4 No Holiday: Tora Bora, Afghanistan Image

Travel by mule train to hideouts high in the mountains of Tora Bora

How to get there

Fly to Kabul and charter a horse and cart to take you into the mountains. (Clear the better part of a year for this endeavor.) Tora Bora, or “land of black dust,” is one of many hideouts tucked away between jagged peaks perennially covered in snow and ice. Strategically located between two mountain ridges in the White Mountains of eastern Afghanistan, southeast of Kabul and southwest of Jalalabad, near the Pakistan border, it is only reachable by mule train.

Background briefing

The Tora Bora complex was originally built by extending natural caves, with the assistance of the CIA in the early 1980s. After the destruction of the World Trade Center, it became famous in newspapers as the supposed center of a global terrorist network—al-Qaeda. Diagrams of the caves were printed showing hotel-like corridors capable of sheltering more than 1,000 soldiers, equipped (unlike the rest of Afghanistan) with food, water and electricity. It also supposedly contained a large cache of ammunition, such as anti-aircraft missiles left over from the 1980s. The tunnels were said to be miles long, with exits over the border in Pakistan.

These caves are Osama Bin Laden's last known whereabouts.

What to see

The battle of Tora Bora took place in the White Mountains of eastern Afghanistan in late November and early December of 2001. Kabul had just fallen and a thousand or more al-Qaeda leaders were thought to have fled to Tora Bora, and to be “holed up” (as the US President liked to put it) in the mountains' vast network of caves.

Alas, none of the cave entrances visible today lead to the vast, underground complexes bin Laden was said to have resided in. Although a sniper's post on the ridge above might have commanded a field of fire of from two to three miles (3-4 km), these caves really are just caves. At best, perhaps they are where Mujahideen fighters sheltered or kept ammunition.

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Anyway, American planes have been along and dropped scores of bombs, creating strings of craters Image in the terrain as well as killing, according to the newspapers, hundreds of al-Qaeda fighters. Today however, the caves themselves appear to be largely untouched by all those air strikes, other than some rocky debris over the entrances.

Useful information

In 1979 the Soviets installed a progressive secular government (one that, amongst other things, accorded women full status and equal rights). In response, the United States developed the caves as bases for radical Islamic fundamentalists in a successful bid to topple the Kabul government.

There's no longer any hope of finding bin Laden in Tora Bora. But visitors can imagine him once in this area, maybe living in the abandoned huts still there, maybe even using a nearby cave as a bomb shelter.

Risk factor Image

Travel in Afghanistan is extremely risky. But this is not so much because of the locals who, like most impoverished people, are extremely courteous and considerate to visitors, but because of the presence of undercover soldiers and CIA agents. If you're tall and wear a turban you might also get blown up in a US air strike.