The lights are finally out. Teeth have been brushed, books are read, the remnants of a day are processed in reflected light from the hall. This is when I lean in to tuck them in, wedging covers under small bodies—a barrier against cold and dark—and then embrace, smother, kiss, and field final questions. “Will you be here in the morning, Daddy?” Most days the answer is “No,” it’s a baker’s life, and so forth, but occasionally I get to say, “Yes.” And I ask, “You want pancakes?” “Yes!” They never lose enthusiasm for the morning space occupied by hot tea, hot pancakes, butter, syrup, and family.
These are 100 percent whole wheat not because our health will soar from extra fiber, minerals, and wheat germ, but because they taste better and are as light and fluffy as any made with white flour. Endless options exist for substitutions—whole rye, whole spelt, whole buckwheat, or many other grains may replace or be blended, gram for gram, with the whole wheat. Some grains will require more moisture; look for batter consistency and adjust as necessary with buttermilk or milk.
Pancakes
A few tips for fluffier pancakes.
Room-temperature ingredients combine more easily, more smoothly, and with less mixing. Eggs may be left out overnight or warmed briefly in a bowl of warm water. Buttermilk may be warmed briefly in a microwave or in a metal bowl set on the griddle or frying pan for a couple of minutes as it preheats.
Stir the batter gently, until barely homogeneous, with a rubber spatula, using a folding motion, as you would for making mousse or a tender cake batter.
Rest the batter before cooking. Even a couple of minutes will be enough for the baking soda and baking powder to do their work, lightening the batter before it hits the griddle. Modern baking powder is double-acting, meaning that it works two times—once when hydrated and then again when heated.