I’ve never dreamed of sugarplums like the children in Moore’s “A Visit from St. Nicholas,” but I have certainly felt my heart quicken at the thought of a batter rising, waiting for stirred eggs and melted butter, the sputter of pancakes on a griddle, coffee brewing, warm sleepy faces coming down the stairs, delighting in risen pancakes. The evening before (or the morning, if you would like pancakes for dinner) buttermilk, yeast, and flour are mixed and allowed to sit. The resulting pancakes rise over the course of time, infusing the breakfast plate with the flavor of fresh bread. They may also be prepared using sourdough culture for yet another level of flavor complexity.