If you master these bases (foundations), you are guaranteed success with every recipe in this book. We use a simple French custard base (essentially a crème anglaise) for our ice creams with a lot of egg yolks for our signature rich, smooth texture. The eggs are a natural stabilizer, so the ice cream doesn’t overfreeze, and you don’t have to use the artificial gums and stabilizers found in most store-bought products. If you have an egg allergy, don’t have time for the 2-day process, or simply prefer less richness to your ice cream, our recipes also come out fine with our quick-and-easy eggless base.
Makes about: 1½ quarts | Active time: 10 to 15 minutes
Use the freshest eggs available for best results. If possible, refrigerate the base for a full 24 hours—the longer, the better. We like to chill our bases in plastic or stainless-steel pitchers with airtight lids for easy pouring into the ice cream maker after chilling.
In a 4-quart saucepan, combine milk, cream, and half of sugar. Set over high heat, and cook, stirring occasionally, until mixture comes to a boil, about 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk yolks and remaining sugar until smooth, heavy, and pale yellow, about 30 seconds.
When cream mixture just comes to a boil, whisk, remove from heat, and, in a slow stream, pour half of cream mixture over yolk-sugar mixture, whisking constantly until blended.
Return pan to stovetop over low heat. Whisking constantly, stream yolk-cream mixture back into pan.
With a wooden spoon, continue stirring until mixture registers 165 to 180 degrees on an instant-read thermometer, about 2 minutes. Do not heat above 180 degrees, or eggs in base will scramble. Mixture should be slightly thickened and coat back of spoon, with steam rising, but not boiling. (If you blow on the back of the spoon and the mixture ripples, you’ve got the right consistency.)
Pour base into a clean airtight container and refrigerate for 12 to 24 hours before using.
Use base within 3 to 5 days.
Use the freshest eggs available for best results. If possible, refrigerate the base for a full 24 hours—the longer it’s chilled, the better it is. We like to chill our bases in plastic or stainless-steel pitchers with airtight lids for easy pouring into the ice cream maker after chilling.
Makes about: 1½ quarts | Active time: 10 to 15 minutes
In a 4-quart saucepan, combine milk, cream, and half of sugar. Set over high heat, and cook, stirring occasionally, until mixture comes to a boil, about 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk yolks and remaining sugar until smooth, heavy, and pale yellow, about 30 seconds.
When cream mixture just comes to a boil, whisk, remove from heat, and, in a slow stream, pour half of cream mixture over yolk-sugar mixture, whisking constantly until blended.
Return pan to stovetop over low heat. Whisking constantly, stream yolk-cream mixture back into pan.
With a wooden spoon, continue stirring until mixture registers 165 to 180 degrees on an instant-read thermometer, about 2 minutes. Do not heat above 180 degrees, or eggs in base will scramble. Mixture should be slightly thickened and coat back of spoon, with steam rising, but not boiling. (If you blow on the back of the spoon and the mixture ripples, you’ve got the right consistency.)
Remove from heat and immediately add chopped chocolate, whisking until smooth.
Pour base into a clean airtight container and refrigerate for 12 to 24 hours before using .
Use base within 3 to 5 days.
To make a basic chocolate ice cream, process base in an ice cream maker according to manufacturer’s instructions. Transfer to an airtight storage container and freeze for a minimum of 2 hours.
Makes about: 2 quarts | Active time: 2 to 3 minutes
This quick-and-easy base is often referred to as “Philly-style,” because of the City of Brotherly Love’s partiality to it. It’s not only good for our ovoid-averse friends, but it can be made for ice cream “on demand,” because it does not have to be refrigerated overnight as the custard base does. It’s ready for ice cream making as soon as the sugar dissolves and the flavoring is added.
In a 4-quart saucepan, combine cream, half-and-half, sugar, and vanilla. Cook over low heat, stirring, until sugar is just dissolved, about 2 minutes.
Use immediately or refrigerate in a clean airtight container for 3 to 5 days.
