The picture we have today of the sixteenth century centres around the Tudor court. Many of us are familiar with the magnificent portraits of powerful courtiers in their court clothes which can be found in museums and famous stately homes like Hardwick Hall. The images of Henry VIII clothed in cloth of gold, or of Elizabeth I with jewels covering her gown are powerful ones, and hard to shake off. The courtiers were the multi-millionaires of their day, however, and their lives were as different from the lives of ordinary Tudors as the lives of the modern superrich are to most of us today.
Clothes demonstrate the difference very effectively. The costumes worn by the courtiers for their portraits were to the Tudors what designer original clothes are to us, that is, garments which very few of us will ever try on, let alone own and wear on a regular basis. The materials that went into them cost several times what many people earned in a year. Queen Mary, for example, owned one gown which cost £36 in 15571 and this was not the finest she owned. This was a huge sum at the time. Just how huge will become obvious when you consider that in 1544 the merchant John Johnson paid £8 a year to rent Glapthorn Manor in Nottinghamshire, which included both farm land and the pleasant manor house where the Johnson family lived.2
Queen Mary’s dress was made of velvet. The vast majority of the population wore wool. English wool could be of beautiful quality, and the wealthiest would wear sometimes the finest grades. The fine-quality worsted produced in Norfolk in the fifteenth century is even compared to silk by the Pastons in their letters.3 However, ordinary people could only aspire to the rougher grades which were not only cheaper to buy, but lasted longer. Working clothes did follow fashion as much as possible, but the excesses of the wealthy were just not practical. Trains, frilled cuffs, large sleeves and other ornaments were impossible for most Tudors.
Just as the clothes of the wealthy and the poor were very different, so living conditions varied a great deal between classes. Houses were still quite basic for most people. Sixteenth-century cottages today usually come complete with indoor plumbing and central heating and are considered very desirable places to own. In their original condition no modern person would want to live there. Most houses were timber-framed, with the walls filled in with wattle and daub which played host to all sorts of insects. The houses were often thatched, although the use of slates was encouraged in towns to try to reduce the risk of fire. Most houses still had earth floors, which of course were very difficult to keep clean. Window glass was still a luxury so most houses just had shutters over the windows. There was also very little privacy: it was quite usual to share your bed with several other members of the household. In towns the houses often did not even have a toilet, but rather several households would share a communal one at the end of the street.
It was only for those higher up in society that living was becoming more comfortable. In wealthier circles there was an increasing concern for privacy and houses were built with a number of small rooms, rather than a small number of communal ones as was the case in the Middle Ages. Wooden panelling made the rooms warmer, but it probably would not be lovingly polished, as Tudor panelling usually is today, but painted in very bright colours. This was an expensive luxury and those who could afford it lived surrounded by colour that we might find rather gaudy today. The Wolsey Closet and the chapel ceiling at Hampton Court Palace are examples of the amount of decoration and colour favoured by the rich.
If you had money, you flaunted it. The Tudors would have been very at home in modern-day Hollywood, as they too believed in aiming to have all that was newest and most expensive surrounding them. The rich hung their walls with tapestries, again made in the bright colours they loved so much. Henry VIII paid £1,500 for one set of ten tapestries, and they were not even the finest set he owned.4 This was at a time when a skilled worker like a shipwright earned about £12 a year, and a man with an income of £50 was a gentleman. Even in his garden a Tudor gentleman did not choose to commune with nature so much as to subdue it well and truly with topiaries, statues and elaborate designs of one kind or another bordered with little hedges. What better place to show off his wealth to his visitors?
The houses, though, only tell us so much about the Tudors. To understand the way they thought, some kind of overview of Tudor society is necessary. It is impossible to know for sure how many people lived in England at the time. Governments were not interested in statistics in the way that they are today and such information as survives is taken from church records (which are often incomplete) and surveys done with taxation or military service in mind (which of course did not include anyone not liable for either, such as young children). Estimates suggest that there were only just under three million people living in England at the beginning of the century, rising to just over three million at the end.5 The population was very unevenly distributed, with about sixty thousand people living in the square mile of the city of London, let alone in the suburbs which were growing up around it even at that time.6
The main industry was still agriculture, and even people who had some other trade, such as weaving cloth, also had a smallholding which provided much of their food. Those at the very bottom, the landless labourers, were particularly badly off as not only did they receive very low wages, around £2 a year, but they also had no way of supplementing their income by growing their own food.
Despite the amount of food which was home grown everyone was by no means self-sufficient. Other things had to be bought in. Even items that were made at home were not necessarily made in sufficient quantity to avoid having to buy from outside as well. People did make a certain amount of their own cloth, both wool and linen, but few people would cover all their family’s needs. Cloth manufacture was, after all, a large-scale industry, and there was a healthy market not only for the high-quality materials worn by the wealthy, but also for the humbler ones that most people wore, which would hardly have been the case if everyone had been self-sufficient. Other items were also bought in. Increasing amounts of pottery were appearing on Tudor tables, although wooden plates and bowls were still very much in use. Knives, which every Tudor would have carried, were also unlikely to be home made.
Higher up the social ladder there was a large demand not just for items produced outside the home, but also for imported goods. Silks and velvets (which were made with silk thread at the time), sugar, citrus fruits, wine, glassware and best-quality armour were all imported luxuries which every wealthy family wanted to own. The wealthy were certainly not self-sufficient and did not aspire to be.
Looking back on the sixteenth century it is also easy to imagine it as a time of security when families lived in the same villages for generations and even in towns people would know everyone in their street. In fact large numbers of people moved around the country looking for work. Names come and go from parish records with surprising frequency7 and it was very common for children from as far away as Yorkshire to be sent to London for their apprenticeships.8 Tudor London was such an unhealthy place to live in that it was only the constant stream of people arriving looking for work that caused it to grow so fast.9,10 Even in the countryside people moved around. At Terling in Essex between 1580 and 1619, of all the men and women who married and produced at least one child, less than one-fifth of the men and only about a third of the women had been born in the parish.11
There were also people who lived by travelling, such as carters transporting goods, especially wool, and those who drove cattle long distances to market. Even some skilled workers, such as shipwrights, lived by moving around from job to job, depending where the work happened to be at the time. Society was far more mobile than you may imagine.
Death was also constantly in the minds of the people of the time, so much so that there was a fashion for paintings, jewellery and a whole host of other items decorated with skulls as a reminder that anyone could be struck down at any time. The infant mortality rates in particular are horrifying.12 In modern-day Britain we expect to raise all the children we have to adulthood, but this is a luxury unknown to previous ages. It is impossible to give exact statistics as accurate records were not always kept, and, even if they were, have not always survived complete. There is a high probability too that many children who died in the first few weeks of life went totally unrecorded. From existing records it seems that about a fifth of the children born in Elizabethan England did not reach their tenth birthday.13
Life was not certain at any age. Plague was never far away, or small pox, which often left its victims badly disfigured even if they survived. One disease, the ‘sweat’, which visited England several times in the sixteenth century seemed to be particularly fatal to the young adults, who should have been best placed to resist disease. The two sons of Catherine Willoughby, Duchess of Suffolk,14 died from it when they were in their teens. Otwell Johnson, a young man who was a merchant of the staple, whose letters form part of a collection which reveal a great deal about Tudor life was also a victim.15 The disease was particularly frightening as it struck and killed within twenty-four hours. Life was anything but secure.
The way society was organized was very different from today. There was no professional police force, and hardly any standing army apart from the king’s personal bodyguard, which only consisted of about two hundred men at the most. Order was maintained through strict observance of the social hierarchy. The Tudors saw the world as a vast hierarchy where everyone, and everything, had its place.
Today we are brought up to question everything, to think for ourselves and to consider ourselves as equal to anyone. Tudor children were brought up above all things to show respect, to speak when they were spoken to and accept what they were told by their elders and betters. A Tudor child would refer to its parents as ‘Sir’ and ‘Madam’ and would stand up when they came into a room. They would treat anyone in authority, such as the master and mistress they worked for as apprentices, in the same way. The result was that they grew up with a view of the world that was very different to our modern one.
This idea of authority even existed in the academic world, where those who challenged views laid down by ancient authorities were frowned on. Medical thought was, for example, still dominated by the works of Galen and Avicenna who had lived hundreds of years before.16 Those who challenged their views sometimes even found themselves forced to recant publicly. By the end of the century things did begin to change. The old views were being challenged too loudly and too often for them to continue to be accepted without question. It was no longer enough just to read and accept ancient knowledge. This spirit of enquiry laid the foundations for the scientific developments of the seventeenth century, but it had been a long hard struggle to awaken it.
You would be reminded of your place in the hierarchy at every opportunity. For one thing, you would be seated at meal times in a certain place according to your position. The etiquette books of the time go into great detail as to precedence in these matters. If you were responsible for the seating arrangements you needed to get it right or you might seriously offend someone. John Russell’s Book of Nurture, a book written around 1460 for the instruction of children, goes into great detail as to seating arrangements, giving instructions for placing everyone from the Pope right down to a lady of low degree who has married above herself. Of course, very few people were going to cope with such a wide range of guests, and nobody in England entertained the Pope, but the idea was that children taught from Russell’s book would learn how the social hierarchy worked.17
It was important to know who was above you and who was beneath you, and to behave with great respect towards great men. The aristocracy in particular had enormous power and their favour could make your career, or their dislike ruin it. It was for this reason that education centred on how to make yourself pleasing to your betters, whether by working hard or, at the top of society, by being able to take part in witty conversations and elegant pastimes such as formal debates. The idea of Renaissance man, the all-rounder who could hold his own in intellectual circles, take part in sport, show skill on the battlefield and still be able to dance, sing and play musical instruments, was not an ideal dreamt up by scholars. Such all-rounders would have been best-placed to win the attention and regard of those who mattered. Doubtless few people lived up to the ideal, but aiming at it was the way towards success.
As the Tudors saw that prosperity lay in serving those above you there was no disgrace in being a servant. Wealthy people often had very well-bred personal servants who might even be their relatives. Attending a great gentleman or lady was considered a very good way of learning how to move in the highest society and was often part of your education. This is why the Lisle daughters were sent away to live with a French gentlewoman.18 Even lower down the scale service could be a good preparation for marriage19 and a secure way of earning a living.
Even servants who were not gently bred were not looked down on. Although they would be expected to show respect to their master and mistress, they would not be considered second-class as they would have been in the eighteenth or the nineteenth century. You did not keep your servants hidden away in a separate part of your house. Your personal servants, whether relatives or not, had to be within calling distance at all times, so that you could summon them whenever required. They even slept in your room at night. Other servants could also be held in high regard. Otwell Johnson even held one of his apprentices, Henry Johnson (no relation of Otwell’s), in his arms as he lay dying, even though it was suspected that he was suffering from plague.20 Even Pepys, writing in the late seventeenth century, considered his servants as part of his family.21
All this sounds as though society was reassuringly stable in the sixteenth century but the theory of how society was organized didn’t work out in practice quite how it was supposed to. For one thing, at any time in any society, there are always families who are on their way up in the world and others who are on the way down. Society was also becoming a lot more fluid. In the Middle Ages, for example in the thirteenth century, it was very difficult for anyone not born to wealth to achieve it for themselves. The Church did provide an outlet for an able young man to rise to the top, but that was really the only way for those who were talented but not well connected. By the sixteenth century it was possible to rise in the secular world, by trade or by a profession such as the law, so that new families, as well as individuals, came to prominence. The ‘new men’ of the Tudor age, such as Thomas Cromwell, even got into the highest circles surrounding the king.
Politics had also changed since the Middle Ages. Even as late as the fifteenth century kings had had to deal with enormously powerful barons. The exploits of Warwick the Kingmaker, who was literally able to influence the fate of kings, demonstrates this very well. Kingship involved a careful balancing act between demonstrating your own authority and not upsetting the barons too much.
By the sixteenth century this had all changed. Power was centralized in the hands of the monarch to such an extent that even at times of crisis, such as the accession of the young king Edward VI, such plotting and jostling for power as occurred was all centred around the court, rather than in the private castles of particular barons as had been the case in earlier times.22
The Tudor kings had power firmly centred in their hands. Government departments took over the day-to-day running of affairs, as there was too much business for the monarch to cope with alone. This meant that more educated men were needed to staff these departments, which in turn not only gave new opportunities to such men, but also stimulated more people to become educated.
The increasing bureaucracy meant more business for the lawyers, so that many Tudor fortunes were made that way. There was no land registry at the time, and most people who owned a significant amount of land found themselves involved in lawsuits of one kind or another with people who also felt they had a claim to their land. Legal training increasingly became part of a normal education for anyone who was heir to land. Education was becoming more and more of a necessity for the better off citizens. The middle classes were also becoming richer, better educated and more confident. Trade was expanding; the London merchants in particular were thriving and their children might well be educated for a profession such as the law. In this new atmosphere of self-confident enquiry it was inevitable that the religious views of the time should change.
In the Middle Ages most people were expected to take the religious opinions of their priest. By the end of the fifteenth century people throughout Europe were wanting to study the Bible for themselves, to form their own opinions. There were also cries against the corruption of the established Church, and against many of the accepted practices of the day, most famously from Martin Luther.23 By the end of the century Catholics and Protestants alike were being encouraged to study devotional works for themselves. Richard Smith, biographer of Lady Magdalene Montague, a recusant of Elizabeth’s reign, takes great pains to stress Lady Montague’s hours of private study as well as her devotion to the Mass.24
The new interest in education was both symptom and cause of the printing press. This had come to England at the end of the fifteenth century and by the mid-sixteenth century a wide range of books was being published. Books were still fairly expensive, beyond the reach of ordinary people, but were nevertheless very much cheaper than the hand-written books of the Middle Ages. Reading was becoming a habit for both men and women of the middle class.
Family relationships were slowly beginning to change. It is very easy to misunderstand how the Tudors felt about their children. The fact that relations between parents and children were considerably more formal than today does not mean that there was not affection between them. Neither is it true that parents did not become fond of their children in case they died; there are many examples of Tudor men and women taking great pleasure in their children and being grief-stricken when they died. It was rather that they cultivated the Christian virtue of resignation, that is, of accepting God’s will, however hard. This is a long way from not caring in the first place.25
Tudor children were expected to show a great deal of respect but there was an increasing trend to respect their feelings in the major decisions affecting them. This is particularly true in the area of marriage. Even amongst the aristocracy child marriages were dying out. Marriage remained very much a business matter to be arranged by the child’s parents, but books of the time emphasize increasingly that a successful marriage had to be based on the willing consent, if not necessarily mutual affection, of the parties involved.
Despite the social change taking place, the daily round must have remained much the same for most ordinary people throughout the century. Hours of work were long, at least in the summer. An act of 1563 fixed the hours of summer work (mid-March to mid-September) from five in the morning to either seven or eight in the evening, with not more than two and a half hours for breaks.26 In winter the hours were from dawn to sunset, as it was simply not practical to work by artificial light. The best-quality light was that from wax candles which were far too expensive for most people to use on a regular basis, if at all. Even lower-quality lights, rushlights made from tallow, had to be used with care.
For all the building of fine houses and the flowering of the arts that the Tudor period witnessed, it was a hard time for those at the bottom of society. The problem of what exactly to do about the increasing number of people who wandered about in search of work was one which troubled the Elizabethans in particular. The parishes were supposed to organize poor relief for those who were having difficulty so they were very unwilling to have any vagrants in the area unless they were gainfully employed. The result was that poor people were hustled out of the parish as often as they were helped.
Life was not easy for either men or women, but the women were often in a particularly difficult situation. A single woman was more or less a piece of her father’s property; a married woman belonged to her husband in the same way, her possessions also automatically belonging to her husband. Widows were the only independent Tudor women. A woman was also at a disadvantage as it was much harder for her to earn an independent living than it was for a man. By no means all women married, but a woman who was single had far fewer options regarding apprenticeship and employment than a man did.27 There were also fewer educational opportunities, so that women could not attend the universities or Inns of Court and therefore could not enter a profession. This gives the impression that the women of the time, barred from most education and many jobs, were ignorant and incapable. It is far from the truth. Several noble women of the time, such as Thomas More’s daughters and the Cooke sisters were very well educated by tutors at home. Even women who were not academically educated were given sound practical tuition in the skills they would need to run their houses and, for the wealthy, their estates. Accounts, medical skills, cookery as well as the practical skills needed to help run a business were all taught to girls at the time.
The idea that wealthy ladies should be brought up to do nothing did not come into fashion until the eighteenth century. In the sixteenth century the feeling was that the devil found work for idle hands to do, whatever class the owner of the hands came from. Educational books for ladies are full of the need to banish idleness. The title page of the popular needlework pattern book The Needle’s Excellency, reproduced in Chapter Three, is an example of the encouragement to useful work. Few women must have needed to be told to work. They had so much to do that they must have had little time to do anything else. Even wealthy women were very much practical, working housewives. They may have had servants, but these were people whom they worked alongside, rather than just gave orders to as the grand ladies of later centuries did.
The incredible range of practical skills demonstrated by the women of the time tends to go unacknowledged even today. The problem is that the sixteenth century was a man’s world, and women left few records of what they did and thought. Even the household manuals of the time were written by men, such as Gervase Markham and Thomas Tusser.28 Men were not taught ‘housewifery’ and so it was not publicly esteemed in the way that, for example, knowledge of the law was. The women’s skills may or may not have been appreciated, but they were still expected to be able to cope with a wide range of problems. Their knowledge is even more impressive when it becomes obvious how much skill was involved in jobs which are incredibly simple today. The weekly wash could not only take two or three days to complete, but a woman would need to know how to treat various different stains, and possibly even have to make her own soap. She would not only deal with family medical problems, but would also have to make her own medicines. If she was wealthy, her husband could be away on business more often than he was home, leaving her to cope with the business affairs of the estates as well as the running of the household.
This book is only an overview of the lives of Tudor women. The subjects covered in each chapter could easily each be the subject of an entire book if not of a whole lifetime’s study. The aim is to give a feeling of what life was like at the time for ordinary women, as well as the rich and famous women with whom many of us are already familiar. Perhaps it will also give a new appreciation of the incredible range of skills expected of women at the time.