txalaka
Common Basque and Asturian Ciders Found in the US:
• Sarasola, from the Basque region of Spain
• Isastegi, (Basque)
• Castanon, (Asturias)
US Examples of Spanish-style Cider:
• Virtue’s Sidre de Nava, made in Michigan
• Bushwhacker Cider’s Txa Txa Txa, made in Oregon
• Troy 2013, made in California
French-style cider is predominately made in the Normandy region of France, where they have their own kinds of apples, including bitter, bittersweet, and sharp varieties. These apples are rarely grown in large quantities outside the region, and this allows French cider to have a very distinctive flavor. The apples themselves are often quite small, due to the region’s soil makeup.
A leading characteristic of French cider is the relatively low alcohol content – often between two and five percent alcohol by volume (ABV). This is due to a process called “keeving.” While the science behind this process can be a bit daunting, the concept is quite simple: it’s a way to make a naturally sweet cider, low in alcohol, by removing the nutrients from the juice. Eliminating the nutrients leaves nothing left for the yeast to convert into alcohol.
Most French producers also rely on natural fermentation, don’t use sulfites, and refrain from adding extra sugar to sweeten the cider or boost the alcohol content.
Common Apples Used in French Cider:
• Judor
• Avrolles
• Biquet
• Muscadet
• Frequin
• Rambault
• Reine Des Pommes
Commercial Examples of French Cider:
• Etienne Dupont Cidre Bouché Brut de Normandie (E. Dupont Brut): Though more selections from E. Dupont can be found in the States, the Brut is the most commonly found. Made in Normandy.
• Eric Bordelet Tendre, made in Normandy
• Douche de Longueville, made in Normandy
• Louis de Lauriston, made in Normandy
US Examples of French-style Cider
• EZ Orchards, made in Oregon
While there may be a few smaller producers attempting to replicate the French style in the states, it’s widely agreed that EZ Orchards, based just outside of Salem, Oregon, provides the best example of American-made, French-style cider. Kevin Zielinski is the owner and cider maker, and he’s fortunate to have been born into an orchardist family. Over the past decade, he has cultivated an amazing selection of French apples in his beautiful orchard. His extreme attention to detail, paired with patience, makes his cider stand apart. EZ Orchard cider is highly regarded by customers, hobbyists, and pros alike.
(or, if you like, New World-style Cider)
What’s been going on in this country over the last few years has been pretty fun to watch. Experimentation is going full force, especially in the Pacific Northwest.
When we started Bushwhacker back in 2010, we could only get about forty ciders for our shop, and we had the basics of pear, apple, and berry ciders. But now the floodgates have opened, and we’re seeing everything from ginger cider to our own Smoked Cider, a slew of hop ciders, and even ciders made with tea! Obviously, not all of the experiments work out. But it’s a fun ride.
I define “American-style” as a catch-all category: ciders that don’t feel constrained by the more “traditional” methods of production and apple sourcing. I’ve certainly argued with cider makers about this, as I feel it’s important to find unique ways to use apples that are available locally instead of getting hung up on what makes a “good” cider apple. While we would all like to work with “cider” apples, it’s not always a commercial reality.
I prefer to support local orchardists, to make sure their fruit finds a home instead of rotting on the ground. This, along with Americans’ spunky attitude about doing things differently, has led to the vast array of new styles of cider you now see on the shelf.
That being said, it takes a careful balance to keep from turning these ciders into glorified wine coolers.
Commercial Examples of American-style Cider:
• Bushwhacker Smoked Cider, draft only, made in Oregon
• Seattle Basil Mint, draft and bottle, Pacific Northwest
• Reverend Nat’s Hallelujah Hopricot, draft and bottle, Pacific Northwest
• Red Tank Lherry (lemon cherry cider), draft only, made in Oregon
• Crispin the Saint, bottle only, made in California
• Schilling Sriracha Lime, draft only, Pacific Northwest
• Finnriver Habanero, draft and bottle, Pacific Northwest
Cider is made all over the world, but most ciders fit into these categories. There are, however, a few minor styles I would like to touch on.
German Cider (apfelwein)
Germany has its own cider culture. Sadly, we don’t get a lot of German cider in the states, so my own first-hand experience is limited. Apfelwein is generally a bit tart and sour. It also relies heavily on dessert apples instead of the classic “cider” apples used in other regions.
Possmann is the most common German cider found in the States. However, I’ve been told it’s a very poor example, akin to mass-produced ciders found in other countries.
Irish Cider
Ireland produces cider, the most well known internationally being Magners. There are several new, smaller Irish producers, but unfortunately I haven’t seen any of their ciders come through our fair shops.
Scandinavia produces quite a bit of cider. Rekorderlig and Kopparberg of Sweden are arguably the most popular. With flavors like “Strawberry-Lime,” “Passionfruit,” and “Elderflower & Lime,” these ciders would definitely make the cider makers of South West England cringe. But they’re hugely popular, and Kopparberg claims to have the “bestselling pear cider in the world.”
Ice Cider
Ice Cider is quite popular in Quebec. Think of it as the cider world’s answer to ice wine. Often sold in 375 milliliter bottles, it commands a fairly high price due to the complex process that goes into making it. Ice cider is made in two ways: either by freezing the fresh juice and separating the ice (water) from the juice, then fermenting, or by letting the apples freeze on the tree and then pressing the fruit while it’s still partially frozen. Brrr!
The resulting product is quite sweet, and it’s not something I usually reach for, but a good ice cider can be quite nice in small doses.
Pommeau
Pommeau is a mix of calvados (apple brandy) and fresh juice. The fresh juice cuts the high alcohol content of the Pommeau, and the mix is aged in oak barrels for a traditional twenty-four months.
Pommeau is a geographic designation; anything outside of France should be designated as an “apple dessert wine.” We sell several pommeaux at our stores, and I really like them. They have the flavor of a fine brandy or calvados, without the immense heat that comes off most brandies.
