images  BAMBOO SHOOTS

Season: spring–summer

Flavor: bitter (raw) / sweet (cooked); with woody notes of artichokes, corn, nuts, and/or water chestnuts, and a crisp yet tender, juicy, pineapple-like texture

Volume: quiet

Nutritional profile: 54% carbs / 31% protein / 15% fat

Calories: 15 per 1-cup serving (boiled, sliced)

Protein: 2 grams

Techniques: boil (about 60 minutes), braise, pickle, sauté, steam, stew, stir-fry

Tips: Rinse well in cold water before using. Look for precooked, vacuum-sealed bamboo shoots, or whole (not sliced) canned shoots.

Asian cuisines

basil

beans, e.g., long

bell peppers

bok choy

cabbage, e.g., Chinese, napa

carrots

chiles, e.g., red

Chinese cuisine

cilantro

curries, e.g., green, red, Thai

daikon

dashi

dill

eggs

garlic

ginger

jícama

kombu

lime

lotus root

mirin

miso

mushrooms, e.g., enoki, oyster, portobello, shiitake, white noodles, Asian, e.g., shirataki

oil, e.g., peanut, sesame, vegetable

onions

pineapple

pumpkin seeds

rice

sake

salads, e.g., Asian, green

scallions

sea vegetables, e.g., hiziki, wakame

seitan

shallots

slaws

snow peas

soups, e.g., hot-and-sour, mushroom, noodle, vegetable

soy sauce

spinach

stews

stir-fries

sugar snap peas

tamari

tempeh

Thai cuisine

tofu

Vietnamese cuisine

vinegar, rice

wasabi

water chestnuts

wine, rice

zucchini

Flavor Affinities

bamboo shoots + basil + bell peppers + coconut milk + red chili paste

bamboo shoots + chiles + cilantro + lime

bamboo shoots + dashi + mirin + rice + soy sauce

bamboo shoots + rice + sake + scallions + shirataki noodles + soy sauce + tofu

bamboo shoots + soy sauce + wasabi

Dishes

Bamboo Shoot Chazuke: Bamboo Shoots, Shiitake, Enoki Mushrooms, Sansho Peppercorn

—Kajitsu (New York City)

 

images  BANANAS

Flavor: sweet, with astringent notes, and a firm, creamy texture

Volume: quiet

What it is: fruit

Nutritional profile: 93% carbs / 4% protein / 3% fat

Calories: 105 per medium banana (raw)

Techniques: bake, broil, caramelize, deep-fry, freeze (e.g., for smoothies), grill, poach, puree, raw, sauté

Tips: Freeze before adding to smoothies to eliminate or reduce the need for ice. Puree frozen bananas—or put through a Champion juicer (using the “Blank” instead of the “Screen”), and they will come out the texture of soft-serve ice cream to enjoy as-is or with toppings such as maple syrup and nuts.

agave nectar

apples and apple juice

apricots, e.g., dried, fresh

Armagnac

baked goods, e.g., breads, cakes, cookies, muffins, pies, quickbreads

berries, e.g., blackberries, blueberries, raspberries, strawberries

bourbon

bread and toast, whole grain

butter

Calvados

caramel

cardamom

cereals, breakfast

cherries

cheese, e.g., cream, ricotta

chiles

chocolate, e.g., dark, white

cilantro

cinnamon

COCONUT and COCONUT MILK

cognac

CREAM and ICE CREAM

cumin

curry powder

dates

figs

flax seeds

French toast

fruit, other tropical

ginger

granola

honey

Kirsch

lassis

lemon

lime

malt

mangoes, e.g., green, ripe

MAPLE SYRUP

nectarines

nutmeg

NUTS and NUT BUTTERS, e.g., ALMONDS, cashews, macadamia, peanut, pecans

oats and oatmeal

oil, e.g., olive

onions

oranges

pancakes

papaya

passion fruit

peaches

pears

PINEAPPLE

raisins

RUM

salads, fruit

sesame seeds, e.g., black, white

SMOOTHIES

sugar, e.g., brown

sunflower seeds

sweet potatoes

tamarind

vanilla

walnuts

yogurt

yuzu

Flavor Affinities

bananas + almond milk + nutmeg + vanilla

bananas + almonds + oatmeal

bananas + apple juice + cinnamon

bananas + apricots + yogurt

bananas + blueberries + yogurt

bananas + cashews + pineapple

bananas + chocolate + peanuts

bananas + cinnamon + orange

bananas + citrus (e.g., lime, orange) + coconut

bananas + coconut + pineapple + sesame

bananas + dates + flax seeds

bananas + honey + peanut butter

bananas + maple syrup + oatmeal

bananas + oranges + papaya

bananas + peaches + raspberries

bananas + pineapple + sesame seeds

Dishes

Banana Walnut Bread with Maple Cinnamon Butter

—Greens Restaurant (San Francisco)

Banana Caramel Cake with Toasted Almonds and Milk Chocolate Ice Cream

—Greens Restaurant (San Francisco)

 

images  BARLEY (e.g., HULLED)

Flavor: sweet, with astringent notes of nuts, and chewy in texture

Volume: quiet–moderate

What it is: whole grain

Nutritional profile: 82% carbs / 13% protein / 5% fat

Gluten-free: no

Calories: 100 per 1-ounce serving (yields about ½ cup)

Protein: 3 grams

Techniques: boil, pressure-cook, simmer, steam, toast

Ratio: 1:3 (1 part barley to 3 parts cooking liquid)

Tips: For a deeper flavor, toast barley before soaking and cooking. For maximum nutrition, opt for hulled barley (which has an extra layer of fiber-rich bran), versus pearl barley (which has its outer husk removed). Try barley flakes instead of rolled oats in breakfast cereals.

Botanical relatives: corn, kamut, rye, spelt, triticale

agave nectar

almonds

apples

arugula

avocados

basil

bay leaf

beans, e.g., kidney, lima, white

beer

beets

bell peppers, e.g., red, yellow

black-eyed peas

breads

broccoli de Cicco and broccoli rabe

burdock

buttermilk

cabbage

capers

cardamom

CARROTS

cashews

casseroles

cauliflower

celery

cereals, hot breakfast

cheese, e.g., feta, goat, pecorino

chiles, e.g., jalapeños

chives

cilantro

cinnamon

coconut

corn

currants

curry powder

dill

eggplant

fennel

figs

fruits, dried

GARLIC

gratins

greens

herbs, fresh

honey

kale

leeks

LEMON, e.g., juice, zest

lentils

loaves

maple syrup

marjoram

milk, dairy or non-dairy, e.g., rice or soy

mint

miso

*MUSHROOMS, esp. cremini, porcini, portobello, shiitake, trumpet, wild

nutmeg

OIL, e.g., grapeseed, OLIVE, sesame, sunflower

olives, e.g., black, green, kalamata

ONIONS, e.g., spring, white

oranges

oregano

“paellas”

PARSLEY

peas

pepper, black

pilafs

pomegranates and pomegranate molasses

puddings

quinoa

raisins

rice, e.g., brown

“RISOTTOS”

sage

SALADS, e.g., barley, grain, green

salt, sea

scallions

seeds, e.g., sesame, sunflower

sesame, e.g., oil, seeds

shallots

SOUPS, e.g., mushroom

sour cream

soy sauce

spelt

spinach

squash, e.g., butternut

stews

stir-fries

stock, e.g., mushroom or vegetable

stuffed peppers

stuffings

sweet potatoes

tamari

tarragon

thyme

tomatoes and sun-dried tomatoes

vegetables, root

veggie burgers

vinegar, e.g., umeboshi

yogurt

zucchini

Flavor Affinities

barley + almonds + cauliflower

barley + arugula + orange

barley + basil + corn + garlic + risotto

barley + beets + fennel

barley + beets + lemon

barley + butternut squash + portobello mushrooms

barley + carrots + herbs + mushrooms

barley + cashews + cilantro + mint

barley + cashews + parsley + salads

barley + cinnamon + milk + raisins

barley + dill + lentils + mushrooms

barley + feta cheese + risotto

barley + feta cheese + shiitake mushrooms + salads

barley + garlic + marjoram + white wine + wild mushrooms

barley + honey + milk

barley + kale + tomato + soups

barley + mint + peas

barley + parsley + white beans

Dishes

Warm Barley Cereal with Natural Honey, Flaxseed, Orange Segments, Fresh Figs, Almond Milk, and Organic Almonds

—Mayflower Inn & Spa (Washington, CT)

 

Barley malt syrup is a great liquid sweetener I’ll use to sweeten desserts like custards, or when making candied nuts. Its flavor is distinctive—it’s already caramelized, almost like a great Madeira or sherry. I use it in a dessert based on beer and pretzels, where it plays against the maltiness of the beer.”

—KATE JACOBY, VEDGE (PHILADELPHIA)

 

images  BARLEY, PEARL (or PEARLED)

Flavor: slightly sweet, with notes of nuts, and a soft, chewy texture

Volume: quiet–moderate

What it is: grain (not whole)

Nutritional profile: 90% carbs / 7% protein / 3% fat

Calories: 195 per 1-cup serving (cooked)

Protein: 4 grams

Techniques: boil, simmer

Timing: Cook about 30–75 minutes, until tender.

Ratio: 1: 2 ½–3 ½ (1 cup barley to 2 ½–3 ½ cups cooking liquid)

Tip: Opt for whole-grain barley (which is higher in fiber; see BARLEY) when you have the extra time to cook it; otherwise, faster-cooking pearl barley (which doesn’t require presoaking) will do.

Flavor Affinities

pearl barley + basil + tomatoes + zucchini

pearl barley + beets + fennel + lemon

pearl barley + blue cheese + mushrooms

pearl barley + chard + fennel + soup

pearl barley + cucumbers + feta cheese + red onions

pearl barley + garlic + mushrooms + onions

pearl barley + nuts + raisins

pearl barley + Swiss chard + white beans

Dishes

Pearl Barley and Chanterelle Mushroom “Potage”: Crème Fraîche “Royale,” Brioche Croûtons, and Celery Branch “Ribbons”

—Per Se (New York City)

 

images  BASIL

Season: summer

Flavor: slightly sweet, fragrant, with pungent notes of anise, cinnamon, citrus, cloves, licorice, mint, and/or pepper

Volume: moderate–loud

Tips: Add this herb just before serving. Use to add a note of freshness to a dish.

Botanical relatives: lavender, marjoram, mint, oregano, rosemary, sage, summer savory, thyme

Flavor Affinities

basil + asparagus + peas + risotto + saffron

basil + capers + tomatoes

basil + chiles + cilantro + garlic + lime + mint

basil + chiles + olive oil + pine nuts + sun-dried tomatoes

basil + corn + tomatoes

basil + cucumbers + mint + peas

BASIL + GARLIC + OLIVE OIL + Parmesan cheese + pine nuts

BASIL + GARLIC + OLIVE OIL + TOMATOES

basil + lemon + olive oil

basil + mint + pistachios

basil + mozzarella cheese + olive oil

basil + mushrooms + tomatoes

basil + tomatoes + white beans

 

BASIL, THAI

Flavor: bitter/sweet; aromatic, with pungent/spicy notes of anise, basil, cinnamon, flowers, licorice, and/or mint

Volume: moderate–loud

Tips: Add this herb to dishes just before serving. Do not substitute for Italian basil.

Asian cuisines

bamboo shoots

cashews

chiles and chili pepper paste (e.g., Thai)

cilantro

coconut milk

corn

curries, e.g., green, Indian red, Thai

eggplant

garlic

ginger

Kaffir lime leaves

lemongrass

lime

mango

marinades

mint

mushrooms, e.g., shiitake

noodles, e.g., Asian

oil, e.g., grape seed, pumpkin seed

papaya, green

peanuts

salads

scallions

shallots

soups, e.g., Asian, coconut milk–based, vegetarian pho

Southeast Asian cuisines

soy sauce

stir-fries

stock, vegetable

sugar, e.g., maple, palm

Thai cuisine

tofu

Vietnamese cuisine

zucchini

Flavor Affinities

Thai basil + chiles + Kaffir lime leaves

Thai basil + cilantro + mint

Thai basil + coconut milk + peanuts

 

 

images  BEANS—IN GENERAL (or MIXED)

What they are: legumes

Techniques: Always cook thoroughly.

Timing: Most beans require anywhere from a half-hour to two hours to cook, depending on the type of bean and length of presoaking.

Tips: Soak dried beans overnight (or for 8–10 hours) before cooking. Drain and rinse the beans before cooking in fresh water for about 1–3 hours, depending on the type of bean. While you can add alliums (e.g., garlic, onions) or herbs (e.g., parsley, thyme) during the cooking process, do not add acid (e.g., lemon, tomato, vinegar) during cooking; acids may interfere with the cooking process. If you don’t buy salt-free canned beans, rinse before using. Dried beans will typically yield three times their quantity in cooked beans (i.e., ⅓ cup dried beans = 1 cup cooked beans). Certain compatible seasonings also aid in the digestion of beans, e.g., asafoetida, cumin, fennel, ginger, kombu, savory.

Botanical relatives: lentils, peanuts, peas

Brands: Eden

avocado

basil

bay leaf

bell peppers

butter

carrots

cassoulet, vegetarian

cayenne

celery

cheese, e.g., Jack

chervil

chiles

chili powder

cilantro

cloves

coriander

cumin

dips

epazote

fennel

GARLIC

ginger

grains, whole

greens

KOMBU

lemon, e.g., juice

lime, e.g., juice

marjoram

mayonnaise

mint

oil, olive

onions

oregano

paprika and smoked paprika

PARSLEY

pastas

pesto

quesadillas

*RICE, e.g., brown

rosemary

saffron

sage

salads, e.g., bean, green

salsa, tomato

salt, e.g., sea

*SAVORY

soups

thyme

tomatoes

tortillas, whole wheat

turmeric

vinegar, e.g., rice

“We only cook our beans in clay pots, called olla de barro, because they taste so much better cooked that way. When we first experimented, we soaked the beans overnight, then cooked half in a traditional metal pot and the other half in a clay pot [which transmits heat more gently, allowing flavors to develop more slowly but with greater depth]. You could absolutely taste the difference.”

—SELMA MIRIAM, BLOODROOT (BRIDGEPORT, CT)

Dishes

Three-Bean Chili: Piquant Chili made with Homemade Seitan, Kidney, and Pinto Beans and Lentils; slowly simmered with Sun-Dried Tomatoes and a blend of Chiles; topped with Lime-Jalapeño Tofu Sour Cream

—Angelica Kitchen (New York City)

Vegetarian Cassoulet made with White Beans, Cauliflower, Brussels Sprouts, Pearl Onions, Swiss Chard, and Cremini Mushrooms, finished with Arethusa Farm Cream and an Herbed Bread Crumb Crust

—Arethusa Al Tavolo (Bantam, Connecticut)

image

 

images  BEANS, ADZUKI (aka ADUKI or AZUKI BEANS)

[ah-ZOO-kee]

Flavor: sweet/sour, with earthy notes of chestnuts and/or nuts

Volume: moderate–loud

What they are: small red Japanese legumes

Nutritional profile: 79% carbs / 20% protein / 1% fat

Calories: 295 per 1-cup serving (boiled)

Protein: 17 grams

Techniques: bake, boil, mash, simmer, stew, stir-fry

Timing: Presoak beans for at least an hour or two (or ideally overnight); bring to a boil, and then simmer 30–90 minutes, until soft.

Flavor Affinities

adzuki beans + brown rice + garlic + ginger + scallions + sesame oil + tamari

adzuki beans + carrots + ginger + sea salt

adzuki beans + cilantro + coconut milk + lime

adzuki beans + coriander + cumin + ginger

adzuki beans + ginger + sesame oil and seeds + rice

adzuki beans + miso + scallions + shiitake mushrooms

adzuki beans + sesame seeds + sushi rice

adzuki beans + soy sauce or tamari + winter squash

Dishes

Heirloom BLT: Heirloom Tomatoes, Adzuki Bacon, Bibb Lettuce, Basil Mayo, Toasted Sourdough

—The Butcher’s Daughter (New York City)

Adzuki Bean Vegetable Burger made with Cabbage, Carrots, Celery, Oats, Onions, and Rice (Brown, Red, Wild)

—Flourish Baking Company (Scarsdale, NY)

 

images  BEANS, ANASAZI

Flavor: slightly sweet, with a firm, somewhat mealy texture

Volume: quiet

What they are: legumes

Calories: 150 per ¼-cup serving (dry)

Protein: 7 grams

Techniques: boil, braise, pressure-cook (20+ minutes), simmer (for 60–90 minutes, until tender)

Ratio: 1:3 (1 cup beans to 3 cups cooking liquid)

Tip: Presoak beans for several hours, or overnight, before cooking.

Botanical relatives (and possible substitutes): pinto beans

avocado

baked beans

beans, other, e.g., black

bell peppers

bread crumbs

carrots

casseroles

cayenne

celery

cheese

chiles, e.g., Anaheim, ancho, chipotle, jalapeno

chili powder

chili, vegetarian

cilantro

cinnamon

cloves

coriander

corn

cumin

dips, e.g., bean

epazote

garlic

kombu

Latin American cuisines

Mexican cuisine

molasses

Native American cuisine

oil, e.g., olive

onions, e.g., green, yellow

oregano

parsley

potatoes

pumpkin

quinoa

refried beans

salsas

soups, e.g. bean, vegetable

sour cream

Southwestern (U.S.) cuisine

stews

stock, vegetable

tomatoes, e.g., fresh, sun-dried

veggie burgers

vinegar, e.g., red wine

Flavor Affinities

anasazi beans + carrots + celery + onions + pumpkin + stews

anasazi beans + garlic + tomatoes