Finding spiritual intensity in bullfighting
Fly direct to the Costa Brava to join what's left of Catalonia's organized bullfighting, and savor what the American author, Ernest Hemingway, called its “spiritual intensity.”
Bullfighting is widespread in both Spain and Portugal. Estimates of how many bullfights occur annually vary, but it seems to be in the tens of thousands. But if the Spanish have chosen the ritual to define themselves, today it is tourists who prevent the ritual from becoming history.
Many of them will be clutching copies of Death in the Afternoon. In this classic account by Ernest Hemingway, the American turns bullfighting into a richly choreographed ballet led by a matador, playing out a role, ranging from that of coward to glory seeker. (James Joyce also describes bullfights in his novel Ulysses.)
But bullfighting is becoming controversial—even within Spain. Barcelona's mayor received a petition of 250,000 signatures asking the city to ban the practice, and rather to everyone's surprise, it did. So should tourists hesitate to support the tradition? As one travel writer says, “I sit happily on the fence. A bullfight is an exciting event to see and if you want to see it I say go buy a ticket! If you think the event is cruel and horrible then I say stay away, but don't look for me to make a decision or opinion on it here.”
But there are many supporters still prepared to defend it left. One such, the Catalan Bullfighting Federation's spokesman, German Jimenez, for example, told a reporter: “Bullfighting is an art form and a vital part of our history and culture.” A ban would involve caving in to the “ignorant” as well as pandering to excessively delicate modern sensibilities about animal welfare.
A typical Spanish bullfight lasts all afternoon and is somewhat of a play in three Acts. Or maybe a pantomime, for the crowd is encouraged to show its approval or impatience. As the animals writhe and bleed the tourists shout “Olé!” or “Torero!” to mean they like what they see—or whistle or slow handclap to show impatience. After a particularly exciting fight, the crowd will wave handkerchiefs to ask that the matador be awarded the coveted bull's tail (or ear) as a trophy.
Anyway, what will the day-tripper get to see? During Act I the matador sizes up the bull and with help from his assistants, the banderilleros, starts to wear him down. This is where he twirls the famous cape to attract the bull, and then directs the animal past his body, as close as his bravery allows. After a few such thrills, the picadors enter, mounted on horseback, and usually some others too, and jab swords into the muscle at the back of the bull's neck.
These horses are also important. They are what Hemingway calls the “comic characters.” As horses don't like fighting bulls, they have to be drugged and blindfolded to get them into the ring, and as they are often injured during the fights, only old tired ones are used.
Hemingway writes:
In the tragedy of the bullfight, the horse is the comic character... I have seen these, call them disemboweling, that is the worst word. When due to their timing, they were very funny. This is the sort of thing you should not admit, but it is because such things have not been admitted that the bullfight has never been explained.
In Act II, the bull is alternately enraged and weakened. The banderilleros leap around the bull, plunging brightly colored, barbed sticks into the bull's neck muscles, weakening the thrust of his horns.
At this point, the matador will bow to the crowd and ask permission to kill the bull. Then, after a bit more cape-work, the matador thrusts his sword between the animal's shoulder blades—usually taking several thrusts.
Typically, the bull is still alive, (and fully conscious) as his ears and tail are cut off.
Bullfighting “in the ring,” like the ancient gladiatorial contests of Rome, where the “ferocious lions” were frequently too sick to stand up, is a spectacle relying on a lot of behind the scenes preparation.
In order to get the animals reliably frenzied, they may need to be subjected to electric shock prods and poked with sharp sticks before being released in front of the crowds. This is particularly necessary as the bull may have had several weeks of being beaten before the fight. Blows may be administered to the kidneys and heavy weights hung around the animal's neck for several weeks before. As well as being kept in darkness prior to being released into the ring, petroleum jelly may be rubbed in their eyes to ensure that they are only barely able to see their tormentors. Some bulls have their horns “shaved” to ensure their thrusts miss.
In 200 years of bullfighting in Sevilla, only one matador has ever been killed, although from time to time bulls have plunged into the crowds. So you are probably better advised to see bull fighting from the relative security of standing in the ring with a cape.