Spicy Peranakan Mixed Pickles

– NYONYA ACHAR –

SINGAPORE / MALAYSIA (PERANAKAN)

If you’ve never had nyonya achar, think of it as a spicier, more aromatic version of the British piccalilli. Each bite yields a different texture on the tongue, a delightful crunch of late summer vegetables and roasted peanuts, and each crunch gives way to a flavour explosion of sweet, sour and spicy. It’s usually served on the side, with grilled meats or richer dishes like nasi lemak (see here), but I find myself sneaking bites of achar straight from the jar. Late summer is the most strategic time of the year to make this, when all the vegetables required – chillies included – are at their prime. This is adapted from a recipe of my aunt, who is known as the achar-maker in the family. She makes jars and jars of this at once and gives them out during festive seasons. You can and should multiply this recipe; it will last for a while and the flavours only meld and become more explosive with time.

Makes 2 x 0.5 litre jars

• 200g cauliflower*
• 500g cucumbers (2 large)*
• 100g carrots*
• 100g French beans*

For salting/blanching

• 2 tablespoons sea salt

For the marinade

• 150g shallots (3 or 4 large)
• 4 large hot red chillies
• 2 dried red chillies, soaked
• 1 stalk of lemongrass
• 1 heaped teaspoon turmeric
• 2 tablespoons groundnut oil, for frying
• 125ml white rice vinegar
• 200g unrefined light cane sugar

To finish

• a large handful of toasted sesame seeds
• a large handful of freshly roasted peanuts, crushed

1. Break the cauliflower into small florets, and chop the other vegetables into finger-length batons. Sprinkle half the salt over the cucumbers and carrots and set aside to sweat for 30 minutes. Blanch the cauliflower and green beans very briefly in boiling water with the rest of the salt, just long enough for the water to return to the boil, then drain and lay out to dry, or chuck into a very low oven.
2. You’ve got about 30 minutes of waiting to do while the vegetables either sweat or dry, so take the time to make the marinade. Pound or blend the shallots, chillies, lemongrass and turmeric to make your rempah (spice paste), then fry the paste in the oil on a medium-low heat till aromatic. Add the vinegar and sugar, bring to the boil, and let cool.
3. While the marinade is cooling, drain, squeeze and pat dry the cucumbers and carrots. Combine with the other vegetables, then pour the marinade over and mix well. I like to set the toasted sesame seeds and peanuts aside to be mixed in just before serving, so they stay crunchy.
4. Transfer into glass or other non-reactive jars. Don’t worry if it seems the marinade can’t cover all the vegetables; they will release liquid as they pickle. Let the vegetables sit in the marinade for at least a day before eating. The achar will keep for up to 3 weeks in the fridge (for the strong-willed).

Note: Chopped pineapple and tender leaves of cabbage can also be added. In fact my cousin tutted when I left out pineapple, but I wanted to keep this pickle very much a celebration of British summer.