Simple Sorbets: A Refreshing Palate Cleanser
A good sorbet can be a very versatile addition to your culinary bag of tricks. A fruit sorbet, for instance, makes a beautiful, light, delicious dessert. It’s also a good way to use excess fruit from the garden or farmers’ market. But a savory sorbet can be just as exciting, if not more so. The tomato sorbet in this chapter, for instance, can be served as a between-course palate cleanser, or you can allow it to “slush” on a hot day and enjoy a sort of iced gazpacho.
You may think that making sorbet requires an ice-cream or frozen yogurt maker, but I’m happy to tell you that isn’t so. All you need is some frozen fruit or veggies, a bit of sugar (if you like), and a food processor.
You can use frozen fruit from the market, or you can freeze your own fruit in season. To freeze any fruit or veggie for use in sorbet, make sure the pieces are bite-size, then simply place them on a silicone- or parchment paper–lined baking sheet far enough apart from one another so they are not touching, then freeze them. When they are frozen solid, you can pack them into sealable plastic bags and return them to the freezer. Use them as you would any commercially frozen fruit or vegetable.
The amount of sugar needed will vary depending upon the type of fruit you are using, its degree of ripeness, and its intended use. And if you eat dairy products, try adding plain yogurt to the sorbet for a calcium boost and textural richness. Amounts of all ingredients are quite flexible, so don’t be afraid to play around.
Basic Sweet Sorbet
Makes about 2 cups
Many years ago I was teaching cooking to children and looking for healthy, simple desserts. This basic fruit sorbet was the perfect thing. Kids loved it. It was easy to make. And it was delicious. You can use berries, as I have done here, or your own favorite fruit.
2 (12-ounce) packages frozen raspberries, strawberries, or a combination of both
¼ cup sugar, or more, if desired
Place the frozen fruit and sugar in the work bowl of a food processor. Pulse until the berries and sugar are reduced to a powder. Taste the mixture and add extra sugar if desired.
Let the machine run, stopping from time to time to scrape down the sides of the work bowl, until the mixture turns into a smooth sorbet. (Don’t despair. It will turn to sorbet if you just keep at it!)
Scoop the sorbet into cups or cones, and enjoy. You can also pack it into a tightly sealed container and store it in the freezer for a day or two. Let it thaw a bit before serving.
Savory Cucumber Sorbet with Lemon and Rosemary
Makes about 2 cups
This refreshing sorbet is amazingly versatile. With little or no sugar added, it can be served as a between-course palate cleanser (as an accompaniment to the Tomato Sorbet, if you like). With a lot of sugar added, it becomes a light, refreshing dessert. I’ve used rosemary as the predominant herb, but you could just as easily use basil, dill (leaves and seeds), tarragon, or mint. Play around with amounts of sugar, salt, and lemon juice to find something that works perfectly for you or the occasion.
2 large cucumbers, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces (about 4 cups), frozen
¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
Salt
Sugar
2 tablespoons fresh rosemary leaves, chopped coarsely
Place the frozen cucumber pieces and lemon juice in the work bowl of a food processor. Pulse until the cucumber chunks are reduced to a fine powder, then add salt and sugar to taste.
Let the machine run, stopping from time to time to scrape down the sides of the work bowl, until the mixture turns into a smooth sorbet.
Add the rosemary leaves and pulse just until the rosemary is evenly distributed throughout the sorbet.
Scoop the sorbet into cups, and enjoy. You can also pack it into a tightly sealed container and store it in the freezer for a day or two. Let it thaw a bit before serving.
Pineapple Mint Sorbet
Makes about 2 cups
This is a refreshing, light, healthy dessert that requires the addition of very little or no sugar if you use a ripe pineapple. It’s a great follow-up to Mexican or Indian foods, and can even be used as a break between courses to cool down the palate.
1 (16-ounce) bag frozen pineapple (about 4 cups of chunks), or 1 whole pineapple, trimmed, cut into chunks, and frozen (see Note)
¼ to ½ cup sugar (optional)
¼ cup fresh mint leaves, chopped coarsely
Place the frozen pineapple pieces in the work bowl of a food processor. Taste to determine whether you need to add sugar, then pulse until the fruit is chopped into a fine powder. This may take a while.
Let the machine run steadily for short periods of time. Eventually, depending on how cold your fruit is and the size of the pieces, the mixture will begin to look more like a smooth sorbet than a powder.
Let the machine run, stopping from time to time to scrape down the sides of the work bowl, until the mixture turns into a smooth sorbet.
Add the chopped mint leaves at the last minute and run the machine only long enough to mix them in.
Scoop the sorbet into cups or cones, and enjoy. You can also scoop it into a container and pack it away in the freezer for a day or two. Let it thaw a bit before serving.
Note: If you are using fresh pineapple: Clean the pineapple thoroughly. Remove the peel and eyes. Cut into small pieces and freeze as directed (click here).
Making Fresh Herb Teas
I first began experimenting with herb teas many years ago while still a college student. At the time, bulk dried herbs, even the more esoteric among them, were readily available in a couple of shops in town, and someone gave me a copy of the now classic book Back to Eden by Jethro Kloss. What followed was Potter’s Cyclopedia of Medicinal Herbs. My roommates and neighbors became my guinea pigs, and I went from reading about herbs, to drinking herb teas, to growing them, to finally traveling to England to study herbal medicine.
But somewhere along the way, I found myself far more interested in drinking and eating my herbs than in approaching them strictly as medicines.
Maybe it was that delicate, fragrant, grassy cup of tilleul on my first visit to Paris. Or the thick mint tea in tiny demitasse cups served at the Paris Mosque, just across from the Jardin des Plantes. Or maybe that very first buttery, fresh, herb-laden omelet. All I know is that something about being in France, a country where people take their grub seriously, pushed me over the edge.
And after moving on from the wonderful herboristeries (herb pharmacies) of Paris, I came home and began making teas from fresh rather than dried herbs.
One of the most interesting aspects of fresh herb teas is their color. They are usually clear or a very pale green, and they only take on the familiar dark green color of dried herb teas if you boil them, which you should not do as they will quickly lose flavor and aroma. Steep them instead.
To concoct a pot of fresh herb tea, simply take about ¼ cup of fresh herb leaves of your choice, twist them in your hands to liberate some of their oils, then stuff them into a prewarmed teapot. Pour in water just off the boil and let steep for about 10 minutes. The resulting tea should be clear or light green in color, and because the herbs are fresh, you may notice flavors and aromas that you never noticed before.
If you prefer a fresh herb iced tea, similar rules apply. Make a pot of herb tea, let it cool, and pour it over ice. Leftover tea often goes over ice and into my water bottle for yoga, hiking, or road trips.
Savory Tomato Sorbet with Oregano
Makes about 2 cups
Serve this savory sorbet icy cold as a between-course palate cleanser, or let it melt somewhat and serve it with a straw or spoon on a hot day, as a sort of gazpacho slush. You could just as easily use basil or rosemary, or you can try mixing herbs and spices for different effects. Leave the skins on the organic tomatoes for additional color, flavor, and nutrients.
4 fairly firm tomatoes, each cut into 8 pieces (about 4 cups), frozen
½ teaspoon cumin seeds, crushed
½ teaspoon coriander seeds, crushed
2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup fresh oregano leaves, chopped coarsely
Place the frozen tomato pieces, crushed seeds, and lemon juice in the work bowl of a food processor. Pulse to break up the tomato pieces, then continue pulsing until they are reduced to a powder.
Add salt and freshly ground pepper to taste. Let the machine run, stopping from time to time to scrape down the sides of the work bowl, until the mixture turns into a smooth sorbet.
Add the oregano leaves and pulse a few times until they are thoroughly mixed in.
Scoop the sorbet into cups, and enjoy. You can also scoop it into a container and pack it away in the freezer for a day or two. Let it thaw a bit before serving.
Mini Cheesecakes: Small Bites with Big Flavor
Cheesecake can make a very versatile addition to your cooking repertoire. When served without the addition of sugar they make a delicious lunch, first course, or appetizer. And there is no end to the dessert possibilities when you add sugar, fresh fruit, and garden-fresh herbs.
Basic Cheesecake with Berries
Serves 4
This is a simple, lightly sweetened cheesecake that I like to serve with fresh strawberries or raspberry sauce. I have sized the recipe for four individual-size cheesecakes, rather than one large cake. Use low-fat cream cheese or Neufchâtel cheese (about one-third less fat than regular cream cheese) to lower the calorie content.
Crust
6 graham crackers
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
Filling
3 (8-ounce) packages cream cheese, at room temperature
1 cup sour cream
½ cup sugar
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
3 large eggs
Strawberries or raspberries, for garnishing
Preheat the oven to 325°F and place a rack in the center.
Make the crust: Combine the graham crackers and butter in a food processor and process until they form a coarse, even powder. Divide the mixture among four prepared mini (4 ½-inch) springform pans and press firmly into the bottom of the pans.
Make the filling: Place the cream cheese, sour cream, sugar, and vanilla in the work bowl of a food processor and let the machine run until the ingredients are thoroughly mixed. Add the eggs and mix in thoroughly.
Divide the filling among the four pans, and gently tap each pan on a cutting board or countertop to evenly distribute the filling and release any air bubbles.
Place the pans on a rimmed baking sheet and bake for about 10 minutes, or just until set, with the edges ever-so-slightly puffed. Do not overbake.
Transfer the cheesecakes to a wire rack and let cool for about 45 minutes, then refrigerate for at least 6 hours. Unmold each cheesecake on a serving plate and garnish with fresh berries.
Savory Cheesecakes with Thyme, Sage, and Rosemary
Serves 4
These delicious, small, savory, herb-filled cheesecakes can be served warm or cold. Pair them with a salad for lunch, or make them as a first course, or as a small, spreadable appetizer. You can go for a monotone approach with just one herb, such as rosemary, or take a multifaceted approach, such as in this recipe, which combines three of the so-called resinous herbs (see here). You can also vary the cheeses, if you like, using varieties that complement your chosen herbs.
Crust
6 whole-grain crackers
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
¼ cup chopped walnuts or almonds
Filling
2 (8-ounce) packages cream cheese, at room temperature
1 (11-ounce) package goat cheese
2 ounces feta cheese
½ cup grated sharp Cheddar cheese
1 cup sour cream
6 cloves garlic
½ teaspoon coarsely chopped fresh thyme
½ teaspoon coarsely chopped fresh sage
½ teaspoon coarsely chopped fresh rosemary leaves
3 large eggs
Preheat the oven to 325°F and place a rack in the center.
Make the crust: Combine the crackers, butter, and walnuts in the work bowl of a food processor and process until they form a coarse, even powder. Divide the mixture among four mini (4 ½-inch) springform pans and press firmly into the bottom of the pans.
Make the filling: Place all four cheeses, the sour cream, garlic, and herbs in the work bowl of a food processor and let the machine run until the ingredients are thoroughly mixed. Add the eggs and mix well.
Divide the filling among the four pans, and gently tap each pan on a cutting board or countertop to evenly distribute the filling and release any air bubbles.
Place the pans on a rimmed baking sheet and bake for about 10 minutes, or just until set, with the edges ever-so-slightly puffed. Do not overbake.
Transfer the cheesecakes to a wire rack and let cool for a few minutes. Either serve warm (not hot, but warm) over a salad, or let cool completely, and then cover and refrigerate for at least 5 hours to serve cold.
Lemon-Rosemary Cheesecakes
Serves 4
Lemon and rosemary are such a classic combination, and especially appropriate for a spring or summer lunch or dinner. You may wish to vary the amounts of the rosemary, lemon juice, and zest, but this is the way I like it.
Crust
6 to 8 shortbread cookies
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
Filling
3 (8-ounce) packages cream cheese, at room temperature
½ cup sugar
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 teaspoons lemon zest
1 cup sour cream
3 large eggs
2 teaspoons rosemary leaves, chopped coarsely
Strawberries or raspberries, for garnishing
Preheat the oven to 325°F and place a rack in the center.
Make the crust: Combine the shortbread cookies and butter in the work bowl of a food processor and process until they form a coarse, even powder. Divide the mixture among four mini (4 ½-inch) springform pans and press firmly into the bottom of the pans.
Make the filling: Place the cream cheese, sugar, lemon juice and zest, and sour cream in the work bowl of a food processor and let the machine run until the ingredients are thoroughly mixed. Then add the eggs and beat in thoroughly. Add the rosemary leaves and pulse until they are the desired size and texture.
Divide the filling evenly among the four pans, and gently tap each pan on a cutting board or countertop to evenly distribute the filling and release any air bubbles.
Place the pans on a rimmed baking sheet and bake for about 10 minutes, or just until set, with edges ever-so-slightly puffed. Do not overbake.
Transfer the cheesecakes to a wire rack and let cool for about 45 minutes, then refrigerate for at least 6 hours. Unmold each cheesecake on a serving plate and garnish with fresh berries.
Chocolate Walnut Peppermint Cheesecakes
Serves 4
Over the years, I’ve found that many different kinds of mints complement chocolate, but because of its menthol content, I like peppermint the best. Use spearmint, orange bergamot mint, or whatever you like, but peppermint gives the most stunning flavor contrast with the chocolate.
Crust
6 chocolate mint cookies, such as Thin Mints, crushed
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
Filling
8 ounces (about 1 cup) semisweet chocolate chips
3 (8-ounce) packages cream cheese, at room temperature
½ cup sugar
1 cup sour cream
3 large eggs
1 cup walnuts, chopped coarsely
¼ cup coarsely chopped fresh peppermint leaves
Preheat the oven to 325°F and place a rack in the center.
Make the crust: Combine the cookies and butter in the work bowl of a food processor and process until they form a coarse, even powder. Divide the mixture among four mini (4 ½-inch) springform pans and press firmly into the bottom of the pans.
Make the filling: Place the chocolate chips in a large, microwave-safe measuring cup and microwave at 100 percent power for about 1 minute. The chips will not appear to be melted, but stir them with a fork and see what happens. If they are still not quite melted, return them to the microwave for 30-second increments (so as not to overcook) until they are thoroughly melted.
Combine the melted chocolate, cream cheese, sugar, and sour cream in the work bowl of a food processor and let the machine run until the mixture is relatively light and fluffy. Add the eggs and mix well. Stir in the walnuts.
Divide the filling among the four pans, and gently tap each pan on a cutting board or countertop to evenly distribute the filling and release any air bubbles.
Place the pans on a rimmed baking sheet and bake for about 10 minutes, or just until set, with the edges ever-so-slightly puffed. Do not overbake.
Transfer the cheesecakes to a wire rack and let cool for about 45 minutes, then refrigerate for at least 6 hours. Unmold each cheesecake on a serving plate. Garnish with coarsely chopped fresh peppermint leaves.