BASIC TECHNIQUES

AGEING

YOU WILL NEED:

  1. Make a fire with the charcoal, firelighters and matches. Place the metal objects directly over the flames or coals, one by one (objects lose their shape if they lie on top of each other) (A). Leave until all paint coatings have burned away. (Note: galvanised paint takes longer than others.)

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  2. Wearing oven gloves, use tongs to remove the objects from the fire. Take care not to drop them or place them on top of one another as they will easily distort while hot (B).

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  3. When all the objects are cold, wash them thoroughly under running water to remove any traces of ash (C).

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  4. Dry the objects with an old cloth; they are now ready for decorating.
  5. Follow the manufacturer’s instruction when using rust activator.

CANDLEMAKING – MAKING NEW ONES FROM OLD

YOU WILL NEED:

  1. Break the wax into smaller pieces, then heat them in an old pot until melted (A). Remove old wicks and any debris with a small sieve. Return the pot to the heat source. Place a thermometer in the pot and measure the heat of the wax; it must not exceed 80 °C.

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  2. Pour a drop of the liquid wax into the centre of your mould or container, then press a pre-waxed wick onto the soft wax drop. Wait for it to cool and solidify. Place the stick over the opening of the tin and twist the end of the wick around the stick to keep it in an upright position (B).

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  3. If the wax in your pot begins to solidify, reheat it to liquid state. Pour the liquid wax slowly into the mould, layer by layer. Wait for each layer to dry before you pour another one (C).

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  4. Repeat this process until you have a smooth surface.
  5. The new candle is ready for decorating.

CRACKLE GLAZING

YOU WILL NEED:
  1. Ensure that the surface of the object to be crackled is dry and clean.
  2. Use a paintbrush to apply an even, thin layer of base coat to the object’s surface. It should be dry after about 30 minutes.
  3. Paint the top coat over the base coat. This layer must be thick and smooth. Make sure you cover the entire surface.
  4. Leave to dry overnight. Cracks will appear on the surface (A).

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  5. Rub a small amount of artist’s oil paint into the cracks, using a soft cloth (B). (Use a darker colour oil paint than the background of the object. This will give it a natural aged effect.)

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  6. Once the cracks have been coloured, gently rub the excess paint from the surface with a damp turpentine cloth (C).

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  7. Leave to dry for at least 24 hours before you apply any varnish (D).

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  8. Apply four layers of water-based varnish or one layer of Kraftex Pratliglo.

DECOUPAGE

YOU WILL NEED:
  1. Make sure that the surface of the object to be decoupaged is clean, smooth and dry. Seal any porous surfaces with matt emulsion paint.
  2. Before you cut out an image, coat it with sealant, then leave to dry (A).

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  3. Cut around the edge of the image with scissors (B). For intricate patterns you may prefer to use a craft knife and cutting mat.

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  4. Decide how you want to arrange the images on the object. Pictures can be in any design and can overlap each other.
  5. When you are satisfied with your layout, paint some sealant onto the reverse side of your first image. Place it in position, press down gently and rub over it with your fingers or a damp sponge to smooth away any air bubbles and excess glue. Repeat this process with each image (C). When you have glued all your images onto the surface of the object, paint two coats of sealant over the surface for protection. Allow the first one to dry before you apply the second coat.

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  6. The beauty of decoupage is that if you do not like your layout you can re-do it before applying the final layer of varnish. To do this, just soak off the water-based sealant and image by submerging the object in water. Ensure that the object’s surface is properly dry before you start again.
  7. When you are ready, apply the final layer of varnish. This protects the object and your decorative work from heat and water (D).

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GILDING

YOU WILL NEED:

  1. Prepare the item you want to gild. If you do the gilding on raw wood, it is advisable to fill in the grain and sand the surface to make sure it is perfectly smooth, otherwise any defects will show. Use a sponge brush to paint the wood with a universal undercoat and top coat paint. Choose a dark paint colour (brown, black or red) for gold or bronze leaf, and a light-coloured paint (white or yellow) for silver leaf. If you gild directly onto glass, clean the surface with a little vinegar added to lukewarm water; it needs to be grease and dust free.
  2. Make sure the item is completely dry. Using a sponge brush, apply a thin coat of size evenly with strokes across the entire surface to be gilded.
  3. Allow the size to dry completely (refer to the manufacturer’s instructions on the container). It is important not to touch the size as it will mark. The best way to check the state of the size is to use the hair on the back of your hand: if you feel a slight pull, the size is ready.
  4. Before working with metal leaf, ensure that your work area is draft free. It is important to wear cotton gloves when handling the leaf. Pick up a sheet of leaf along the tissue border (between the metal leaves there are tissue leaves), then position the foil against the size surface (A) and pass your fingers very gently and slowly over the back of the tissue (B). Metal leaf is extremely fragile. Repeat the process until the size area is completely covered. Cut smaller pieces of leaf for smaller areas and to fill any gaps.

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  5. Small creases will appear. Don’t worry; brush the creases away with a paintbrush (C).

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  6. To achieve a bright surface, dab your foil-covered object lightly with a small piece of velvet fabric (D).

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  7. Seal the gilt with varnish to prevent it from tarnishing.

PAPIER-MÂCHÉ

YOU WILL NEED:

  1. Protect your working surface with plastic or an oil cloth (easy to clean). Wear an apron to protect your clothes.
  2. Tear the paper (don’t cut it) for a better seam: 5 × 5 cm-wide strips for larger objects and 2 × 2 cm-wide strips for smaller objects (A). (This is just a guide; you can use different measurements.)

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  3. Almost any object can be used as a mould for papier-mâché (round objects are easier to cover). Coat the surface of your mould with a layer of petroleum jelly to create a barrier (B), or use clingfilm. This will prevent the papier-mâché from sticking to the mould and allow it to be removed easily when dry.

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  4. Paint glue onto both sides of the paper strips with a paintbrush or simply dip the paper in the glue. Remove any excess glue with your fingers.
  5. Position the strips individually on the greased mould from one side of the mould to the other, until the entire mould is covered (C). It is important to remove any air bubbles and excess glue. Do this by gently pressing the glue paper against the surface of your object, always moving from the middle outwards. Repeat the process six to eight times.

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  6. Leave to dry (this will take six to eight hours). Tap the object to check whether it is properly dry; it should sound hollow.
  7. Trim away the raw edges around the mould, using a pair of scissors or a craft knife (D).

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  8. Use a blunt knife to pry the paper gently away from the mould.
  9. The mould is now ready to decorate.