Artisan Whole Wheat Herb Breads: Grain and Garden Goodness
Several years ago, I enrolled in a week-long artisan bread baking class for professional bakers at the Culinary Institute of America in the Napa Valley. There are few places as beautiful or as full of serious foodies. The ovens are on the third story of this beautiful, old brick building, and the ambient temperature for most of that week was about 100°F. Everyone had to dress in regulation long, green-and-white checked pants and a long-sleeved white chef’s jacket, buttoned all the way up. With the bread ovens cranked up to 500°F, I’m lucky I made it through the week. But make it, I did. And I came home with some new skills and a deepened love for bread and bakers. My particular “twist” on bread baking is that I like to do it, as often as possible, with wheat that I have just milled myself in my own kitchen. In the following recipes, you can use white flour or store-bought whole wheat flour, or a combination of both, but if you’d really like to learn something about grain, consider either buying freshly milled grain or grinding it at home yourself.
A word about yeast: Many professional bakers use SAF instant yeast, as it is very reliable and requires no proofing. You can add it right to your bread dough. Buy it from a good online source with a rapid turnover rate, such as King Arthur Flour. I also use and recommend Kitchen Resources’ Dough Enhancer, a gluten-free enhancer that increases the rise of a whole-grain dough.
Basic Whole Wheat Artisan Loaf
Makes 1 loaf
Whether you make this bread from store-bought whole wheat flour or from whole wheat flour you’ve ground yourself at home, the results should yield a warm, delicious, sweet-smelling loaf. If you prefer a lighter loaf, you can substitute one or two cups of unbleached white bread flour for the whole wheat flour. Because I love the smell and flavor of freshly ground wheat, I often make this bread with no additions, and then slather it with just butter or spread or freshly made preserves.
3 cups whole wheat flour
2 teaspoons SAF instant yeast
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon gluten or dough enhancer (optional)
1 ½ cups water or buttermilk (see Note)
2 tablespoons oil, plus more for coating
Place the flour, yeast, salt, and gluten, if using, in the work bowl of a food processor fitted with a dough blade and pulse a few times to mix.
Pour in the water and oil and let the machine run until the dough forms a clean ball in the processor. If your dough looks too wet and does not easily form a clean ball, turn off the machine for about 10 minutes and give the flour time to absorb some of the liquid. Then turn it back on again and let it run until the dough forms a clean ball. (Cuisinart recommends letting the machine run for 45 seconds after the ball is formed in the processor.)
Remove the dough from the food processor and shape it into a ball or disk. Place the dough in a large, lightly oiled bowl. Cover the bowl with a clean, damp dish towel.
Let the dough rise in a warm spot until doubled in size, about 1 ½ hours. The time will vary with the temperature of your ingredients and the place you choose to rise dough. I often use my oven, which has a 100°F setting just perfect for raising bread dough.
Preheat the oven to 350°F and place a rack in the center.
Gently press the air out of the dough, then shape it into a loaf. Place the loaf in a well-oiled loaf pan and bake for 35 to 40 minutes, or until the loaf is golden brown. Alternatively, you can make a free-form loaf and let it rise and bake on a baking sheet covered with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat generously dusted with cornmeal.
Allow the bread to cool before removing from the pan.
Note: Depending upon the type of flour you are using, you may need to add a few extra tablespoons of water. Just remember that your visual cue is a nice, smooth ball of dough forming in the food processor.
Walnut, Apple, and Rosemary Loaf
Makes 1 loaf
This recipe makes a wonderful, rustic, flavorful, and aromatic loaf that, like all good bread, should be able to stand on its own with a good slab of butter or freshly made herbed cheese. I like to leave the skins on the organic apples for added flavor and texture, and I prefer to form the dough into a round and bake it on a baking sheet or baking stone.
3 cups whole wheat flour
2 teaspoons SAF instant yeast
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon gluten or dough enhancer (optional)
3 tablespoons fresh rosemary leaves, chopped coarsely
1½ cups water or buttermilk (see Note)
2 tablespoons oil, preferably walnut, plus more for coating
1 cup Granny Smith apples, cored and cut into 1-inch pieces
1 cup walnuts, chopped coarsely
Place the flour, yeast, salt, gluten, if using, and rosemary in the work bowl of a food processor fitted with a dough blade and pulse a few times to mix.
Pour in the water and oil and let the machine run until the dough forms a clean ball in the processor. If your dough looks too wet and does not easily form a clean ball, turn off the machine for about 10 minutes and give the flour time to absorb some of the liquid. Then turn it back on again and let it run until the dough forms a clean ball. (Cuisinart recommends letting the machine run for 45 seconds after the ball is formed in the processor.)
Remove the dough from the food processor, and knead in the apples and walnuts by hand. Shape the dough into a ball or disk, and place it in a large, lightly oiled bowl. Cover the bowl with a clean, damp dish towel.
Let the dough rise in a warm spot until doubled in size. I don’t rush this one, because more complex flavors develop as the dough begins to rise. The time will vary with the temperature of your ingredients and the place you choose to rise dough. I often use my oven, which has a 100°F setting, just perfect for raising bread dough.
Preheat the oven to 350°F and place a rack in the center.
Gently press the air out of the dough, then shape it into a loaf. Place the loaf in a well-oiled loaf pan and bake for 35 to 40 minutes, or until the loaf is golden brown. Alternatively, you can make a free-form loaf and let it rise and bake on a baking sheet covered with parchment paper or a silicone baking sheet generously dusted with cornmeal.
Allow the bread to cool before removing from the pan or cutting.
Note: Depending upon the type of flour you are using, you may need to add a few extra tablespoons of water. Just remember that your visual cue is a nice, smooth ball of dough forming in the food processor.
Hazelnut, Dried Cherry, and Sage Round
Makes 1 round
This is a beautiful, delicious bread that may be eaten on its own or slathered with butter and toasted for breakfast.
3 cups whole wheat flour
2 teaspoons SAF instant yeast
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon gluten or dough enhancer (optional)
1 ½ cups water or buttermilk (see Note)
2 tablespoons oil, preferably hazelnut, plus more for coating
½ cup dried cherries
1 cup hazelnuts, chopped coarsely
½ cup fresh sage leaves, chopped coarsely
Place the flour, yeast, salt, and gluten, if using, in the work bowl of a food processor fitted with a dough blade and pulse a few times to mix.
Pour in the water and oil and let the machine run until the dough forms a clean ball in the processor. If your dough looks too wet and does not easily form a clean ball, turn off the machine for about 10 minutes and give the flour time to absorb some of the liquid. Then turn it back on again and let it run until the dough forms a clean ball. (Cuisinart recommends letting the machine run for 45 seconds after the ball is formed in the processor.)
Remove the dough from the food processor and knead in the cherries, hazelnuts, and sage by hand. Shape the dough into a ball or disk and place it in a large, lightly oiled bowl. Cover the bowl with a clean, damp dish towel.
Let the dough rise in a warm spot until doubled in size, about 1 ½ hours. The time will vary with the temperature of your ingredients and the place you choose to rise dough. I often use my oven, which has a 100°F setting, just perfect for raising bread dough.
Preheat the oven to 350°F and place a rack in the center.
Gently press the air out of the dough, then shape it into a loaf. Place the loaf in a well-oiled loaf pan and bake for 35 to 40 minutes, or until the loaf is golden brown. Alternatively, you can make a free-form loaf and let it rise and bake on a baking sheet covered with parchment paper or a silicone baking sheet generously dusted with cornmeal.
Allow the bread to cool before removing from the pan.
Note: Depending upon the type of flour you are using, you may need to add a few extra tablespoons of water. Just remember that your visual cue is a nice, smooth ball of dough forming in the food processor.
Oregano, Cumin, and Cheese Loaf
Makes 1 loaf
I grew up in a conventional, middle-class American home, and at the time, no one ate wheat bread, and certainly no one I knew made bread at home. Spongy, white sandwich bread was the order of the day, so you can imagine what an awakening I had the day one of my college roommates brought home a loaf of bread that was laced with oregano and cheese. I went nuts, and decided I had to learn how to bake bread. This is my attempt at re-creating the loaf from sense memory, and it’s not bad!
3 cups whole wheat flour
2 teaspoons SAF instant yeast
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon gluten or dough enhancer (optional)
1 ½ cups water or buttermilk (see Note)
2 tablespoons oil, plus more for coating
1 cup cubed sharp Cheddar or Parmesan cheese (small cubes)
½ cup coarsely chopped fresh oregano leaves
1 teaspoon cumin seeds, ground coarsely
1 teaspoon coriander seeds, ground coarsely
Place the flour, yeast, salt, and gluten, if using, in the work bowl of a food processor fitted with a dough blade and pulse a few times to mix.
Pour in the water and oil and let the machine run until the dough forms a clean ball in the processor. If your dough looks too wet and does not easily form a clean ball, turn off the machine for about 10 minutes and give the flour time to absorb some of the liquid. Then turn it back on again and let it run until the dough forms a clean ball. (Cuisinart recommends letting the machine run for 45 seconds after the ball is formed in the processor.)
Remove the dough from the food processor and knead in the Cheddar, oregano, and cumin and coriander seeds. Shape the dough into a ball or disk and place it in a large, lightly oiled bowl. Cover the bowl with a clean, damp dish towel.
Let the dough rise in a warm spot until doubled in size, about 1 ½ hours. The time will vary with the temperature of your ingredients and the place you choose to rise dough. I often use my oven, which has a 100°F setting, just perfect for raising bread dough.
Preheat the oven to 350°F and place a rack in the center.
Gently press the air out of the dough, then shape it into a loaf. Place the loaf in a well-oiled loaf pan and bake for 35 to 40 minutes or until the loaf is golden brown. Alternatively, you can make a free-form loaf and let it rise and bake on a baking sheet covered with parchment paper or a silicone baking sheet generously dusted with cornmeal.
Allow the bread to cool before removing from the pan or cutting.
Note: Depending upon the type of flour you are using, you may need to add a few extra tablespoons of water. Just remember that your visual cue is a nice, smooth ball of dough forming in the food processor.
Scones: Garden Twists on a Classic Pastry
A favorite treat to myself when I lived in London some years ago was to take afternoon tea at one of the nicer hotels or tearooms. Good scones are as light as a feather and should easily come apart to hold your butter and preserves, but often the scones sold in American coffee shops could easily do double duty as doorstops.
Here’s a hot tip for making good scones: The less you handle the dough, the lighter your scones will be. Do each step with the idea that you just want to mix ingredients, not give them a thorough workout. Using a food processor allows you to do this effortlessly and quickly.
Basic Scones
Makes 4 scones about 3 inches in diameter
I sometimes make these scones with whole wheat pastry flour, or sometimes with half pastry flour and half all-purpose white flour. Either way, they should be light and delicious and should be eaten as soon as they come out of the oven. Once you’ve mastered this basic recipe, you can improvise.
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon cream of tartar
1 tablespoon sugar
½ teaspoon salt
½ cup (1 stick) cold butter, cut into 8 pieces
¾ cup buttermilk
½ cup dried currants (optional)
Butter and preserves, for serving
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking sheet.
In the work bowl of a food processor, combine the flour, baking soda, cream of tartar, sugar, and salt. Pulse to blend.
Add the cold butter. Turn on the machine and let it run until the butter is just blended in and the dough is the consistency of coarse cornmeal.
Turn off the machine and add the buttermilk and currants, if using, then pulse just long enough to blend the ingredients. Remove the dough from the processor and gently knead it in your hands, using just a few turns (no more than a dozen) to bring the dough together.
Lightly flour a cutting board. Roll out the dough until it is about 1 inch thick and cut it with a biscuit cutter or a water glass to form the scones. I use a large cutter, 3 inches in diameter.
Place the scones on the baking sheet and bake for 10 to 12 minutes, until golden brown.
Remove the scones from the oven. Let them cool a bit, then split them open and slather them with butter and preserves.
Savory Southwestern Nuggets with Jalapeño, Cilantro, and Coriander
Makes 4 scones about 3 inches in diameter
You can give a wonderful Southwestern flair to the basic scone recipe by adding jalapeños and Mexican oregano and slathering them with chile butter or a bit of butter flavored with sugar, lime juice, and zest.
1 ⅔ cups all-purpose flour
⅓ cup cornmeal
1 ½ teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon ground coriander
½ teaspoon ground cumin
½ cup (1 stick) cold butter, cut into 8 pieces
¾ cup buttermilk
1 tablespoon coarsely chopped red bell pepper
1 tablespoon coarsely chopped jalapeño pepper
1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano or Mexican oregano
Chile butter or lime butter, for serving (see Note)
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking sheet.
In the work bowl of a food processor, combine the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, baking soda, salt, coriander, and cumin. Pulse to blend.
Add the cold butter. Turn on the machine and let it run until the butter is just blended in and the dough is the consistency of coarse cornmeal.
Turn off the machine and add the buttermilk, both peppers, and oregano, then pulse just long enough to blend the ingredients. Remove the dough from the processor and gently knead it in your hands, using just a few turns (no more than a dozen) to bring the dough together.
Lightly flour a cutting board. Roll out the dough until it is about 1 inch thick and cut it with a biscuit cutter or a water glass to form the scones. I use a large cutter, 3 inches in diameter.
Place the scones on the baking sheet and bake for 10 to 12 minutes, until golden brown.
Remove the scones from the oven. Let them cool a bit, then split them open and slather them with chile or lime butter.
Note: To make chile or lime butter, start with a stick of room-temperature unsalted butter and add a pinch of chili powder, a few teaspoons of freshly squeezed lime juice, a teaspoon of lime zest, and salt to taste.
Sunday Scones with Dried Strawberries and Rosemary
Makes 4 scones about 3 inches in diameter
The only thing better than a plain, well-made scone is a scone with a few embellishments. In this case, dried fruit and herbs. You can top them with unsalted butter and honey, apricot or strawberry preserves, or clotted cream.
2 cups all-purpose flour
⅓ cup sugar
1 ½ teaspoons baking soda
½ teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
½ cup (1 stick) cold butter, cut into pieces
¾ cup buttermilk
½ cup chopped dried strawberries or cranberries
1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary
Butter and preserves, for serving
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking sheet.
In the work bowl of a food processor, combine the flour, sugar, baking soda, baking powder and salt. Pulse to blend.
Add the cold butter. Turn on the machine and let it run until the butter is just blended in and the dough is the consistency of coarse cornmeal.
Turn off the machine and add the buttermilk, strawberries, and rosemary, then pulse just long enough to blend the ingredients. Remove the dough from the processor and gently knead it in your hands, using just a few turns (no more than a dozen) to bring the dough together.
Lightly flour a cutting board. Roll out the dough until it is about 1 inch thick and cut it with a biscuit cutter or a water glass to form the scones. I use a large cutter, 3 inches in diameter.
Place the scones on the baking sheet and bake for 10 to 12 minutes, until golden brown.
Remove the scones from the oven. Let them cool a bit, then split them open and slather with butter and preserves.
Spreads: Fresh and Easy Ways to Dress Up Bread
Many years ago, I had a summer job demonstrating food processors in a department store. Among the scripted recipes was one for a curry cheese spread that was just delicious. So delicious, in fact, that I began experimenting with variations on the theme of cream cheese, herbs, and spices, and I never really stopped. Here are a few simple recipes that I hope will set you on the road to experimentation with herbs and spreads.
Classic Basil Pesto
Makes about 1 ½ cups
Although a classic Italian pesto, or “paste,” is made from basil, for our purposes, it can be made with any herb or combination of herbs. Here is a classic basil pesto that can be used as a spread or a delicious topping for pasta. If you use cilantro, try adding a few tablespoons of freshly squeezed lime or lemon juice.
4 cups fresh basil leaves
6 large cloves garlic, or more if desired
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
½ cup pine nuts or walnuts
1 cup high-quality olive oil, or a mixture of olive and vegetable oils
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Combine the basil, garlic, Parmesan, and nuts in a food processor or blender. Pulse to mix and then chop them fine. Then, with the machine running, slowly add the olive oil through the feed tube. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper to taste.
Let the pesto stand for 5 minutes before serving.
Note: Although pesto is best served within the hour it is made, it can also be frozen in ice cube trays, then packed in plastic bags for later use.
Curry-Cilantro Cream Cheese Spread
Makes about 1 cup
I have made various versions of this delicious spread for many years, sometimes presenting it in a crock and sometimes rolling it into a ball covered with nuts. You can make it (or any of the spreads in this section) using commercial cream cheese or homemade yogurt cheese.
12 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature
1 cup shredded sharp Cheddar cheese
¼ cup dry sherry (optional)
2 teaspoons curry powder, or more as desired
¼ cup chopped walnuts, plus more for rolling (optional)
½ cup golden raisins or dried currants
¼ cup fresh cilantro leaves
Salt
Crackers or bread, for serving
Combine the cream cheese, Cheddar, sherry, if using, and curry powder in the work bowl of a food processor and blend well. Add the walnuts, raisins, and cilantro and pulse just until mixed. Be sure to leave plenty of texture. Season with salt to taste.
Spoon the mixture into a crock or roll it into a ball and cover it with walnuts, then refrigerate for at least 3 hours before serving on crackers or bread.
Making Herbed Mayo
Making mayonnaise at home could be one of the most simple yet satisfying tricks in the kitchen. More delicate than your average store-bought mayo, homemade mayo can be used as a base for a hearty potato salad, or delicate tea sandwiches, or even as a dip for fresh veggies. And it can be done in a matter of minutes, using a conventional blender, handheld immersion blender, or food processor.
In the work bowl of a food processor or blender, place 1 large egg, 1 teaspoon of salt, 1 tablespoon of white vinegar or freshly squeezed lemon juice, and, if you like, a teaspoon or more of Dijon mustard. With the machine running, slowly pour 1 cup of oil through the feed tube. The key word here is “slowly,” because if you pour all of the oil in at once, you may not ever reach that thick, creamy texture you’re looking for. You can add a single chopped fresh herb (dill, tarragon, or basil are three of my favorites), or a combination. If you like garlic, press a few fresh cloves into the mixture. I have, at times, used as many as six to eight cloves of garlic for a real kick.
This method yields about a cup of delicious homemade mayonnaise that will keep in the refrigerator for about a week, though I consider it best if used within a day or two.
If you are in a particularly grassroots kind of mood, try making your mayo the old-fashioned way. You’ll need a large mortar and pestle. Place the egg, salt, and vinegar in the mortar and pound it into a paste. If you are adding garlic or mustard, this would be a good time to incorporate them. Add a cup of oil, two or three drops at a time, making sure to incorporate the oil after each pour before moving on. This may be time consuming but it’s fun—so much so that you might consider giving each guest at a dinner party his or her own mortar, a glass of wine, and some ingredients, such as kalamata olives or roasted red peppers, to play with. Just pound away, drop by drop, until it begins to look and taste like mayo.
Vegan Alternative Believe it or not, this stuff is great, especially when made with herbs from your own garden. Add more or less garlic to taste.
2 (12-ounce) packages silken tofu
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
¼ cup olive oil
1 teaspoon salt
4 cloves garlic, pressed (optional)
1 tablespoon each of your favorite fresh herbs: dill, basil, marjoram,
rosemary, chives, thyme, or whatever
Place the tofu, lemon juice, olive oil, and salt in the work bowl of a food processor or blender and blend until smooth. Press the cloves of fresh garlic (or more, if desired) into the sauce. Add as much of the fresh herbs of your choice as you like and pulse until blended.
Mock Boursin
Makes about 1 cup
Boursin is the brand name for a popular herbed cream cheese developed in France some years ago. I use it in twice-baked potatoes, as a spread on crackers, or even as a spread in sandwiches.
2 (8-ounce) packages cream cheese, or a combination of cream cheese and goat cheese
2 cloves garlic, pressed, or more as desired
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh parsley
1 tablespoon fresh mixed herbs, such as tarragon, basil, chervil, or oregano
Place the cream cheese and garlic in the work bowl of a food processor and blend well. Add salt and freshly ground pepper to taste and blend.
Add the herbs and pulse until the herbs reach your desired consistency.
Pack the cheese into a crock or other serving container, cover, and refrigerate for several hours until the flavors have blended.