Insight Guides: Great Breaks Cotswolds

This 60-mile (96km) full-day drive celebrates the beauty of the lesser-known Cotswolds, with delightful villages and their beautiful churches set amid rivers, hills and valleys

Most villages on this route have late Saxon churches, such as the fine example at Ampney Crucis 1 [map], 3 miles (5km) east of Cirencester, just off the A417. Gone are the 14th-century wall paintings, but a copy of one still hangs in the tower, showing the particularly gruesome martyrdom of St Erasmus, his intestines wound round a windlass. The main highlight is the flamboyant tomb of George Lloyd (died 1584) with its pedimented canopy, looking like a miniature temple.

A long, relatively straight road northeast leads to Quenington 2 [map]. Go through the main village, taking a right to where the church and the mill form a fine group with the 13th-century gateway to Quenington Court, once a Commandery of the Knights Hospitaller. Much of the interest at Quenington lies in the Romanesque carvings round the north and south doorways, so do not worry if the church is locked. The south door has a vigorous carving of the Harrowing of Hell; Christ appears thrusting a spear into the mouth of a figure representing Hell, while praying figures rise from the dead. The opposite door shows the Coronation of the Virgin, with Christ seated in Majesty surrounded by symbols of the Evangelists, and a beautiful domed building that represents the New Jerusalem, or the Temple of Heaven. Beakheads, a rare Romanesque feature, surround the arch; among the usual dragons and monsters are more familiar creatures, including a horse, a hare and a badger. Return to the village and take a right turn diagonally across the green.

Upstream lies Coln St Aldwyns, an estate village that benefited greatly from the funds poured into it by the local squire, Sir Michael Hicks-Beach (1837–1916), a former chancellor of the exchequer. Hicks-Beach’s house was substantially reduced in size after the war, and some of the timber and stone was used to build the fine pedimented row of estate cottages opposite the church to your left. It is the doorway of the church that again commands attention, with its bold and deeply undercut chevron mouldings and two fine dragonhead stops.

To reach neighbouring Hatherop go over the crossroads in Coln. Here Lord de Mauley’s French Gothic house is now a school. Reached by a long path, the church is in the school grounds (built in the 1850s) and is remarkable for the mortuary chapel of Barbara, Lady de Mauley (died 1844) at the south end of the church, depicted in a lovingly sculpted monument by Raffaelle Monti, with praying angels at her head and feet. The chapel itself is carved with a stone frieze in which wild flowers, butterflies and the letter ‘B’ for Barbara are intertwined.

Follow Fairford signs from Hatherop and, on reaching the junction with the A417, turn right for Fairford 3 [map], which glories in perhaps the finest of all the Cotswold wool churches. It is reached by turning right into the main square. It was built at the expense of the local wool merchants, John and Edmund Tame.

Of primary interest is the almost complete sequence of 15th-century stained glass made in the workshops of Barnard Flower, master glass painter to Henry VII and the man who created the glass for Westminster Abbey’s Lady Chapel. The whole biblical story, from the Creation to the Crucifixion, is depicted here, although it is the Last Judgement window, with its fiery red devils, that holds the most interest (bring binoculars to enjoy the grim details of diabolical punishment and torture). Of great importance, too, is the woodwork of the chancel screen (dating from 1501–27, and featuring carved pomegranates, the emblem of Catherine of Aragon, wife first of Prince Arthur and then of Arthur’s younger brother, Henry VIII) and the misericords depicting scenes from popular fables, such as the story of Reynard the Fox. Among several fine tombs in the churchyard, look for the grave of Tiddles, the church cat. Fairford hosts the world’s largest military air show, the Royal International Air Tattoo, held annually in July. Return to the A417 and continue east.

Lechlade 4 [map], 5 miles (8km) east of Fairford, has a church that inspired Shelley to write the sonnet A Summer Evening Churchyard in 1815. Lechlade marked the end of a holiday in which the poet had rowed up the Thames from Windsor. The footpath he took from the river to the town is now an attractive tree-lined path called, inevitably, Shelley’s Walk (also known as Bridge Walk). It is worth following in his footsteps across the fields to St John’s Bridge for a fine view of Lechlade’s graceful church spire rising above the water meadows. St John’s Bridge marks the highest navigable point along the river, and the bridge itself, although 19th-century, stands on the site of one of the earliest stone bridges to be built across the Thames. Beside the nearby lock is a stone statue of Old Father Thames, carved by Rafaelle Monti, sculptor of the Hatherop effigy. The slightly hidden path can be found opposite the pleasant Trout Inn, just beyond the sign to Kelmscott and marked Public Footpath. At the pub you can hire boats of various kinds from Cotswold Boat Hire (tel: 01793-727 083; www.cotswoldboat.co.uk). Lechlade has plenty of walking opportunities and is on the excellent Thames Path route (for more information, click here).

The minor road alongside the pub heads through flat fields to the pretty village of Kelmscott where the manor 5 [map] is famous as the summer residence of William Morris (for more information, click here) between 1871 and 1896 (tel: 01367-252 486; www.kelmscottmanor.co.uk; Apr–Oct Wed and Sat 11am–5pm; charge). The house contains Morris’ furniture, textiles and carpets; the gardens are delightful; and the barn beside the manor offers a comprehensive account of Morris and his time at Kelmscott.

Several buildings in the village exemplify the arts and crafts tradition that Morris founded, including the Morris Cottages (built by Jane Morris as a memorial to her husband in 1902), with a relief of Morris carved in stone on the facade: and the village hall, designed by Ernest Gimson. Jane and William Morris share a grave beneath a simple stone tomb in the rustic village churchyard, designed to resemble a Viking tomb-house.

Returning to Lechlade and heading north out of town on the A361 for about 1 mile (1.5km), take a signed turning (Southrop and Hatherop) to the west just beyond Little Faringdon to reach the valley of the River Leach and Southrop.

The church at Southrop is on the left as you enter the village, and noted for its unusual Norman font, carved with armoured figures representing the Virtues trampling on beasts that represent the Vices. The names of the Virtues are carved in the arches above, while the names of the Vices are in mirror writing below, as if to emphasise the polarity of each Vice to its corresponding Virtue.

Many fine houses, surrounded by beautifully laid stone walls and threaded by the gentle river, make Southrop one of the most attractive villages in the area, though there is strong competition from Eastleach Turville and Eastleach Martin, just to the north – reached by turning right just beyond the Swan pub. Here the two parish churches stand almost next to each other on opposite banks of the river, linked by an ancient stone clapper bridge downhill through the village. The peace here is delightful, far from the busy towns and tourist hotspots. The village also has the excellent Victoria Inn (for more information, click here), situated high up on the left as you come through the village – the perfect place to stop for a drink or lunch, with lovely views and possibly some lively local banter.

Follow the road east keeping to the right, signposted Burford, and at the junction with A361 turn right to reach the pretty village of Filkins.

Turn left in the village for the Cotswold Woollen Weavers (tel: 01367-860 600; www.cotswoldwoollenweavers.co.uk; Mon–Sat 10am–6pm, Sun 2–6pm; free). Here, in a splendid, traditional working mill, you can watch craftsmen spinning and weaving fleece into woollen fabric using age-old skills, and visit the well-stocked shop. Turn left out of the mill for the A361.

Filkins is also home to the Swinford Museum (Fox House; tel: 01367-860 504; May–Sept 1st and 3rd Sun in the month 2–5pm; free), one of Oxfordshire’s oldest small museums, set up by George Swinford in the 1930s. Each year different exhibitions are displayed, often relating to the village of Filkins. On permanent display are local agricultural, craft and domestic items from the village’s rich past.

Three miles (5km) north is the Cotswold Wildlife Park 6 [map] (tel: 01993-823 006; www.cotswoldwildlifepark.co.uk; daily Apr–Oct 10am–6pm, Nov–Mar 10am–5, or dusk (last admission 90 minutes before closing); charge). This is the perfect place to spend a day with children (for more information, click here), enjoying its narrow-gauge railway, children’s farmyard, reptile houses and aquarium, not to mention the incongruous sight of zebras, rhinos and tigers roaming in Cotswold paddocks in front of a Gothic-style manor house. Conservation and breeding programmes are to the forefront and animals can also be ‘adopted’ thereby helping with the high costs for maintaining the park and its animals. The park is set in 160 acres (65 hectares) and also has superb gardens, including a Victorian walled kitchen garden.

Four miles (6.5km) to the north of the park is Burford 7 [map]. It may be described as over-commercialised, but its charms should not be ignored. Often referred to as the ‘Gateway to the Cotswolds’ it is part of the region designated the Oxfordshire Cotswolds (for more information, click here). It has one of the area’s finest high streets, lined with attractive 17th- and 18th-century houses, descending steeply to a packhorse bridge over the River Windrush.

The massive, cathedral-like church stands by the river. In the 19th century the church was so badly treated by restorers that an outraged William Morris was provoked into forming the Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings. However, there is much left to enjoy, including the splendid Renaissance monument to Edward Harman (died 1569), barber and surgeon to Henry VIII, decorated with American Indian figures. For more of Burford’s history visit the Tolsey Museum (126 High Street; tel: 01993-823 196; Apr–Oct Mon–Fri, Sun 2–5pm, Sat 11am–5pm; free). The town is popular for its eating places and independent shops, including gift and antique outlets.

It is worth making a short detour to Minster Lovell by following the signs along the A40 4 miles (6.5km) east from Burford. This exceptionally attractive village has a fine Perpendicular church and the ruined 15th-century Minster Lovell Hall (daylight hours; (for more information, click here)). From here, return to Burford.

West of Burford, the Windrush flows through a series of unspoiled villages. Quarries at Taynton and the Barringtons supplied stone for such notable buildings as Windsor Castle, Blenheim Palace, the crypt of St Paul’s Cathedral and several Oxford colleges. To reach Great Barrington, take the main street through Burford, go over the river and take the A424 for Stow-on-the-Wold, shortly taking a left turn to Taynton and on to the beautiful village of Great Barrington.

At Sherborne 8 [map] (www.nationaltrust.org.uk; open all year; small charge car park donation) the restored 18th-century watermeadows include sluice gates and channels that flood the fields in winter to protect grass from frost damage and thus produce early grazing. There are some excellent marked walks. Sherborne village was built as a model estate village in the mid-19th century, and consists of distinctive rows of identical stone cottages. The main house (in the centre of the village on the left and now apartments) has a magnificently flamboyant facade (1663). The church alongside contains a cluster of good monuments, including one that features an angel with fashionable décolletage carved by Richard Westmacott in 1791. Continue through the village and at the crossroads take the road south back down to the A40.

Cross over the A40 signposted to Lodge Park (tel: 01451-844 130; www.nationaltrust.org.uk; mid-Mar–Oct Fri–Sun 11am–4pm; charge), a rare example of a 17th-century hunting lodge (for more information, click here), beautifully restored by the National Trust. Continue south and take the next left for Aldsworth.

Climbing out of the Windrush Valley, cross the bare tops southwards by following the B4425 southwest to rejoin the Coln Valley at Bibury 9 [map], which William Morris called the prettiest village in England (Henry Ford agreed; in the 1920s he tried to buy houses in the village to transport back to America).

The River Coln flows along the main street of Bibury. Entering at the eastern end of the village, the unusually large church stands alongside Bibury Court, built in 1633 (now a hotel, (for more information, click here). Some of the original Saxon church survives, including fragments of cross shaft carved with interlace. There is a fine stained-glass window in the chancel by Karl Parsons (1884–1934). Heading west, between the river and the main street, is a green expanse of boggy watermeadow known as Rack Isle. On the left bank, close to the Catherine Wheel pub, are the picturesque Arlington Row cottages, built in 1380 as a monastic wool store. In the 17th century, this was converted into a row of weavers’ cottages, and the cloth produced here was sent to Arlington Mill, on the other side of Rack Isle, for fulling (de-greasing). The cloth was hung to dry on timber frames on Rack Isle. Sadly the mill has now closed both as a working concern and a museum.

As you approach Barnsley )[map] on the B4425, you will first skirt the tree-filled grounds of Barnsley Park (open to the public only during the Barnsley Festival in mid-May), before entering the main street of this village, where until quite recently telephone wires, overhead cables and televison aerials were banned as a way of preserving its timeless appearance. The village is famous for Barnsley House (through the village and to the left) where the splendid 4-acre (1.6-hectare) garden created by Rosemary Verey (1918–2001) became one of the most visited and influential in Britain. Her skill was to combine formal design with cottage garden planting, and indeed Prince Charles was so impressed that he invited her to advise him on his garden at Highgrove. Verey’s husband, David, who rescued various stone structures from demolished buildings in the area and used them to create gazebos and focal points, created the framework of the garden in the 1960s. Barnsley House is now an exclusive hotel (for more information, click here) but the garden is open to the public on selected days and on one Saturday in May to coincide with the flowering of the renowned laburnum walk; or visit when it is open for the National Gardens Scheme (for more information, click here). Otherwise, to see the gardens you can book lunch, tea or dinner at the hotel, or go to one of the plays or concerts held in the gardens in summer. Verey’s hallmark potager now supplies The Village Pub (for more information, click here) in Barnsley with vegetables.

Lechlade

Colleys

High Street; tel: 01367-252 218; www.colleyslechlade.co.uk; Tue–Thu noon–2pm, 6.30pm–9.45pm, Fri–Sat noon–2pm.

During the week Colleys Brasserie and Grill features locally sourced produce at a reasonable price. Colley’s Classics – four courses – are available in one sitting on Friday and Saturday night. Good Sunday set lunch. ££

The Trout Inn

Burford Street; tel: 01367-252 313; www.thetroutinn.com; food served Mon–Sat noon–2pm, 7–10pm, Sun noon–2.30pm, 7–9.30pm.

Expect a warm welcome at this popular pub fronting the river. Honest, home-made food includes dishes using local ingredients such as Bibury trout. ££

Eastleach Turville

The Victoria Inn

Tel: 01367-850 277; www.victoriainneastleach.co.uk; food served daily noon–2pm, 7–9pm (Sun dinner only July and Aug).

Beautifully situated, the Victoria is perfect for lunch. Freshly prepared offerings include excellent baguettes, stuffed with classic fillings such as brie and cranberry, but at heart this is a locals’ pub with great beer. £–££

Burford

The Angel

14 Witney Street; tel: 01993-822 714; www.theangelatburford.co.uk; Mon–Sat noon–3pm, 6–9.30pm, Sun noon–4pm, 6.30–8.30pm.

First-class lunches include platters of charcuterie or olives, humous and nuts. There’s also an excellent Sunday lunch menu and a set lunch menu for the rest of the week. ££

Huffkins

96–98 High Street; tel: 01993-822 126; www.huffkins.com; Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat 9am–5.30pm, Sun 10am–5pm.

The highlight here must surely be the freshly baked breads handcrafted on site. Also serves soups, sandwiches and scrumptious cakes. £

Barnsley

The Village Pub

Tel: 01285-740 421; www.thevillagepub.co.uk; Mon–Fri noon–2.30pm, 6–9.30pm, Sat noon–3pm, 6–9.30pm, Sun noon–3pm, 6–9pm.

This village pub is not run-of-the-mill. Classic English dishes with an innovative and creative twist feature on the menu. Try the local beef in ale pie or quail Scotch eggs. ££