Years before our children were part of the mix, the search for hummus began. Julie returned from a summer of singing in Tel Aviv, praising the regional food and describing a hummus to me. This hummus was not the gritty paste that is a staple of vegetarian cookbooks, but light, almost whipped, and silky smooth. It was slightly bitter from roasted tahini; spiced with ample garlic, lemon, and salt; and enriched with olive oil. In time I was able to make something close to the delicacy she described. Dragging fresh, buttered roti through hummus drizzled with green olive oil and sprinkled with spicy paprika is perfection for me and for her, and transports to a hot day in Haifa.