part0028

The style of corset portrayed on the next page in diagram form is one which will appeal to those readers whose clientele includes’ ladies who desire to ride occasionally. It is adapted to both promenade or equestrienne purposes, being fitted with an elastic webbing sidegore, which provides for the forward bending attitude adopted by a majority of riders.

The notches show how the pattern goes together, and in all there are 12 parts, including two elastic gores and three wedge portions, which latter are inserted as indicated by letters A on back B and C at breast.

There are not a great many bones used, owing to the fact that extra pliability is produced by the elastic sides; but should more be required they may be inserted in centre of back gore, over wedge-piece, and between the front set of bones. The various parts must be cut from the straight of the material, so as to avoid stretching, and the elastic must be of good thickness, and well woven and covered, as the best quality is almost unaffected by the heat of the body.

It will be noticed that steels are conspicuous by their absence, owing to their unsuitability to such shapes where extra expansion and pliability are absolutely necessary.

This equestrian, or riding, corset, dates to 1900-1904, based on the cut and use of gores to achieve the fashionable shape. Riding corsets were a niche market, and were not available in standard middle-class mail order catalogs.

Elizabeth Karr in her 1890 book “The American Horsewoman”, gave this advice about the appropriate shape for a riding corset, and suggested a ready made corset which was easily available.

“The corset is indispensable to the elegant fit required in a riding habit, but should never be tight. It should be short on the sides and in the front and back. […] The C.P. la Sirene [made in Paris] is undoubtedly the best corset for riding purposes for it is short, light and flexible, and not prejudicial to the ease and elegance of good riding, as is the case with the stiff, long-bodied corset.” 35

Riding corsets, and the habits worn over them, followed the shape of fashionable women’s suits. Alice Hays in 1903 offered this advice, which applies to this style of equestrian corset:

“Before trying [a riding coat] on, its wearer should procure a good pair of riding corsets, which must allow for free play to the movements of her hips and above all she must not lace tightly. Wasp waists have luckily gone out, never, I hope, to return. The size of a woman’s waist, if she is not deformed, is in proportion to that of the rest of her body. Therefore a pinched waist, besides rendering the tightly girthed-up lady uncomfortable, to say nothing of its probable effect on the tint of her nose, deceives no one. It is impossible to ride with ease and grace in tight stays …” 36