Fresh Chinese Spring Rolls

2 sweet dried Chinese sausages (lap cheong, see note)

1 tablespoon oil

2 eggs, lightly beaten

8 spring roll wrappers

1 small cucumber, peeled and cut into strips

3 cakes (10 oz/300 g each) firm tofu, cut into cubes (page 47)

8 green onions (scallions), trimmed 1 cup (4 oz/120 g) cooked crabmeat, leave some to garnish

8 oz (250 g) bean sprouts, tails removed, blanched for 2 minutes

Sauce

1 cup (250 ml) Chicken Stock (page 12) or water

¼ cup (2 oz/50 g) palm sugar

2 tablespoons tamarind pulp soaked in ¼ cup (60 ml) water, mashed and strained to obtain the juice

½ cup (3 oz/90 g) roasted peanuts, finely ground

2 tablespoons Crispy Fried Shallots (page 13)

1 tablespoon fish sauce

1 tablespoon sweet black soy sauce (see note)

1 tablespoon oyster sauce

1 teaspoon salt

4 teaspoons tapioca flour or cornstarch mixed with

¼ cup (60 ml) water

¼ teaspoon five spice powder (page 80)

¼ cup (1 oz/30 g) dry-roasted sesame seeds

1 Steam the Chinese sausages for 5 to 6 minutes, cool and then cut them into 8 thin strips lengthwise.

2 Heat the oil in a wok or skillet over medium heat and fry the eggs into an omelet. Cut the omelet into 8 long pieces and set aside.

3 Place a spring roll wrapper on a flat surface and put a piece of sausage, omelet, cucumber, tofu, green onion, 2 tablespoons of crabmeat and some bean sprouts on the wrapper. Roll the wrapper up tightly. Repeat until you use all the wrappers.

4 To make the Sauce, combine all the ingredients, except the sesame seeds, in a saucepan. Cook over medium heat until the mixture boils, stir a few times. Add the sesame seeds when the mixture begins to thicken. Transfer to a serving dish.

5 Serve the rolls as they are, or steam the rolls for 1 to 2 minutes in a steamer or microwave oven. Garnish each roll with some crabmeat and serve with the Sauce on the side or drizzle over the top.

Sweet dried Chinese sausages (lap cheong) are perfumed with rose-flavored wine. Generally sold in pairs, these sausages keep without refrigeration and are normally sliced and cooked with other ingredients rather than being eaten on their own. They should not be eaten raw. Substitute any sweet, dried sausage or meat jerkey.

Sweet black soy sauce is not widely available in the West but can be approximated by adding ½ teaspoon brown sugar to 1 tablespoon of dark soy sauce. Hoisin sauce mixed with soy sauce also makes a good substitute.

Serves 8
Preparation time: 20 mins
Assembling time: 20 mins

Vietnamese Shrimp and Pork Salad Rolls

These rolls are like Vietnamese salad wrapped in rice paper wrappers. The aromatic herbs in the rolls lend a refreshing taste. If you are looking for a unique summer picnic dish, these are perfect!

2 cups (500 ml) water

1 green onion (scallion)

8 oz (250 g) lean pork

10 oz (300 g) fresh medium shrimp

12 sheets rice paper wrappers (see note)

1 small head butter lettuce, leaves washed and separated

1 4-oz (100-g) packet dried rice vermicelli (beehoon or mifen), blanched for 1 to 2 minutes until soft, then rinsed with cold water and drained

1 baby cucumber, quartered and thinly sliced

1 small carrot, grated

1 bunch fresh coriander leaves (cilantro), sliced

1 portion Vietnamese Peanut Sauce (page 12)

1 Bring the water and green onion to a boil over medium heat in a saucepan and poach the pork for 7 to 10 minutes until cooked. Remove and set aside to cool. Slice the pork into thin strips.

2 Bring the same pot of water to a boil again and poach the shrimp for 1 to 2 minutes until pink or just cooked. Remove and plunge into cold water to cool. Peel, devein and halve each shrimp lengthwise. Set aside.

3 To make a spring roll, briefly dip a rice paper wrapper in a bowl of water until soft. Remove and place on a dry surface, smoothing it with your fingers. Place a lettuce leaf onto the wrapper, closer to one edge, and top with some pork strips, rice vermicelli, cucumber and carrot. Fold the closest edge of the wrapper over the filling, then fold in the sides and roll up halfway. Place 2 halves of a shrimp, side by side, along the roll and top with the coriander leaves, then continue to roll up tightly to complete the folding. Repeat until all the ingredients are used up.

4 Arrange the spring rolls on a serving platter and serve with serving bowls of Vietnamese Peanut Sauce on the side.

Vietnamese rice paper wrappers are sold dried in plastic packets of 10 or 20. Other types of spring roll or wonton wrappers may substitute for rice paper wrappers although most of them are made from wheat flour and eggs, and the taste is therefore quite different.

Makes 12 rolls
Preparation time: 30 mins
Cooking time: 25 mins

Crispy Thai Spring Rolls

1 lb (500 g) ground pork or chicken

4 oz (100 g) dried bean thread noodles (see note)

2 dried black Chinese mushrooms, soaked in warm water for 20 minutes, stems discarded and caps sliced

3 cups (7 oz/200 g) green cabbage, shredded

2 cups (4 oz/100 g) bean sprouts, tails removed, blanched and roughly chopped

1 carrot, grated

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

2 tablespoons fresh coriander leaves (cilantro), chopped

2 tablespoons fish sauce

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon ground white pepper

1 large egg 24 spring roll wrappers

1 tablespoon cornstarch mixed with enough water to form paste

3 cups (750 ml) oil, for deep-frying

1 cup (250 ml) Sweet and Spicy Peanut Sauce (page 11)

1 Soak the dried bean thread noodles in water for 30 minutes, drain in a colander and cut into lengths.

2 Combine all the ingredients except the wrappers, cornstarch paste and oil in a mixing bowl. Lay a spring roll wrapper on a flat surface and place 2 tablespoons of the filling on the lower half of the wrapper. Fold the bottom edge of the wrapper over the filling. Next, fold the right and left edges over the first fold, then roll tightly. Seal the edge of roll with the cornstarch paste. Repeat until the wrappers and filling are finished.

3 Heat the oil in a wok over high heat. Place the rolls, a few at a time, into the oil and deep-fry until golden brown. Remove with a slotted spoon or tongs. Drain on paper towels. Serve hot with the Sweet and Spicy Peanut Sauce.

Bean thread noodles, also known as “cellophane” or “glass” noodles, are thin, clear strands made from mung bean starch and water. Soak in hot water for 15 minutes to soften. Available from Asian food stores.

Makes 24 rolls
Preparation time: 30 min + 30 mins soaking
Cooking time: 20 mins

Thai-style Egg Salad

12 leaves leafy green lettuce

6 hard-boiled eggs, shelled and thinly sliced

2 small shallots, thinly sliced

½ cup (1 oz/30 g) Chinese celery or Italian parsley, chopped

¼ cup (2 oz/50 g) Crispy Fried Shallots (page 13)

2 tablespoons Crispy Fried Garlic (page 13)

1 sprig fresh coriander leaves (cilantro), coarsely chopped

Dressing

1 tablespoons Thai chili paste (nam prik pao, see note)

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons freshly-squeezed lime juice

1 teaspoons sugar

1 Line a serving platter with the lettuce leaves. Place the egg slices on the leaves and sprinkle with the shallots, Chinese celery,Crispy Fried Garlic and Shallots, and fresh coriander leaves.

2 Combine the Dressing ingredients and pour over the salad just before serving.

Thai chili paste (nam prik pao) is a rich chili paste made from chilies, shallots, garlic, sugar, dried shrimp, fish sauce and sometimes tamarind. It is used as a spicy dip or added to soups and noodles. Chili paste comes in different strengths and is available in jars or plastic tubs in specialty stores.

Serves 4–6
Preparation time: 20 mins
Cooking time: 5 mins

Vietnamese Pork and Shrimp Crêpes

1 cup (4 oz/125 g) rice flour

1 cup (250 ml) water

1 cup (250 ml) thick coconut milk

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

1 to 2 tablespoons oil

3 cups (5 oz/150 g) bean sprouts, tails removed

2 green onions (scallions), minced

6 fresh black Chinese mushrooms, soaked in warm water for 20 minutes, stems discarded and caps sliced

1 portion Vietnamese Fish Sauce Dip (page 10)

Filling

7 oz (200 g) pork, very thinly sliced

8 oz (250 g) fresh medium shrimp, peeled and deveined

4 cloves garlic, minced 1 tablespoon fish sauce

½ teaspoon sugar 2 tablespoons oil 1 onion, halved and sliced

Lettuce Wraps

20 butter lettuce leaves, rinsed and trimmed

Sprigs of mint leaves

Sprigs of fresh coriander leaves (cilantro)

1 cucumber, peeled and thinly sliced

1 Make the Filling by combining the pork, shrimp, garlic, fish sauce and sugar in a large bowl and mixing well. Heat the oil in a wok or skillet over medium heat and stir-fry the onion slices for 1 to 2 minutes until fragrant and translucent. Add the pork and shrimp mixture, and stir-fry until the shrimp turn pink, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove and set aside.

2 To make the crêpe, mix the rice flour, water, coconut milk, salt and turmeric in a mixing bowl until a smooth batter is obtained. Set aside for 10 minutes, then strain to remove any lumps.

3 Heat a little oil in a non-stick skillet over medium heat, turning to grease the sides. When the pan is hot, pour in ⅓ cup (85 ml) of the batter and turn the pan to obtain a thin round layer of batter, about 8 in (20 cm) in diameter. Scatter a handful of the bean sprouts, green onions and mushroom onto the crêpe, followed by 2 heaping tablespoons of the Filling on one half of the crêpe. Reduce the heat to low, cover the pan and continue to fry for 3 to 4 minutes, until the crêpe turns golden brown and crispy. Fold the crêpe in half and slide it onto a plate. Repeat until all the batter and Filling are used up.

4 Slice the crêpe into sections and arrange with the Lettuce Wraps on a large serving platter. Serve immediately with a bowl of Vietnamese Fish Sauce Dip on the side.

5. To serve, wrap each section of the crêpe in a lettuce leaf together with some mint, coriander leaves and cucumber, and dip in the Vietnamese Fish Sauce Dip.

Makes 5 to 6 crepês or serves 4 to 6
Preparation time: 30 mins
Cooking time: 40 mins

Thai Lettuce Leaf Cups

The trick to enjoying this traditional Thai snack is in sampling a bit of everything in the leaf cup—the combined flavors and textures make this a real treat. Serve with Spicy-sweet Thai Dip.

1 lime or lemon, peeled and finely diced

2 in (5 cm) fresh ginger, peeled and diced

1 shallot, peeled and diced

¼ cup (1 oz/30 g) tiny dried shrimp or meat jerky or salami or sweet dried Chinese sausages (lap cheong), finely diced (see note)

1 tablespoon thinly sliced fresh red finger-length chilies

¼ cup (2 oz/45 g) roasted unsalted peanuts, skins removed

¼ cup (1⅓ oz/40 g) dry-roasted grated coconut (see note)

10 small leaves leafy green lettuce or bok choy leaves

1 cup (250 ml) Spicy-sweet Thai Dip (page 11)

1 Arrange the leaf cup ingredients in separate piles on a serving tray. Add the crushed peanuts to the Spicy-sweet Thai Dip and serve in a small dish.

2 To serve, make a triangular cone from a leaf and fill the cone with 1 teaspoon coconut. Add 1 piece of each of the other ingredients. Spoon ½ teaspoon Spicy-sweet Thai Dip over the contents and fold the leaf over to cover the filling before eating.

Sweet dried Chinese sausages (lap cheong) are perfumed with rose-flavored wine. Generally sold in pairs, these sausages keep without refrigeration and are normally sliced and cooked with other ingredients rather than being eaten on their own. They should not be eaten raw. Substitute any sweet, dried sausage or meat jerkey.

Heat a wok over very low heat, add the grated coconut and fry over very low heat, tossing them continually, until fragrant and golden brown, about 10 minutes. Set aside to cool before using.

Serves 12
Preparation and cooking time: 2 hours

Tapioca Dumplings with Pork Filling

2 cups (10 oz/300 g) dried tapioca pearls or tapioca flour (see note)

1 cup (250 ml) warm water

4 tablespoons Garlic Oil (page 13)

10 cups (2½ liters) water

2 tablespoons Crispy Fried Garlic (page 13), as garnish

1 head leafy green lettuce, leaves separated and rinsed

9 sprigs fresh coriander leaves (cilantro)

Filling

¼ cup (1 oz/30 g) diced preserved salted radish (see note)

3 fresh coriander (cilantro) roots

4 cloves garlic, peeled

½ teaspoon whole black peppercorns

2 tablespoons oil

1 cup (7 oz/200 g) ground pork

1 cup (5 oz/150 g) diced shallots or onions

½ cup (4 oz/100 g) palm sugar

¼ cup (60 ml) fish sauce

⅔ cup (3 oz/90 g) ground roasted peanuts

1 Combine the tapioca pearls or flour and warm water in a mixing bowl and stir with a wooden spoon until mixed. Knead into a soft dough. Cover with a moist cloth and set aside.

2 To make the Filling, wash the salted radish, squeeze dry and set aside. Using a pestle and mortar, pound the coriander roots, garlic and peppercorns until fine.

3 Heat the 2 tablespoons of oil over medium heat in a wok. Cook the pounded mixture until fragrant, about 3 minutes. Add the pork and keep stirring, breaking up any lumps. Add the onion and salted radish. Stir in the palm sugar and fish sauce and continue to cook until the liquid is almost evaporated. Add the peanuts. Stir until the Filling mixture thickens. Remove from the heat and cool.

4 To make the dumplings, dip your hands in cold water. Take about 1 teaspoon of the tapioca dough and shape it into a small ball, then flatten it. Place 1 teaspoon of the Filling in the center and gather the edges up to form a dumpling. Repeat until all the remaining dough and Filling are used up.

5 Use the Garlic Oil to oil a serving platter. Bring the 10 cups (2½ liters) of water to a boil in a large saucepan. Drop the tapioca dumplings into the water, about 10 pieces at a time. When they float to the surface, use a slotted spoon to scoop them out, place them on the serving platter and sprinkle with the Crispy Fried Garlic. Alternatively, steam the dumplings over high heat for 5 minutes. Serve with the lettuce leaves and coriander leaves for wrapping.

Preserved salted radish or chai poh is pickled Japanese radish or daikon. Often added to dishes for its crunchy texture and salty flavor, it is available at Asian markets.

Tapioca pearls are tiny beads made from cassava starch. The uncooked pearls are hard and white when dried, but turn soft and translucent when cooked. Tapioca pearls are often used in desserts and to thicken dough. The pearls are sold in plastic packets in Asian markets.

Makes 60
Preparation time: 50 mins
Cooking time: 20 mins

Steamed Shrimp Wonton Dumplings

30 circular wonton wrappers (see note)

3 tablespoons Garlic Oil (page 13)

¼ cup (60 ml) Sweet-sour Chili Dip (page 13)

1¼ in (3 cm) fresh ginger, very finely sliced

Filling

3 cloves garlic

3 fresh coriander (cilantro) roots

10 whole black peppercorns

1 cup (7 oz/200 g) ground pork

5 oz (150 g) fresh shrimp, chopped

1 small onion, chopped

6 water chestnuts, peeled and diced

1 tablespoon cornstarch

1 tablespoon sugar

1 teaspoon fish sauce

1 teaspoon soy sauce

½ teaspoon salt

1 To make the Filling, grind the garlic, coriander roots and peppercorns until fine. Combine this paste with the rest of the Filling ingredients in a mixing bowl until well blended.

2 Working with 1 wonton wrapper at a time, place 1 heaped teaspoon of the Filling in the center of the skin and gather the sides of the wrapper around the Filling, forming natural pleats. As you work, press on the Filling to pack it tightly.

3 Tap each dumpling lightly to flatten the bottom and make it stand upright. Place the dumplings in a steamer basket over boiling water, cover and steam over high heat for 5 minutes. Brush the tops with the Garlic Oil. Remove from the heat to a serving platter. To eat, dip the dumpling in the Sweet-sour Chili Dip and finely sliced ginger.

Wonton wrappers are made from wheat dough, and come in a variety of sizes and thicknesses. They are filled with meat or vegetables, then steamed, fried or used in soups. Fresh or frozen wonton wrappers are available in most supermarkets.

Makes 30 dumplings
Preparation time: 30 mins
Cooking time: 5 mins

Vietnamese Pork and Crab Imperial Rolls

Everyone loves these crispy Vietnamese spring rolls known as cha gio (pronounced “ cha yoh ”). These take a little time to prepare, but are well worth the effort.

12 dried rice paper wrappers (see note), each about 8 in/20 cm in diameter

Oil for deep-frying

1 portion Vietnamese Fish Sauce Dip (page 10)

Filling

2 oz (50 g) dried bean thread noodles, soaked in water for 20 minutes, drained, and cut into lengths (see note)

1 egg, beaten

8 oz (250 g) ground pork

1 cup (4 oz/120 g) cooked crabmeat

1 small onion, diced

2 green onions (scallions), minced

1 small carrot, grated to yield 1 cup (2 oz/50 g)

2 cups (4 oz/100 g) bean sprouts, tails removed, blanched and drained

½ teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon fish sauce

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Accompaniments

12 pieces butter lettuce leaves

Sprigs of mint leaves

Sprigs of fresh coriander leaves (cilantro)

1 small cucumber, cut into matchsticks

1 Make the Filling by combining all the ingredients in a large bowl and mixing until well blended.

2 To make a roll, briefly dip a rice paper wrapper in a bowl of water until soft. Remove and place on a dry surface, smoothing it with your fingers. Place 2 heaping tablespoons of the Filling along one side of the wrapper. Fold the closest edge of the wrapper over the Filling, then fold in the sides and roll up tightly, pressing to seal. Repeat until all the ingredients are used up.

3 Heat the oil in a wok or saucepan over medium-heat until hot. Gently lower the rolls into the oil, a few at a time, and deep-fry for 3 to 5 minutes each, until golden brown and crispy on all sides. Remove and drain on paper towels.

4 Place the deep-fried rolls on a serving platter with the Accompaniments and serve with dipping bowls of the Vietnamese Fish Sauce Dip on the side.

Bean thread noodles, also known as “cellophane” or “glass” noodles, are thin, clear strands made from mung bean starch and water. Soak in hot water for 15 minutes to soften. Available from Asian food stores.

Vietnamese rice paper wrappers are sold dried in plastic packets of 10 or 20. Other types of spring roll or wonton wrappers may substitute for rice paper wrappers although most of them are made from wheat flour and eggs, and the taste is therefore quite different.

Serves 4–6
Preparation time: 45 mins
Cooking time: 20 mins

Chicken and Shrimp Morsels in an Egg Net

2 eggs

2 tablespoons minced fresh coriander leaves (cilantro)

1 to 2 bird’s-eye chilies, thinly sliced

2 tablespoons oil

Filling

2 tablespoons oil

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 teaspoon crushed fresh coriander (cilantro) roots and stems

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

8 oz (250 g) fresh shrimp, peeled, deveined and minced

8 oz (250 g) ground chicken

1 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons shaved palm sugar or dark brown sugar

2 shallots, minced

4 tablespoons ground roasted peanuts

1 To make the Filling, heat the oil in a wok over medium heat and stir-fry the garlic, coriander roots and black pepper for 1 to 2 minutes until fragrant. Add the shrimp and chicken and stir-fry until barely cooked, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the salt, palm sugar, shallots and peanuts. Stir-fry for another minute. Remove and set aside.

2 Beat the eggs in a bowl. Make a cone from a piece of banana leaf or waxed paper (or use a frosting cone). Pour a small amount of the beaten eggs into the cone. Lightly grease a crêpe or omelet pan with a bit of oil and heat over medium heat. Once the pan is hot, squeeze lines of the beaten eggs slowly onto the pan in a zig-zag pattern, shaping it into a 4-in (10-cm) square net. Once the egg has set, carefully remove from the pan with a spatula and set aside to cool.

3 When cool enough to handle, place a small amount of coriander leaves and chilies in the center of each egg net. Then place 2 teaspoons of the Filling on top and fold the sides toward the center. Fold in the remaining sides to make a small square package. Serve immediately.

4 A simple alternative to the egg net is to prepare a very thin omelet. Cut the omelet into the required number of squares, place the coriander leaves, chilies and Filling onto each square and fold to make a small package.

Serves 4
Preparation time: 30 mins
Cooking time: 30 mins

Golden Dumplings

3 fresh coriander (cilantro) roots

5 cloves garlic, minced

5 black peppercorns

8 oz (250 g) fresh shrimp, finely chopped

8 oz (250 g) ground pork

4 oz (120 g) dried bean thread noodles, soaked in water for 20 minutes, drained, and cut into lengths (see note)

6 water chestnuts, peeled and finely chopped

½ teaspoon salt

½ tablespoon fish sauce

3 cups (750 ml) plus 2 tablespoons oil

30 small spring roll wrappers

30 green onion (scallion) leaves, blanched

Spicy-sweet Thai Dip (page 11)

1 Grind the coriander roots, garlic and peppercorns until fine. Transfer half of the paste to a mixing bowl. Add the shrimp, pork, noodles, water chestnuts, salt and fish sauce and stir well to combine.

2 Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a wok or skillet over medium–high heat. Add the remaining garlic paste and stir-fry until golden. Add the shrimp and pork mixture and stir-fry for 4 or 5 minutes. Remove from the heat.

3 Place a spring roll wrapper on a flat surface and spoon 1 tablespoon of the mixture onto the center of the wrapper. Gather the edges together to form a small sack. Tie the sack with a green onion leaf and set aside. Repeat with the remaining wrappers.

4 Heat the 3 cups of oil in a wok over medium heat and gently put the sacks in the oil, a few at a time. Fry the sacks until golden brown. Remove with a slotted spoon. Drain on a wire rack. Serve with the Spicy-sweet Thai Dip.

Bean thread noodles, also known as “cellophane” or “glass” noodles, are thin, clear strands made from mung bean starch and water. Soak in hot water for 15 minutes to soften. Available from Asian food stores.

Serves 4 to 6
Preparation time: 20 mins
Cooking time: 15 mins

Spicy Balinese Chicken Parcels

1½ lbs (700 g) chicken breast, sliced into strips

2 teaspoons tamarind pulp soaked in 2 tablespoons warm water, mashed and strained to obtain the juice

2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons oil

2 tablespoons minced shallots

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1–2 red finger-length chilies, thinly sliced

½ cup (125 ml) thick coconut milk

½ teaspoon salt

6–8 salam leaves or

3 sprigs lemon basil

3 banana leaf sheets, each about 10 x 18 in (25 x 45 cm), softened in hot water for wrapping (page 40)

Seasoning Paste

1 tablespoon coriander seeds

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

4 candlenuts

1–2 red finger-length chilies

4 shallots, peeled

3 cloves garlic, peeled

1 stalk lemongrass, tender inner part of bottom third only, sliced

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 in (2½ cm) fresh galangal or ginger root, peeled and sliced

1½ teaspoons palm sugar

1 teaspoon salt

1 To prepare the Seasoning Paste, dry-fry the coriander seeds, peppercorns and candlenuts in a skillet over low heat for 2–3 minutes until fragrant. Remove from the skillet and grind to a powder in a spice grinder. Add all the other Seasoning Paste ingredients. Process until finely ground, adding a little oil if needed to keep the mixture turning.

2 Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a wok. Add the Seasoning Paste and stir-fry over medium heat until fragrant, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate and set aside to cool.

3 Heat 2 teaspoons of the oil in the same wok. Stir-fry the shallots and garlic until translucent, about 2 minutes. Place in a large bowl and stir in the chicken, chilies, coconut milk, salt, salam leaves, tamarind juice and cooled Seasoning Paste, mixing thoroughly.

4 Wrap and cook the packages according to the steps outlined on pages 40–41. If banana leaves are not available, dish the filling into an ovenproof baking dish, cover and steam for 15 to 20 minutes.

Candlenuts are waxy, cream-colored nuts similar in size to macadamia nuts, which make a good substitute. They are never eaten raw but are ground and cooked with other seasonings. Store candlenuts in a cool, dry place.

Salam leaves are subtly flavored and comes from a tree in the cassia family. The taste bears no resemblance whatsoever to the taste of a bay leaf, which is sometimes suggested as a substitute. If you cannot obtain dried salam leaf, omit altogether.

Serves 4
Preparation time: 40 mins
Cooking time: 45 mins

Double-wrapped Banana Leaf Packets (Tum)

The banana leaf is a versatile cooking material that is widely used in preparing Asian dishes. It is frequently used to wrap foods for grilling, steaming, or grilling directly over hot coals. Almost any type of meat, such as duck, chicken, beef and even fish or eel, can be chopped, seasoned and wrapped in banana leaves to be cooked. To use, first rinse and wipe the banana leaf clean and cut it to the required sizes. Scald it with boiling water or heat it directly over a gas flame until it softens enough to be pliable without cracking. Fresh banana leaves are sometimes sold in Hispanic or Asian markets, but frozen banana leaves are more readily available. If banana leaves are not available, aluminum foil can be used, though it does not impart the subtle flavors that banana leaves do.

3 large sheets of banana leaf (about 10 in x 18 in/25 cm x 45 cm) as main wrappers

Small strips of banana leaf for outer wrapping

1 quantity Spicy Balinese Chicken filling (page 38)

Wok with cover and steaming rack or steamer set

Step 1: Cut the large banana leaf wrappers into 8 x 9 in (20 x 22 cm) sheets. Cut the smaller strips 2 x 8 in (5 x 20 cm) for the outer wrappers. Place 2 tablespoons of the Filling in the center of a large banana leaf wrapper.

Step 2: Pleat one side of the wrapper with your index finger and press the two resulting folds of the leaf together as shown to form “wings”.

Step 3: Repeat on the other side of the wrapper.

Step 4: Fold one wing from each side on the left and right to the front of the package.

Step 5: Fold the wings on the reverse side to the back of the package.

Step 6: Place the package in the center of a smaller strip of banana leaf and wrap it up around the pleats.

Step 7: Secure the top of both leaves with a single toothpick or staple the top with a stapler.

Step 8: Tuck in any open corners before steaming. Fill a wok or steamer with about 2 in (5 cm) of water. Bring the water to a boil. Place the packages on the steamer rack set inside the wok or steamer. Cover the wok or steamer and cook for 35 minutes, adding more boiling water as needed.

Spicy Indonesian Minced Beef Packets

1 lb (500 g) ground beef

3 eggs, lightly beaten

5–6 sour carambola, sliced (see note)

2–3 red finger-length chilies, deseeded and thinly sliced

8 salam leaves (optional)

1 cup (250 ml) coconut cream

4 banana leaf sheets, each about 10 x 18 in (25 x 45 cm), softened in hot water, cut into wrappers (page 40)

Spice Paste

3 teaspoons coriander seeds

½ teaspoon cumin seeds

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 candlenuts or unsalted raw macadamia nuts, chopped

8 shallots, peeled

½ in (1 cm) galangal root, peeled and sliced

½ in (1 cm) fresh ginger root, peeled and sliced

4 cloves garlic, peeled

1 tablespoon palm sugar or brown sugar

1 teaspoon salt

1 Prepare the Spice Paste by dry-frying the coriander and cumin seeds in a pan or skillet over low heat until fragrant, about 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a spice grinder or blender and grind with the pepper and candlenuts until fine. Add the shallots, galangal, ginger, garlic, sugar and salt and grind until smooth, adding a little of the coconut cream if needed to keep the mixture turning.

2 Place the beef in a large bowl with the Spice Paste, eggs, carambola and sliced chilies. Mix thoroughly to distribute the seasonings evenly.

3 Place 2 to 3 tablespoons of the beef, ½ salam leaf and 2 tablespoons of coconut cream in the center of a banana leaf wrapper. Repeat until all the remaining filling and wrappers are used. Wrap and steam the packets as described on pages 40–41.

Candlenuts are waxy, cream-colored nuts similar in size to macadamia nuts, which make a good substitute. They are never eaten raw but are ground and cooked with other seasonings. Store candlenuts in a cool, dry place.

Carambola is a pale-green acidic fruit about 2–3 in (5–8 cm) long that grows in clusters. Carambola is used whole or sliced to give a sour tang to soups, curries, fish dishes and sambals. Not to be confused with the larger, sweet, five-edged yellow-green star-fruit of the same family. Sour grapefruit juice or tamarind juice are good substitutes. If using sour carambola, mix the slices with 2 teaspoons salt, let stand for 10 minutes to draw out some of the acidity, then rinse before adding to meat.

Salam leaves are subtly flavored and comes from a tree in the cassia family. The taste bears no resemblance whatsoever to the taste of a bay leaf, which is sometimes suggested as a substitute. If you cannot obtain dried salam leaf, omit altogether.

Serves 4 to 6
Preparation time: 35–40 mins
Cooking time: 20 mins