image OIL, ACORN SQUASH SEED

Flavor: earthy notes of brown butter, chestnuts, spice, squash, and/or toasted walnuts, and a rich texture

Volume: moderate

Tip: Use for medium-temperature cooking (e.g., sautéing).

Brand: Stony Brook

Brussels sprouts

casseroles

cheeses, e.g., soft

marinades

salads

soups, e.g., winter

squash, esp. winter, e.g., acorn, butternut

vegetables, e.g., roasted, sautéed

 

image OIL, ALMOND

Flavor: notes of almonds

Volume: quiet–moderate

Techniques: bake, raw

Tip: Use for medium- (e.g., baking, sautéing) to high-temperature (e.g., frying) cooking.

Brand: La Tourangelle

almonds

asparagus

baked goods

Chinese cuisine

dressings

Indian cuisine

lettuce, e.g., romaine

mustard

pastas

salad dressings, e.g., vinaigrettes

salads

sauces

sautéed dishes

stir-fries

vegetables

vinegar, e.g., champagne

 

images  OIL, ARGAN

Flavor: notes of cream, fruit, and/or nuts, with a creamy texture

Volume: quieter (untoasted)–louder (toasted)

Tip: Use only for finishing dishes, not for cooking.

Possible substitutes: almond oil, hazelnut oil

almonds and almond paste

basil

bell peppers, e.g., red, roasted

cheese, e.g., blue, goat

chickpeas

chocolate

couscous

cream

cucumbers

desserts

dips

eggs, e.g., fried, scrambled

honey

hummus

lemon, e.g., juice

lentils

Moroccan cuisine

pastas

pestos

pine nuts

rice

salad dressings and salads

sauces

sesame, e.g., paste, seeds

soups, e.g., bean, cucumber, lentil, pea, potato, vegetable

stews, e.g., tagines

sweet potatoes

tomatoes

vegetables, e.g., grilled

verjus

vinegar, e.g., apple cider, champagne

yogurt

za’atar

zucchini

Flavor Affinities

argan oil + almonds + honey

argan oil + honey + yogurt

argan oil + lentils + tomatoes

Dishes

Creamless Cream of Pea Soup with Crispy Burrata and Argan Oil

—Mélisse (Santa Monica, CA)

 

 

image OIL, CAMELINA SEED

Flavor: notes of asparagus, broccoli, cauliflower, greens, nuts, and/or seeds

Volume: moderate–loud

Techniques: bake, sauté, stir-fry

Tip: stays fresher longer than flaxseed oil

asparagus

baked goods, e.g., muffins, quick breads

cabbage

carrots

cereals, hot breakfast

cheese, e.g., Parmesan

chickpeas

dill

dips, e.g., baba ghanoush, hummus

eggplant

eggs, e.g., quiche

garlic, e.g., green

granola

honey

kale

lemon, e.g., caramelized

marinades

mustard, e.g., Dijon

pastas, e.g., primavera

pepper, black

pestos

pilafs

rice

salad dressings

salads

sauces, oil-based

slaws, e.g., Asian, cole

smoothies

vegetables, e.g., roasted

vinegar, e.g., apple cider, balsamic

zucchini

Camelina seed oil has a really interesting, strong, seed-y flavor. I’ll combine it with caramelized lemon and green garlic.”

—JOSIAH CITRIN, MÉLISSE (SANTA MONICA, CA)

 

image OIL, CANOLA

Flavor: neutral

Volume: quiet

What it is: rapeseed oil from CANada (which is where it gets its name)

Techniques: bake, fry, sauté

Tips: Use only organic, expeller-pressed canola oil, as many canola oils are made from GMO seeds; otherwise, opt for another oil altogether. Use as fresh as possible, and check regularly for rancidity (as it goes rancid quickly). Canola oil can be used for medium- (e.g., baking) to high-temperature (e.g., frying) cooking. Use with boldly flavored dishes that would obscure the flavor of more expensive oils.

Asian cuisines

baked goods, e.g., muffins, quick breads

chiles

curries, e.g., Asian

dips

dressings

Mexican cuisine

pancakes

salad dressings

salads

sauces

soups

spicy dishes

stews

 

image  OIL, CHILI

What it is: vegetable (e.g., peanut) oil infused with chiles

Tip: Add at the end of the cooking process, to finish a dish and add heat.

Asian cuisines

cabbage, e.g., Chinese, napa

cilantro

garlic

ginger

mangoes

noodles, Asian

oil, sesame

peanuts

salad dressings

sauces, e.g., dipping, peanut

shallots

soy sauce

sugar, e.g., brown

sweet potatoes

tatsoi

vinegar, e.g., red wine, rice wine

Flavor Affinities

chili oil + rice vinegar + sesame oil + soy sauce + sugar

 

“I’ll blend coconut oil with cacao powder to make raw truffles, while I use coconut butter in raw desserts.”

—AMI BEACH, G-ZEN (BRANFORD, CT)

“The choice of oil in baking is important. For cookies I will use canola, grapeseed, or coconut oil. The coconut oil is used in our doughnuts and cakes as well, but you have to be careful so that the flavor does not become overpowering.”

—FERNANDA CAPOBIANCO, VEGAN DIVAS (NEW YORK CITY)

Coconut oil is a liquid when it’s at 72°F and up, and a solid with the texture of butter or shortening at temperatures below 72°F. When we make biscuits, we’ll use solid coconut oil and cut it into the dough, which results in a layering effect and flakier biscuits. We’ll also cut solid coconut oil into our pancake batter, where it has a leavening effect that makes our pancakes light and fluffy—more so than with canola oil.”

—DEENA JALAL, FOMU AND ROOT (ALLSTON, MA)

 

image OIL, FLAXSEED

What’s healthful about it: omega-3 fatty acids

Tips: Flaxseeds are said to be even higher in lignans than flaxseed oil is. Heating flaxseed oil destroys its nutrients. Store in the refrigerator.

artichokes

bell peppers, e.g., roasted red

bread

cereals, breakfast

herbs

lemon

mustard, Dijon

popcorn

porridges

rice

SALAD DRESSINGS

salads

sauces

smoothies

spreads

vinegar, apple cider

Flavor Affinities

flaxseed oil + apple cider vinegar + lemon juice

flaxseed oil + herbs + red wine vinegar

 

image OIL, GRAPESEED

Flavor: neutral, with delicate notes of fruit, grapes, and/or nuts

Volume: very quiet

Tips: Use for high-temperature cooking, e.g., sautéing. Buy only cold-pressed oil.

Possible substitutes: butter, canola oil

citrus

coconut

herbs

marinades

mayonnaises

oils, other, e.g., nut, olive

SALAD DRESSINGS, e.g., vinaigrettes

salads

sauces, oil-based

sautéed dishes

vinegar

“The flavor of olive oil can sometimes be overpowering, so I will often use grapeseed oil—which has a nice, neutral flavor—in a ratio of two parts grapeseed oil to one part olive oil.”

—JOSIAH CITRIN, MÉLISSE (SANTA MONICA, CA)

 

Hazelnut oil with either artichokes or endives is a nice combination.”

—JOSIAH CITRIN, MÉLISSE (SANTA MONICA, CA)

 

image OIL, HEMP

Flavor: notes of nuts and, um, marijuana; with a creamy texture

Volume: mild–moderate/loud

What’s healthful about it: omega-3s

Tips: Refrigerate, and use quickly. Do not heat.

garlic

grains, e.g., oats, quinoa

honey

lemon, e.g., juice

mustard, e.g., Dijon

oils, other quieter

pestos

popcorn

salad dressings

salads

sauces

smoothies

soups, e.g., avocado, cold

vegetables

vinegar, e.g., balsamic

 

image OIL, LEMON

Flavor: notes of lemon

Volume: loud

artichokes

arugula

asparagus

baked goods, e.g., pastries

beans, green

beets

broccoli and broccolini

carrots

cheese, e.g., goat

chili pepper flakes

fennel

garlic

olives, black

parsley

pastas

pepper, e.g., black

rosemary

salad dressings, e.g., lemon vinaigrettes

salads

thyme

 

OIL, NUT (see OIL, ALMOND; OIL, HAZELNUT; OIL, PISTACHIO; OIL, WALNUT)

 

image OIL, OLIVE

Flavor: earthy notes of fruit and/or olives, with a rich texture

Volume: quieter (e.g., lighter-colored virgin)–louder (e.g., deeper-colored extra-virgin)

Techniques: bake, fry, raw, sauté (on low heat)

Tips: Use raw, or warm only to low temperatures. Opt for lighter, quieter virgin (aka “pure”) oil for baking, frying, grilling, roasting, and sautéing, and darker, louder extra-virgin oil for dressing salads or drizzling on bruschetta or pizza. For salad dressings, the typical ratio is one part vinegar to three or four parts extra-virgin olive oil, but those looking to lower the fat in their diets (not to mention calories) should consider using less oil.

Flavor Affinities

olive oil + basil + chili pepper flakes + garlic + tomatoes

olive oil + basil + garlic + Parmesan cheese + pine nuts

olive oil + garlic + parsley

olive oil + garlic + red wine vinegar

olive oil + salt + vegetables

“I can sum up in two words the difference between vegetarian cooking in the 1970s vs. today: olive oil. Back then, it was common to mask dishes with the richness of butter and cream. Olive oil lets more of the flavor shine through, particularly dishes made with garlic and herbs.”

—MOLLIE KATZEN, AUTHOR

“One you’ve fallen in love with the flavor of extra-virgin olive oil, there’s no place to go after that. I’ll only use it to finish dishes. For high-heat cooking, I use canola, grapeseed, or safflower oil—or some combination thereof.”

—RICH LANDAU, VEDGE (PHILADELPHIA)

 

image OIL, PEANUT

Flavor: neutral (regular)–nutty (roasted)

Volume: quiet (regular)–moderate/loud (roasted)

Techniques: deep-fry, fry, grill, raw, roast, sauté, stir-fry

Tips: Use regular, unroasted peanut oil for high-temperature cooking. Given the severity of peanut allergies, make sure to let guests know when it is used in a dish.

Brand: Loriva roasted peanut oil

ASIAN CUISINES

baked goods

Chinese cuisine

curries

fried dishes

fruits

garlic

ginger

lentils

noodles, e.g., Asian

pasta

peanuts

salad dressings, e.g., Asian, fruit

salads, e.g., fruit

sauces, e.g., peanut

scallions

sesame, e.g., oil, seeds

soy sauce

STIR-FRIES

tofu

vinegar, e.g., balsamic, malt

Flavor Affinities

peanut oil + ginger + scallions + soy sauce

 

image OIL, PINE NUT

Flavor: neutral, with notes of pine nuts and/or pine resin

Volume: quiet

basil

broccoli and broccoli rabe

chard

cheese, e.g., Parmesan

chili pepper flakes

garlic

parsley

pastas

pestos

pine nuts

rice

sauces

soy sauce

spinach

stuffings

thyme

tomatoes

vinegar, e.g., rice, wine

 

 

image OIL, PUMPKIN SEED

Flavor: notes of nuts, and a very rich texture

Volume: quieter (untoasted)–louder (toasted)

What’s healthful about it: omega-3 fatty acids

Tips: Do not cook with pumpkin seed oil. Use it to drizzle on finished dishes.

American cuisine

Austrian cuisine

avocados

baked goods, e.g., pastries

citrus

corn

Croatian cuisine

desserts

dips

dressings

ice cream, e.g., vanilla

Indian cuisine

maple syrup

marinades

Mexican cuisine

mustard, e.g., Dijon

oils, other quieter, e.g., vegetable

pastas

pumpkin

pumpkin seeds

rice

salads

sauces

Slovenian cuisine

soups

squash, e.g., winter

vegetables

vinegar, e.g., apple cider, balsamic, rice wine

 

OIL, RAPESEED (see OIL, CANOLA)

 

image OIL, RED PALM

Flavor: pungent notes of smoke, with a texture that is a cross between that of oil and tomato paste

Volume: moderate–loud

What it is: oil pressed from palm fruit (not to be confused with palm kernel oil)

Brand: Jungle Products

(West) African cuisine

baked goods, e.g., muffins

bananas

chiles

chili, vegetarian

cilantro

coconut

couscous

curries

eggs and egg dishes

garlic

ginger

lemon

lime

macaroni and cheese (for yellow/orange color)

oils, other, e.g., canola, coconut, neutral

onions

pastas, homemade (for yellow/orange color)

plantains

popcorn

rice

salad dressings

sauces, e.g., tomato

soups, e.g., pumpkin

tomatoes and tomato sauce

vegetables, e.g., roasted, sautéed

 

 

image OIL, SESAME

Flavor: aromatic, with notes of nuts, and a rich texture

Volume: moderate (light)–loud (dark)

What it is: oil pressed from sesame seeds

Tips: Use light sesame oil for low- to medium-heat cooking (e.g., baking, sautéing), and dark (roasted or toasted) sesame oil primarily drizzled on as a seasoning, to finish raw or cooked dishes. Buy sesame oil fresh, and use within one year.

ASIAN CUISINES

baked goods

beans, e.g., green

Chinese cuisine

dips and dipping sauces

dressings

garlic

ginger

grains

greens

Japanese cuisine

Korean cuisine

lemon, e.g., juice

lime, e.g., juice

MARINADES

mirin

miso

mustard, e.g., Dijon

noodles, e.g., Asian

oil, other, e.g., canola, olive, sunflower

orange

pastas

pumpkin

SALAD DRESSINGS, e.g., Asian

salads, e.g., Asian, green, noodle

SAUCES

SEEDS, SESAME

soups, e.g., miso

SOY SAUCE

STIR-FRIES

sugar snap peas

tamari

tofu

vinegar, e.g., apple cider, rice

Flavor Affinities

sesame oil + garlic + ginger + mirin + soy sauce

 

image OIL, SUNFLOWER SEED

Flavor: notes of nuts

Volume: quiet–moderate

Tips: Use for medium-(e.g., baking, sautéing) to high-temperature cooking (e.g., frying, stir-frying). Use sparingly, if at all, as sunflower seed oil is often highly refined and processed, as well as high in unhealthful omega-6 fatty acids. If you do use it, look for the high-oleic version and/or Loriva brand.

salad dressings

salads, e.g., green, spinach

sauces

sprouts, sunflower

sunflower seeds

vinegar, e.g., apple cider, red wine

 

image OIL, TRUFFLE—IN GENERAL (i.e., BLACK or WHITE)

Flavor: umami

Volume: moderate–loud

Tips: Truffle oil can be drizzled on top of dishes; it is not suitable for cooking. Look for oils with visible truffle bits in the oil, e.g., those produced by Urbani.

cheese

eggs

leeks

mushrooms, e.g., chanterelle, portobello

pastas

potatoes

risottos

salad dressings

 

image OIL, TRUFFLE—BLACK

Flavor: umami

Volume: loud

eggs

French cuisine

marinades

mushrooms

potatoes

salads

 

image OIL, TRUFFLE—OREGON

Flavor: umami

What it is: oil made from Oregon-foraged truffles

mushrooms, e.g., wild

pastas, esp. creamy

pizzas

popcorn

potatoes, e.g., baked, mashed

risottos

sauces, e.g., creamy

 

 

image OIL, VEGETABLE

Tip: Skip the formerly ubiquitous generically named “vegetable oil” in favor of an oil with a specific name, so you can be quite sure what you’re getting.

 

image OIL, WALNUT

Flavor: earthy notes of walnuts, and a rich texture

Volume: moderate–loud

What’s healthful about it: omega-3 fatty acids

Tips: Drizzle on dishes before serving. Use for low-heat to medium-high-heat cooking (e.g., baking, sautéing).

apples

artichokes, Jerusalem

arugula

asparagus

baked goods, e.g., breads, scones

beets

breads

celery and celery leaves

cheese, e.g., blue

chicory

citrus, e.g., juices

dips

endive

escarole

fennel

figs

frisée

garlic

grapes

greens, e.g., bitter, dandelion, salad

ice cream

lemon, e.g., juice

lentils

mustard, Dijon

oil, other quieter, e.g., olive

parsley

pastas

peaches

pears

pepper, black

persimmons

pomegranates

radicchio

SALAD DRESSINGS, e.g., vinaigrettes

salads, e.g., grain, green

sauces

shallots

tomatoes

vegetables, e.g., grilled

VINEGAR, e.g., balsamic, champagne, cider, red wine, sherry, tarragon, white wine

WALNUTS

Flavor Affinities

walnut oil + blue cheese + celery + pears + walnuts

Dishes

Ensalada Clasica: Bayless Garden Greens, La Nogalera Walnut Oil, Fresh Lime, Toasted Walnuts and Chile Threads

—Topolobampo (Chicago)

 

OIL SUBSTITUTES

Tips: When baking sweets (e.g., cakes, cookies, cupcakes, muffins, etc.), substitute 1 cup of fruit puree for each cup of oil called for in the recipe. You can use applesauce or other fruit purees (e.g., banana, prune, pumpkin), and even pureed black beans in dark-colored baked goods such as brownies and chocolate cakes. Substitute vegetable stock for oil when sautéing garlic, onions, or other vegetables.

CHOOSE YOUR OIL

Cooking Methods: No heat

Best Types of Oil: almond, avocado, flaxseed, hazelnut, pumpkin, safflower, sunflower, walnut

Cooking Methods: Low-heat cooking methods (e.g., baking, sautéing)

Best Types of Oil: coconut, corn, olive, peanut, sesame

Cooking Methods: Medium-heat cooking methods (e.g., higher-heat baking, sautéing)

Best Types of Oil: canola, grapeseed, safflower

Cooking Methods: High-heat cooking methods (e.g., frying, stir-frying)

Best Types of Oil: canola, corn, peanut, safflower, sunflower

 

 

image OKRA

Season: summer–autumn

Flavor: bitter/sour, with notes of artichoke, asparagus, and/or eggplant, and a sometimes slightly slimy texture

Volume: moderate–loud

Nutritional profile: 71% carbs / 21% protein / 8% fats

Calories: 20 per ½-cup serving (boiled)

Protein: 1 gram

Techniques: bake, blanch, boil, braise, bread, deep-fry, fry, grill, marinate, pickle, pressure-cook, sauté, simmer, steam, stew

Tips: To minimize okra’s potential sliminess, blanch it in salt water before shocking it in ice water. Do not cook in brass, copper, or iron pans, or okra will turn black.

African cuisine

apricots, dried

BASIL

beans, e.g., green

bell peppers, e.g., green, red, yellow

bulgur

butter

Caribbean cuisine

cayenne

celery

chickpeas

chiles, chili pepper flakes, chili pepper sauce, and chili powder

cilantro

cinnamon

coconut

coriander

CORN and cornmeal

CREOLE CUISINE

cucumbers

cumin

CURRIES

curry powder

dill

eggplant

Ethiopian cuisine

fennel

garam masala

GARLIC

GINGER

grits

GUMBOS

honey

Indian cuisine

LEMON, e.g., juice

lime

Mediterranean cuisines

Middle Eastern cuisines

mint

mushrooms

mustard seeds

nutmeg

OIL, e.g., grapeseed, OLIVE, sesame

ONIONS, e.g., green, red

orange

PARSLEY

pepper, black

plantains

potatoes

ratatouille

RICE, e.g., long-grain

salads

salt, e.g., kosher

SAUCES, e.g., hot (e.g., Tabasco), TOMATO

SOUPS

Southern (U.S.) cuisine

STEWS

sweet potatoes

thyme

*TOMATOES

turmeric

vinegar

yogurt

Flavor Affinities

okra + beans + rice

okra + bell peppers + curry powder + red onions

okra + black pepper + lemon juice

okra + corn + tomatoes

okra + cornmeal + olive oil + onions

okra + garlic + ginger + tomatoes

okra + ginger + tomatoes

okra + potatoes + stews + tomatoes

Dishes

Wood Oven Roasted Okra and Shishitos, with Sesame-Garlic Crumbs

—ABC Kitchen (New York City)

Okra, when stewed with cinnamon, dried apricots, lemon juice, and tomatoes, releases its thick viscosity into the sauce, uniting this irresistible combination.”

—DIANE FORLEY, FLOURISH BAKING COMPANY (SCARSDALE, NY)

 

image OLIVES—IN GENERAL, or MIXED

Flavor: bitter, salty, and/or sour

Volume: quiet/moderate–loud (depending on the type)

Nutritional profile: 88% fat / 10% carbs / 2% protein (and high in sodium)

Calories: 4 per olive

Flavor Affinities

olives + arugula + figs + Parmesan cheese

olives + asparagus + basil

olives + basil + tofu + tomatoes

olives + beets + feta cheese

olives + beets + olives + orange

olives + capers + garlic + onions + oregano + tomatoes

olives + capers + lemon juice + olive oil

olives + capers + tomatoes

olives + chili pepper flakes + garlic + lemon + rosemary

olives + fennel + orange

olives + feta cheese + garlic + spinach

olives + garlic + lemon + rosemary

olives + herbs + lemon

olives + orange + parsley + pine nuts

olives + pasta + pine nuts + tomatoes