THE ART OF THE TABLE

Often overlooked is the care and thought that traditionally go into the place settings at a Chinese table. Dining in China is, as we have seen, a cornerstone of social interaction, whether with extended family, friends or guests. As a social occasion, the presentation of not just food but the settings are steeped in tradition and assume a particular importance. The traditional Chinese table decoration is meant to create a complex yet appealing balance of colors, patterns and textured objects, typically set against dark, solid wooden furniture. At the dinner table, the colors red, gold and green would represent happiness, health and family, and common decor items include ivory figures, porcelain vases, lacquered wood and potted bamboo. The curved lines, glossy surfaces, carved details and careful craftsmanship of Chinese furniture add an imaginative touch to a variety of decorating schemes. But of course, as in so much else in contemporary Chinese society, there is change, and one of the most notable is the incorporation of Western idioms. Imported wine, for example, is increasingly common in the context of a Chinese meal, and provision has to be made for this. Moreover, meals in many homes are beginning to feature fusion cooking, reflected in an intriguing design mixture in the settings.

A combination Chinese and provincial French place setting in the home of Jehanne de Biolley and Harrison Liu.

The dining table in one of gallery owner Pearl Lam’s apartments, decorated by Cyril Gonzalez with frog-and-feather brooches and jade chopsticks.

A plain white service makes a simple contrast to the rich colors and ‘cracked-ice’ openwork wall decoration in the dining room of a converted Beijing hutong.

Detail of the place settings in the dining room shown on page 54 top right. A notable feature is the use of antique marble yupang as underplates on the natural wood surface of the table.

A table decoration by Cyril Gonzalez in the form of silver bead strands with metal pendants, inspired by Chinese bi (circular jade artefacts).

An innovative coffee table made from a polished aluminium aircraft wing.