INDEX

à la minute, 191, 192

abalone, 82, 175

Abbinante, Frank, 76

Abella, Irving, 141

Abie’s Smoked Meat, 23, 141, 143, 144, 153155, 157

Achatz, Grant, 178

Adrià, Ferran, 120

AGA cooker, 25, 8, 2223, 62, 89

Alaskan black cod, 63, 64

albacore tuna, 6263

Alba-sourced truffles, 95

Albion Fisheries, 6869

Alépée, Bertrand, 185

Alexander, Steve, 98, 131

Alice B. Toklas Cookbook, The, 18

Alinea (restaurant), 178

Allan, Kate, 1516

Allan, Ted, 15

all-tasting menu, 203

almond and mascarpone cake, 181

Alsatian cuisine, xixii, 41, 43, 106, 109

Alto Beni, 187

American Heart Association, 6

Angus beef, 136

anti–foie gras movement, xxi

apple jelly, 74, 82

Apprenticeship of Duddy Kravitz, The (film), 1

arame (seaweed), 175

Araxi (restaurant), 68

Art of Charcuterie, The (Grigson), 18

Art Shoppe, The (Toronto), 141

Ashkenazi Jews, 140

asparagus, 106107

Atlantic cod, 64

Atlantic salmon, 62

Au Pied de Cochon (restaurant), 44

Auberge Hatley, 174

Auberge Sainte-Antoine, 114115

Aubergine (restaurant), 89, 109

Aubin, Alexandre, 135

Aux Anciens Canadiens (restaurant), 117

Aux Armes de France (restaurant), 108

Avalon (restaurant), 175 Axelrod, George, 16

Azienda Agricola Poggio Stenti (Pieri estate), 25, 27

Bagel Factory. See Maison du Bagel Saint-Viateur

bagels, 150

Baguazhang (martial art), 161

Bar Buca, 27

Barker, Ronnie, 14

Barney’s Version (Richler), 152

Barth Sirocco roaster (cacao beans), 186

Batali, Mario, 73

Beach House (restaurant), 76

Beck, Simone, 18

begonia petals, 72

Ben’s Delicatessen, 140

Bennett, Avie, 142

Benoît, Jehane, 16

Bent (restaurant), 211

Bent, Brenda, 169

Bentall 5 (restaurant), 204, 205, 208

Berkshire pigs, 28, 45

Bernardaud porcelain, 128

Bernier, Gilbert, 136

Bérubé, Marc, 136

Bestellen (restaurant), 215

Biff’s (restaurant), 38

Bifthèque MainDeli. See The Main

Bigourdan, Yannick, 93, 96, 98, 176177

Billoux, Jean-Marie, 133

Biologiques de Charlevoix, 23

birds, pre-migratory feasting, xii

Bishop’s (restaurant), 172

bison, 28, 36, 215

Bistro and Bakery Thuet, ix, xii, 10, 11, 40, 103, 112, 115116, 186, 211

Bistro Pastis, 67

Bite Me (restaurant), 211

Bittman, Mark, xv

black cod, 69

Black Hoof, The (restaurant), 216, 217, 219

Blais, François, 115116

Blakely, John, 67

Blanc, Raymond, 76, 77, 7879

blenders, 1617

blind tasting menus, 175

blood sausage. See boudin noir

Blouin, Jean, 136137

blue crab, 69

Blue Water Café, 57, 6061, 62, 65, 68

bluefin tuna, 62

Blumenthal, Heston, 209

Bocuse, Paul, 89, 120, 191, 202

Bonko (dog), x, xiii, xiv

boudin blanc, 43

boudin noir, 4344

boudin tart, 45, 46

Boulud, Daniel, 58, 135, 195, 203, 220221

boutique hotels, 115

Bovetti chocolate, 137

Boyd, Damien, 156

Brasserie Blanc chain, 9

Brasserie Le Nord, 132133

Brasserie Lipp, 4041

Brasserie T!, 211

Brillat-Savarin, 163

British cookery, traditional, 12, 109

British heritage breeds (pigs), 31

British royal family, cooking for, 101

Brouillard, François, 134

Brown Derby (deli), 145

Buca Osteria & Enoteca, 24, 2636

Buddha Jumps Over the Wall, 82

Budman, Michael, 141

Bürgin, Ralph, 109

Bymark (restaurant), 26, 37, 88, 89, 214, 215

Caballo, Michael, 177178

cacao beans, 185187

cacao butter, 187

Cactus Club Café chain, 179, 200, 203, 204208

Café Boulud, 220

Café de la Paix, 132

Café Konditorei Haas, 192, 194

calf’s brains, 175

Campbell, Ryan, 29, 3233, 34

Can Fabes (restaurant), 117, 197

“Canadian bacon,” 139

Canadian cuisine, defining, 116117

Canadian Food Inspection Agency, 92

Canadian Jewish Congress, 141

Cancales (oysters), 122123

cane sugar, organic, 187

Canoe (restaurant), 175, 184

caribou, 116

Carrier, Robert, 18

Castellan, David, 184187

Cava (restaurant), 39

caviar, 57, 5859, 65, 136, 163

celebrity cookbook, 12, 14

Centro Grill & Wine Bar, ix, 110, 111, 112, 184

cerf de Boileau, 134

Chaîne des Rotisseurs (gastronomic association), 128

Chantecler (restaurant, Hotel Negresco), 67

Charcut Roast House, 215

charcuterie, 2447

charcuterie boards, 3637, 45

Charcuterie Hébraïque de Montréal. See

Schwartz’s Delicatessen

Charpop, 216219

Chartwell restaurant, 67

Château Laurier, 118

Chatham cod, 61

Chavot, Éric, 8182, 83

cheeses, 136

Chef of the Century designation, 89

chef’s hat, 6

Chenoy Boys (deli), 140

Chez Panisse, 67, 216

Chez Planes, 126

Chibois, Jacques, 67

Chinese New Year, 160, 166

Chinois by Susur Lee (restaurant), 179

chinook salmon, 56, 69, 97

chocolate, 181187

Chocolate Sparkle cookie, 181, 188

Choquette, Marc-André, 173

Choucroute garnie, 4043

Church Hill farm (Punkeydoodles Corners, ON), 31, 95

CinCin (restaurant), 68

Citrus (restaurant), 133

clams, 61

Clause, Jean-Pierre, xi

Clift (hotel), 115

Clio (restaurant), 63

Club Chinois (restaurant), 169

Cocoonclub, 163

cod, 45, 61, 62, 63, 64, 69, 121, 215 coho salmon, 69

Collins, Joan, 14

con cicorilli pizza, 32

conching (chocolate production), 183, 185, 186187

Concise Encyclopaedia of Gastronomy (Simon), 102

Concordia University (Montreal), 2

Confiserie Endle, 194

Connaught Rooms, 75

Connery, Sean, 14

Conviction (restaurant), 211

Cookery (magazine), 102

coppa, 30, 36

cotenna (pig skin), 29

Country Squire (restaurant), 85

Covey, Marilou, 167

Cowan, Terry, 52

crab, 45, 62, 69, 134, 136, 164

crème caramel, 191

Crête, Charles-Antoine, 130131

cuisine de produits, 135137

cuisine de terroir, 135, 137

Cuisine Minceur (Guérard), 7

cuisine naturelle, 109

Cuisine of Frédy Girardet (Girardet), 7

culatello (ham), 32, 36

culinary books, xi, 518, 76, 120

Cumbrae’s (meats), 98, 131, 157

Cured Herring Tartare with Apple, Onion, and Coriander, 66

Curnonsky, 18

D’Artagnan factory (NY), 38

Daigneault, Pierre-André, 134

Dalloyau (pâtisserie), 190

dashi broth, 130

David, Elizabeth, 18

daylily buds, 134

db Bistro Moderne, 135, 220

de Champlain, Samuel, 114

deer, 100, 101, 112, 113, 116

DeSousa, Connie, 215219

Diamond, Hy, 153, 155

Distillery District. See Toronto Distillery District

Diva at the Met (restaurant), 196

dog treats, ixx, xiii, xiv

Donovan House (hotel), 179

Dorchester Hotel (London), 101, 102, 109110, 171

Dubrulle Culinary Institute, 202

Ducasse, Alain, 182, 199, 208, 209

duck, x, xixii, xiv, xvxvi, 11, 16, 21, 23, 28, 43, 72, 8182, 83, 97, 98, 99, 101, 115, 136, 164, 173, 197, 205

Dufflet outlets, 190

Dungeness crab, 62

East coast fisheries, 62

Easy & The Fifth(restaurant). See The Fifth

Eckhouse, Herb, 39

Ecolab sanitation systems, 196

Edulis (restaurant), 177

eggs, 6

Eigensinn Farm (restaurant), 65

elderberry, 134

Élevages Périgord (supplier), 73

Eliot Hotel (Boston), 63

elk, 175

English, Todd, 178179

Enright, Michael, 142 enrobing machines, 196

Ensemble (restaurant), 215

Epicure (restaurant, Hôtel le Bristol, Paris), 19

escabèche, 5659

escolar, 65

Essential Mosimann, The (Mosimann), 102

Essex House (hotel), 208, 209

Evrensel, Jack, 68, 74, 8081

Expo 67, 110

extended menus, 178

Fabbrica (restaurant), 214

fair trade (cacao) beans, 183, 187

farmed fish, 62, 63, 64

Fat Duck (restaurant), 209

Feenie, Rob, 67, 7374, 8283, 134, 171174, 175, 176, 179, 200208, 214, 215

Feenie’s, 200, 203, 205

Felchin chocolate (Switzerland), 183, 188

Ferrer, Denis, 134

fine dining, simplification of, 208211, 214, 220221

finocchiona, 29

Fiorito, Joe, 142

fish suppliers, 6869

fishing, 4853, 56, 223

Fleur de Lys (restaurant), 67

flying squid, 59, 65

foie gras bans. See anti–foie gras movement

foie gras entier (terrine), 8384

foie gras mousse, 81

foie gras parfait, 82, 83

foie gras terrine, 81, 8384

Food & Wine magazine, 161

Food Matters: A Guide to Conscious Eating (Bittman), xv

Food Network, 214215

Foodservice and Hospitality magazine, 174

force-feeding (ducks/geese), xi, xii

Four Seasons Chicago, 195

Four Seasons Vancouver, 67, 195

Four Seasons Yorkville, 220

François, Annette, 72

François, Élisé, 72

Franco-Prussian War, 41

Frechon, Éric, 19

French Laundry (restaurant), 135

French-Asian fusion, 165, 169, 172

Froggett, Keith, 64

frogs’ legs, 108

fruit bats, 100101

fugu, 62

Fulton’s fish market, 62

Gaddi’s (restaurant), 167

Gaertner, Pierre, 108

Gagnaire, Pierre, 129

game dinner, Nota Bene, 91100

game terrine, 9798

Garvin, Fernande, 18

gastropubs, 209

Gault-Millau guide. See Guide Gault-Millau

Geddes, Libell, 103

geese, force-feeding, xi, xii

Gelda Scientific (lab), 156

gendarmes (cured sausage), 38

Gentile, Rob, 2436 George Brown College (Toronto), 86

Georgia Straight, 60

Gérard, Charles, xi

Giazitzidis, Gus, 27

gill disease, 122

Giller Prize, xiv, 141, 144

Girardet, Frédy, 7, 89

glasswort, 134

Globe and Mail, 88

Gluskin Sheff & Associates, 141

gnocco fritto, 36

goat, 27, 140

Gonthier, Jacques, 125

Gourmet magazine, 88, 174

Gowdy, Barbara, xiv

GQ magazine, 132

Grand National Hotel (Lucerne), 86

Great Food at Home (McEwan), 84

Grigson, Jane, 18

Grill Room (restaurant, Dorchester Hotel), 102, 109110

grouse, 92, 102105, 109, 112113

guanciale, 30

Guelph Food Technology Centre, 157

Guérard, Michel, 7

Guest, Larry, 169

Gugelmeier, Gunter, 167

Guide Gault-Millau, 7, 89, 126

Haas, Thomas, 181199

Haida Gwaii, 48

Haim, Abie, 153

Haim, Jan (Johnny), 146147, 148154, 155

hamachi, 62

Harbour Castle Hilton (Toronto), 110

Harvard Club, 63

Harveys (restaurant), 81, 191

Hawksworth, David, 7481, 82, 174, 175, 209210, 214

Hawksworth Restaurant, 7475, 210

hazelnut oil, 72

Hazelton Hotel (Toronto), 88

helzel, 145

herbs, wild, 134

herring, 5, 4849, 50, 51, 54, 57, 58, 59, 66

Hershey’s, 186

Hilton Hotel (Quebec City), 126

horsemeat, 11, 28, 38

Hôtel Belvédère (Davos), 195

Hôtel de la Cloche, 133

Hôtel de la Montagne, 133

Hôtel le Bristol (Paris), 19

Hôtel Le d’Avaugour (Dinan), 126

Hôtel Le Germain (Calgary), 215, 216

Hotel Michael (Singapore), 179

Hôtel Negresco (Nice), 67

Hôtel Plaza Athénée, 93

Hôtel Restaurant Chez Pierre, 106, 107

Howard, Philip, 79, 80

Humboldt squid, 59

hunting for profit, 92

ice plant, 136

Il Giardino (restaurant), 76

Île Verte (St. Lawrence), 133

Îles de la Madeleine fishermen, 133134

Institut Régional de Tourisme et d’Hôtellerie (Strasbourg), 108

intensive farming, 91

International Herald Tribune, 196

Ipswich clams, 61

Iron Chef America, 203 Isola (restaurant), 79, 80

Jackson, John, 215219

Jacob, Michel, 76, 202

Jacquet, François, 117

James Beard award, 83

James Beard dinners, 63

James Beard Foundation, 172

James Beard House (NY), 84

Jean-Georges (restaurant), 178

Jean-Talon Market (Montreal), 134

jellyfish, 59, 65

Jersey Red (pigs), 31

John Paul II (pope), 86

Johnson Seafarms, 64

Jöhri’s Talvo (restaurant, St. Moritz), 195

Josephson Opticians, 98

Josephson, Josh, 98, 100

Joy of Cooking, The (Rombauer), 1617

Jump (restaurant), 184

Jung, Émile, 108, 202, 203

Just Desserts, 190

Kates, Joanne, 88

Kay, Jonny, 142

Keep It Simple (Little), 120

Keller, Hubert, 67

Keller, Thomas, 73, 129, 135, 203

KFC, 161

king buck, 97

Kingham Plough (gastropub), 209

Koffmann, Pierre, 20, 81

konbu (seaweed), 130

konditormeister (master pastry chef), 192, 194

Kon-Tiki lounge, 164

Kravitz, Ben, 140

Kromberg, Peter, 101

L’actualité, 116

L’Ancienne Alsace à table (Gérard), xi

L’Eau à la Bouche (restaurant), 174

L’Escargot (restaurant), 79

L’Express bistro, 21

La Bastide Saint-Antoine (restaurant), 67

La Becasse (restaurant), 67

La Côte d’Or (restaurant), 108

La Ferme des Monts, 136

La Ferme Eumatimi, 136

La Ferme Kégo, 136

La Fleur du Lac (hotel), 101

La France Gastronomique (Rouff/ Sailland), 18

La Fromagerie Hamel, 131

La Maison Kemmerzell (restaurant), 4142

La Marie-Clarisse (restaurant), 132

La Mer (distributor), 134, 136

La Métairie (restaurant), 125126

la nouvelle cuisine, 125, 126, 167

La Quercia, 39

La Tamarissière (restaurant), 126

La Tante Claire (restaurant), 20, 81

La Véritable Cuisine de Famille par Tante Marie (Taride), 18

Ladurée (pâtisserie), 190

Lake Memphremagog (QC), 8, 20, 89

Lamarche, Christine, 210211

lamb, xv, 13, 19, 27, 36, 133, 136, 140, 172, 175, 209, 219

Lammie, Ron, 76

Lang, Christof, 65, 67

Laprise, Normand, 7072, 129135, 174, 210211, 214 lardo, 36

Large Black (pigs), 31

Larousse Gastronomique, 56

Lass, Max, 31

Lass, Vicki, 31

latkes, 145

Latner, Steven, 92, 98

Le Bernardin (restaurant), 61, 174

Le Canard Goulu (supplier), 72, 136

Le Cirque (restaurant), 135, 195

Le Crocodile (restaurant), 76, 172, 202

Le Croquembouche (Hilton Hotel), 127

Le Diamant Rose (restaurant), 67

Le Gavroche (restaurant), 174

Le Lutétia (restaurant), 133

Le Petit Blanc (restaurant), 79

Le Restaurant Initiale, 127131

Le Soufflé (restaurant), 101

Le Stanc, Dominique, 67

Lebrun, Yvan, 120130, 136137

Leclerc, Rolande, 117118, 121, 127128

Lee (restaurant), 211

Lee, David, 4345, 47, 91101, 110, 113

Lee, Kai, 211

Lee, Levi, 211

Lee, Susur, xii, 63, 160171, 178179, 211, 214

Lee Lounge, 179, 211

lemon tart, 191

Lenôtre (pâtisserie), 190

Les Grands Chefs Relais & Châteaux, 128

(See also Relais & Châteaux designation)

Les Grands Tables du Monde, 174

Lesters Deli, 141, 143

Leung, Cynthia, 186

Levine, Michael, 141

Levitt’s (deli), 140

Lindt, Rudolphe, 183

Lipp, Leonard, 41

Lithuanian Jews, 140

Little, Alastair, 120

live-forever (herb), 134

lobster, 6, 913, 45, 69, 85, 98, 115, 116, 117, 119120, 134, 136, 166, 197, 204

lobster pasta, 913

Lobster Pasta with Fucking Fennel, 13

lobster Thermidor, 9

locavore, 120, 129

Lohninger, Mario, 163

Loiseau, Bernard, 108

long line fishing, 56

lonzino, 32

Lotus (restaurant), 169

Loubet, Bruno, 79, 80

Louis XIV (king of France), 122

Lumière (restaurant), 67, 82, 134, 172174, 176, 179, 197, 200, 203204, 205, 215, 220

Lumière Tasting Bar, 203, 205

Macelleria Norcineria (bottega), 26

MacKay, Dale, 215

mackerel, 58, 59, 65

Madeline (restaurant), 179

Maison Boulud (restaurant), 220221

Maison du Bagel Saint-Viateur, 150

Maison du Bifthèque MainDeli. See The Main

Maison Troisgros (restaurant), 7

Manjari chocolate cake, 181

Mann, Stanley, 15 maple syrup, 115, 116, 139

Matsuhisa, Nobuyuki, 6364

Mayfair Hotel, 195

McClelland & Stewart, 142

McDonald, Chris, 39

McEwan (fine food emporium), 88, 214

McEwan, Mark, 26, 37, 8489, 214, 215

McPhee, Karen, 157

Me Lai Trin (restaurant), 166

medium-fats, 146147, 154

Memphis Blues (restaurant), 197

Menghi, Umberto, 76, 167

menu dégustation, 169, 171, 174, 177178

menu surprise, 109, 171

Métro Plouffes (supermarket), 11

Metropolitan Hotel, 196

Michelin stars, 7, 61, 67, 77, 79, 80, 81, 89, 94, 101, 107108, 117, 125, 172, 191, 195, 197, 202, 209

Micro (tasting room), 163

Mighty Taco (restaurant), 85

milkweed, 134

Milos (restaurant), 61

Mindy’s Wine Cellar (restaurant), 8485

Monterey Aquarium, 62

Montreal Hebrew Delicatessen. See Schwartz’s Delicatessen

Moore, Roger, 14

moose, 99, 100

morels, 72, 94, 119, 120, 137, 172

Morimoto, Masaharu, 203

Morrison (hotel), 115

Mortimer, John, 12, 14

Mosimann, Anton, 101, 102, 104, 109, 110, 171

Mosimann’s (private club), 101

moulard ducks, 72, 83

mousse de foies de volailles, 37

mozzafegato, 27, 28, 29

Mr. Sandman (Gowdy), xiv

Mrs. Beeton’s Book of Household Management (Mayson), 18

Musée de la Civilisation, 114

My Montreal Smoked Meat (recipe), 158

National Post, 37, 141, 142

New York Times, 118, 196

Newly Weds Foods, 156157

Newman, Nanette, 14

Next! (restaurant), 178

Niagara Food Specialties, 35

Noah’s Apple Pie, 14

Nobu restaurant chain, 63

Norcia, 26

North 44 (restaurant), 84, 85, 8788, 175, 176, 214

North American Pastry Chef of the Year competition (NY), 195

Nota Bene (restaurant), 43, 45, 9395

Notes of a Cellar-Book (Saintsbury), 102

nouvelle cuisine, 109

Nouvelle Cuisine of Jean & Pierre Troisgros, The (Troisgros), 7

O’Connor, Geoff, 93, 95, 96

Ocean Wise, xv, 56, 62, 69

octopus, 65, 162

Oeufs à l’africaine, 6

Oeufs Cardinal, 6

Offman, Allan, 141

Oliver & Bonacini restaurants, 38, 184, 186 omakase (Japanese tradition), 171, 178

Omelette au sucre, 6

One (restaurant), 26, 88, 214

Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources, 92

Orca Lodge, 76

Oringer, Ken, 63, 160

Ouest (restaurant), 74 (See also West)

oven temperature, early instructions, 17

Owl’s Nest, 216

oysters, 62, 116, 122123, 124, 197

Pabst, Frank, 5759, 60, 6263, 6567

Pacific octopus, 65

Palace Hotel (St. Moritz), 109

Palmex (supplier), 72

Panache (restaurant), 115, 116

pancetta, 28, 30, 32

panning (chocolate production), 184

Paramount (hotel), 115

partridge, 81, 107, 116

pastoralism, xiv

pastrami, 140

pastry chefs, 190191

pastry kitchen equipment, 196

pata negra, 39

Pataki, Amy, 39

pâtés, 37

Pâtisserie Belge, 42

Pearl Harbourfront, xvxvi

Pec-Nord Gourmet (distributor), 136

Peking duck, xvxvi

Peninsula Hotel, 166167

Per Se (restaurant), 178

Perigee (restaurant), 38, 175, 176

Périgord truffles, 161, 162

Perly Rae, Arlene, 142

PETA, 82

Peter Pan (restaurant), 168169

Petite Thuet, 22, 43, 211

Petuna Seafoods (supplier), 64

Peyton, Oliver, 79

pheasant, 81, 82, 83, 92, 97, 112

Philippin, Serge, 67

Physiology of Taste, The (Brillat-Savarin), 163

Picard, Martin, 44, 58

Pieri, Carlo, 2526

Pierre Gagnaire (restaurant), 174

Pineapple Carpaccio with Ginger Vanilla Syrup and Cilantro, 193

Pingue, Mario, 35

Poilâne, 22, 23

Point, Fernand, 10, 19

pole fishing, 56

pop-up restaurant. See Charpop

porchetta, 33

Porter, Julian, 141

poularde de Bresse en vessie, 19

poutine, 58, 117, 139

prawns, 62, 116

pre-migratory feasting, xii

pré-salé lamb, 133

Prevedello, Franco, ixx, 86

Prince of Wales, 101

princess cake, 181

princess scallops, 136

Pronto (restaurant), 86, 87

prosciuttini, 29, 32, 39

prosciutto, 24, 28, 30, 32, 3336, 112

prosciutto of bison leg. See salumi

Provincial Fine Foods, 39

purse seine nets, 56

Putter’s (deli), 140

quail, 136

Quebec

foie gras industry, 7273

gourmand festival, 129

haute cuisine in, 114137

Queen Elizabeth Hotel (Montreal), 110

Quintal d’Alsace, 42

rabbit, 37, 38, 101, 107, 113, 219

Rabinovitch, Jack, 142, 143144

Ramsay, Gordon, 20, 80

Randall, Tony, 14

Recipes

Cured Herring Tartare with Apple, Onion, and Coriander, 66

Lobster Pasta with Fucking Fennel, 13

My Montreal Smoked Meat, 158

Pineapple Carpaccio with Ginger Syrup and Cilantro, 193

Roast Grouse with Braised Pears, Baby Onions, Chanterelles, and Red Wine Reduction, 105

Saffron Puff Pastry with Sea Urchin, Chinese Artichokes, and Brussels Sprouts à la soubise, 123124

Singaporean Slaw with Umeboshi Dressing, 170171

Squash and Mascarpone Ravioli with Truffle Butter, 212213

Suckling Pig and Boudin Tart, 46

Whole Roasted Foie Gras, 90

(See also culinary books)

Recipes from Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons (Blanc), 76

Red Wattles (pigs), 45

Relais & Châteaux designation, 174, 197

Relais Gourmand, 174

Resorts World Sentosa, 179

Restaurant Alain Ducasse, 93

Restaurant Au Crocodile, 108, 109, 202

Restaurant Buerehiesel, 108

Restaurant Daniel, 195196, 199, 221

Restaurant de Bacon, 67

Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, 20

Restaurant Initiale, 116122

Restaurant L’Ecureuil, 108

Restaurant Lasserre, 125

Restaurant Laurent, 125

Restaurant Ledoyen, 125

Restaurant magazine, 161

Restaurant of the Year Award (Vancouver Magazine), 203

reverse tasting menu, 163164

Ribreau, Martial, 22

Richardson Researches (culinary school), 184

Richler, Daniel, 1

Richler, Florence, 1, 56, 810, 1112, 1416, 1922, 4041, 89, 103, 142, 150, 215

Richler, Max, xv, 69, 138, 139

Richler, Mordecai, 15, 8, 9, 14, 15, 19, 4041, 69, 128, 142, 144152

Richler, Noah, 1, 142, 143

Richler, Simone, xvxvi, 111112

Richman, Alan, 132

Ripert, Éric, 61

Ritz-Carlton Hotel (Montreal), 220

Roast Grouse with Braised Pears, Baby Onions, Chanterelles, and Red Wine Reduction, 105

roast pork, 33

roasted foie gras, 8990

roasting (chocolate production), 187

Robb Report, 60

Robot Coupe blenders, 196

Robuchon, Joël, 89

Roëlly, Michel, 108109

Rogatko deli, 140

Romanian Jews, 140

Rombauer, Irma, 16

Roots, 141

rosettes de Lyons (cured sausage), 39

Rosewood Hotel Georgia, 74, 210

Rossi, Rob, 215

Rotary Club, 194, 201

Rouff, Marcel, 18

Rousseau, Carl, 135

Royal quails, 136

Ruby, Clayton, 141

Rumpole of the Bailey (Mortimer), 12

sablefish, 59

Saffron Puff Pastry with Sea Urchin, Chinese Artichokes, and Brussels

Sprouts à la soubise, 123124

Sailland, Maurice Edmond. See

Curnonsky

Saintsbury, George, 102, 104

Salade de ris de veau au pois gourmands, 7

salatura (salting), 34

salmon, 7, 19, 20, 22, 48, 49, 51, 52, 54, 56, 62, 63, 65, 69, 97, 131, 132

salsiccia cruda, 26, 36

salt marsh lamb. See pré-salé lamb

salumi, 2529, 35, 36

Sandringham Estate (UK), 101

Santamaria, Santi, 116117, 197

sardines, 5658, 59, 65

sauce cardinal, 6

saucisses de Colmar, 42

saucisses de Montbéliard, 43

saucisses de Strasbourg, 5, 41, 42

saucissons d’Arles, 38

sauerkraut, 4043

Saumon à l’oseille, 78

scallops, 62, 116, 124, 197

Scaramouche (restaurant), 64, 175

Scharffen Berger (chocolate manufacturer), 186

Schnell, Albert, 110

Schwartz’s Delicatessen, 4, 128, 138, 140, 141, 143, 144, 146157

Schwarzenegger, Arnold, x

sea bream, 11, 162

sea buckthorn, 136

sea purslane, 134

sea sandwort, 134

sea urchin, 65, 122, 123, 175

seafood restaurants, 67

seafood suppliers, 62, 6869

seafood sustainability, 58, 6165

(See also Ocean Wise; Seafood Watch)

Seafood Watch, 62

seared foie gras, 80, 8182

seaweed, 130, 175

Senses, 196197

Serrano ham, 3839

Settebello (restaurant), 76

Seven Year Itch, The (Axelrod), 16

Sha Lin Noodle House, 68

Shang (restaurant), 178, 179

shark, 69, 82 Sheff, Gerry, 141, 142

Sheraton Hotel (Toronto), 167

Sheraton Mount Royal Hotel (Montreal), 164

Shops at Don Mills, 88

shortnose sturgeon, 65

shrimp, 11, 69, 162, 164

Silk (restaurant), 163

Silva, Frank, 155

Simon, André, 102, 104

Singaporean Slaw with Umeboshi

Dressing, 170171

skate, 62, 64, 164

slaughter (pigs), 1819, 25

Slinger, Joey, 142

Smoke Meat Pete, 141, 143

smoked meat, 138159

smoked meat recipe, 158

smoked salmon, 22, 121

Snell, Cole, 39

Snowden Deli, 145

sockeye salmon, 69

Solomon Gursky Was Here (Richler), 19, 40

Soma, 184187

Soulard, Jean, 126, 127

sourdough miche, 22

spice mix, 149, 150, 155158

Splendido (restaurant), 44, 93, 97, 174, 176177

squab, 37, 81, 121, 136, 197

Squash and Mascarpone Ravioli with Truffle Butter, 212213

squid, 59, 65

Srdoc, Wanda, 95, 97

St. Moritz Gourmet Festival, 195

St. Regis hotel, 216

Stars, 116

St-Canut cream-fed pork, 134

steam ovens, 169

Stilton cheesecake, 181

Stronach, Frank, 107

sturgeon, 5, 63, 65

suckling pig, 19, 45, 46, 135

Suckling Pig and Boudin Tart, 46

sugnatora, 29

suino pesante, 24

Susur (restaurant), xii, 160162, 177, 179

Sutton Place (hotel), 86

swine fever, 39

Tabo, Yoshihiro, 60, 62

Tamworth pigs, 28

Tamworth-Berkshire cross (pigs), 31

Tante Marie’s French Kitchen (Taride), 18

tarte Tatin, 191, 194

tasting menus, 36, 82, 94, 130132, 160179

teal, 81, 97

Tekna coolers, 196

television, 214215

tempering machines, 196

terrines, 3738

The Canteen (restaurant), 77, 78

The Capital (restaurant), 81

The Fifth, 10, 39, 81, 103, 175, 185

The Main (deli), 141

The Square (restaurant), 79

The Terrace (restaurant, Dorchester Hotel), 109110, 171

The Times (London), 80

themed banquets, 160161

This Year in Jerusalem (Richler), 148

Thomas Haas Fine Chocolates and Pâtisserie, 180183, 188190, 192, 196, 199

Thompson Hotel group, 178179

Thuet, Jules, 111

Thuet, Marc, ix, x, xiixiii, 10, 11, 12, 22, 4243, 81, 83, 102, 103113, 184, 185186, 211, 214

Thuet, Robbie, 112

Thuet Cuisine (restaurant), 211

Tjioe, Andrew, 179

Tojo (restaurant), 178

tomatoes, 136137

Top Chef Canada, 214215

Top Table restaurant group, 68

Toqué! (restaurant), 7071, 129, 135, 177, 210211

Toronto Department of Public Health, 92

Toronto Distillery District, 38, 175, 184

Toronto International Film Festival, xiii, 220

Toronto Life magazine, 88

Toronto Star, 39

tourtière, 117118, 139

Tower, Jeremiah, 116

Traditional Recipes for the Provinces of France, Selected by Curnonsky, 18, 42

Troisgros, Jean, 7

Troisgros, Pierre, 7

trolling, 56

Trotter, Charlie, xi, xiixiii, 73, 8283, 171172, 178, 203

trout, 64, 173

truffled scrambled eggs, 9597

truffles (chocolate), 137, 181, 185, 188, 205

truffles (fungi), 6, 55, 58, 59, 81, 82, 92, 94, 9599, 161, 162165, 173, 175, 206207, 212213

Tsai, Ming, 6364, 160

Tsebelis, Peter, 27

tuna, 56, 6263, 64, 65, 69, 121, 124, 216

TungLok restaurant group, 169, 179

Tuscan pork sausage, 29

Twiggy, 14

Umberto’s (restaurant), 172

uni (sea urchin gonads), 175

Union Bank of Lower Canada building, 118

University of Guelph, 85

urbanization, xiv

vacuum emulsifiers, 196

Valrhona chocolate (France), 183, 185, 188

Valrhona National Pastry Competition, 196197

van Gameren, Grant, 216217, 218, 219

Vancouver Aquarium, 56, 62

Vancouver Magazine, 60, 67, 173174, 203

vegetarianism, xv (See also anti–foie gras movement)

venison, 99, 100, 115, 116, 134, 136

Vergé, Roger, 109110

Villa del Lupo (restaurant), 76

Visa Infinite dining series, 215

Vongerichten, Jean-Georges, 203

Vonlanthen, Joseph, 8586

Waltz, Jean-Jacques (“Oncle Hansi”), 42

Watkins, Emily, 209

West (restaurant), 55, 58, 74, 174, 175, 210

Westbury Hotel (Toronto), 168

Westermann, Antoine, 108, 203

Westwood, Bruce, 141

Westwood Creative Artists, 141

White, Marco Pierre, 76, 79, 80, 8182, 120, 191

White Bone, The (Gowdy), xiv

White Elephant club, 12

White Elephant Cookbook, The, 12, 14

White Heat (White), 7677

white sturgeon, 58, 63

white truffle pasta, 98

Whole Roasted Foie Gras, 90

wild boar, 27, 65, 106, 107

wild fish, 62, 63

wild ginger, 134

wild mushrooms, 136

wild sablefish, 63

Wilson, David, 185186

Windsor Arms Hotel (Toronto), 110

winnowing (chocolate production), 186

winter cress, 134

Winter Olympics (2010), 200

Witzigmann, Eckart, 73, 89, 109

Wodarz, Hans-Peter, 109110

woodcock, 112

yamaimo (Japanese mountain potato), 175

yellowfin tuna, 56, 63

York University (Toronto), 141

Yorkshire pigs, 28

Yorkville (Toronto), 167, 220

Zagat, 88

Zentan, 179