images  LYCHEES

Season: summer

Flavor: sweet; aromatic, with notes of cherries and/or grapes, and a juicy, jelly-like texture

Volume: quiet–moderate

Nutritional profile: 90% carbs / 6% fats / 4% protein

Calories: 125 per 1-cup serving (raw)

Protein: 2 grams

Technique: raw

Tip: Do not eat the seeds, which are toxic.

almonds

bell peppers

BERRIES, e.g., blackberries, blueberries, raspberries, strawberries

cheese, cream

cherries

chiles, e.g., jalapeño, serrano

Chinese cuisine

chocolate, white

cilantro

coconut and coconut milk

cream

desserts, e.g., fruit tarts

drinks, e.g., cocktails

garlic

gin

ginger

grapefruit

honey

ice cream

jícama

kiwi

lemon, e.g., juice

lemongrass

LIME, e.g., juice

mango

melon, e.g., honeydew

mint

nectarines

nuts

onions, e.g., green or red

oranges, e.g., mandarins, tangerines

passion fruit

peaches

pears, e.g., Asian

pineapple

plums

puddings, e.g., bread, rice

rice

rose water

rum

sake

salads, fruit

salsas, fruit

sugar, e.g., brown, palm

vanilla

vodka

wine, e.g., plum, sparkling

yogurt

Flavor Affinities

lychees + coconut milk + rice

lychees + ginger + kiwi

lychees + ginger + lime

lychees + honey + lime

 

MACA, MACA POWDER, or MACA ROOT

Flavor: notes of butterscotch, malt, and/or nuts

Volume: quiet–moderate

Tip: Use it to enhance the creaminess of smoothies.

Flavor Affinities

maca + almond butter + cacao

maca + almond butter + coconut milk + dates + vanilla

Dishes

I Am Free: Chia Seed Porridge with Hempseed Milk, Lucuma, Maca, Cinnamon, Maple Syrup, Goji Berries, and Seasonal Fruit

—Café Gratitude (Los Angeles)

Malted Chai Smoothie: Banana.Dates. Coconut Meat. Coconut Water. Cinnamon. Maca.

—M.A.K.E. (Santa Monica, CA)

Maca Magic Smoothie: Mango, Strawberry, Pineapple, Banana, Raspberry, Orange Juice, Coconut Milk, Maca Powder, Goji Berry

—Pomegranate Café (Phoenix)

 

MACARONI AND CHEESE

Tip: Many of the best vegan versions of mac-n-cheese incorporate whole-grain macaroni and some combination of chili pepper flakes + cornstarch + Dijon mustard + garlic + milk (e.g., soy) + nutritional yeast + oil (e.g., canola, soy) + paprika + parsley + salt (e.g., sea) + tamari + tofu

Dishes

Macaroni and Cheese

(Its creaminess is said to come from soy milk and tofu.)

—Woodland’s Vegan Bistro, fka Everlasting Life Café (Washington, DC)

Mac & Shews

(calls for cashews + garlic + nutritional yeast + olive oil + sauerkraut)

—Isa Chandra Moskowitz

Spicy Cajun Mac ’n’ Yease, Our Famous Vegan Mac and Cheese

(Its secret recipe is said to include chili pepper flakes + mustard + nutritional yeast + soy milk.)

—Plum Bistro (Seattle)

 

images  MACE

Flavor: bitter/sweet; aromatic; with pungent notes of cloves, nutmeg, and/or pine

Volume: moderate–loud (and quieter than nutmeg, though similar in flavor)

What it is: spice

Botanical relative: nutmeg

apples

baked goods, e.g., cakes, cookies, muffins, pies

carrots

cheese and cheese dishes, esp. creamy

cherries

chocolate

chocolate, hot

chutneys

cream and milk

custards

doughnuts

drinks, e.g., eggnog, hot chocolate

fruits, e.g., dried, fresh

hot dogs, vegetarian

ice cream

lemon

maple syrup

nutmeg

nuts

oats

orange

puddings

pumpkin

purees, vegetable

raisins

rhubarb

salads, fruit

sauces, e.g., béchamel, cream, onion

soups, e.g., clear, cream

stuffings

sugar

sweet potatoes

vanilla

vegetables

walnuts

wine, e.g., mulled wine

 

MÂCHE (see LETTUCE, LAMB’S)

 

 

MANDARINS (see ORANGES, MANDARIN)

 

images  MANGOES

Season: spring–summer

Flavor: sweet/slightly sour, with notes of honey, peaches, and/or pineapple, and an extremely juicy texture

Volume: moderate–loud

Who says they’re healthful: The Center for Science in the Public Interest’s Nutrition Action includes mangoes on its “10 Best Foods” list.

Nutritional profile: 94% carbs / 3% protein / 3% fats

Calories: 110 per 1-cup serving (raw, sliced)

Protein: 1 gram

Techniques: grill, raw, roast

Botanical relatives: cashews, pistachios

almonds and almond milk

arugula

avocados

bananas

basil, Thai

BEANS, e.g., BLACK, cannellini

bell peppers, e.g., red, yellow

berries, e.g., blackberries, blueberries, raspberries, strawberries

beverages, e.g., juices, lassis, punch

cardamom

cashews

cayenne

chayote

chickpeas

CHILES, e.g., green, habanero, jalapeño, red, serrano, Thai

chocolate, white

chutneys

CILANTRO

cinnamon

cloves

COCONUT and coconut milk

coriander

corn

coulis

cream, crème fraîche, and ice cream

crepes

cucumbers

cumin

curry

desserts, e.g., cheesecake

endive

fennel

fenugreek

garlic

GINGER

ginkgo nuts

honey

Indian cuisine

jícama

Kaffir lime leaf

kiwi

lassis

lavender

lemon, e.g., juice

lettuce

*LIME, e.g., juice

lime, Kaffir

liqueurs, e.g., Kirsch

melon, e.g., cantaloupe

Mexican cuisine

milk, coconut

MINT

nectarines

noodles, Asian, e.g., soba

nuts

oil, e.g., canola, olive, peanut

ONIONS, e.g., green, RED, sweet

oranges and mandarin oranges, e.g., juice, zest

oregano

PAPAYAS

paprika, smoked

parsley

passion fruit

peaches

peanuts

pears

pineapple

plantains

puddings

quinoa

rhubarb

rice, e.g., sticky

rum

salads, e.g., Asian noodle, fruit, green, pasta, rice

SALSAS

salt

sauces

scallions

seaweed

sesame, e.g., oil, seeds

shallots

smoothies

snow peas

SORBETS

soups, e.g., fruit

spinach

star anise

stir-fries

sugar, e.g., brown, palm

sweet potatoes

tamarind

tapioca

tarts

tempeh

tofu

tomatillos

tomatoes

tortillas, e.g., whole-grain

tropical fruits

vanilla

vinegar, e.g., champagne, red wine, rice wine

wine, e.g., sparkling, sweet, and/or white (e.g., Sauternes)

yogurt

yuzu

Flavor Affinities

MANGO + avocado + CHILES + CILANTRO + LIME + ONIONS + vinegar

mango + bananas + honey + lime juice + orange juice

mango + beans + cilantro + lime + onions

mango + bell peppers + cilantro + lime

mango + blackberries + lime

mango + brown sugar + cinnamon + orange

mango + cardamom + honey + yogurt

mango + cashew + mint

MANGO + CHILES + CILANTRO + LIME + RED ONIONS

mango + chiles + cumin + garlic + lime + orange

mango + coconut + tapioca + white chocolate

mango + coconut + yogurt

mango + coconut milk + sticky rice

mango + fennel + lemon + rum

mango + honey + mint + yogurt

mango + honey + orange juice + yogurt

mango + kiwi + papaya + pineapple

mango + lime + mint + orange + papaya

mango + lime + mint + red onions

mango + lime + raspberries + vanilla

mango + peach + raspberries

Dishes

Warm Apple Mango Cobbler with Cinnamon Oat Streusel and Fat-Free Vanilla Ice Cream

—The Golden Door Spa Café at The Boulders (Scottsdale, AZ)

 

MANGOES, GREEN (see also MANGOES)

What they are: unripe mangoes

Caribbean cuisines

chiles, e.g., green, Thai

chutneys

cilantro

curries

Filipino cuisine

ginger

lime, e.g., juice

mint

oil, e.g., sesame

onions, e.g., red

pickles

relishes

salads

sesame seeds

sugar, e.g., brown, palm

Thai cuisine

 

Maple syrup isn’t technically raw, but it’s the least-processed widely available sweetener, and it’s vegan.”

—AMI BEACH, G-ZEN (BRANFORD, CT)

“I especially love using maple syrup as a sweetener in autumn and winter. During other times of year, I’ll use agave nectar, barley malt syrup, or organic cane.”

—KATE JACOBY, VEDGE (PHILADELPHIA)

Dishes

Homestyle Quinoa Pancakes, Seasonal Fruit, Strawberry Butter, Gingered Maple Syrup

—Candle 79 (New York City)

Jalapeño Hush Puppies served with Maple Butter

—Dirt Candy (New York City)

Maple Harvest Salad: Arugula, Raisins, Walnuts, and Green Apple, served with Creamy Maple Vinaigrette

—Root (Allston, MA)

 

images  MARJORAM

Season: summer–winter

Flavor: bitter/sweet; aromatic, with floral, pungent, and/or spicy notes of basil, oregano, and/or thyme

Volume: quiet (regular)–moderate/loud (wild)

What it is: herb

Tip: Add marjoram at the end of the cooking process.

Botanical relatives: basil, lavender, mint, oregano (which is louder), rosemary, sage, summer savory, thyme

Possible substitute: oregano

Flavor Affinities

marjoram + capers + green olives + parsley + pine nuts

marjoram + chiles + orange

 

Flavor Affinities

mascarpone + apples + cinnamon + maple syrup

mascarpone + apricots + pistachios

mascarpone + balsamic vinegar + cinnamon + maple syrup + pears

mascarpone + balsamic vinegar + strawberries

mascarpone + basil or sage + pasta + walnuts

mascarpone + beets + poppy seeds

mascarpone + chocolate + coffee + orange

mascarpone + cinnamon + Marsala + orange + pears + sugar

mascarpone + figs + ginger

mascarpone + Gorgonzola + polenta

mascarpone + mushrooms + pasta

mascarpone + oranges + vanilla

mascarpone + polenta + rosemary + walnuts

 

MATCHA POWDER

Flavor: bitter, with earthy vegetal notes

Volume: quiet–moderate

What it is: green tea powder

Nutritional profile: 67% protein, 33% carbs

Calories: 85 per ounce

Protein: 14 grams

agave nectar

avocado

baked goods, e.g., cakes, cookies

bananas

berries

beverages, e.g., lattes

cocoa

coconut water

desserts, e.g., puddings

ginger

honey

ice creams

mangoes

milk, nondairy, e.g., almond, rice, soy

pineapple

quinoa

salad dressings

smoothies

TEAS

Flavor Affinities

matcha powder + agave nectar + avocado + banana + (nondairy) milk

 

images  MAYONNAISE

Tips: For a vegan (eggless) substitute, check out the longtime gold-standard Vegenaise vegan mayonnaise—or make your own. Wildwood also makes a zesty vegan garlic aioli (garlic “mayonnaise”).

beans, e.g., green

bell peppers, e.g., red, roasted

capers

carrots

chiles, e.g., chipotle, green, red

corn, e.g., on the cob

eggs, e.g., hard-boiled

garlic

herbs, e.g., basil, chervil, chives, cilantro, dill, marjoram, parsley, tarragon

lemon

mustard, e.g., Dijon

orange, e.g., juice, zest

pickles

potatoes

salad dressings, e.g., blue cheese, ranch

salads, e.g., egg, pasta, potato, vegetable

sandwiches

sauces

scallions

slaws, e.g., cole

spices, e.g., cayenne, saffron

veggie burgers

 

MEDITERRANEAN CUISINES (see GREEK CUISINE, ITALIAN CUISINE—SOUTHERN, etc.)

“So much Mediterranean food is inherently vegan, which is why we refer to Crossroads as a Mediterranean restaurant. We don’t use the word ‘vegan’ here. This way, the food is not seen as foreign to people who eat here. At Crossroads, people are not eating tofu or tempeh or seitan, whose textures are foreign to most people. While I like tempeh, you are not going to convince someone to go vegan if that is the first thing they try. People need familiar food that is transitional, and that will depend on the person. Our spanakopita or spiced chickpeas are dishes people are already acquainted with, and our risotto is the least threatening dish on the menu and something that people have already had.”

—TAL RONNEN, CROSSROADS (LOS ANGELES)

 

 

MELON, BITTER

Flavor: BITTER/sour, with notes of quinine

Volume: loud

What it is: a fruit that is picked green (unripe) and eaten as a vegetable

Techniques: blanch, boil (sliced, 3–5 minutes), grill, pickle, steam, stir-fry, stuff

Tips: To reduce bitterness, rub raw slices with salt and let sit for several minutes, or blanch slices in boiling water 2–3 minutes. Also, there’s no need to peel—the bumpy skin is edible.

Botanical relative: squash

Possible substitute: winter melon

Asian cuisines

beans, e.g., black, fermented black

Cambodian cuisine

chiles, e.g., green, jalapeño, red

Chinese cuisine, esp. Cantonese

cilantro

coconut and coconut milk

coriander

cumin

curries

East Indian cuisine

eggs

garlic

ginger

ice creams

Indian cuisine

kamut

lemon

lime

miso

oil, e.g., canola, olive, peanut, sesame

onions

pickles

pomegranate seeds

poppy seeds

potatoes

rice

salt, e.g., sea

sesame, e.g., oil, paste, seeds

sorbets

soups

soy sauce

squash, e.g., kabocha

stir-fries

stuffed bitter melon

sugar, e.g., brown

tofu, e.g., firm

tomatoes

turmeric

vinegar, e.g., cider

yogurt

Flavor Affinities

bitter melon + garlic + soy sauce

bitter melon + honey + lemon

bitter melon + miso + tofu

 

Dishes

Cantaloupe Sorbet with Anise Shortbread and Jasmine Consommé

—Charlie Trotter’s (Chicago)

Chilled Melon Soup: Cantaloupe and Dried Chili Pepper, Pickled Carrots, Fried Shallots, and Mint-Chive Oil

—Num Pang (New York City)

 

images  MELON, HONEYDEW

Season: summer

Flavor: sweet, with a juicy texture

Volume: quiet–moderate

Nutritional profile: 92% carbs / 5% protein / 3% fats

Calories: 65 per 1-cup serving (raw, balls)

Protein: 1 gram

arugula

basil

BERRIES, e.g., blackberries, blueberries, raspberries

beverages, e.g., fruit punch

cayenne

cinnamon

cucumbers

GINGER

honey

kiwi

LEMON, e.g., juice, zest

lemongrass

LIME

maple syrup

melon, other, e.g., cantaloupe

MINT

papaya

pepper, e.g., white

pomegranates

salads, e.g., fruit

salsas

salt

skewers, fruit

smoothies

sorbets

SOUPS, FRUIT

sugar

tofu

vanilla

vinegar, esp. fruit, e.g., apple, raspberry

wine, e.g., sparkling, sweet

yogurt

Flavor Affinities

honeydew melon + cayenne + lemon

honeydew melon + ginger + lemon + pomegranate

HONEYDEW MELON (+ HONEY) + LEMON and/or LIME + MINT

 

 

MESCLUN (see GREENS, MESCLUN)

 

MEXICAN CUISINE

achiote

avocados

bay leaf

BEANS, esp. black, pinto, red

burritos

canela

chalupas

chayote

cheese, e.g., cotija

chilaquiles

*CHILES, e.g., dried, fresh; and chili powder

chocolate, Mexican

cilantro

cinnamon

citrus, e.g., lemon, lime, (bitter) orange

cloves

CORN

crema

cumin

enchiladas

epazote

fried dishes

garlic

gorditas

guacamole

lemon

lime, e.g., juice

masa harina, i.e., ground corn dough

milk, condensed

nuts

onions, e.g., white

orange, esp. bitter

oregano, Mexican

potatoes

quesadillas

refried beans

rice

saffron

salsas

scallions

seeds, e.g., pumpkin, sesame

soups, e.g., tortilla

SQUASH

tacos

tamales

tomatoes

tortillas, e.g., corn

tostadas

vanilla

vegetables

vinegar

wheat

“I’ve made an ice cream with all the ingredients of a mole sauce, such as the spices—but minus the garlic and onions. I’ve also made Mexican chocolate cake with chipotle in the batter, served with a vanilla and coconut sauce.”

—ANGEL RAMOS, CANDLE 79 (NEW YORK CITY)

 

MIDDLE EASTERN CUISINES

beans, e.g., fava

bulgur wheat

cheese, e.g., feta

chickpeas

cinnamon

cloves

coriander

couscous

cumin

dill

eggplant

falafel

fruits, e.g., dried

garlic

ginger

honey

hummus

lemon, e.g., fresh, preserved

lentils

mint, e.g., dried

nutmeg

nuts, e.g., almonds, pine nuts, pistachios, walnuts

oil, olive

olives

onions

oregano

parsley

pepper, black

pita, e.g., whole-wheat

pomegranates

poppy seeds

raisins

ras el hanout

rice

roasted dishes

sesame, e.g., oil, sauce (tahini), seeds

sumac

tomatoes

yogurt

za’atar

Flavor Affinities

bulgur + mint + onions + parsley

chickpeas + garlic + lemon + tahini

eggplant + garlic + parsley + tahini

 

MILK, e.g., images  WHOLE or images  NONFAT—IN GENERAL

Tip: Vegans can use nondairy milks (e.g., almond, hempseed, rice, soy, etc.) when baking or making French toast, with breakfast cereals, and in smoothies.

image

 

Dishes

Rodrigo’s Rocket Fuel Smoothie: Almond Butter, Almond Milk, Raw Cacao, Banana, Chocolate Sunwarrior Protein, Cinnamon

—Pomegranate Café (Phoenix)

Make Your Own Almond Milk

Diane Forley of Flourish Baking Company says it’s easy to make your own delicious almond milk by

  1. soaking raw almonds overnight
  2. draining them
  3. combining soaked almonds with fresh water in a 1:3 ratio in a Vitamix
  4. straining the milk through a fine-mesh nut milk bag
  5. adding cinnamon or nutmeg (optional)

You can also cook down almond milk, adding a pinch of pectin, then chill, to create a yogurt-like almond cream to enjoy on its own or with berries, granola, etc.

 

images  MILK, COCONUT

Flavor: sweet, with notes of coconut, and a rich, creamy texture

Volume: moderate–loud

What it is: liquid from grated coconut

Lactose-free: yes

Nutritional profile: 91% fat / 5% carbs / 4% protein

Calories: 445 per 1-cup serving (canned)

Protein: 5 grams

Tips: Look for organic coconut milk in cartons (versus cans). The health-conscious can opt for light (both lighter in flavor and lower in fat) or unsweetened coconut milk. Condensed coconut milk can be used for desserts, sauces, and soups.

Flavor Affinities

coconut milk + bananas + pearl tapioca + sesame seeds

coconut milk + carrots + lemongrass

coconut milk + cauliflower + potatoes + spinach

coconut milk + espresso + vanilla

coconut milk + galangal + lemongrass + noodles

coconut milk + Kaffir lime + peanuts

coconut milk + lime + peas + rice

coconut milk + lime + tapioca

coconut milk + sweet potatoes + wild rice

“We make our own coconut milk–based ice creams and use Irish moss to stabilize them. We’ll even top them with ‘whipped cream’ from a siphon, which is also coconut milk-based. Coconut Bliss is a fantastic Oregon-based dairy-free ‘ice cream’ made with coconut milk and agave, which was recently sold to a dairy.”

—AARON ADAMS, PORTOBELLO (PORTLAND, OR)

“We have a new vegan truck for selling burgers, and desserts like our Vegan Fat Boys, which are vegan brownies filled with coconut milk–based Coconut Bliss ice cream. The texture is very rich and creamy, not icy, and its flavor is not overpowering.”

—MAKINI HOWELL, PLUM BISTRO (SEATTLE)

“We make our ice cream from a blend of coconut milk and soy milk, which prevents the flavor, texture, and color of either milk from interfering with that of the ice cream. The result is a very thick and creamy ice cream.… Our roast pumpkin ice cream is accented mostly by cinnamon, but also allspice, cloves, and nutmeg.… Coconut milk has such a high fat content that all you need to do is add a bit of powdered sugar and run it through a charged canister to have nice, thick whipped cream.”

—KATE JACOBY, VEDGE (PHILADELPHIA)

“Our signature ice cream starts with coconut cream, organic unrefined cane sugar, agave, and a trace amount of plant-based stabilizers (guar and xanthan gum), and works well with exotic spicy and savory flavors, such as toasted pine nut and fennel, or Mexican chocolate with cayenne and cinnamon, or Thai chili peanut. Our nut-based flavors are made with an almond and cashew blend, and work best with more traditional flavors like caramel, chocolate, cookie, peanut butter, and vanilla. Our soft ice cream flavors are made with a soy base.”

—DEENA JALAL, FOMU AND ROOT (ALLSTON, MA)

Coconut milk is fantastic—it’s saved our lives in being able to serve our vegan guests. We use it a lot in vegan desserts, like our coconut milk panna cotta. The mouthfeel is not the same as when making a dairy panna cotta, so you’ve got to use a bit more vanilla and sugar. And we’ve made mousses by putting a mixture of coconut milk and agar-agar through an iSi whipped cream dispenser.”

—MARK LEVY, THE POINT (SARANAC LAKE, NY)

 

MILK, GOAT

Flavor: salty/sour/ sweet

Volume: moderate–loud

Tips: Can be easier to digest given its lower level of lactose (4.1%) than cow’s milk (4.7%) and the absence of cow’s milk’s main problem-causing protein (alpha SI casein). Sweeten and reduce over medium heat to make cajeta (a thick Mexican caramel sauce).

apples

butter

carrots and carrot juice

cheese

chocolate

cinnamon

confections, e.g., caramels, fudge

desserts, creamy, e.g., puddings

eggplant

eggs, e.g., quiches

honey

ice cream and gelato

pancakes

potatoes

smoothies

soups

sugar

vanilla

yogurt

 

“We tested lots of different nondairy milks to come up with our recipe for a latte with the creamy richness of cow’s milk, which is half hemp milk and half coconut milk, plus agave nectar as a sweetener, added to two shots of espresso. Either will be good on its own, but the fat from the coconut milk adds great richness, while the hemp milk adds a more understated nutty flavor, and together they foam up really well.”

—CASSIE AND MARLENE TOLMAN, POMEGRANATE CAFÉ (PHOENIX)

 

images  MILK, RICE

Flavor: sweet, with notes of rice, and a light-bodied texture

Volume: moderate

Lactose-free: yes

Tip: Given its sweetness, it works better in desserts than in savory dishes.

Brand: Rice Dream

baked goods, e.g., breads, cakes, cookies, muffins

bananas

cinnamon

desserts, e.g., creamy (e.g., custards)

horchata

“ice cream”

Latin American cuisine

Mexican cuisine

pastas, e.g., mac-n-cheese

puddings, e.g., banana, rice

raisins

sauces, e.g., béchamel

smoothies

sugar

vanilla

Rice milk makes great custards and sauces. I’m using it to develop a vegan béchamel sauce.”

—DIANE FORLEY, FLOURISH BAKING COMPANY (SCARSDALE, NY)

 

images  MILK, SOY

Flavor: vegetal notes, and full-bodied

Volume: loud

Lactose-free: yes

Nutritional profile: 54% carbs / 27% fat / 19% protein

Calories: 165 per 12-ounce serving

Protein: 8 grams

Tips: Foams well, e.g., for cappuccinos and lattes. Consider vanilla-flavored soy milk for use in desserts and sweet beverages.

Brand: Silk

baked goods, e.g., breads, cakes, cookies, muffins

banana

chocolate

coffee and coffee drinks, e.g., cappuccinos, lattes

desserts, creamy (e.g., panna cotta)

gelatin

honey

lime, e.g., Kaffir

mangoes

mashed potatoes

puddings

raspberries

salad dressings

sauces, e.g., creamy, pasta

smoothies

tofu, e.g., silken

vanilla

Dishes

Vanilla–Kaffir Lime–Soy Milk Panna Cotta with Mango and Raspberries

—Charlie Trotter’s Restaurant C at OneandOnly Palmilla (Los Cabos, Mexico)

 

images  MILLET

[MILL-let]

Flavor: bitter/sweet, with notes of corn and/or nuts; chewy, crunchy, and/or fluffy in texture

Volume: quiet–moderate (toasted)

What it is: whole grain

Gluten-free: yes

Nutritional profile: 82% carbs / 11% protein / 7% fat

Calories: 210 per 1-cup serving (cooked)

Protein: 6 grams

Techniques: dry roast, marinate, pressure-cook, simmer, steam, toast

Timing: Simmer about 15–20 minutes (chewier) to 30–40 minutes (softer), until desired tenderness is reached.

Ratio: 1: 2–3 (1 cup millet to 2–3 cups liquid. Use more liquid for softer texture; also, given its flavor neutrality, use vegetable stock instead of water.)

Tips: Toast before steaming to bring out its flavor. Marinate, or cook risotto-style: Sauté millet before adding liquid to simmer slowly.

Possible substitute: couscous

(NORTH) AFRICAN CUISINES

almonds

amaranth

apples, e.g., apple juice, applesauce

apricots, e.g., dried

arugula

Asian cuisines

avocado

baked goods, e.g., breads, muffins

basil

batters, e.g., pancake, waffle

bay leaf

BEANS, e.g., adzuki, black, broad, green, white

beets

bell peppers, red

berries, e.g., blueberries

“bowls”

broccoli

burdock

butter

cabbage

cardamom

CARROTS

casseroles

CAULIFLOWER

celery and celery root

CEREALS, HOT BREAKFAST

chard

cheese, e.g., cheddar, Jack, Parmesan, pecorino, ricotta

cherries

chervil

chickpeas

chiles, e.g., Anaheim, jalapeño chili pepper sauce and chili powder

chives

cilantro

cinnamon

coconut

coriander

CORN

“couscous”

croquettes

CUMIN

currants

curry powder, curry spices, and curries

dals

dates

dill

eggplant

fennel

GARLIC

ginger

grains, other, e.g., bulgur, corn, oats, quinoa, rice

granola

greens, e.g., bitter, mesclun, salad

honey

(East) Indian cuisine

leeks

lemon, e.g., juice, zest

lentils

lime, e.g., juice

mango

maple syrup

milk, e.g., almond, other nondairy

millet cakes

mint

muffins

mushrooms, e.g., porcini, portobello

nuts, e.g., hazelnuts, peanuts, pecans, pine nuts

oats

OILS, e.g., canola, corn, olive, peanut, vegetable

ONIONS, e.g., green, spring, yellow

orange

oregano

PARSLEY

parsnips

peaches

peas

pepper, black

PILAFS

“POLENTAS”

porridges

puddings

pumpkin

raisins, e.g., golden

raspberries

rice, e.g., brown, long-grain

“risottos”

rosemary

saffron

salads, e.g., fruit, green

salt, sea

sandwiches, e.g., “sloppy Joes”

scallions

seeds, e.g., poppy, pumpkin, sesame, sunflower

sesame, e.g., oil, seeds

shallots

SOUPS

sour cream

soy sauce

SQUASH, e.g., acorn, butternut, kabocha, summer

stews (e.g., to thicken)

stir-fries

STOCK, e.g., corn, vegetable

stuffed mushrooms or vegetables, e.g., artichokes or onions

stuffings

sweet potatoes

“tabbouleh”

tamari

tarragon

tempeh

thyme

tomatillos

tomatoes, sun-dried

TOMATOES, tomato paste, and tomato sauce

turmeric

turnips

vanilla

vegetables, e.g., baby, sautéed

veggie burgers

vinegar, e.g., balsamic, red wine, umeboshi

walnuts

watercress

yams

yogurt

zucchini

Flavor Affinities

millet + agave nectar + almond milk + coconut milk

millet + almonds + cardamom + cinnamon + cumin + turmeric

millet + almonds + orange

millet + apricots + raisins

millet + black beans + sweet potatoes

millet + blueberries + fennel + hazelnuts

millet + cauliflower + “mashed potatoes”

millet + chickpeas + garlic + greens

millet + cilantro + lime + tomatoes

millet + dates + nuts

millet + garlic + mint + parsley

millet + ginger + winter squash

millet + honey + milk

millet + honey + nuts

millet + lemon + watercress

millet + orange + pecans

millet + peanuts + sweet potatoes

“When I opened Verbena [in 1994], I would go to Kalustyan’s [the famed Manhattan spice and specialty food store] and buy unusual grains to serve. Millet was never used at other restaurants at the time. In Verbena’s review in The New York Times, it was referred to as ‘bird seed.’ So you see how much times have changed!”

—DIANE FORLEY, FLOURISH BAKING COMPANY (SCARSDALE, NY)

 

image MINT (typically SPEARMINT)

Flavor: slightly sweet; aromatic, with pungent notes of herbs and/or lemon

Volume: quiet/moderate (e.g., spearmint)–loud (e.g., peppermint)

Tips: Recipes that call for mint typically mean spearmint (versus, e.g., peppermint). Mint suggests “false coolness,” and adds a note of freshness to dishes.

Botanical relatives: basil, lavender, marjoram, oregano, rosemary, sage, summer savory, thyme

almonds

apples

artichokes

Asian cuisines

barley

basil

beans, e.g., black, fresh, green, white

bell peppers

berries, e.g., blueberries, raspberries, strawberries

BEVERAGES, e.g., juleps, lassis, lemonades, mojitos, teas

bourbon

Brussels sprouts

cabbage

cardamom

CARROTS

cashews

cheese, e.g., chèvre, feta, ricotta

chickpeas

CHILES, e.g., green, jalapeño

chives

CHOCOLATE, e.g., dark

chutneys

cilantro

citrus

coconut and coconut milk

coriander

couscous, e.g., Israeli, whole-wheat

cream

*CUCUMBERS

curries

desserts

dill

eggplant

endive

falafel

figs

frisée

fruits, e.g., dried, fresh

garlic

gin

ginger

grains

grapefruit

grapes and grape juice

ice cream

Indian cuisine

jícama

kale

LEMON

lemongrass

lentils

lettuce

LIME

lovage

lychees

mangoes, e.g., green

Mediterranean cuisines

MELON, e.g., honeydew

Middle Eastern cuisine

millet

mojitos

Moroccan cuisine

mushrooms, portobello

noodles, Asian, esp. rice

olives

onions

oranges and orange juice

papaya, e.g., green

parsley

pasta

peaches

pears

PEAS

“pestos”

pilafs

pineapple

pine nuts

pistachios

potatoes, e.g., new

quinoa

raitas

RICE

risotto

rum

SALADS, e.g., bean, fruit, grain, green, Thai, vegetable

salsas

sauces, e.g., “chimichurri”

scallions

shallots

shoots, bean

soups

Southeast Asian cuisines

spinach

squash, e.g., acorn, butternut, yellow

stuffings, e.g., grain

sugar, e.g., brown

TABBOULEH

TEAS, e.g., green, mint, Moroccan

TOMATOES

vegetables, e.g., marinated

Vietnamese cuisine

vinegar, e.g., balsamic, white wine

watermelon

wheat berries

YOGURT

zucchini

Flavor Affinities

mint + artichokes + chiles

mint + balsamic vinegar + berries

mint + balsamic vinegar + peaches + ricotta

mint + barley + carrots + peas mint + basil + cilantro + chiles + garlic + lime

mint + bell peppers + chiles + garlic + papaya + pineapple

mint + cardamom + ginger + lemon

mint + chiles + cilantro + garlic + olive oil + vinegar

mint + chiles + lemon + shallots + sugar

mint + citrus + zucchini

MINT + CUCUMBER + YOGURT

mint + feta cheese + lentils

mint + feta cheese + peas + rice

mint + Israeli couscous + lime

mint + lemon + strawberries

mint + lime + lychees

mint + olive oil + white beans + white wine vinegar

 

 

MISO—IN GENERAL (or MIXED MISOS), ORGANIC

[MEE-soh]

Flavor: sweet (light miso) and/or salty (dark miso), with earthy/savory notes of cocoa, coffee, malt, nuts, and/or yeast

Volume: quiet (lighter miso, e.g., white, yellow)–loud (darker miso, e.g., red, brown)

What it is: Japanese fermented soybean paste, available in countless different varieties in Japan—as many varieties as there are types of cheese available in the U.S.!

Nutritional profile: 55% carbs / 25% fat / 20% protein

Calories: 275 per ½-cup serving

Protein: 16 grams

Techniques: To protect miso’s nutritional value, never bring to a boil.

Tips: Mix light and dark misos for more complex flavors. Add miso to mashed or pureed vegetables and use as a sauce. Also, customize miso soup by the season; for example, in spring/summer, use light miso + basil + green beans, and in autumn/winter, use dark miso + Brussels sprouts + garlic.

asparagus

avocado

beans, e.g., adzuki, black, green, pinto

bok choy

Brussels sprouts

burdock

cabbage, e.g., Chinese, napa

CARROTS

chives

cilantro

daikon

dashi

dips, e.g., bean

dressings

dulse

edamame

eggplant

garlic

GINGER

glazes

gravies

greens, e.g., Asian, dandelion

hoisin

honey

JAPANESE CUISINE

kombu

leeks

lemon, e.g., juice, zest

lemongrass

lotus root

macrobiotic cuisine

maple syrup

*MARINADES

melon, bitter

millet

mint

mirin

MUSHROOMS, e.g., enoki, SHIITAKE, wild

mustard

NOODLES, ASIAN, e.g., ramen, rice, SOBA, udon

nori

oil, e.g., canola, sesame

onions, e.g., green, spring, white, yellow

orange, e.g., juice, zest

parsley

parsnips

peas

“pestos”

potatoes

pumpkin

radishes

rice, e.g., brown

sake

SALAD DRESSINGS

SAUCES

SCALLIONS

sea vegetables

sesame, e.g., oil, seeds

shiso

snow peas

SOUPS, e.g., kale, miso

soybeans

soy sauce

spinach

spreads

sprouts, bean

squash, e.g., kabocha

stews

stir-fries

stock, vegetable

sweet potatoes

tahini

tamari

TOFU

tomatoes

turnips

vegetables

vinegar, e.g., rice wine

WAKAME

walnuts

watercress

Flavor Affinities

miso + carrots + kale + kombu + shiitake mushrooms

miso + carrots + spinach + tofu

miso + ginger + lemongrass + soup

miso + ginger + scallions

miso + ginger + tofu

miso + kombu + onions + shiitake mushrooms

miso + mushrooms + scallions

miso + scallions + tofu + wakame

miso + sesame + tofu + watercress

miso + shiitake mushrooms + shiso

miso + shiitake mushrooms + watercress

miso + tofu + udon noodles

Dishes

Miso Tortellini with Red Cabbage, Turnip Confit, and Ponzu

—Charlie Trotter’s (Chicago)

 

MISO, BROWN

Season: autumn–winter

Flavor: SALTY/umami, and rich in texture

Volume: loud

basil

beer

garlic

GRAVIES

mushrooms

oil, grapeseed

onions

soups

tamari

thyme

tofu

tomato paste

wine, dry, e.g., sherry

 

MISO, DARK

Season: autumn–winter

Flavor: SALTY

Volume: moderate–loud

What it is: miso that has been fermented for as long as three years

beans, e.g., black, pinto

brown rice syrup

burdock

carrots

casseroles

chili, vegetarian

daikon

ginger

gravies

lentils

marinades

mirin

mustard

nuts

onions

parsley

sauces, e.g., red wine, tomato

sesame paste

SOUPS, e.g., carrot, dark or mixed miso, vegetable (esp. winter)

squash, winter

stews, e.g., vegetable

stir-fries, e.g., with root vegetables

tofu

tomatoes and tomato sauce

vegetables, root

vinegar, rice

 

 

MISO, RED

Flavor: salty/sweet, with a rich texture

Volume: moderate–loud

What it is: soybeans fermented (longer than for light miso, perhaps one to three years) with mostly barley, until reddish-brown

basil

beer

daikon

dashi

eggplant

garlic

ginger

glazes

gravies

heartier dishes

leeks

lemon, e.g., zest

marinades

mirin

mushrooms, e.g., shiitake

oil, grapeseed

onions

parsley

sake

scallions

sea vegetables, e.g., wakame

sesame, e.g., oil, paste, seeds

SOUPS, e.g., richer

sprouts, bean

stews

tahini

tamari

thyme

tofu

tomato paste

wine, dry, e.g., sherry

yuzu

 

MISO, WHITE (see also MISO, LIGHT)

Flavor: salty / slightly sweet

Volume: quieter

What it is: soybeans fermented with rice

almonds and almond butter

carrots

dips, e.g., bean

marinades

mushrooms, e.g., portobello

mustard

oil, e.g., peanut, sesame

peanuts and peanut butter

potatoes, e.g., mashed

SALAD DRESSINGS

SAUCES, light-colored

scrambles, i.e., tofu

sesame, e.g., seeds

SOUPS, e.g., miso

stir-fries

tahini

tofu

vinegar, e.g., brown rice, rice

Flavor Affinities

white miso + carrots + sesame seeds

white miso + mustard + oil + tahini + vinegar

 

MISO, YELLOW (see also MISO, LIGHT)

Flavor: earthy notes

Volume: quieter

What it is: soybeans fermented with mostly barley

glazes

marinades

salad dressings

sauces

SOUPS, miso

tofu

 

MIZUNA (see GREENS, MIZUNA)

 

 

MOROCCAN CUISINE

almonds

apricots

bell peppers, e.g., green

carrots

cayenne

chermoula

chickpeas

chiles

cilantro

cinnamon

coriander

couscous

cucumbers

cumin

dates

eggs

figs

fruits

garlic

ginger

harissa

honey

lemons, e.g., fresh, preserved

nuts

oil, olive

olives

onions

oranges

paprika

parsley

pepper

pine nuts

pistachios

raisins

ras el hanout

saffron

salads, e.g., carrot

sesame seeds

stews, aka tagines, vegetarian, e.g., carrot, chickpea, root vegetable

sugar

tomatoes

turmeric

 

MUNG BEANS (see BEANS, MUNG)

 

image MUSHROOMS—IN GENERAL

Flavor: earthy and/or woodsy notes, and a meaty texture

Volume: quiet–moderate

What they are: fungi

Techniques: bake (6–8 minutes), broil, deep-fry, grill, pan-roast, raw (e.g., in salads), roast, sauté (3–4 minutes), smoke, steam (5 minutes), stew, stuff

Tips: Generally serve cooked. Opt for Asian mushrooms (e.g., maitake, shiitake), or wild mushrooms (e.g., chanterelle, morel), over common mushrooms (e.g., button, white) for maximum health benefits.

almonds

artichokes

arugula

asparagus

avocado

bamboo shoots

BARLEY

basil

bay leaf

beans, e.g., navy, pinto, white

bok choy

BREAD CRUMBS, e.g., panko, whole-wheat

bread pudding, savory

Brussels sprouts

butter

cardamom

carrots

casseroles

cayenne

celery

chard

CHEESE, e.g., blue, feta, goat, Gruyère, Parmesan, ricotta salata

chervil

chickpeas

chiles

CHIVES

cilantro

cinnamon

coriander

cornmeal, e.g., to crust

cornstarch

cream

crepes

cumin

Czech cuisine

daikon

dashi

dill

eggplant

EGGS, e.g., fried, frittatas, omelets, quiches

endives

farro

fennel

*GARLIC

ginger

grains, whole

gravies, e.g., mushroom

honey

kale

leeks

LEMON, e.g., juice, zest

lemongrass

MARJORAM

mascarpone

“meatloaf,” i.e., loaf made with mushrooms and nuts

milk, e.g., coconut

millet

mint

mirin

mizuna

mushrooms, other

mustard

noodles, e.g., egg, rice, udon

nutmeg

NUTS, e.g., almonds, hazelnuts, pecans, pine nuts, pistachios, walnuts

OIL, e.g., OLIVE, peanut, sesame, truffle (e.g., white), walnut

olives

ONIONS, e.g., green, white

orange

oregano

paprika

PARSLEY

PASTAS, e.g., pappardelle, ravioli

pâtés

peas

PEPPER, e.g., black, white

phyllo dough, whole-wheat

PIZZA

POLENTA

POTATOES

quinoa

rice and wild rice

risottos

ROSEMARY

sage

salads

salt, e.g., kosher, sea

sauces, e.g., mushroom

sauerkraut

savory

scallions

sesame, e.g., oil (esp. toasted), seeds

SHALLOTS

sorrel

SOUPS, e.g., mushroom, vegetable

sour cream

spinach

sprouts, e.g., sunflower

squash, e.g., butternut, winter

STOCK, e.g., mushroom, vegetable

stuffed mushrooms

stuffings

tahini

TARRAGON

THYME

tofu

tomatoes

turmeric

veggie burgers

vinegar, e.g., balsamic, sherry, white wine

watercress

WINE, e.g., dry red or white, dry sherry, Madeira

won tons

yogurt

zucchini

Flavor Affinities

mushrooms + arugula + pasta + peas

mushrooms + blue cheese + herbs + onions + walnuts

mushrooms + breadcrumbs + chives + garlic + olive oil

mushrooms + caraway seeds + dill + potatoes + sour cream

mushrooms + fennel + spinach + stuffed

mushrooms + garlic + ginger + scallions

mushrooms + garlic + leeks + lemon + walnuts

mushrooms + garlic + marjoram + mint + parsley + tomatoes

mushrooms + garlic + olive oil + parsley + rosemary + thyme

mushrooms + garlic + onions + thyme

mushrooms + garlic + onions + vegetable stock

mushrooms + goat cheese + rosemary

mushrooms + lemon + mustard

mushrooms + lemon juice + olive oil + Parmesan cheese + thyme

mushrooms + lemon juice + olive oil + parsley

“If green vegetables are the king of Super Immunity, mushrooms are the queen.… White, cremini, portobello, oyster, maitake, and reishi mushrooms have all been shown to have anticancer effects.”

—DR. JOEL FUHRMAN, IN SUPER IMMUNITY

“Bottom line, mushrooms are good medicine. Cook them well before eating them and enjoy a variety rather than any one specific type.”

—DR. ANDREW WEIL, ON DRWEIL.COM

“Raw mushrooms are technically not supposed to be good for you. Also, the texture you get from them when they are cooked is much more exciting than when they are raw. So how do you give your mushrooms flavor without heat [as in raw cuisine]? You do it with citrus and salt because they will bring out a lot of flavor and enhance its texture. If you rub a mushroom with salt, the water comes out and the solids collapse and it becomes soft.”

—AMANDA COHEN, DIRT CANDY (NEW YORK CITY)

Abalone mushrooms, which are available in August and again in February through April in the Pacific Northwest, are incredibly meaty, meaty mushrooms. They’re giant, about five inches in diameter. I’ll slice them thick, score them, and poach them for an hour in butter, cognac, shallot, garlic, parsley, and thyme until they’re soft, and serve them with candied pistachios.”

—JON DUBOIS, GREEN ZEBRA (CHICAGO)

“I love trumpet mushrooms, which are milder in flavor and have the texture of scallops. They take marinades really well.”

—MAKINI HOWELL, PLUM BISTRO (SEATTLE)

“I’ll slice large Trumpet Royale mushrooms into scallops, whose great texture they resemble, although they’re not as yielding or buttery. They can be woody, so I’ll acidulate them with lemon juice, which makes them tender and lovely, and their residual sugar helps with their caramelization when I sauté them in garlic and olive oil.”

—AARON ADAMS, PORTOBELLO (PORTLAND, OR)

Dishes

Roasted Mushroom Flat Bread with Tomato Jam, Roasted Mushrooms, Caramelized Onions, Fresh Almond Ricotta, and Frisée

—Crossroads (Los Angeles)