OLIVES, MANZANILLA (aka SPANISH OLIVES)

Flavor: salty, with notes of nuts (esp. almonds) and/or smoke, and a firm, rich, meaty texture

Volume: moderate–loud

What they are: smallish green brine-cured Spanish olives

almonds, e.g., Spanish

cocktails, e.g., martinis

garlic

oil, olive

pimento

pizza

salads

Spanish cuisine

 

OLIVES, NIÇOISE

Flavor: sour, with nutty notes, and a rich texture

Volume: quiet–moderate

What they are: small black olives from southern France

Possible substitute: kalamata olives

beans, e.g., green, white

French cuisine, esp. Provençal

herbs

lemon, e.g., juice, zest

lettuce, e.g., romaine

onions

oranges, e.g., blood

pastes, olive

potatoes

rosemary

salads, e.g., niçoise, vegetable

salt

tapenades

thyme

 

 

image ONIONS—IN GENERAL, or MIXED

Season: year-round, esp. autumn

Flavor: sweet (and sweeter, when caramelized), with pungent notes

Volume: quieter (cooked)–louder (raw)

What they are: vegetables

Nutritional profile: 90% carbs (high in sugars) / 8% protein / 2% fats

Calories: 65 per 1-cup serving (raw)

Protein: 2 grams

Techniques: bake (60–90 minutes), boil, braise, broil, caramelize, deep-fry, fry, grill, pickle, pressure-cook, roast, sauté, steam, stir-fry

Tips: Onions increase appetite and pair well with virtually all savory foods.

Botanical relatives: asparagus, chives, garlic, leeks, shallots

APPLES, e.g., cider, fruit, juice

arame

arugula

avocado

barley and pearl barley

basil

bay leaf

BEANS, e.g., black, green, kidney, pinto, white

beets

bell peppers

black-eyed peas

breadcrumbs

breads, e.g., focaccia

butter

caramelized onions

cardamom

CARROTS

casseroles

cauliflower

cayenne

CELERY

celery seeds

chard

CHEESE, e.g., blue, cheddar, chèvre, Comté, Emmentaler, feta, goat, Gouda, GRUYÈRE, nondairy, Parmesan, pecorino, Swiss

chestnuts

chickpeas

chiles

chili, vegetarian

cinnamon

cloves

compotes

confit

coriander

corn

couscous

cream

crème fraîche

croutons

curries

curry powder

dates

dill

dips

eggplant

EGGS, e.g., frittatas, hard-boiled, omelets, quiches

fennel and fennel seeds

figs

French cuisine, e.g., soups, tarts

frisée

GARLIC

grains, whole

gravies

greens, e.g., bitter (e.g., collard) or salad

honey

kale

lemon, e.g., juice, zest

LENTILS

Madeira

marjoram

milk

mint

miso

MUSHROOMS, e.g., porcini

mustard, Dijon

nutmeg

OIL, e.g., OLIVE

olives

oregano

PARSLEY

parsnips

pastas, e.g., ziti

PEPPER, e.g., black, white

pies

pine nuts

pizza

polenta

poppy seeds

potatoes

pumpkin

quinoa

raisins

relishes

RICE, e.g., Arborio, brown, wild

risottos

ROSEMARY

sage

salad dressings

SALADS

salt, e.g., kosher, sea

sandwiches

sauces

savory

shallots

sherry

sorrel

SOUPS, e.g., onion, vegetable

soy sauce

spinach

squash, e.g., spaghetti

stews

STOCKS, e.g., vegetable

stuffed onions, e.g., with cheese, herbs, and/or rice

sugar (i.e., a pinch)

sumac

sweet potatoes

tahini

tamari

tarts, onion

THYME

TOMATOES and tomato paste

vegetables, e.g., root

veggie burgers

VINEGAR, e.g., balsamic, red wine, sherry, tarragon, white balsamic

walnuts

WINE, e.g., dry red or white

yogurt

zucchini

Flavor Affinities

onions + arugula + chèvre cheese + figs

onions + avocado + garlic + salads

onions + bell peppers + potatoes

onions + bitter greens + soy sauce

onions + black pepper + nutmeg + Swiss cheese

onions + black pepper + oil + tomato paste + vegetable stock

onions + blue cheese + walnuts

*ONIONS + CARROTS + CELERY

onions + cheese + croutons + garlic + vegetable stock

onions + cream + Dijon mustard

onions + feta cheese + olives

onions + garlic + mint + white balsamic vinegar

onions + lemon + parsley

onions + parsley + tamari

onions + rosemary + vinegar

onions + thyme + vinegar

Dishes

Red Wine Braised Heirloom Onions: Arrowleaf Spinach, Broccolini, Cauliflower “Florettes,” Meyer Lemon, and Preserved Horseradish

—Per Se (New York City)

Onion Pie: Cranberry, Radish Chow-Chow, Bourbon Glaze

—Rowland’s at Westglow (Blowing Rock, NC)

French Onion Soup au Gratin: Caramelized Onions, Croutons, Swiss au Gratin in Veggie Stock

—Table Verte (New York City)

 

ONIONS, CIPOLLINI

Flavor: sweet

Techniques: glaze, grill, roast

bay leaf

cinnamon

honey

Italian cuisine

kebabs

oil, olive

onions, other

pastas

raisins

rosemary

sage

salads

sauces

shallots

stock, vegetable

sugar, e.g., brown

thyme

vinegar, e.g., balsamic, champagne, sherry

wine, dry red

 

ONIONS, GREEN (see SCALLIONS)

 

 

ONIONS, RED (see also ONIONS)

Flavor: slightly sweet, with a firmer, drier texture than that of yellow onions

Volume: quiet

Techniques: can be eaten raw, as in salads—otherwise: grill, roast

Tip: The quiet flavor of red onions works well with fruits as well as quieter and/or sweeter vegetables and legumes, not to mention served raw in salads and salsas or on sandwiches and veggie burgers.

avocado

beans, e.g., black

beets

carrots

cauliflower

celery

cheese, e.g., blue, feta, goat, Jack, Parmesan

chickpeas

cilantro

eggs, e.g., frittatas

fennel

fruits, e.g., apples, mangoes, melons, oranges, papayas, peaches, pineapple

garlic

ginger

honey

jícama

lemon, e.g., juice

lime, e.g., juice, zest

maple syrup

miso, e.g., dark or red

mushrooms, e.g., portobello

OIL, OLIVE

olives

onion rings

orange, e.g., juice, zest

parsley

pepper, black

pizza

potatoes

quesadillas

SALADS, e.g., green, potato, tomato

SALSAS, e.g., fruit, tomato

salt, e.g., kosher, sea

soups

squash, winter, e.g., butternut

stock, vegetable

sweet potatoes

thyme

tomatoes

veggie burgers

VINEGAR, e.g., balsamic, red wine, rice wine, sherry, white wine

wine, e.g., dry red

Flavor Affinities

red onions + balsamic vinegar + olive oil

red onions + basil + tomatoes

red onions + chiles + cilantro + olive oil + vinegar

red onions + chiles + corn + garlic + lime + tomatoes

red onions + corn + tomatoes

red onions + cranberries + ginger + orange

red onions + feta cheese + pine nuts

red onions + jícama + orange

red onions + lemon + olive oil + Parmesan cheese + parsley + salads

red onions + lime + mint

red onions + miso + vegetable stock

red onions + red wine vinegar + thyme

Dishes

Potato, Spring Onion, and Celeriac Soup, with Pear, Celery, Lemon, and Chives

—Natural Selection (Portland, OR)

 

image ONIONS, SPRING (see also SCALLIONS)

Tip: Spring onions refers to both green onions (small and mild) and scallions (smaller and milder), which are immature onions. They can typically be used interchangeably.

 

ONIONS, VIDALIA

Season: spring–summer

Flavor: sweet–very sweet, with a juicy texture

Volume: quiet–moderate

What they are: Georgia’s “state vegetable,” famed as the world’s sweetest onions

basil

breadcrumbs

cheese, e.g., blue, goat, Parmesan

garlic

mustard, Dijon

oil, olive

pepper, black

pine nuts

salt

sauces

stuffed onions

thyme

vinegar, e.g., balsamic, red wine

wine, dry white

zucchini

 

image ORANGES,  image  ORANGE JUICE, and ORANGE ZEST

Season: year-round, esp. winter

Flavor: sour/sweet, with a very juicy texture

Volume: moderate–loud

Nutritional profile: 91% carbs / 7% protein / 2% fats

Calories: 65 per medium orange

Protein: 1 gram

Techniques: poach, raw

Tips: Buy organic oranges. Lemon brightens the flavor of orange.

Botanical relatives: grapefruit, kumquats, lemons, limes

Possible substitutes: clementines, mandarins, tangerines

anise seeds

apples

apricots

Armagnac

arugula

Asian cuisines

asparagus

avocados

BAKED GOODS, e.g., cakes, muffins, quick breads, scones, tarts

bananas

barley, e.g., pearl

basil

beans, e.g., black, white

BEETS

berries, e.g., blueberries, raspberries, strawberries

beverages, e.g., juices, sangrias, smoothies

brandy

broccoli and broccolini

bulgur

cabbage, e.g., red

cardamom

CARROTS

celery root

cereals, hot breakfast

cheese, e.g., cream, feta, goat

chickpeas

chili pepper flakes

chiles, e.g., chipotle

Chinese cuisine (native ingredient)

chives

CHOCOLATE, e.g., dark, white

cilantro

CINNAMON

citrus fruits, other, e.g., grapefruit, lemon, lime

cloves

coconut

compotes

coriander

couscous

CRANBERRIES

cream

cumin

daikon

DATES

desserts, e.g., puddings

endive

escarole

FENNEL

figs

fruit, dried and fresh

garlic

GINGER

greens, e.g., dandelion, salad

“gremolata”

HONEY

horseradish

jícama

kiwi

lettuce, e.g., Bibb

liqueurs, orange, e.g., Cointreau, Grand Marnier

mangoes

maple syrup

marinades

marmalade

mascarpone

mesclun

millet

mint

miso

mushrooms, e.g., shiitake, wild

mustard, Dijon

noodles, Asian

NUTS, e.g., ALMONDS, cashews, hazelnuts, peanuts, PECANS, pine nuts, pistachios, WALNUTS

oil, e.g., olive, sunflower seed

OLIVES, e.g., black, kalamata

onions, e.g., green, red, Vidalia

oranges, blood

papayas

parsley

parsnips

pears

pepper, black

pineapple

plums

pomegranates

pumpkin

quinoa

radicchio

radishes

rhubarb

rice and wild rice

rosemary

rutabagas

sage

salad dressings

salads, e.g., avocado, carrot, fruit, green

sauces

scallions

seitan

sesame, e.g., oil, seeds

shallots

smoothies, e.g., berry, pineapple

snow peas

soups, e.g., fruit

sorbets

soy sauce

spinach

squash, e.g., butternut

star anise

starfruit

stir-fries

sugar, e.g., brown

sweet potatoes

tamari

tofu

turnips

vanilla

vinegar, e.g., balsamic, champagne, cider, red wine, rice wine, sherry, white wine

watercress

wine, e.g., red

yams

yogurt

Flavor Affinities

oranges + almonds + Bibb lettuce + jícama

oranges + almonds + dates + figs

oranges + arugula + hazelnuts

oranges + asparagus + couscous

oranges + avocados + beets

oranges + avocados + black beans + red onions

oranges + balsamic vinegar + beets + fennel

oranges + barley + fennel + radishes

oranges + black beans + quinoa

oranges + carrots + ginger

oranges + cashews + rice

oranges + chickpeas + couscous + fennel

oranges + chili pepper flakes + garlic + ginger + soy sauce

oranges + cilantro + jícama

oranges + cinnamon + honey + pears

oranges + cranberries + pears

oranges + dandelion greens + pine nuts

oranges + fennel + olives

oranges + fennel + parsley

oranges + fennel + walnuts

oranges + fennel + watercress + white beans

oranges + feta cheese + spinach

oranges + ginger + rice wine vinegar

oranges + goat cheese + pomegranates + walnuts

oranges + honey + rosemary

oranges + pecans + radicchio

oranges + sesame + spinach

 

image ORANGES, BLOOD (see also ORANGES)

Season: winter–spring

Flavor: sour/sweet, with notes of raspberries

Volume: moderate

almonds

arugula

avocado

beets

beverages, e.g., juices, mimosas

Brussels sprouts

caramel

cheese, e.g., blue, feta, goat

chicory

chiles

chocolate, e.g., white

cilantro

cinnamon

citrus, other, e.g., limes, regular oranges

cloves

cream

desserts, e.g., fruit tarts

endive

FENNEL

grains, e.g., quinoa

grapefruit

greens, salad

honey

ices/granitas

jícama

kiwi

kumquats

lemon

lettuce, e.g., romaine

mangoes

mint

oil, e.g., olive

olives, e.g., black

onions, red

papaya

pomegranates

poppy seeds

radishes, e.g., black

salad dressings

SALADS, e.g., fruit, green

salsas

sauces

spinach

sugar, e.g., brown

tangerines

thyme

vanilla

vinegar, e.g., balsamic, milder

walnuts

watercress

wine, sparkling, e.g., Champagne

Flavor Affinities

blood oranges + arugula + beets + walnuts

blood oranges + black olives + fennel + lemon juice + olive oil

 

Dishes

Pasticcini with Caramel and Clementine Ice Creams, Toasted Hazelnuts, and Bittersweet Chocolate

—Chez Panisse (Berkeley, CA)

Enlightened Asian Salad: Sweet Clementines, Organic Edamame, and Sliced Almonds grace an invigorating blend of Organic Spring Mix, Red Cabbage, Carrots, Cucumbers, and Tomatoes; paired with our Sesame-Ginger Vinaigrette

—Wildflower (Millville, NJ)

 

image OREGANO

Flavor: bitter (esp. Greek oregano) / slightly sweet (esp. Italian oregano), with pungent floral, herbal, lemon, and/or marjoram notes

Volume: moderate (Italian < Greek)–loud (Mexican)

Tips: Add dried oregano at the beginning of cooking, fresh at the end. Oregano can have great variability, i.e., from milder to hotter and spicier. Italian oregano is sweeter (and quieter) than Greek or Mexican oregano.

Botanical relatives: basil, lavender, marjoram, mint, rosemary, sage, summer savory, thyme

Flavor Affinities

oregano + cannellini beans + zucchini

oregano + feta cheese + salads + tomatoes

oregano + garlic + lemon + salad dressings

oregano + lemon juice + olive oil + marinades

 

OREGANO, MEXICAN

Flavor: bitter, with pungent floral, herbal, lemon, and/or marjoram notes

Volume: loud

Tip: Add at the beginning of cooking.

Possible substitute: epazote

beans, e.g., black

burritos

Central American cuisines

chiles, e.g., green

chili, vegetarian

chili powder

cumin

empanadas

enchiladas

garlic

MEXICAN CUISINE

onions

paprika

salsas

sauces

soups

Southwest (American) cuisine

spicy dishes

stews, vegetable

tacos

Tex-Mex cuisine

 

ORGANIC PRODUCE

Tip: Opt for organic produce whenever possible—and definitely when you buy one of the Environmental Working Group (EWG)’s so-called “Dirty Dozen Plus” fruits or vegetables, which are those most affected by chemical contamination, i.e., apples, bell peppers, celery, cherry tomatoes, chili peppers, collard greens, cucumbers, grapes, kale, nectarines (imported), peaches, potatoes, spinach, strawberries, and summer squash.

The EWG notes that “[t]he health benefits of a diet rich in fruits and vegetables outweigh the risks of pesticide exposure. Use EWG’s Shopper’s Guide to Pesticides™ to reduce your exposures as much as possible, but eating conventionally-grown produce is far better than not eating fruits and vegetables at all.

 

ORZO (see PASTA, ORZO)

 

image PALM, HEARTS OF (aka HEARTS OF PALM)

Flavors: slightly sweet, with earthy notes of artichoke hearts, bamboo shoots, and/or nuts, and a tender and flaky yet firm texture

Volume: quiet

What they are: the hearts of the stems of the Sabal palmetto tree

Nutritional profile: 59% carbs / 22% protein / 19% fats

Calories: 40 per 1-cup serving (canned)

Protein: 4 grams

Techniques: blanch, grill, marinate, raw, sauté, sear, steam, stew, stir-fry

Tip: Substitute for seafood (e.g., crab) in texture, or white asparagus in flavor.

Flavor Affinities

hearts of palm + almonds + avocado + manchego cheese + romaine + tomatoes

hearts of palm + asparagus + basil + shiitake mushrooms

hearts of palm + avocado + black olives + pine nuts + tomatoes

hearts of palm + avocado + mango

hearts of palm + avocado + orange

hearts of palm + cayenne + salt

hearts of palm + chickpeas + tomatoes

hearts of palm + cilantro + jícama + lemon + orange

hearts of palm + garlic + herbs + lime + olive oil

hearts of palm + mayonnaise + mustard + nori + Old Bay seasoning + “crabcakes”

image

Dishes

Coconut Garlic Soup with Japanese Wood Grilled Hawaiian Hearts of Palm

—Bouley Restaurant (New York City)

Salad of Boston Bibb, Red Watercress, Fresh Hawaiian Hearts of Palm, Julienne of Royal Trumpet Mushrooms

—Bouley Restaurant (New York City)

“Crab Cakes”: Hearts of Palm / Apples / Beets / Horseradish Cream (pictured above)

—Crossroads (Los Angeles)

Curried Wild Rice and Hawaiian Hearts of Palm: Sea Bean Tempura, Myoga Shavings

—DANIEL (New York City)

Hearts of Palm—Vadouvan Ravioli: Eggplant Caponata, Young Cilantro Leaves

—DANIEL (New York City)

Ensalada de Palmitos: Romaine, Tomatoes, Hearts of Palm, Avocado, Toasted Almond Vinaigrette, and Manchego Shavings

—El Parador Café (New York City)

Hawaiian Hearts of Palm with Tangerines, Pea Shoots, Cucumber, Tamarind Vinaigrette

—Nora (Washington, DC)

Hawaiian Hearts of Palm, Lemongrass Corn Purée, Lomi Tomatoes, Pickled Corn

—Vedge (Philadelphia)

 

“I’ll use palm shortening to make an icing with vegan powdered sugar and a little soy milk. If I want aroma, I’ll add some orange flower or rose water.”

—AARON WOO, NATURAL SELECTION (PORTLAND, OR)

 

image PAPAYA (i.e., RED)

Season: summer–autumn

Flavor: sweet/sour, with musky notes of melon, and a soft, juicy texture (when ripe)

Volume: quiet–moderate

Nutritional profile: 92% carbs / 5% protein / 3% fats

Calories: 55 per 1-cup serving (raw, cubed)

Protein: 1 gram

Techniques: bake, grill, raw, sauté

Tip: Avoid using with gelatin, as the fruit’s enzymes interfere with its setting.

agave nectar

arugula

AVOCADOS

bananas

beans, e.g., black

bell peppers, red, esp. roasted

berries, e.g., raspberries, strawberries

Caribbean cuisines

carrots

cayenne

cheese, e.g., Mexican

CHILES, e.g., ancho, jalapeño, and chili pepper sauce

chutneys

CILANTRO

cinnamon

CITRUS, e.g., grapefruit, LEMON, *LIME

coconut

cucumbers

cumin

curries

daikon

garlic

GINGER

grapefruit

greens, salad

honey

ice creams

jams

jícama

kiwi

lavender

lemongrass

lettuce

MANGO

marinades

melon, e.g., cantaloupe, honeydew

MINT

nutmeg

nuts, e.g., almonds, cashews, macadamia nuts, peanuts

oil, olive

ONIONS, RED

orange, e.g., fruit, juice, zest

passion fruit

peaches

pineapple

rice

salad dressings

SALADS, e.g., fruit

SALSAS

salt

scallions

shallots

SMOOTHIES

sorbets

soy sauce

spinach

sprouts, mung bean

sugar, e.g., brown

summer rolls

tofu

tomatoes

tortillas, corn

vanilla

vinegar, e.g., rice wine, tarragon

yogurt

Flavor Affinities

papaya + banana + honey

papaya + bananas + mangos + vanilla + yogurt

papaya + bananas + oranges

papaya + bell peppers + cilantro + lime + onions

papaya + cayenne + cilantro + lime

papaya + cayenne + greens + jicama + lemon + lime

papaya + chiles + cilantro + ginger

papaya + chiles + mango + mint + pineapple

papaya + cilantro + mango + scallions

papaya + coconut + rice

papaya + ginger + lime

papaya + ginger + mango + orange

papaya + honey + mint + yogurt

papaya + jícama + orange + red onions

papaya + kiwi + mango + pineapple

papaya + lime + mango + mint + orange

papaya + lime + mint

papaya + passion fruit + raspberries

papaya + strawberries + yogurt

 

 

image PAPRIKA (see also PAPRIKA, SMOKED)

Flavor: bitter / slightly sweet (and sometimes hot, depending on variety), with earthy/fruity/pungent notes

Volume: quiet (e.g., sweet paprika)–loud (e.g., hot or smoked paprika)

What it is: finely ground dried capsicums (hot peppers)

Tips: Hungarian paprika is typically sun-dried and sweet. Try Spanish smoked paprika (aka pimenton), which has been smoked over fire, to add notes of smokiness to dishes.

Botanical relatives: bell peppers, chiles, eggplant, gooseberries, potatoes, tomatillos, tomatoes

beans, black

cayenne

cheese

chiles and chili powder

chili, vegetarian

cilantro

coriander

corn

cumin

deviled eggs

Eastern European cuisines, e.g., Hungarian

EGGS, e.g., hard-boiled, omelets

garlic

goulash, vegetarian

Hungarian cuisine

lemon

lime

marinades

mushrooms, e.g., stuffed

onions

orange

oregano

pecans

pepper, black

potatoes

purees

rice

salad dressings

salads, e.g., macaroni, potato

sauces, e.g., cream, tomato

sauerkraut

soups

sour cream

Southwestern (U.S.) cuisine

Spanish cuisine, esp. smoked paprika

spreads

stews

stroganoff, e.g., mushroom

sweet potatoes

Texas cuisine

tomatoes

turmeric

vegetables

vinegar, e.g., balsamic, sherry

Flavor Affinities

paprika + mushrooms + sour cream

Dishes

Crispy Chickpeas, Smoked Paprika, and Lemon

—FnB Restaurant (Scottsdale, AZ)

 

 

PAPRIKA, SPANISH (see PAPRIKA, SMOKED)

 

image PARSLEY, generally ITALIAN (aka FLAT-LEAF PARSLEY)

Flavor: sweet, with astringent, earthy notes of celery, herbs, lemon, and/or pepper

Volume: quiet (curly)–quiet/moderate (flat-leaf or Italian)

Techniques: fresh, sauté

Tips: Parsley is best served fresh (not dried). Use to enhance the flavor of other herbs and spices. Add toward the end of the cooking process. Chew on a sprig to freshen your breath. Don’t forget that the stems have a lot of flavor—Noma chef René Redzepi sautés them in the winter, deeming them “incredible.”

Botanical relatives: anise, caraway, carrots, celery, celery root, chervil, coriander, cumin, dill, fennel, parsley root, parsnips

Flavor Affinities

parsley + artichokes + garlic

parsley + breadcrumbs + butter + garlic + shallots

parsley + bulgur + lemon + mint + tomatoes

PARSLEY + CAPERS + garlic + LEMON + olive oil

parsley + chili pepper flakes + garlic + olive oil + vinegar

PARSLEY + GARLIC + gremolata + LEMON

PARSLEY + GARLIC + LEMON + mint + olive oil + walnuts

“I love parsley as a flavor. Parsley risotto is amazing, and its color is as vibrant as its flavor. There is more to parsley than just the leaf; I use the stems and roots as well. The stems add good texture, and I use them to add crunch to soups. As for the root, which has an herbaceousness similar to parsnips, I like to roast and puree them for soups as well.… People also need to remember that there is more than flat-leaf parsley out there. I am a fan of curly parsley, which is often overlooked and has an intense, almost celery-like flavor. There was a time in America when you couldn’t serve a plate without the orange wedge and curly parsley.”

—CHRISTOPHER BATES, HOTEL FAUCHÈRE (MILFORD, PA)

 

Dishes

Dairy-Free Garlic and Almond Soup, Parsley Root, and Parsley Purée with Shiitake Mushrooms

—Bouley Restaurant (New York City)

Parsley Root Puree with Sunchoke Fricassee: Hedgehog Mushrooms, Verjus-Pickled Celery, Cocoa Bean Shavings

—DANIEL (New York City)

 

image PARSNIPS

Season: autumn–spring

Flavor: sweet, with earthy notes of celery, herbs, and/or nuts, and a smooth, starchy potato-like texture (when cooked)

Volume: moderate–loud

What they are: root vegetables resembling pale carrots

Nutritional profile: 91% carbs / 5% protein / 4% fats

Calories: 55 per ½-cup serving (boiled, sliced)

Protein: 1 gram

Techniques: bake, blanch, boil, braise, deep-fry, fry, grate, grill, mash, pressure-cook, puree, roast, sauté, simmer (15–20 minutes), steam

Tip: Select young, tender parsnips for optimal flavor and texture.

Botanical relatives: anise, caraway, carrots, celery, celery root, chervil, dill, fennel, parsley, parsley root

allspice

anise seeds

APPLES, apple cider, and apple juice

baked goods, e.g., breads, cakes, muffins, pies

basil

bay leaf

beans

BREADCRUMBS

BUTTER and brown butter

capers

caramel

cardamom

CARROTS

celery, celery leaves, and celery seeds

celery root

chayote

CHEESE, e.g., cream, Parmesan

chervil

chips, parsnip

CHIVES

cilantro

CINNAMON

cloves

coconut

coriander

couscous

CREAM

crème fraîche

cumin

CURRY, e.g., powder, spices, and curries

dates

desserts, e.g., cakes, custards

dill

eggs

fennel

GARLIC

ghee

GINGER

gratins

greens, bitter, e.g., dandelion, mustard

hash browns

HONEY

horseradish

“hummus”

kale

LEEKS

LEMON, e.g., juice, zest

lentils

lettuce

lime, e.g., juice, zest

mace

MAPLE SYRUP

marjoram

mayonnaise

milk, dairy or nondairy, e.g., almond, rice, soy

mint

miso

MUSHROOMS, e.g., porcini, portobello, shiitake

MUSTARD, e.g., Dijon, whole-grain

NUTMEG

nuts, e.g., almonds, hazelnuts, pecans, walnuts

OILS, e.g., flaxseed, grapeseed, hazelnut, OLIVE, peanut, sesame, sunflower, walnut

ONIONS, e.g., pearl, red, yellow

ORANGE, e.g., juice, zest

pancakes

paprika

PARSLEY

pasta, e.g., gnocchi, ravioli

pears

PEPPER, e.g., black, white

POTATOES

pumpkin

PUREES, e.g., carrot, parsnip, potato, pumpkin

rice and “root rice” (a raw alternative to rice)

root vegetables, other, e.g., carrots, celery root, rutabagas, turnips

ROSEMARY

rutabaga

sage

SALADS, e.g., parsnip, vegetable

SALT, SEA

savory

scallions

sesame, e.g., oil, seeds

shallots

slaws

sorrel

SOUPS and BISQUES, e.g., cream, lentil, parsnip, potato, winter vegetable

sour cream

squash, winter

star anise

STEWS

STOCK, vegetable

sugar, e.g., brown

sweet potatoes

tarragon

THYME

tofu, e.g., silken

turmeric

turnips

vanilla

VEGETABLES, other root

vinegar, e.g., balsamic, cider, rice, sherry, white wine

wine, e.g., dry red

yogurt

Flavor Affinities

parsnips + allspice + almonds + cinnamon + vanilla

parsnips + almonds + honey + sage

parsnips + apples + cinnamon + pecans

parsnips + apples + sweet potatoes

parsnips + black pepper + butter

parsnips + caramel + cream cheese + walnuts

parsnips + carrots + dill + potatoes

parsnips + carrots + rutabagas + sweet potatoes

parsnips + celery root + potatoes

parsnips + chestnuts + mushrooms + Parmesan cheese

parsnips + cinnamon + cloves + ginger + nutmeg

parsnips + coconut + lime + mint

parsnips + coriander + cumin + ginger

parsnips + cumin + orange

parsnips + curry + yogurt

parsnips + garlic + onions + tomatoes

parsnips + ginger + orange juice/zest

parsnips + honey + rosemary

parsnips + honey + sesame oil/seeds + soy sauce

parsnips + leeks + lemon + parsley + potatoes

parsnips + lentils + root vegetables

parsnips + maple syrup + pecans

parsnips + maple syrup + thyme

parsnips + potatoes + pumpkin

parsnips + potatoes + shiitake mushrooms

“I’ve made parsnip jam by seasoning it with vanilla and rice wine vinegar.”

—MARK LEVY, THE POINT (SARANAC LAKE, NY)

“If I’m serving a smooth pureed parsnip soup, I’ll layer other parsnip flavors into the dish—for example, both cooked and raw parsnips, fried parsnip chips, and a confited parsnip ‘butter.’ I’ll keep working to think of new ways to get more parsnip flavor into the dish one more time—like taking the parsnip oil from confited parsnips and reemulsifying it back into the soup. All together, the flavor becomes so much more impactful.”

—AARON WOO, NATURAL SELECTION (PORTLAND, OR)

Dishes

Potato Parsnip Croquette, Okanagan Apple, House-Smoked Aged Cheddar, Pale Ale Sauce

—The Acorn (Vancouver)

Confit Parsnip with Savoy Cabbage, Sautéed King Oyster Mushroom, Caramelized Onion

—DANIEL (New York City)

Parsnip Soup with Coconut, Lime, and Mint

—Jean-Georges (New York City)

Charred Parsnips with Garlic, Spanish Almonds, Smoked Tofu, Thyme, and Lemon

—Plum Bistro (Seattle)

 

Dishes

Baked Alaska: Coconut Ice Cream and Passion Fruit Caramel

—Oleana (Cambridge, MA)

Passion Fruit Tart, Shortbread Crust, Cascabel Coconut Caramel

—True Bistro (Somerville, MA)

 

image PASTA—WHOLE-GRAIN, IN GENERAL

What it is: whole-grain product (refined)

Nutritional profile: 81% carbs / 15% protein / 4% fats

Calories: 175 per 1-cup serving (whole-wheat spaghetti, cooked)

Protein: 7 grams

Tips: There are more whole-grain varieties than ever, including brown rice, buckwheat, corn, oat, quinoa, rice, spelt, whole-wheat, etc. Experiment with various shapes, e.g., penne, rotini, shells, etc.

Possible substitutes: spiralized vegetables (e.g., zucchini) instead of linguini, spaghetti, etc.; sliced vegetables (e.g., eggplant, summer squash, sweet potato) instead of lasagna noodles

“There are entire regions of Italy that make pasta without eggs. Gnocchi is made without eggs in Liguria [so it’s naturally vegan]. I don’t use eggs in my ravioli dough—I use tapioca flour. I sometimes stuff ravioli with thick cashew cream, or kale, or a vegetable puree. I’ve served English pea ravioli with morels, mint, lemon zest, and sweated shallots.”

—AARON ADAMS, PORTOBELLO (PORTLAND, OR)

Pastas are a good way to get people to try a vegan dish in a vegan restaurant. Pizzas, too. They’re a friendly entry point that can help to pull people in, and when they’re served with ingredients like heirloom tomatoes or pestos, they’re not intimidating.”

—MAKINI HOWELL, PLUM BISTRO (SEATTLE)

Dishes

Spaghetti and Wheatballs, with Truffle-Tomato Sauce, Roasted Garlic, Sautéed Spinach, and Cashew Parmesan (pictured above)

—Candle Café West (New York City)

Butternut Squash Ravioli with Sweet Onion Puree and Smoked Farmers Cheese, Cranberry, Pecan, Cinnamon, and Kale

—The Fearrington House (Fearrington Village, NC)

Fava Bean Agnolotti with Ramps, Pecorino Froth, and Pistou

—Picholine (New York City)

image

Talking with Chef Chris Eddy of Winvian about Cooking for Vegetarians

One of my favorite dishes of 2013 was a simple vegetarian pappardelle dish I was served at Winvian, a unique Connecticut resort that houses eighteen individually designed cottages, including a helicopter and a treehouse. It featured a green sauce, along with sautéed cauliflower, mushrooms, and onions, and a very light dusting of grated cheese on top. The creamy sauce turned out to be a steamed broccoli puree made in a Vitamix with a bit of ice (“to cool the broccoli as quickly as possible,” according to chef Chris Eddy), some clear vegetable stock (“so as not to interfere with the beautiful green color”), a hint of heat in the form of either cayenne or chili pepper flakes (“always—it’s a ‘calling card’ that leaves an impression even after you’ve finished eating”), and just a touch of brown butter (“to add an amazing dimension to the sauce”). It’s based on a “ridiculously simple” technique Eddy learned while working with Chef Alain Ducasse and, I can attest, it’s ridiculously delicious.

Eddy says the technique works just as well with other vegetables—whether cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, celery root, or parsnips—and if added richness is desired, one could substitute cream for some of the clear vegetable stock (“although its whiteness fades the bright colors”), though the dish is creamy and rich even without added cream.

While Eddy characterizes Winvian’s customers as about 35 to 40 percent pescetarian, he and chef de cuisine Patrick Espinoza and their kitchen team spent a month eating vegetarian during the summer of 2013, just for the experience of putting themselves into the shoes of the significant portion of Winvian’s clientele (“about 7 or 8 percent of our customers”) who eat vegetarian. Why? “Number one, we love vegetables,” Eddy admits. But out of compassion for Winvian’s vegetarian customers, “We wanted to ‘feel their pain.’ We came to understand their frustration [at other restaurants] of only being offered the same dishes again and again—whether eggplant Parmesan, or risotto, or a salad—when they went out to dine.” In addition to prompting Eddy and his team to come up with an ever-changing array of dishes like the incredible pappardelle I fell in love with, their month-long vegetarian experiment had an added bonus: a number of Eddy’s cooks discovered that they felt healthier and sometimes less irritable.

“Now, we like to go all out for our vegetarian guests, and give them something special,” says Eddy. Mission accomplished.