Nyonya Grilled Quails

With coconut & spices – AYAM PANGGANG –

SINGAPORE / MALAYSIA (PERANAKAN)

My default chicken marinade for a barbecue is soy sauce, rice wine and sugar, but when I’m really out to impress I get out my pestle and mortar (or blender) and make ayam panggang. Traditionally, whole chickens are spatchcocked and then smothered in the spice paste, but I use quails instead, as they are more tender and cook quicker on the grill. The birds are then thrown over glowing coals for a gloriously heady mix of smoky, sweet and spicy aromas.

Serves 4

• 4 free-range quails (about 200g each)
• 200ml thick coconut milk
• 2 tablespoons melted coconut oil or groundnut oil

For the rempah (spice paste)

• 150g shallots
• 5 large red chillies
• 3 stalks of lemongrass, white part only (reserve the woody tops for later)
• 3 kaffir lime leaves
• 1 tablespoon toasted belachan (fermented shrimp paste)
• 1 tablespoon ground coriander
• 1 tablespoon ground turmeric
• 3 tablespoons brown sugar
• 2 teaspoons sea salt
• 1 teaspoon ground white pepper

To finish

• juice of 1 lime
• fresh coriander

1. Turn each quail upside-down and, using a pair of sturdy kitchen scissors, snip down each side of its backbone. Pull out the bone and discard. Turn the quail breast side up and push down hard on the breastbone to flatten it. You could also persuade your butcher to do this for you.
2. Blend or pound the ingredients for the spice paste in a mortar and pestle in the order they are listed until you get a thick smooth spice paste (rempah). Mix the coconut milk with the rempah to make a marinade. Place the spatchcocked quails in a large resealable bag and pour the marinade over, making sure it is well distributed. Let rest in the fridge overnight, or for at least 4 hours, flipping over occasionally.
3. Remove the marinated quails from the fridge an hour before you want to cook them, to let them come to room temperature while you prepare your charcoal and fire up your barbecue. Take the quails out of their marinade, and put the leftover marinade into a small pan. Simmer gently, letting it reduce until you get a thick, rich coconut sauce.
4. Using the reserved lemongrass stalks, lightly brush the quails with the oil. Lay them skin side down on the barbecue and cook on a medium heat until they have nice char lines, about 5–7 minutes. Turn and cook on the other side for a further 5 minutes. Keep basting them with the lemongrass stalks dipped in oil.*
5. Once cooked, let the quails rest for 5 minutes for the juices to return and for them to cool down enough to be manhandled. Finish with a squeeze of lime, and serve with chopped coriander and a bowl of the coconut sauce for dipping.

Note: You can also use chicken or chicken pieces – just adjust the grilling time accordingly (about 15 minutes on each side for a small spatchcocked chicken; or 10 minutes on each side for chicken thighs).