Eating Out

What and Where to Eat

Travelers arriving in Argentina from other, less gastronomically diverse, South American countries, often experience a wave of relief upon seeing their first menu. Argentines regard eating out as one of life’s great and essential pleasures, and you should expect to put on a few pounds while you are here.

The standard menu in Buenos Aires, and in many other regions too, revolves around the three Ps – parrilla (steak), pasta and pizza. (The Italian immigrants of the late 19th century brought along their cookbooks.) We might also add a fourth P, postre or pudding, since Argentines are notoriously sweet-toothed. Empanadas are served everywhere, and in the Northwest, they are a staple. Surprisingly, given the long coastline, many Argentines regard fish as something to be eaten on Good Friday or when there’s no meat available.

Restaurants serving international cuisine have become far more prevalent since the turn of the century, particularly in the capital. Trendy Buenos Aires barrios like Palermo Viejo and San Telmo are now chock-a-block with smart sushi restaurants, French-style bistros, and even Peruvian-Japanese fusion joints.

Traditional Argentine restaurants come in three flavors: parrillas, bodegones and cantinas. Parrillas (steakhouses) are ubiquitous and run the gamut from upmarket establishments with prodigious wine lists and bilingual menus to holes in the wall with garden furniture and a binary wine choice (red or white). Bodegones and cantinas are usually family-run establishments, with a close connection to their neighborhood. Often decorated with football posters and staffed by laconic waiters in tuxedos, these places tend to serve a wide variety of traditional dishes, including, but not restricted to, grilled meat and pasta.

Except for in a few specialist places, vegetarians are tolerated rather than celebrated and will find themselves eating a lot of cheese and pasta. (Note that if you say, “I don’t eat meat,” most waiters will interpret this as “I don’t eat beef.”) An increasing number of restaurants are offering what they call “organic” food, but the term is defined extremely loosely, so apply skepticism.

Practicalities

Restaurants in Argentina open for lunch at noon, though few people sit down to eat before 1pm. In the evening, restaurants start filling up at 9pm and not before, so aiming to arrive at 8.50pm is a good strategy if you want to avoid waiting in line. (Reservations are rarely essential.) At the weekends restaurants stay busy into the wee small hours. Many close on Monday. Small family-run places may close for several weeks in January or February while the owners are on holiday. Children and babies are welcome in all traditional restaurants and you should expect everyone from the owner downwards to fuss over them. Trendy contemporary places tend to be more adult oriented.

Waiters expect to receive a 10 percent tip and are pleasantly surprised if they get more than that. You may notice a surcharge on your bill for cubiertos. This is essentially a cover charge, the cost of which varies from place to place.

Buenos Aires

Parrillas and Traditional Argentine

Cumaná

Rodríguez Peña 1149, Recoleta

Tel: 011-4813 9207

To get top-notch empanadas, humita (creamed corn) or locro (bean and corn stew with chunks of meat and spicy chorizo), you need to catch a plane to Argentina’s Northeast or visit a place like Cumaná. They do not take reservations, so be prepared to wait for a table. $$

El Obrero

Agustín Caffarena 64, La Boca

Tel: 011-4362 9912

Everyone seems to love this timeless La Boca institution, with its chalkboard menus, diverse clientele, and bathrooms that have seen better centuries. Grilled meat, milanesas, pasta, flan with dulce de leche … everything is fresh, hearty, and delicious. $$

El Trapiche

Paraguay 5099, Palermo

Tel: 011-4772 7343

The exhaustive menu at this sprawling bodegón reads like an encyclopedia of traditional porteño cuisine. Tucked away among the meat and pasta standards are classic dishes like pollo a la maryland (chicken maryland) and revuelto gramajo (a kind of ham, potato, and egg hash). $$

Gran Parrilla del Plata

Chile 594, San Telmo

Tel: 011-4300 8858

Bottles of cheap red wine line the shelves of this San Telmo steakhouse – always a good sign in a parrilla. Wait for a table (it is usually packed, another good sign) and then refuel on steak, salad and papas fritas (french fries). $$

Happening

Alicia Moreau de Justo 310 Puerto Madero

Tel: 011-4319 8712

Strange name, great parrilla. Try to get one of the window tables for a view of the docks while you make short work of a peerless provoleta (grilled cheese) and a stack of tira de asado (ribs). The service is excellent. $$$

La Brigada

Estados Unidos 465, San Telmo

Tel: 011-4361 5557

The waiters dole out the meat by cutting it with a dessert spoon at this classic San Telmo steakhouse. The chinchulines de cordero (lamb’s small intestine) are a house specialty, and the wine list is a love letter to Malbec. $$$

La Cabrera

Cabrera 5099, Palermo

Tel: 011-4831 7002

At this popular parrilla (one of the best in town), the tender, not to mention enormous, cuts of top-grade beef come (unusually) with a myriad of tapas-style side dishes. Reserve a table or be prepared to stand in line for an hour or more. $$$

Munich Recoleta

Roberto M. Ortiz 1871, Recoleta

Tel: 011-4804 3981

Resembling a slightly down-on-its-luck gentleman’s club and attended by saturnine waiters in tuxedoes, Munich is reassuringly old school. The lomo (tenderloin) is as juicy and tender as a ripe melon – particularly if you order it jugoso (rare). $$$

Parrilla Peña

Rodríguez Peña 682, Centro

Tel: 011-4371 5643

With its uninspiring decor and boilerplate menu, this is one of those steakhouses you might walk straight past. Don’t. Its charming staff and consistently good meat have made the Peña a neighborhood favorite. $$

International and Modern Argentine

Aldo’s Vinoteca & Restorán

Moreno 376, Monserrat

Tel: 011-5291 2380

Named for one of its owners, sommelier Aldo Graziani, this handsome wine bar and restaurant has a unique selling point: each of the 500 carefully selected Argentine wines on its list is sold at cost, with no mark-up. The food is good value too, with steak, fish, and risotto dishes available to match whatever wine you pick. $$$

Crizia

Gorriti 5143, Palermo

Tel: 011-4831 4979

Low lit and intimate despite being housed in a cavernous converted warehouse, Crizia is a top spot for a hot date or a wedding anniversary. Start with a plate of oysters and a peerless bloody mary, and then move on to one of the creative mains, with both surf and turf well represented. $$$

La Panadería de Pablo

Defensa 269, Monserrat

Tel: 011-4331 6728

In an award-winning neo-industrial space by designer Horacio Gallo, celebrity chef Pablo Massey offers a short but tempting menu emphasizing fresh, seasonal ingredients. The salads (including an excellent Caesar) are among the best in town. $$

Olsen

Gorriti 5870, Palermo

Tel: 011-4776 7677

Refurbished in 2011 to mark its 10th anniversary (an age in Palermo Viejo terms), German Martitegui’s flagship restaurant is as trendy as ever. The Nordic cuisine is best enjoyed on the deck overlooking the sculpture garden. The vodka selection is unbeatable, the Sunday brunch an institution. $$$

Sanbenito

Av. Federico Lacroze 2136 Belgrano

Tel: 011-4771 1859

Opened in 2011, this snazzy split-level restaurant has quickly built up a big fanbase. The lunch menu comprises sandwiches, tarts and salads, while the evening one is more ambitious, with Lomo a la Wellington (beef Wellington) a stand-out dish. Terrific cocktails too. $$$

Pizza

El Cuartito

Talcahuano 937, Recoleta

Tel: 011-4816 1758

Expect to wait for a table at this noisy, brightly lit pizzeria whose walls are plastered with boxing posters. The pies are thick and doughy, and you will need a slice of fainá (made from fried chickpeas) to mop up the excess cheese. $

Guerrín

Av. Corrientes 1368, Centro

Tel: 011-4371 8141

This is one of several traditional and always lively pizzerias on Avenida Corrientes, right in the heart of theaterland. Either prop up the marble bar or grab a table in the back room or upstairs. If you want to do a pizza crawl, make your next stop Banchero, two blocks from here going towards the Obelisco. $

Japanese

Tô

Costa Rica 6000, Palermo

Tel: 011-4772 8569

Pioneering what owner Toufic Reda calls “frapanese” cuisine (a fusion of French and Japanese but tilted toward the latter), this beautifully designed Palermo hotspot attracts TV personalities, local politicians, footballers, tourists, and anyone with an adventurous palate. If you are not sure what to order, try the bento box, which comfortably feeds two. $$$

Spanish

Café San Juan

San Juan 450, San Telmo

Tel: 011-4300 1112

Formerly the city’s best-kept dining secret, Leandro Cristóbal’s bistro is now abuzz night and day with a mix of tourists and locals. The short menu is listed on a chalkboard, with tapas-style starters followed by hearty mains like the terrific rabbit stew. $$

Plaza Asturias

Av. de Mayo 1199, Centro

Tel: 011-4382 7334

Cured hams hang from the ceiling and photos of the Spanish royal family adorn the walls at this popular bodegón, whose menu comprises both Iberian and Argentine standards. A paella or brochette de lomo (tenderloin) will comfortably feed two. The complimentary limoncello digestif is a nice touch. $$

Vegetarian

Arevalito

Arévalo 1478, Palermo

Tel: 011-4776 4252

This tiny but terrific veggie restaurant has four rickety tables inside and a few more scattered on the pavement. Choose from various tarts, salads, and sandwich specials, all freshly prepared and invariably delicious. Good juices and smoothies and a handful of wicked desserts round out the options. $$

Siempre Verde

Arribeños 2127, Belgrano

Tel: 011-15 5454 6481

Popular with students and Buddhist monks, this spartan Chinese vegetarian restaurant offers a terrific range of dishes at knock-down prices. Try the carne de hongos (mushroom meat) and a fresh fruit licuado (smoothie). $

Cafés and Confiterías

Café La Biela

Av. Quintana 596, Recoleta

Tel: 011-4804 0449

Memorably described in Miranda France’s mordant travelogue Bad Times in Buenos Aires (1999) as being “full of wealthy divorcees, reflecting one another in their sunglasses,” this famous Recoleta café is good for afternoon tea and sublime for people-watching. You pay more on the terrace, but it’s worth it. $$

Café Tortoni

Av. de Mayo 825, Centro

Tel: 011-4342 4328

Buenos Aires’ most famous café is more of a sightseeing destination these days, with an overpriced menu geared toward its mostly foreign clientele. Still, there’s no better way to kick-start the system on a cold day than with the Tortoni’s chocolate con churros (hot chocolate with churros). $$$

La Giralda

Av. Corrientes 1453

Tel: 011-4371 3846

If you want to upset your cardiologist, order a brace of dark chocolate-coated churros stuffed with dulce de leche at this Avenida Corrientes classic. $

Mar y Sierras

Pinamar

El Viejo Lobo

Av. del Mar and Bunge

Tel: 02254-483 218

With over 50 years in the business, “The Old Sea Lion” is well named. The fish is fresh and properly prepared: try the sole with capers. The wine list is good too. $$

La Trattoria del Mare

Av. Bunge 1230

Tel: 02254-48 5664

This informal, family-friendly restaurant specializes in both surf and turf. Try the rabas (deep-fried calamari) or the lomo a la pimienta (grilled tenderloin studded with peppercorns). $$

Mar del Plata

Ambos Mundos

Rivadavía 2644

Tel: 0223-495 0450

If the temperature drops in Mar del Plata, as it all too often does, this is the place to come for a limb-warming puchero gallina (a kind of pot-au-feu made with chicken). Various other traditional Spanish and Argentine dishes round out the menu. $$

Confitería Boston

Buenos Aires 1927

Tel: 0223-495 4040

With numerous branches around town, this café chain is a classic of Mar del Plata. Don’t miss the dulce de leche alfajores. $

Stella Maris

Alberti 1201

Tel: 0223-451 5183

With its white tablecloths and checkerboard floor, Stella Maris looks like a good place to eat – and is. Try the salmón blanco (sand perch) or the cazuela de mariscos (mixed shellfish casserole). $$

Cariló

Acqua & Farina

Boyero 1441

Tel: 02254-570 278

At this lively Italian joint, ultra-thin pizzas (a rarity in Argentina) emerge cheese-bubblingly hot from a clay oven. There’s a good range of pasta and seafood dishes too. $$

La Ventola

Castaño 1551

Tel: 02254-572 222

Always packed of a summer evening, this is one of the best places in town for fresh grilled fish, paella, and mixed seafood platters. $$

Central Sierras

Córdoba

Alcorta

Figueroa Alcorta 330

Tel: 0351-424 7452

In a city of many steakhouses, this is one of the best. The beef is top quality, the portions generous, the service professional and friendly. If you have had enough cow, try the kid. $$

Jacinto Bistró

Jacinto Ríos 126

Tel: 0351-452 5525

Housed in a red-brick townhouse from the 1920s, this is an intimate joint serving creative cuisine. You can order off the menu, with dishes like kid in a Malbec glaze and and trout stuffed with pesto stand-out options, or sit back and let the eight-course tasting menu take the strain. $$$

Río Ceballos

La Nueva Vienesa

Av. San Martín 5285

Tel: 03543-450 536

This popular café serves an impressive and delicious range of pastries, cakes, and tarts. $

La Cumbre

Nguillatun

Belgrano 498

This popular restaurant is open all year round and serves tapas-style dishes, picadas (cured meat and cheese platters), and a range of salads. $$

Restaurante Tomás

25 de Mayo 462

Tel: 03548-452 840

Specializing in barbecued kid and home-made pastas, this crowd-pleasing parrilla fills up quickly on summer evenings. $$

Villa General Belgrano

Viejo Munich

Av. San Martín 362

Tel: 03546-46 3122

One of several excellent German restaurants in town, Viejo Munich serves platters of cured wild boar and venison, as well as pickled trout, Tyrolean-style ham, and other central European dishes. The beer brewed on the premises is the perfect accompaniment. $$

The Northeast

Puerto Iguazú

Aqua

Av. Córdoba and Carlos Thays

Tel: 03757-422 064

Always crowded with tourists, Aqua is a good option in a town full of uninspiring restaurants. The steaks are tougher than the ones served in Buenos Aires, but the grilled river fish – choose from pejerrey, surubí, and pacú – is excellent. $$

Il Fratello

Gustavo Eppens 294

Tel: 03757-424 157

A big, shareable portion of rabas (deep-fried calamari) is the way to kick things off at this lively Italian restaurant, which also serves decent grilled river fish and rectangular pizzas. $$

La Rueda

Avenida Córdoba 28

Tel: 03757-422 531

A going concern for more than 30 years, La Rueda is a local classic. Choose between meat (just OK) and river fish (terrific if you like flavorful oily fish), and order from a wine list that stretches to 300 labels. $$$

The Northwest

Salta

Boliche Balderrama

Av. San Martín 1126

Tel: 0387-421 1542

You can get good versions of regional dishes like locro (thick stew) and humita at this traditional restaurant, with live folkloric music to listen to while you eat. $$

Doña Salta

Córdoba 46

Tel: 0387-432 1921

Best visited on a cold day, this Salta classic serves up great regional comfort food, such as locro, carbonada and, of course, empanadas. Be prepared to wait for a table. $–$$

El Charrúa

Caseros 221

Tel: 0387-432 1859

Steak is not usually the best thing to order in Salta but this excellent parrilla would not be out of place in Buenos Aires. Try a local wine, such as the Colomé blend or the highly rated San Pedro de Yacochuya Malbec. $$

El Patio de la Empanada

San Martín and Isla Malvinas

Tel: 0387-431 4484

The name says it all, really: a dozen or so open-air stalls selling various kinds of empanadas – including some sweet varieties – to hungry passers-by. All fast food should be like this. $

Purmamarca

La Posta

Rivadavia s/n (on the main plaza)

Tel: 0388-490 8029

Lamb stew and leg of llama are two of the specialties at this colorful stone-and-adobe restaurant. The patio at the back is a great place to be on a warm evening. $$

Tilcara

El Portal de la Quebrada

Av. 17 de Octubre s/n

Tel: 0388-495 5407

This large, unpretentious canteen is a good place to drop in for a quick, low-budget bite. The regional dishes on the menu include locro and cazuela de cabrito (goat stew). $

Cafayate

La Carreta de Don Olegario

Av. Gral. Güemes 20

Tel: 03868-421 004

Located on the central plaza, this restaurant serves locro and other local specialties. Live folkloric bands and singers perform here on certain evenings. $$

Terruño

Av. Gral. Güemes 28

Tel: 03868-422 460

Arguably the best restaurant in Cafayate, Terruño serves good versions of all the usual regional staples but does not stop there: there are also good fish, pasta, and salad options on the menu. Come early if you want to get a pavement table. $$–$$$

The Cuyo

Mendoza

1884 de Francis Mallmann

Belgrano 1188

Tel: 0261-424 2698

Housed in Bodega Escorihuela, this is the flagship restaurant of Francis Mallmann, Argentina’s best-known chef. The dining room is lit by antique chandeliers, and windows look out onto an attractive garden. Try the kid roasted slowly over hot embers and served with seasonal greens. $$$

Azafrán

Sarmiento 765

Tel: 0261-429 4200

Either reserve ahead or roll up at an odd time if you want to get a table at this incredibly popular restaurant. Choose a wine from the adjoining cellar (a sommelier is on hand to help you) and then bring it to your table. The menu is creative and has some meat-free options (asparagus risotto, for example). $$–$$$

La Marchigiana

Patricias Mendocinas 1550

Tel: 0261-423 0751

This Mendoza institution serves what it calls Italo-Argentine cuisine – which simply means that one half of the menu is devoted to meat and the other to pasta. Stick to the latter, which is freshly made and can be accompanied with a wide range of sauces. $$

Winery Restaurants

La Bourgogne

Bodega Vistalba

Roque Sáenz Peña 3531, Vistalba

Tel: 0261-498 9400

Frequently cited as Mendoza’s best winery restaurant since it opened in 2005, La Bourgogne combines a top-notch menu of locally sourced meat, game and fish with stunning views of the cordillera and, unsurprisingly, a pretty good wine list. $$$

Ruca Malen

RN7, Km 1059, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo

Tel: 0261-413 8909

Is this the best lunch spot in Argentina? With its short but impressive menu (including a grilled lomo dish as good as you will taste anywhere) and a backcloth of snow-capped peaks looming over desert vineyards, Ruca Malen is certainly a contender. $$$

Patagonia

San Martín de los Andes

Caleuche

Paihuen, RN234, Km 78, 26km (16 miles) from San Martín

Tel: 02972-428154

Part of the Paihuen Mountain Resort, this upmarket country restaurant serves excellent regional game and fish, plus a tempting chocolate fondue for dessert. It also has one of the most extensive wine lists in the region. $$$

La Fondue de Betty

Villegas 586

Tel: 02972-425953

No prizes for guessing what’s on the menu at this Alpine-style restaurant, which is particularly well attended during the winter ski season. Both cheese and meat fondues are served, accompanied by cured meats and smoked fish. $$

Bariloche

Abuela Goye

Mitre 258

Tel: 02944-433 861

Members of Chocoholics Anonymous need to stay clear of this incredible café and confectioners, which serves all manner of artisanal chocolates, cakes, tarts, and mousses, plus alfajores stuffed with dulce de leche, and a wide range of gelato ice-cream flavors. Good coffee, too. $

Cassis

RP82, nr Lago Gutiérrez, 15km (9 miles) from Bariloche

Tel: 02944-476 167

With its hushed, elegant dining room and its creative menu, Cassis is perfect for a special treat or a romantic supper. Choose from three set menus, with Patagonian lamb, fresh trout, and locally picked forest fruits ever present in some shape or form. $$$

El Boliche de Alberto

Villegas 347

Tel: 02944-434 564

This is one of the most famous steakhouses in the country, packed to the rafters at lunch and supper with backpackers, Argentine students, and local families. If you are in the mood for steak, fries, and salad, and do not mind waiting for a table, this is the place to be. $–$$

La Marmite

Mitre 329

Tel: 02944-423 685

This Bariloche classic serves the kind of food that is pretty good in summer and sublime in midwinter: fondues, meat casseroles, pickled trout, game when available, and sticky puddings. The service is of the kind that makes you want to return. $$

Villa La Angostura

Gran Nevada

Avenida Arrayanes 106

Tel: 02944-495 512

This lively, verging on chaotic, cantina offers a range of well-executed Argentine standards (milanesas with fries, pizzas, etc) as well local specialties like pickled trout and cured venison. Eat here if you are on a budget. $–$$

La Caballeriza

Avenida Arrayanes 44

Tel: 02944-494 248

Flawless service and high-quality meat cuts (including lamb) are the hallmarks of this sophisticated steakhouse. The empanadas are terrific, too. $$

El Bolsón

Cervecería El Bolsón

RN40, Acc Norte (just north of the town)

Tel: 02944-492 363

This is the most famous brewery in the area, elaborating real ales such as the popular Suelta (a Bohemian-style pilsner) and the somewhat less requested Ají Picante (herb and spice beer). Cured meats, cheeses, and tapas dishes are available to help mitigate the effects of these wickedly strong draughts. $$

La Casona de Odile

Barrio Luján, Ruta 30, Subida los Maitenes

Tel: 02944-492 753

This restaurant forms part of Casona de Odile lodge. The setting is beautiful and the food is delicious and fresh. Reservations are essential. $$

Otto Tipp

Islas Malvinas y Roca

Tel: 02944-493 700

When in El Bolsón, drink beer: and there are few better places to do it than at this microbrewery, which also serves tapas-style dishes and offers short tours of the premises. $$

Esquel

Casa Grande

Roca 441

Tel: 02945-452 468

This cozy spot (warmed by an open fire in winter) serves a range of delicious regional specialties, including salmon, cured venison and wild boar. $$

Trevelín

Nain Maggie

Perito Moreno 179

Tel: 02945-480 232

Opened in 1975, this is the best Welsh teahouse in Trevelín. The strong tea and heavy fruitcake is pretty much what you would expect to get in Llanfairpwllgwyngll; the dulce de leche tart, less so. $$

Puerto Madryn

Cantina El Náutico

Av. Julio A. Roca 790

Tel: 02965-471 404

This is a traditional, lively joint with good ocean views and a long menu covering both fish and meat dishes. Unless you have a particular craving for scallops in blue cheese sauce, steer clear of the fancy preparations and go for a lenguado grillé (grilled sole). $$

Plácido

Av. Julio A. Roca 506

Tel: 02965-455 991

The fish is good in Puerto Madryn but not outstandingly so, reflecting Argentines’ preference for turf over surf. This place, however, has superb views of the port and very good service. Try the abadejo (cod). $$

Puerto Pirámides

La Estación

Av. de las Ballenas s/n

Tel: 02965-495 047

This place serves pretty good pasta and shellfish dishes but what draws in the crowds (and it is usually packed) is the atmosphere: this is a great spot to meet and mingle with fellow travelers. LP covers from the 1960s decorate the walls and the staff could not be friendlier. $$

The Paradise

Av. de las Ballenas, 2nd bajada al mar

Tel: 02965-495 030

Part of the hotel of the same name, this hugely popular bar/restaurant serves classic Argentine minutas, a range of shellfish dishes, and several vegetarian options. $$

Gaiman

TyTe Caerdydd

Finca 202

Tel: 02965-491510

This sturdy-looking cottage of red brick and corrugated iron is the most famous among the several Welsh tearooms in Gaiman. It shot to prominence in 1995, when Princess Diana (still universally known in Argentina as “Lady Di”) dropped in for the classic spread of strong tea, fruitcake, scones, and home-made preserves. Her photograph still hangs on one of the walls, and the place has become a kind of shrine to her memory. A similar menu and atmosphere (plus an outstanding collection of love spoons) can be found at Plas Y Coed, which overlooks the main plaza. $$

El Calafate

Casimiro Biguá Trattoria

Av. Libertador 1359

Tel: 02902-492 993

There are tons of rustic-style places serving barbecued lamb in El Calafate, so Casimiro, with its modern decor and long pizza and pasta menu, is a pleasant departure from the norm. Parents with young kids will love the staffed play area in the back. $$

La Posta

Posada Los Alamos, Gdor Moyano and Bustillo

Tel: 02902-491 144

At this exceptional restaurant, whole lamb carcasses are crucified on poles and oh-so-slowly roasted over hot embers – all in full view. Those of less carnivorous disposition will enjoy the home-made stuffed pastas or the trout options. Desserts are first-class, as is the service. $$$

La Tablita

Cnel. Rosales 28

Tel: 02902-491 065

Not the place for a romantic tête-à-tête or a quiet supper, La Tablita is a boisterous steakhouse offering great cuts of meat (the lamb is recommended), old-school waiters, and terrible acoustics. Expect to wait for half an hour at peak times. $–$$

El Chaltén

Cervecería Artesenal

Avenida San Martín 564

Tel: 02902-493 109

This cozy pub/restaurant is every trekker’s dream – a microbrewery in the mountains. A tall glass of bock (stout) will help unstiffen limbs post-hike, while the picada (smoked meat and cheese platter) that comes with it will address that calorie deficit. $

Tierra Del Fuego

Ushuaia

El Turco

San Martín 1440

Tel: 02901-424 711

Locals pour into this place in the evening for its excellent food, including pizza, pasta, and meat and fish dishes, and friendly atmosphere. The best value for money in town. $

Kaupé

Roca 470

Tel: 02901-422 704

Restaurants in Ushuaia tend to be roisterous, ad hoc affairs, while Kaupé is hushed and refined. The menu looks similar to all the others in town, with centolla (king crab) and merluza negra (Patagonian toothfish) to the fore; but the presentation is more sophisticated here, and the wine list is a knock-out. $$$

Kuar

Avenida Perito Moreno 2232

Tel: (02901) 437 396

This handsome bar/restaurant, styled like a mountain lodge, has big windows looking out over the Beagle Channel. The tapas-style menu is complemented by a good range of beers, wines, and imported spirits. The open fire in winter makes it popular with the ski set. $$

Volver

Avenida Maipú 37

Tel: 02901-424 725

Pioneering a decor style that could only be called nautical kitsch – fishnets, tridents, mermaids, and, the pièce de résistance, a life-size mannequin of Che Guevara wearing a sou’wester – this popular seafront joint nonetheless does great king crab and various other fish dishes. $$–$$$

Tolhuin

Restaurant Selknam

Hostería Kaiken, Cabecera Lago Fagnano, RN3

Tel: 02901-492 372

This spartan but appealing restaurant serves big portions of cordero patagónico (Patagonian lamb) hacked straight off the carcass. There are splendid views of Lago Fagnano to consider while you munch. $$