Ngorongoro Crater
African elephants live longer than sixty years. Like humans, older elephants have dental problems. Elephants start life with as many as six sets of teeth. As each set wears down over years of eating, the next one slides in to replace it. Eventually, though, the last molars grind down to the gums. When that happens, the elephant must find softer food. They have no choice but to change their diets. Marshes have an abundance of soft plants, and this is where old elephants often spend their last years.
Tanzania’s Ngorongoro Crater shelters Ngoitokitok Spring, which creates a perpetual marsh. This is the perfect environment for old tuskers, and they come here to finish their days. Tusks of the oldest males can be enormous, almost ten feet long. This elephant retirement home (and burial ground) is also one of the best picnic locations in the Crater. We enjoyed a memorable breakfast at Ngoitokitok Spring. Then our guide pulled out a ball, and he and our kids played soccer on the crater floor as zebras ran in the distance.
After the game was over, he told us the most interesting thing he had ever seen at the spring.
The Guide’s Story
“Not far from here, there was a bull elephant lying on its side. I thought he was dead but wanted to make sure. I kept my guests at a safe distance and walked over to investigate. First, I touched its back. There was no response.
“Then I kicked one of its legs. Still no movement. As a last measure, I knelt down by its mouth to check for breathing. All was quiet.
“Now that I was confident that the elephant was dead, I called everyone over and allowed them to feel the skin and lift up its heavy trunk.
“Everyone was gathered around the elephant when suddenly its gut moved and a guttural sound came from inside its mouth.
“I was terrified and yelled, ‘Get away!’
“I was sure the elephant was alive and about to get up and charge us.
“Before we could run, though, a blood-soaked hyena emerged from the elephant’s posterior. The hyena saw the crowd of onlookers, panicked, and then bolted right through their midst.
“Even I screamed as it ran by me. In an instant, the hyena was gone. Then we all laughed about it.
“That was the last time I ever approached a dead animal on foot.”