Dessert. I do like dessert. I will eat it. Do I swoon, though? Not usually. Unless . . . unless it has pastry cream, buttery shortcakes, strawberry-rhubarb compote, fresh whipped cream, and berries. These I will anticipate. Although the shortcakes are very similar to biscuits, they are made slightly more decadent with fresh cream and just a little sugar. They are the vehicle that, when combined with the compote, pastry cream, whipped cream, and berries, moves to the place where roads from unctuousness, piquancy, and creaminess meet.