part0009

The first edition of Corset Cutting and Making has a small amount of general information on the construction processes, which matches the methods used on corsets in the late 1910s to early 1920s. While some of the patterns do include detailed construction information, including order of sewing operations, or the type of seams to be used, other patterns have no information.

For a more complete understanding of corset construction methods, two useful US Government reports from 1913 and 1914, on processes and working conditions in the corset industry have been combined with the information from the first edition to create an overview of the construction process.

The first step described by all sources is the cutting out of the corset exterior fabric, along with all internal linings, strappings, and interlinings.

“The procedure for marking out corsets, whether a single pair or in quantities, is much the same. Spread the cloth on to the bench, [with the] grain, or pattern, underneath, so that all markings are made on the wrong side of the material, and will consequently be covered by the strapping.”

“Front and back linings from drill or coutil, according to the quality of the corsets, are next cut. For lining the fronts (busks) cut the strips 1 1/2 inches wide, and slightly longer than front pattern. For wedge, or spoon busks, wider at the bottom and narrow at the top. Back linings are cut 1 3/4 inches wide”

Beginning in the mid-1910s, an external facing was used for the busk, along with a lining, for some styles of corsets, especially those with elastic sections at the top or bottom at the front of the corset. This was a separate piece, usually straight, cut from the outer fabric, and is not shown on the pattern diagrams. Only the Vivian pattern, p.100, mentions specifically that there is to be a facing, and that is not included in the pattern diagram. However, the original illustrations for Ruby, p.90, and Myrtle, p.96, also show an external facing, which appears to be applied on top of the front pattern pieces, and is not an additional section added to the corset.

Close up of the exterior facing and interior lining of the front busk of a mid-1920’s corset. This is is interlined with a double layer of cotton fabric. Private collection

The interlinings are a protective layer between the boning materials and the outer fabric, helping to cushion the ends of the bones to prevent wear-through. The interlining for the bone channels is folded in half, and tucked inside the bone channel before it is sewn down.

The busk covers, or busk wrap, helps to soften the sharp edges of the metal, protecting the front edge stitching from ripping out.

“The interlinings come next. Take Wigan, or other suitable material. Busk covers are cut to suit the width of the busks, 1 1/2 inches being the general width for straight busks, and 2 1/2 inches for wedge, shaped to fit into outer linings. Interlining for strapping is cut 3/4 inch wide for two-bone and side-steel, but the width is necessarily governed by that of the steels to be used.”