Shortcut Crab, Omelette & Tomato Soup

– BUN RIEU CUA –

VIETNAM

What really gives the soup the name rieu is the mixture of beaten eggs and crab cua that’s swirled into the boiling broth at the last moment, to form a floating omelette. Like all Vietnamese food, this dish is a delicate balance of salty, sour and sweet, but in this case there is an added not-so-delicate pungency. Every family has its own version, but most traditionally the broth is made by pounding the shells of paddy crabs and simmering them with pork bones and tomatoes – the sheer effort of which is likely to put many off making this dish. This is a quick, unfussy version I make with a cleaner and more refreshing base, but just as punchy flavours. I use fermented shrimp paste for funky saltiness; and cherry tomatoes over regular tomatoes, because they add a natural sweetness rather than just tanginess. A lot of people use tinned pre-spiced crabmeat, but I prefer to use fresh when possible – the brown crabmeat is reasonably cheap and has much better flavour than the tinned version.

Serves 2–3

• 4 shallots, finely chopped
• 4 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
• 2 tablespoons fermented shrimp paste
• 1 tablespoons tomato purée
• 1 litre Asian pork or chicken stock (see here)
• 300g cherry tomatoes
• 1 tablespoon fish sauce

For the rieu

• 3 free-range eggs
• 2 tablespoons cooked chilli garlic sauce (see here)
• 1 teaspoon fermented shrimp paste
• 150g cooked brown crabmeat

To serve*

• cooked rice vermicelli
• beansprouts
• fresh mint
• fresh coriander
• fresh Thai basil
• lime wedges

1. Lightly fry the shallots and garlic in a medium-sized pot until fragrant. Add the fermented shrimp paste and tomato purée and continue frying for half a minute.
2. Pour in the stock and bring to the boil, then add the cherry tomatoes. Turn the heat down to medium low and simmer until the tomatoes have burst their skins. Lightly mash most of the tomatoes to release their juices, leaving some whole for serving. Season with the fish sauce.
3. While the broth is cooking, prepare the rieu. Beat the eggs together, then add the chilli garlic sauce, fermented shrimp paste and brown crabmeat. Stir to make sure everything is well mixed, breaking up any lumps of crab.
4. Bring the broth back to a gentle boil. Stir it quickly to create a little whirlpool, then pour the egg mixture into the middle. Stop stirring – in fact, do not touch the broth and just let it do its thing. The mixture will rise to the top and form a rough omelette.
5. To serve, divide the rice vermicelli and beansprouts between bowls, then pour the hot broth over, making sure each bowl has a bit of rieu and tomatoes. Serve the herbs and lime wedges on the side for people to add, as they like.