Eggs are one of the first things I learnt to cook in the kitchen. I stubbornly refuse to believe people who say they can’t cook at all. If you can put a pan on the stove and crack an egg over it, you can cook. Eggs are a godsend for speedy breakfasts, lunches and dinners. They’ve saved me on many harried nights when faced with a less than ideal fridge situation; and on countless hungover mornings while I was a student.

They’re also what I default to when I’m cooking for vegetarians, along with tofu. Meat was (and still is, for many regions) considered a luxury in Southeast Asia, so eggs and tofu were common everyday sources of cheap protein.

There is so much you can do with eggs besides frying and boiling. A fresh egg can be slipped into simmering broth or congee, and gently poached until just set. Beaten eggs can be combined with a splash of stock and then steamed to form a delicate savoury custard (see here). Thai son-in-law eggs and Malay sambal telur (see here) both call for deep-frying eggs in hot oil until they get a crisp golden jacket on the outside.

Tofu also takes on different techniques and ingredients wonderfully. Unfortunately, many of my friends here in the UK don’t have the fondest impression of tofu. To them, it’s tasteless and boring; but to me, the blandness of tofu is exactly what makes it so wonderful. You can simmer it in curry, braise it in stock (see home-style braised tofu, here), marinate it in sweet soy sauce (see Teochew soy sauce braised duck legs, here), or fry it and serve it with a punchy dip or dressing. Tofu’s quiet ability to take on sauces and seasonings is what makes it a gem of an ingredient.

The versatility of eggs and tofu means that this chapter is only a snippet of what’s possible. Most often, my favourite egg and tofu recipes just simply involve the sorry ends of vegetables lying in my fridge, a bit of leftover rice, and a splash of soy sauce.