Barbecued Sambal Lemon Sole

On banana leaves

SINGAPORE / MALAYSIA

There is something about the combined smell of smoking charcoal, burnt banana leaves and charred seafood that really does it for me. Fish straight from the grill, its flesh dripping with chilli, is often the highlight of weekend get-togethers at the beach. Many Southeast Asian cultures will barbecue fish with banana leaves, either wrapped in a parcel or placed on top of a little banana leaf sheet. The leaves provide the delicate fish with a perfect shield from the hot flames, and lend a wonderful aroma to the dish. Stingray, or skate, is usually the fish of choice for Singaporean hawkers, but I avoid this critically endangered fish, opting for other delicious and sustainable flatfish like lemon sole.

Serves 2–4

• 3 pieces of banana leaf
• 1 whole lemon sole, cleaned
• 1 tablespoon groundnut oil
• sea salt
• 5 tablespoons sambal tumis belachan (see here)

For the dipping sauce

• 1 red bird’s-eye chilli, finely chopped
• 1 shallot, sliced
• 2 tablespoons lime juice
• 1 tablespoon fish sauce
• 1 teaspoon unrefined cane sugar

To serve

• fresh coriander leaves
• lime wedges

You will also need

• toothpicks

1. Cut the banana leaves into pieces that are roughly the size of the fish. If you’re using fresh banana leaves, soak them in hot water to soften before wiping dry. If using frozen banana leaves, make sure they are fully defrosted and wiped dry.
2. Pat the fish dry and cut 3 slits diagonally across the middle to help it cook more evenly. Brush both sides with oil and season generously with sea salt. Take one sheet of banana leaf and smear with half the sambal.
3. Fire up your barbecue. Place the sambal-smeared banana leaf on the grill, with the sambal-smeared side facing up. Lay the fish over the sambal, dark side up. Smear more sambal over that upper side of the fish. Cover with another sheet of banana leaf and secure with toothpicks to make a parcel. Let it grill for 7–10 minutes. You should smell the fragrance of burnt banana leaves and the flesh of the fish should come easily away from the bone. Alternatively, you can grill the fish in the oven with the setting turned up to high.
4. Meanwhile, make the dipping sauce by stirring the ingredients together.
5. Remove the fish from the grill and transfer it to a fresh sheet of banana leaf. Scatter coriander over and serve with the dipping sauce and lime wedges.

Notes: Besides flatfish, you can use whole mackerel or other firm, meaty fish as long as they are on the bone. Make sure to flip once so that the fish cooks evenly.

It is possible to make this dish using foil if you can’t get banana leaves. You miss the aroma of burnt banana leaves, but the dish will still taste delicious.